Lift kit options

MityMax96

New member
Hello all,
What options or kits are out there for 4" front and 3" rear lift?

Currently I have about 3" up front and 2" in the rear, and I just replaced my UCAs with Dobinson's UCAs (should allow for 4" up front now?).

So looking to see what is out there, cause all I seem to be able to find is the 3"/2" lift/level stuff.

TIA
 
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Hello all,
What options or kits are out there for 4" front and 3" rear lift?

Currently I have about 3" up front and 2" in the rear, and I just replaced my UCAs with Dobinson's UCAs (should allow for 4" up front now?).

So looking to see what is out there, cause all I seem to be able to find is the 3"/2" lift/level stuff.

TIA

The best way to do it is to spend $5k on a long travel kit, which will give you the suspension geometry to lift 4".

What happens when you lift an independent front suspension vehicle is that the CV boots will start rubbing due to the higher angle, and they'll tear in short order slinging grease everywhere. That, and you want realistically at the very least 2" of downtravel from ride height which puts you in the max 3" lift range. Something like a 4" lift your ride quality will suffer. Basically your shocks are too short.

I would go up a size in tires before attempting a 4" lift. Or install a body lift.
 
Hello all,
What options or kits are out there for 4" front and 3" rear lift?

Currently I have about 3" up front and 2" in the rear, and I just replaced my UCAs with Dobinson's UCAs (should allow for 4" up front now?).

So looking to see what is out there, cause all I seem to be able to find is the 3"/2" lift/level stuff.

TIA

The reason everything is 3/2 is because when you go over 3" you start to get in the territory where you can have major CV issues. There also is very little down travel left at that point. I've seen some people on here saying they can get 3.5" without too much trouble, but the general consensus is that 4" is not for those that want to wheel their rig.

Why are you wanting to go to 4/3? What size tire are you trying to run?
 
The best way to do it is to spend $5k on a long travel kit, which will give you the suspension geometry to lift 4".

What happens when you lift an independent front suspension vehicle is that the CV boots will start rubbing due to the higher angle, and they'll tear in short order slinging grease everywhere. That, and you want realistically at the very least 2" of downtravel from ride height which puts you in the max 3" lift range. Something like a 4" lift your ride quality will suffer. Basically your shocks are too short.

I would go up a size in tires before attempting a 4" lift. Or install a body lift.

Ah I see...didn't think about that aspect of it.
Do you have a long travel kit in mind?
 
The reason everything is 3/2 is because when you go over 3" you start to get in the territory where you can have major CV issues. There also is very little down travel left at that point. I've seen some people on here saying they can get 3.5" without too much trouble, but the general consensus is that 4" is not for those that want to wheel their rig.

Why are you wanting to go to 4/3? What size tire are you trying to run?

Currently my tires are 33" I wanna say.

To do 4/3" I was wanting the extra height, as well as possibly doing 35" tires

Even now with what I have, I need to cut out some around the front wheels...I still get some rubbing when I am backing up w/ my wheels turned.
Oh and I totally forgot to put in the trim package for the driver side....so there is that slight lean. :ybrick:

Edit: 32"
KO2 265 75R16's
 
Last edited:
Ah I see...didn't think about that aspect of it.
Do you have a long travel kit in mind?

Total Chaos, Dirt King, Camburg all make good kits that are +3.5" wider than stock. The 'complete' kit involves $1500-$1800 shocks sold separately so factor that in too.

You don't need a suspension lift to fit larger tires. You need lots of caster in your alignment, a body lift helps, and trimming/removing mud flaps/body mount chop.
 
Total Chaos, Dirt King, Camburg all make good kits that are +3.5" wider than stock. The 'complete' kit involves $1500-$1800 shocks sold separately so factor that in too.

You don't need a suspension lift to fit larger tires. You need lots of caster in your alignment, a body lift helps, and trimming/removing mud flaps/body mount chop.

I am gonna have to get out there and do some cutting then.
Cause I thought once I put on the UCAs, that would help
But it didn't. Took it in and had them align it.....tires are still rubbing.
Rather frustrating to say the least, cause 32" tires aren't that big on a 4Runner
 
I am gonna have to get out there and do some cutting then.
Cause I thought once I put on the UCAs, that would help
But it didn't. Took it in and had them align it.....tires are still rubbing.
Rather frustrating to say the least, cause 32" tires aren't that big on a 4Runner

Next question, what wheel offset?
 
I don't remember the offset of the rims....but there isn't much
So not a negative offset, correct? More a positive offset.
Like the tires don't stick out from under the fenders

I have American Racing Baja rims, 16x8
I think offset is 0
 
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I love my long travel, but I absolutely wouldn't do it solely for the lift aspect.

Do you have a body lift? I am running a 1.5" and it helped me quite a bit when I wanted to run bigger tires (255/80/17, a skinny 33.5'").
 
No, no body lift.
I had an old toyota pickup truck that I did a body lift on
Don't want to do that again, I don't much like them.
 
No, no body lift.
I had an old toyota pickup truck that I did a body lift on
Don't want to do that again, I don't much like them.

I wouldn't totally rule them out. They are definitely the best way to add an extra 1" to fit tires. I am not aware of a single issue people have had with their body lift on a 4th gen 4Runner and tons of guys are running them.

I have personally been running mine over a decade and have never had a single problem. Over the years my 4Runner has definitely been beat on harder than 99% of them and although I have had motor mounts rip off the frame, control arms and shocks break, things bend and rattle off, etc... I have never once had a single issue with my minor body lift.
 
What about the Bilstein coils fro about a 2.5" rear lift?
I currently have Bilstein 5100's on the back
OME coil, w/ 2" spacer.
Would like to swap that out for a coil that gives about 2.5" lift

Looking at the
bilstein 36-281831
or
Icon 3" 52800_n1

On my 3rd Gen 4Runner, I had OME's, and they weren't bad coils...but I think only gave like a 2" lift.
 
What about the Bilstein coils fro about a 2.5" rear lift?
I currently have Bilstein 5100's on the back
OME coil, w/ 2" spacer.
Would like to swap that out for a coil that gives about 2.5" lift

Looking at the
bilstein 36-281831
or
Icon 3" 52800_n1

On my 3rd Gen 4Runner, I had OME's, and they weren't bad coils...but I think only gave like a 2" lift.

Do you know how much lift do the OME coils are supposed to give you on their own?

I don't know the Bilstein coils, so I will let others chime in there.

I am not sure if they still make them, but I previously ran All Pro 3.5" rear coils and they were great until I started adding a lot of weight (drawers, fridge, rear bumper, gas cans, etc...) at which point I had to go custom. I did find when I had a lot of lift with no weight though my ride really suffered.
 
Do you know how much lift do the OME coils are supposed to give you on their own?

I don't know the Bilstein coils, so I will let others chime in there.

I am not sure if they still make them, but I previously ran All Pro 3.5" rear coils and they were great until I started adding a lot of weight (drawers, fridge, rear bumper, gas cans, etc...) at which point I had to go custom. I did find when I had a lot of lift with no weight though my ride really suffered.

Sorry I mis-typed in my post
I currently have OEM springs (not Old Man Emu)
So stock springs on the back w/ a 2" spacer sitting above them.

What do you mean the ride suffered w/ that lift and no weight?
In what way?
 

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