Lift Installed, Alignment help please.

[Snooperstyle]

Got it back today! Here is a preliminary pic:



Doing the pencil test, there is about half of a pencil diameter on both driver and passenger sides. EDIT: See Harper7's response below...I will get these adjusted and repost pics of how it should look...just don't want anybody to use this a reference...because it is not right yet.





Here are views from underneath. There appears to be a tear in the passenger side ball joint boot. How big of a deal is this?





I am rubbing slightly on the rear of the front fender wells when I turn and brake at the same time. Hoping alignment guy will fix that...it looks like I might be able to trim this piece too though...I think this piece is different on a Limited. Furthermore, when I get my sliders, I might be able to mess around with this piece...


More pics and thoughts in next post...hang on...

 

[Snooperstyle]

And here are some more pics:




I think the UCA's might be a tiny bit close to the tire on one side. Can I just have the alignment guy handle that? I have not gotten aligned yet.

Also, in my tech's defense, he told me today that he did indeed set it to the "D" setting before I even had time to ask (yesterday I heard him wrong when I thought he said "B"). The SPC logos are definitely facing the tires on both sides. I measured before and after to the tops of my fender wells, and I have a full 3" all around pretty much, but my rake is pretty noticeable, and I hope to adjust that soon. I did ask him to keep it "softer" for the wifey. Also, since I went up a tire size from 275 to 285, my new tires probably added another half inch or less. I think he did it right, did he not? He might see this, so I am sure he would appreciate constructive criticism.

Here are pics of the rake (bear in mind the truck was facing downhill and the camera has a 24mm lens which skews it and makes it look kind of awkward)...

 

[Snooperstyle]

OH, and I forgot to mention...rides like a dream already even before alignment. Night and day improvement over XREAS.

 

[harper7]

OH, and I forgot to mention...rides like a dream already even before alignment. Night and day improvement over XREAS.

Look at these pics to see how it's supposed to be. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/111733-icon-stage-1-installed-but-2.html#post1024966

See where I have the pencil for reference?
It is set way too far in.The alignment guy can adjust that though as long as they are set to zero(SPC logo facing out and forward a little). Just loosen that top nut and pull it out.

 

[Snooperstyle]

Thanks Gary. Just the info I needed...as long as the alignment guy can handle it, then I feel like I can get him to do it properly and then not have to take the truck in to two different places.

Yup I did look at those before lots of times, and I showed it to the tech, but it was hard for me/us to see the same angle as the pic I took. Once I get it right, I will take some really good pics and post them so people can see difference. I want to also make sure people don't read this and think it is right...so I am going to go edit my post to forewarn...

You rock!

 

[Snooperstyle]

This link is one I missed prior to taking my rig in...don't know how I missed this in another post by Qjake. :shrug:

http://stores.overlandwarehouse.com/images/LR-UCA-Tips.pdf

Now I can see clearly what is off on mine. Hope this might help others.

 

[Qjake]

Looks like you have a grasp on how to adjust your uppers. Again they should be almost all the way out.

Your rub on the rear looks to be minimal, positive caster will fix this. Make sure the align tech knows you want enough to clear the rear (~+5) with room to spare, it's much easier to trim the front a little if needed.

Last I didn't see the ripped boot addressed but this needs to be fixed ASAP!! Not sure where you bought your arms or if just the boot is serviceable. You may need to get the balljoint :shrug: Call Metal-Tech and ask about a replacement.

 

[Snooperstyle]

I am going to call metal tech first and ask them about the boot. I need to ask them something else anyways. Thanks QJake.

 

[Qjake]

I am going to call metal tech first and ask them about the boot. I need to ask them something else anyways. Thanks QJake.

Glad to hear! You don't want water/mud/sand/dirt etc getting inside that boot, that stuff will eat up your balljoint in short order :boink:

How did things go with the alignment? Did they give you any BS about all the caster you wanted? If it went well did it solve your rub in the rear?

