LiquiMoly "Ceratec" from Germany

I have used the Mos2 for the better part of seven years with no ill effects. The color of the oil becomes a little grey as jgue467 pointed out. Th oil also seems to thin out.

My uncle's neighbor swore by Slick 50 treatment back in the late 80s up through the 90s, Teflon or no Teflon. It lined the shelves of Western Auto back in the day.


The original slick 50 when it first came out and had a MIL-SPEC number printed on the bottle worked. I put it in my 88 Daytona and my brother put it in his Omni GLH. The GLH was the proof. He use to blow about 3psi of boost to go down the PA turnpike to Philadelphia navy yards. After the slick 50 no boost until he got on it. It would smoke any mustang and IROC Z and Montecarlo SS of the day., and new Corvettes up to 100mph.

A couple years later it (slick 50) was junk.

Ah the memory's.......
 
In addition, even though I don't understand it, the truck seems to shifting better and more efficiently (I don't understand how that could happen as I did nothing to the transmission....any help here?)

This is no criticism at all - glass houses and all that - but the quote should be a clue as to what's going on.

To quote Richard Feynman, "The first principle is that you must not fool yourself – and you are the easiest person to fool".

Good advice for scientists and anyone else when something important is at stake. But for the small stuff in life like this, carry on. The economy would probably grind to a halt if too many people applied the above principle.
 
I guess I'm going to be that guy - are BMW/Audi/Mercedes/Volkswagen using this stuff from the factory? And if not, why not?

Don't think a bmr does (at least not my gf's '06 330ci) and I'll be neither does audi/mb or vw - i had porsche while back, it said nothing; our own toyo manual also says to add nothing to the motor oil & my daughters prius manual says the same thing, read thru the bmr manual, no reference to it anywhere.

Her son is a certified bmw tech (high level), he says don't add that crxp even to your lawnmower - but he also doesn't like changing trans fluid which i don't agree with). I'm not saying the stuff is bad (or good), i think it has some of the same additives some motor oils come with, just lots more. I still think we're better off spending that money on essentially carbon cleaners, whether that be seafoam or startron (in oil & fuel respectively) and full synthetic motor oils. But that's me. If someone has positive results let us know, i just didn't have any results so am saving that $ for other stuff. :cheers:
 
BD should send a sample of the oil with the Ceratec in it to Blackstone to see if truly it is aiding or hurting the oil being used. Spring for a TBN (total base number of additives left) for the report.
 
So, I gave Ceratec a shot and threw in a bottle during my last oil change. I researched this quite a bit on this site and other forums and sites like bobistheoilguy.

I've had this 4runner for a year now, and would say that I average about 17.5mpg, and I measure my gas mileage on every fill up. I have been trying to figure out why my gas mileage is so poor as compared to the last 4runner I had that was virtually identical that averaged 19-21 mpg. I think that the only thing left for me to do is switch out the O2 sensors as I've pretty much done every other trick that I could find.

Since I've added Ceratec, for the last 3 tanks I've averaged 18.5 mpg, and I haven't been driving differently or babying it or anything. So, from what I've seen, so far, it seems to have helped a little bit with fuel economy.

Also, I noticed that, even though my engine wasn't running rough or anything to begin with, it definitely was smoother and quieter after adding Ceratec.

FWIW, in my opinion/experience, it works well.
 
LiquiMoly "Ceratec" from Germany

I know everyone is skeptical (and rightly so) of "engine treatments." I have been skeptical as well but with my rig pushing 250K, I am becoming more open to trying some things out.



I did a TON of research on a product called "Ceratec" by a company in Germany by the name of LiquiMoly. When I was stationed in Germany, I had German friends and they were familiar with the products from this company. Apparently they swear by in their BMW's and Mercedes'.



Anyways, it is a ceramic type additive that allegedly improves your engine and performance through a "bonding" of micron sized ceramic material. It anneals to the metal parts in the engine and improves mileage and performance.



NAPA is the only place that sells this stuff locally. SO, I tried it.



