Lift and Tire Central (pics)... Post 'em Up!

Has anyone ran both sets of tires? How much more cutting do you have to do for the 35s?

I'm considering 285/75s, 315/70s, and 35x11.5. The only size i've really eliminated are 35x12.5s mainly due to the more weight they carry

I have a 3" lcon Lift with SPC UCAs and a full set of Metal Tech control arms and bumpstop extensions in the rear. The tires will be mounted on 17x8 Konig Compressors with -10 offset

I've done the BMC, in the process of doing the pinch welds, and am not afraid of trimming my fenders, moving the washer bottle, etc

My main question is whether I should just go for the 35 right out of the gate since the 285/75 takes a lot of the same work anyway
 
I probably owe this thread a post as I've gained a lot from T4R and this thread specifically.
New setup on an 07 V8 Sport with 265/65/17 Falken Wildpeaks

Bilstein 5100
Dobinson C59-505 Rear Coils (supposedly 1.25-1.5" lift)
Dobinson C59-314 Front V8 Coils (supposedly 2.5" lift)
My shop accidentally notched up the Bilstein's from 0" to the 2nd notch so think 1.5"?

Previously had Bilstein 5100 all around w/ stock coils and had front 5100's notched at 3rd notch (think 2.5"?) which was a nice leveling job (I'm a fan of a touch of the 4runner rake, can't stand reverse rake) and think the shop overdid it with the 1.5" here on the newest setup.

Questions for the forum:
How much settling should I expect out of the front end?
and is a notched @ 1.5" Bilstein + 2.5" coils too much lift for current control arms and diff/axles? Noticed some shudder on acceleration at highway speeds that seemed to moderate after a few drives.
 

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Just finished my lift

ICON Stage 2 Lift w/ SPC UCA's, Metaltech rear bump extensions, Metaltech rear LCAs and UCAs, and removal of front sway bar

There's so much info on how to fit 35s on here. I've already done my BMC and am going to do some pinch weld hammering and more trimming, but i'm still getting gun shy and thinking of going with 285/75 Yokohama G0003 MTs. I think I just need to go 35s straight off.

What do you all think?

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Wheels and tires mounted today

Just have to do a little more trimming on the body mount, as the driver's tire is just kissing the corner. I'm sure there's more work to be done on the rear as well

35x11.5 R17 Falken RT01s on Konig Compressors with a -10 offset

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05 4Runner icon 2.5 with resis all around spc upper arms dobinson 677v rear springs with 17x8.5 advan rg-d2 wrapped with 315/70/17 Falken wildpeaks trai gear adapters and super bump stops front and rear with extensions and BMC
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Here is my current combo.....
RC 2.5 lift kit front
Dobinson 1.5 lift rear springs with RC shocks
TRD Style 17x8 matte black wheels
Toyo Open Country RT Trail 275/70R17
 

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OME 886/898 springs 1/4 front poly spacers, bilstein 5100's, rear sway connectors from 2nd gen, only rubs the front mud flaps which I'll take off soon. camber and toe aligned fine with stock uca, loss of caster, but at least tires won't wear unevenly.

If it's over 2.5" you need adjustable uca, to properly align the vehicle or uca that have the camber/caster build into them. I have seen way too many people come into my shop and say they don't need them until we show them why and the damage it is doing
 
Did mine over the weekend got everything done excepted the from brakes due to receiving the wrong Rotors. I HATE the whole 319mm and 338mm rotor thing. I was wondering are the OEM Springs worth anything?











338mm came on the sports only, don't know about the urbanrunner
 
Found some old photos from 2015 when I upgraded my 4Runner from a Daystar spacer lift to a Rancho RS9000XL QuickLift. It was a fun project for me one day after work at the Mercedes/Porsche shop I worked for at the time. Look how much thicker the Rancho's are than the OEM!!!!

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From what I have seen you will be warranting them out in a year or two
 
I honestly like the E's more on pavement. They keep the handling sharp despite being large tires. I had a friend that daily's an S2000 comment on how much he liked the turn-in when he drove it :becky: On the other hand, a friend of mine has C load Grabbers on his Forester and absolutely hates how sloppy they feel.



Thanks! Did the work myself on a friend's lift with air tools. Took us about 7 hours (30 mins of which was a wheel bearing - surprisingly the easiest part). I'd hit everything with PB blaster the day before and expect the endlinks to be a *****-and-a-half to remove. The top rear bolts on the front struts are also a pain. The strut tophat will also sometimes seize to the piece it goes into. That took us a solid hour of banging at to remove.

I think it could be done without a lift - would just be a bit more uncomfortable. I wouldn't try it without an impact though.

As for UCA's, I'm gonna replace them whenever my upper ball joints go bad. For the time being, they're alright. I do still need to get it aligned, though (shame on me).

I went with 2nd gen endlinks on the rear to get a bit more droop. I left the front stock though, as I'm worried about my CV's binding. A diff drop/new skid that accommodates it will be coming in the future.

Hit me up sometime if you wanna head offroad!

Yes u have an old post but guaranteed your upper ball joints are bad, the only way to test them is with a big ass pair of vise grips or pliers to compress to look to slack.
 
From what I have seen you will be warranting them out in a year or two

I ended up running them for about 2.5-3 years before switching to Bilstein 5100s. They rode okay, but the adjusters broke off pretty early on. I won't go back to Rancho's on my current build lol. When I did that lift, I was super super new to the offroad world and went to 4Wheel Parts and they said it was the only lift made for the 4th gen :crazy:
 
I have not lifted yet, but I thought this would be useful info. I got these Falken Wildpeak ATW/3's on my 2008 and contrary to a lot of what I read, I still had to make some modifications to fit. They are 265/70R17. They required trimming the front bumper and moving the liner forward. And behind the front tire required hammering and bending the pinch weld behind the mudflap. May not be required with the lift.
Your front suspension is completely collapsed! Upgrade already, I have worn out suspension but mine is not that bad, 174k on mine factory suspension no leaks 08 sport run same tore size no rubbing except fully locked n going over a bump
 
05 4Runner icon 2.5 with resis all around spc upper arms dobinson 677v rear springs with 17x8.5 advan rg-d2 wrapped with 315/70/17 Falken wildpeaks trai gear adapters and super bump stops front and rear with extensions and BMC
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That rear bumper job looks cleeaan [emoji122]

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My 4Runner already came with a decent lift when I bought it and it’s working for know. I am currently running Bilstein 5100 shocks with OME coils front (OME-886X) and rear (OME-895). My 4Runner also came equipped with a 1 inch body lift.

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So far, I have no complaints with this setup. The ride is decent and the front springs handle the bumper, winch, bigger battery and the skid plates just fine.

Only thing I added was a set of Total Chaos upper control arms that I transferred from my out going Tacoma and a set of rear sway bar end links off of a 2nd gen 4Runner, which are about an inch longer than the stock 4th gens.

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Here's my setup. Dobinson mid-travel kit with Perry Parts bump stops.
 

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I’m looking at doing the same wheel/tire package, just have a front level though. How’s the clearance in general? Concern is the 8.5” W +0 offset wheels will lead to rubbing issues.


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I’m looking at doing the same wheel/tire package, just have a front level though. How’s the clearance in general? Concern is the 8.5” W +0 offset wheels will lead to rubbing issues.


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You will definitely rub on the front part of the bumper. I trimmed a bit when i had my Spidertrax then even more when I swapped out to these wheels. But it is not much that you need to trim off and it isn't noticeable at all. Pushing the fender liner forward as much as possible helps the most. Very easy to do.
 

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