Lift kits?

Camokid84

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So im not sure what route to take. Body lift or suspension. Intention: More ground clearance, fit bigger tires, a little more articulation. Option 1: Body lift, seems to be able to take care of all three things, not too expensive, but I hear crappy things about them. Option two: Suspension lift, a little more expensive, take care of all three intentions, but I am concerned about cv axle drive shaft and steering shaft angles and or mods. Any advice? Suggestions? Answers?


This is all on a 1994 4runner, 3.0
 
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So im not sure what route to take. Body lift or suspension. Intention: More ground clearance, fit bigger tires, a little more articulation. Option 1: Body lift, seems to be able to take care of all three things, not too expensive, but I hear crappy things about them. Option two: Suspension lift, a little more expensive, take care of all three intentions, but I am concerned about cv axle drive shaft and steering shaft angles and or mods. Any advice? Suggestions? Answers?


This is all on a 1994 4runner, 3.0
For what you want, the only option is a suspension lift.

The only thing a body lift will allow you to do is fit larger tires. Your articulation won't increase unless your tires are hitting the tops of the wheel wells when you flex, and the only areas that your ground clearance will increase in are your bumpers and fenders - you'll still have the frame to contend with.

If you're just looking for a little bit of lift, spacers are pretty cheap. They fit on top of your springs in the back and ball joints up front, so while they won't really give you any more articulation, you do gain some ground clearance and space for tires.
 
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Here is a picture of 31's on a 5 inch suspension lift before I put the 33's on.
 

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Alright so if I go with the suspension lift, 4 inches, do I need to worry about cv axle, drive line, or steering column angle or length?
 
YES AND NO.
The front is going to be a diff/suspension drop lift, angles stay mostly the same, minus the driveline angle, which is irrelevant for the most part.
Bad part about that... you still have IFS.
I wheeled on IFS (no lift) and budbuilt skid plates for a couple years.
I wheeled it pretty hard, mind you.
Every outing would pretty much do in an idler arm.
Alignment was different after every outing.
Now with the IFS lifts... you now have all the same stuff, with added leverage on the frame from the drop brackets.


In the rear of your 5 link 4runner.... your pinion angle is going to be affected by lift springs, as is your axle centerline, unless you change the control arms and lateral rod.
Not a lot, and many many many many people have done it, and driven the things and wheeled them, for years and years.
If you're not going to be super hard on it, you can get away with it.
Also remember.... bigger tires has a pretty severe impact on driveability and fuel economy, without a gear change to compensate.

If you think you MIGHT EVER want to do any really serious off roading or rock crawling, start looking into a solid axle swap.
Also look into rock rails, bumpers, winches, and other armor.
 
So im not sure what route to take. Body lift or suspension. Intention: More ground clearance, fit bigger tires, a little more articulation. Option 1: Body lift, seems to be able to take care of all three things, not too expensive, but I hear crappy things about them.

wrong and wrong. 1) a body lift will make some room for larger tires, but does not affect articulation or ground clearance 2) the "crappy" things you heard are BS.

Option two: Suspension lift, a little more expensive, take care of all three intentions,

a suspension lift will affect articulation, help fit taller tires, and improve ground clearance as it affects approach, departure, and break-over angles.
Only taller tires will improve all over clearance and where it counts, at the diffs.

just my .02
 
What size tires do you want? If you get less than 35's, you'll be fine with stock gearing. I know some people run 35's with stock as well, but it'll be a bit slow.
 
Ok well thanks for all the information. One last question, what gears should I look at putting in the rear end?

That depends on 2 things, what size tires and what trans (auto or manual)?
And a 3rd thing, if it's 4WD you have to regear the front and rear.

Fill in that info and I can better help answer your questions.
Otherwise it's a bunch of wild ass guesses.
 
That depends on 2 things, what size tires and what trans (auto or manual)?
And a 3rd thing, if it's 4WD you have to regear the front and rear.

Fill in that info and I can better help answer your questions.
Otherwise it's a bunch of wild ass guesses.

I will be running 33x11.5x15
Its a 5 speed manual trans
It will be a daily driver and used for wheelin, camping etc.
4WD

So what is the final consesus on the gearing? And where can I get them?
 
Based on what other people are running, you should be fine with stock gears. You don't even have to lift it for 33's, though you might have some mild rubbing on turns. Even a mild 2"-3" lift (FJ springs or OME kit) will clear 33's no problem.

I'm not sure I'd want 5.29's on a daily driver.
 
I would wait for the gears myself, particularly for the installation of a locker (or two).
I have 33x12.5s on the stock 4.10s and sure its slow at first, but thats fine with me. I will prob get 4.56 or 4.88 as long as my rig is DD, and i dont plan on going bigger than 35", ever.
i travelled 120 mi roundtrip on the interstate today and was doing a lot of passing :) its not gonna win a race from one stop light to another, but once you get up to speed, GOOD TO GO.
 
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