Post up your align spec sheet when you get a chance, I like to save them for future reference

 

[Snooperstyle]

Not going in for alignment until Tuesday. Not driving it until then because camber is all effed up until those bolts on top of the UCAs get adjusted. Will report back after that.

 

[Snooperstyle]

...just to update...I never got a printout out from the alignment guy...he said they don't do that...unbelievable! Will get one next time somewhere else.

 

[coversion]

OK, so my lift is on and the initial alignment was a disaster. Rear well rub & pulls to the right. I've talked to a couple shops who act like I am trying to land on the moon with my instructions.

Current Alignment:
Caster: 4.5/4.0 (4.0/3.75 on UCA)
Camber: 0.0/0.0
Toe: 0.04/0.03

My instructions are (based on my research here):
Pull the wheels off & change the UCA setting to D/Neutral, so that the flat part of the star plate on the upper ball joint faces the tires, resulting in a starting caster of 2.0*. From then on, pretend you can't adjust the caster on the UCA.

I want to achieve an overall 4.0*+ of caster, the remaining 2.0*+ off the LCA alone. Outside of that, just align the darn thing, with a slight compensation for road crowning.
//end instructions//

I explained the above to a second shop this morning, who proceeded to immediately strap all the alignment gear up and quoted 4 hours of labor because of the anticipated caster adjustments to the UCA (ie, wheels off, adjust, wheels on, test). :ybrick:

So, I have an appointment tomorrow morning with a shop that seems to understand what I'm asking for. My question to the hive is - Do my instructions make sense (assuming I'm dealing with a competent shop)? Am I missing anything? Is there a better way to explain what I'm talking about?

**ETA, my first 2 attempts have also included the caster diagram supplied by SPC

Thanks in advance.

 

[eddiebx]

OK, so my lift is on and the initial alignment was a disaster. Rear well rub & pulls to the right. I've talked to a couple shops who act like I am trying to land on the moon with my instructions.

Current Alignment:
Caster: 4.5/4.0 (4.0/3.75 on UCA)
Camber: 0.0/0.0
Toe: 0.04/0.03

My instructions are (based on my research here):
Pull the wheels off & change the UCA setting to D/Neutral, so that the flat part of the star plate on the upper ball joint faces the tires, resulting in a starting caster of 2.0*. From then on, pretend you can't adjust the caster on the UCA.

I want to achieve an overall 4.0*+ of caster, the remaining 2.0*+ off the LCA alone. Outside of that, just align the darn thing, with a slight compensation for road crowning.
//end instructions//

I explained the above to a second shop this morning, who proceeded to immediately strap all the alignment gear up and quoted 4 hours of labor because of the anticipated caster adjustments to the UCA (ie, wheels off, adjust, wheels on, test). :ybrick:

So, I have an appointment tomorrow morning with a shop that seems to understand what I'm asking for. My question to the hive is - Do my instructions make sense (assuming I'm dealing with a competent shop)? Am I missing anything? Is there a better way to explain what I'm talking about?

**ETA, my first 2 attempts have also included the caster diagram supplied by SPC

Thanks in advance.

I am far from a suspension expert, but I think if you have your LRs set to +4 caster compensation you're going to get way worse rubbing at the rear of the wheel well than the stock arms. This is because the +4 setting pushes the top of the spindle backwards toward the rear of the well much more than stock.

What I would try is exactly what you said, set it to the "D" setting and give it a go to see if you can get it in spec the way you want it. Actually what I would do is set it myself at home and then go to the shop and tell them to just adjust the lower two cams. This way there is less for them to screw up if they don't know what they're doing.

If you do plan to DIY the LR UCA set u[, I think what you want is to set the camber adjustment to ~ the middle of the slotted hole and the caster washer to the "D" position. That's what I did and my alignment came out perfect.

ALSO, make sure to CRANK THAT BOLT DOWN to 150ft-lb of torque