It looks like buttermilk and one can treats up to 5 quarts. Even though our 5VZ FE engines have 5.5 quarts, I did it anyways. I can tell a significant difference in the hum of the engine and the gas mileage. I have much smoother acceleration and idle. The mileage keeps improving (I only have 300 miles on the product as of now....) Even with gas prices dropping like rock, I wanted this extra ounce of protection. I am glad I did it. I will see what the oil looks like after my next change (I added this with new Mobil 1) and post again.



For all of you who think I am nuts, I will partially agree. I am VERY SKEPTICAL about dumping things in my engine but I researched and reviewed this stuff for weeks. I even called friends in Germany who were very familiar with the product. Moreover, this stuff has been tested and cleared by a variety of REAL LABS and TESTING AGENCIES in Germany. Like the "sham wow" commercial says "Made in Germany so you know it is good..." LOL


Not related to cars, but this stuff called moly came out in the long range shooting circles about 10 years ago, the stuff worked grate! Cutting groups in half, however the downside started to show, the stuff was extremely hydroscopic, and to make matters worse it would not let the barrels breath and it could not be removed.

So in the end what you got was a drop in groups, but a pitted barrel that only had a few years for a life span. This being a oil filled environment it might not happen but just giving you me experience with it.
 
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So, I gave Ceratec a shot and threw in a bottle during my last oil change. I researched this quite a bit on this site and other forums and sites like bobistheoilguy.

I've had this 4runner for a year now, and would say that I average about 17.5mpg, and I measure my gas mileage on every fill up. I have been trying to figure out why my gas mileage is so poor as compared to the last 4runner I had that was virtually identical that averaged 19-21 mpg. I think that the only thing left for me to do is switch out the O2 sensors as I've pretty much done every other trick that I could find.

Since I've added Ceratec, for the last 3 tanks I've averaged 18.5 mpg, and I haven't been driving differently or babying it or anything. So, from what I've seen, so far, it seems to have helped a little bit with fuel economy.

Also, I noticed that, even though my engine wasn't running rough or anything to begin with, it definitely was smoother and quieter after adding Ceratec.

FWIW, in my opinion/experience, it works well.



I am glad someone else "took the plunge" and tried this product. I am also glad to post my experience now that it has been awhile. I too have experienced better gas mileage. I am getting between 18 and 18.5 in city driving and the best highway mileage (3 hour trip to Atlanta) gave me 21.62 miles per gallon. My rig just turned 250K today and with the original motor and transmission, I am pretty stoked. I have also noticed a smoother running and idling engine. So, I think the spend on this Ceratec stuff was worth it. It doesn;t cure world hunger or cancer but it does make a noticeable improvement - at least in my case it did.
 
I also went ahead and bought some of this stuff today at my local NAPA. After a bit of research on BITOG it seemed to be pretty decent stuff for older engines as long as they aren't leaking. I've only driven about 10 miles with it so far but hopefully I'll notice enough differences soon to offset the cost. Anything to help gas mileage living in the city.. :yield:
 
Hmm. Not really sure why anyone would dump some unknown crap into their crankcase on an engine that has survived beyond 100,000 miles. Simply, if you keep the oil clean with a good filter and use synthetic oil, the engine will continue to run forever(close to it). If it was prematurely wearing out, it would have failed by now. Just my most humble opinion.

Now on topic, the rumors against using additives (no less valid than the rumors in favor of additives) say that some additives will block small passages in the engine or that the substance that bonds to the engine parts makes it so slick the motor oil cannot stick to the surfaces and opens the metal up to corrosion. In either case Its probably just snake oil.

personal experience: Once I used slick 50 in a 71 corvette which I had just rebuilt the engine. I was invited to drive in the 4th of July parade. My coolant temp gauge wasnt reading right so I didnt know what had happened. At the end of the parade, driving roughly 40 minutes at idle speed I parked the car and checked the coolant level. Not a drop of coolant was in the radiator. I had a leak under the car. My engine ran in 90* heat without coolant for almost an hour. It didn't seize nor suffer any ill effects. I can only attribute that to the slick 50 that was still in the oil.

I can only say, that EVERY time oyu dump a bottle of oil into your crankcase, it contains an unknown substance, UNLESS you test each and every bottle prior to adding it. I work at a Nuke plant and talk about handling oils to a spec number, lot number, batch number and then check it prior to bringing it on site and adding it to some piece of equipment, we are the experts.

On the other hand, I have been using an additive that many may call a placebo, but I can say it is worth my time and money to use. I have opend a couple of my engines up after a lot of miles and the wear is much less than the ones that are opened up that was not using the additive. I use Energy Release (ER) and it works really well for reducing friction. So much so, a couple of farm and industrial companies use it for their manufacturing lubricants to make their taps and dies last longer.
 
Not related to cars, but this stuff called moly came out in the long range shooting circles about 10 years ago, the stuff worked grate! Cutting groups in half, however the downside started to show, the stuff was extremely hydroscopic, and to make matters worse it would not let the barrels breath and it could not be removed.

So in the end what you got was a drop in groups, but a pitted barrel that only had a few years for a life span. This being a oil filled environment it might not happen but just giving you me experience with it.

Its funny you mention this. Way back when slick 50 and the other products hit the market, they did what they claimed but all too well. What the mechanics found was the products were too slick and the motor oil which should leave a coat of oil on internal parts, could not stick to the metal and left it open to moisture and of course corrosion. Just like the pitted barrels. And for an engine in particular, it produces plenty of condensation from combustion. That is why its neccessary to change oil more frequently if you only drive short distances or run your engine for 5-10 minutes during the winter to keep the engine oiled and battery charged.
 
Yeah, I just read some of the BITOG stuff about it, and a couple guys actually gave some good links to real information. it looks like ceratec is a Boron Nitride additive, that may or may not contain moly (saw some conflicting reports of that). IMO, i don't want to add a ceramic to my engine oil.

Moly on the other hand has been around in automotive and machine circles since before WW2 and is a well known and common lubricant. If you want more info, read my thread on drive shaft lubing (it's in the master thread...). Moly is very commonly used in sealed bearings, and the science o what it does if very well known. It bonds to the metal and fills in the asperities, creating a slip layer to reduce friction. This layer does NOT build up to the point that it jams bearings, despite some on the internet claiming it does. It is excellent for high speed and high temp applications and has a well-proven track record. That said, it probably isn't helpful in all cases. Moly engine oil has been around for a long time too.

Here is the best link I found from BITOG, interesting paper. Basically says that BN doesn't reduce friction, but Moly does. I don't think that Moly causes oil to not wet to the metal and thus causes corrosion. IN fact the benefit of moly in sealed earings is that it continues to lubricate after the grease has seeped out. It seems to me that if it caused corrosion after the grease seeps out, then it would negatively affect the life of the bearing, not prolong it.

http://www.transportation.anl.gov/pdfs/MM/857.PDF


Hmm. Not really sure why anyone would dump some unknown crap into their crankcase on an engine that has survived beyond 100,000 miles. Simply, if you keep the oil clean with a good filter and use synthetic oil, the engine will continue to run forever(close to it). If it was prematurely wearing out, it would have failed by now. Just my most humble opinion.

Now on topic, the rumors against using additives (no less valid than the rumors in favor of additives) say that some additives will block small passages in the engine or that the substance that bonds to the engine parts makes it so slick the motor oil cannot stick to the surfaces and opens the metal up to corrosion. In either case Its probably just snake oil.

personal experience: Once I used slick 50 in a 71 corvette which I had just rebuilt the engine. I was invited to drive in the 4th of July parade. My coolant temp gauge wasnt reading right so I didnt know what had happened. At the end of the parade, driving roughly 40 minutes at idle speed I parked the car and checked the coolant level. Not a drop of coolant was in the radiator. I had a leak under the car. My engine ran in 90* heat without coolant for almost an hour. It didn't seize nor suffer any ill effects. I can only attribute that to the slick 50 that was still in the oil.

Good principle, don't dump unknown crap into you crankcase. Especially if you are still under warranty (none of us are obviously...) as adding anything, even if it is good, could void your warranty.

I don't buy the blocking small passages thing for additives like moly. The scales are so different between particle size and passage size. Now things like stopleak, yes, that will plug passages... And moly is pretty well understood in terms of what kind of "build-up" you get on the metal, and it is pretty much just beneficial. It's been researched to death over the years because it is so extensively used in the bearing world.

I don't know much about slick50, but I have been surprised at how long engines can last without coolant. I had a friend that drove over 1000 miles after her coolant leaked out. I think it did destroy the engine, but the thing still drove; it was just un-repairable. There is also an old story about some moly guys running a car around a track with no engine oil, but having treated it extensively with moly and it running a pretty ridiculous # of laps. It was purely anecdotal, but kind of a fun read. I lost the link to the story and haven't been able to find it again.

Anyway, y'all can feel free to risk it with the ceratec stuff. I guess it probably won't ruin your engine, but don't ignore the placebo effect. If you are getting smoother shifting by using engine oil additive, then you are a posterboy for the placebo effect.
 
I wouldn't put anything in the engine that said anything close to "Coats and sticks to engine parts to provide <blah blah blah>" :/

Looking on line, independent testing seems to always show that they do nothing measurable at all to prevent wear or improve mileage or anything else they claim. Secondly that mostly they just clog your oil filter faster and in some cases actually change the viscosity of your oil which can be dangerous for the engine in extreme hot or cold conditions.

Plus, with competition so high, all motor oils these days already have a plethora of viscosity enhancers and detergents and whatnot already in them. Adding MORE doesn't really do anything except possibly dilute what you already have (I.e. adding a viscosity enhancer in place of a half quart of oil will dilute the overall detergent content)

It's nice to think that there is a bottle of magic out there, but if it really did work and was reliable with no ill effects, it would be (and is) in any bottle of quality motor oil already.

On a personal note, in the 70s, a friend put a bottle of Slick 50 in his car with an oil change and a week later the engine ceased, something that seems to be a not too uncommon story. So that also "colors" my thinking on the subject :)
 
If you have a dying engine and put a can of mechanic fix and engine still dies it's not always the can that caused the problem.

My brother and I both used Slick 50 in the late 80's when it still had a Mill-Spec number on the back and I got great results. 2-3 more mpg for about 40,000 miles.(2years of being in the Navy and driving home a lot). My brothers turbo Omni GLH went from blowing 3-5psi of boost driving down the PA turnpike to the Philadelphia navy base to no boost at all and around the same mpg improvement.
 
Well it's been around 4 tanks of gas and I must say I went from a steady 42mpg on the Satty driving to and from work to 44-46mpg. It was never below 44mpg since. And last tank was 45.8mpg. Oil at 1400 miles is still honey color with a milkyness to it. I'm very happy. And hope this lasts through a few oil changes. Not just this oil change interval.
 
What color was your oil when u drained it for an oil change? Was it dark brown and did the oil swirl with some lighter substance in it??? Or did the oil look like you never added it in the first place?
 
I used it for the previous two oil changes (right through fall & winter), does quiet the engine enough for me to notice. Came out dark brown but was a hint milky for 90% of the time. I would use it again during winter. As far as gas mileage, I have no idea....

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

EDIT: Any blow-by (I have a Moroso catch can) had a tad of more milkiness than normal and the engine seemed to rev with less effort.
 
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I am a little concern because after adding the Ceratec and driving for 5-6k miles the oil that was draining out was sorta milky with a slight shine like glitter in it? Did your oil drain look like this? I have never seen any of my oil changes look like this on any and all cars that I have owned. It only seemed to happen after adding the Ceratec and later changing the oil.

I have the used oil in a small container and noticed that the foreign substance settles to the bottom. I then inserted a screwdriver and stirred the oil and noticed a lighter colored/swirl starting to appear, then the lighter colored matter then settled to the bottom again? The lighter color matter looked sorta like the Ceratec liquid???

Has this happened to you?

Have you changed the oil a couple of times since adding the Ceratec and if so, what color was the oil drained? Did it return back to normal???

How is your engine running now? Any problems?
 
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