Locked Up's 4Runner

locked up

Member
Build highlights as of 3/31/2025
2003
Part Time 4WD (Manual T-case swap)
V8
Limited
LB42 Leather
220,000 miles
Dobinsons 1-3.5" IMS Coilovers (+100lbs/black)
Dobinsons C59-325 coils (black)
Dobinsons IMS59-50701 Shocks
1/2" Body Lift
Extended brake lines
265/70 R17 Kenda Klever ATs
Toyota 17" Wheels
5th Gen Rear Axle locked
5th Gen Front Brakes
Lost Trails Hidden Winch Bumper
8K Vevor winch

Current Pic:
417964d1778701252-locked-ups-4runner-img_9333-jpg


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I picked this up a couple of days ago (December '23) and it's currently in the shop getting a good once over...

Motor has plenty of power and it drives nice and straight.
Dealer said "The PO said they did timing belt and water pump" ... but no sticker so I will redo it all.

Known issues are the 4wd actuator, bad fan clutch & a cracked coil pack.
There is also a small section of the frame we need to address for rust but it's nothing like the horror stories I have seen on youtube.
Shop seems to think they can easily cut out the bad spots and plate them.
Hopefully they don't find much more so I can get this on the road and get rid of my Jeep. ;)


Plans:
Fix EVERYTHING noted above.

The front seems a little stiff so may investigate swapping something else in.

There are dents and dings that I am going to try to correct or at least minimize.

Might repaint/recolor it as well.... the black is sexy and all but it's hawt here in TX.
If I don't do a color change I might just do a white roof to reflect that sun!

If I keep the black I may look for some of the newer Limited wheels.
I generally like black wheels on white/silver vehicles and shiny metal on black/dark blue.

I will need to refurbish headlights so I may crack them open and convert to something brighter.

Grill needs some love. Emblems were plasti-dipped. Not sure if I like it.

On the inside I also want to replace the dash so will probably do a coverlay unless I find a nice one at the 'yard.

I am also going to look at replacement carpet, refurbishing the leather and some new floor mats.

Audio is the JBL system but I want something more modern.
I will investigate swapping that out for something touch screen assuming I can keep the steering wheel controls.

May remove the running boards and relocate the lights in them to under the body. We will see if they are necessary for the wife. lol


UPDATE:
Truck is done with the initial inspection.
Will have the shop mess with the AC Condenser because I don't have those tools.

Got a few things to sort out myself once I get it back and up first on my DIY list is a wheel bearing.

Truck has a slight pull to one side under heavy braking and the passenger side bearing is to blame.

I've changed out plenty of unit bearings in my Jeep XJ/YJ/TJ days so I feel like this is a project I an handle.

I came across this wheel bearing and ordered it:
Amazon.com
Arrives on the 9th supposedly.


As much as I am a fan of OEM parts, the prices on them are bonkers ... about $500 for both the bearing and hub then I'd need to press together!

I'm opting for a complete unit because I want nothing to do with what I say Eric the car guy go though!
2005 Toyota 4Runner Front Axle, Wheel Bearing, & Hub Replacement -EricTheCarGuy - YouTube

I did see some options on rock auto for just the bearing but this saves me a trip to get things pressed out/in and I should be able to do it all in one swoop.

This one has some mixed reviews so I called Detroit Axle directly and they confirmed that price is correct and the store is actually theirs and not a knock off (although the part may come from China). I also suspect that (based on the photos) the people that had failures have 2wd trucks and didn't realize the stub axle is required to hold it all together on a 4wd unit. That is a lesson I learned the hard way in one of my Cherokees as a young lad when we pulled a shaft to limp it home after some front end problems.

----------------------------------------
All information here is cross posted over here:
Locked Up's 4Runner | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]
Just in case ;)
 

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Going to use this post as my maintenance log.

1/8/24
215,473 Miles
OEM AC Condenser - Land Cruiser Specialists

1/13/24
215,473
OEM B2 S1 O2 Sensor - (8946560150) Tom Wood Toyota
OEM Coil Pack - (90919-02230) Tom Wood Toyota

1/30/24
215,473
Detroit Pass front Wheel Bearing - Amazon
Denso Coil Packs - (6731303) Rock Auto x7

2/7/24
215,495
OEM Radiator Shroud - (16711-50170) Joe Joe Toyota Parts
OEM Fan Clutch - (1621050090) Tom Wood Toyota
OEM Fuel Tube Clamp - (7785-35630) Joe Joe Toyota Parts
OEM Fuel Tube Clamp - (7785-35640) Joe Joe Toyota Parts


2/12/24
215,501
New Spare tire changing tools
Amazon

3/2/24
215,511
Cleaned Sun Roof Drains
OEM Relay Block Cover - (82663-35090) Toyota Parts Deal
OEM B1 S1 O2 Sensor - (8946560150) Tom Wood Toyota
OEM PCV Valve - (12204-50030) Toyota Parts Deal
OEM Gas Cap - (77300-47010) Toyota Parts Deal
OEM PCV Hose - (12261-50060) Toyota Parts Deal
OEM PCV Hose - (12261-50050) Toyota Parts Deal

3/11/24
215,520
OEM Fuel Resistor - (23080-50130) Toyota Parts Deal
OEM MAF Sensor - (22204-75020) Toyota Parts Deal
OEM Vapor Hose - (23829-50070) Toyota Parts Deal
OEM Vapor Hose - (23820-50140) Toyota Parts Deal
OEM Thermistor - (88790-22131) Toyota Parts Deal
Battery Duralast Gold 27F-DLG - AutoZone

3/21/24
215,532
Bearden Automotive. They use OE parts and for this they used the ASIN kit.
B2 S1 O2 Sensor Ground fix
Timing Belt Idler
Cam Seal x2
Crank Seal
Timing belt
Water Pump
Idler lower Timing
Coolant
FIPG Sealer
Thermostat Gasket
O-Ring Bypass
Inlet O-ring
Thermostat
Tension Adjuster Timing
P/S Hose 3/8
P/S Feed Hose
Power Steering Fluid
Oil Pickup Gasket
Oil Pumo/RM Housing O-Ring
Oil Pump
Tensioner Accessory Belt
Harmonic balancer
Alternator
Cooling Bracket Assembly

3/27/24
215,600
Passed Inspection

4/8/24
215,674
Lubed front & rear driveshafts (slips & u-joints)

5/13/24
215,690
Krawltex Motorsports
Installed SafeTcap Frame Repairs 200,201 & 202 on both sides

5/22/24
215706
Bearden Automotive.
New Radiator & Cap

7/27/24
216,116
OEM Fuel Cap - Toyota Parts Deal


8/8/24
216,253
OEM Purge Valve - Amayama


8/9/2024
216,253
Powerstop Front Pads & Rotors - Amazon
Powerstop Rear Pads & Rotors - Amazon
VastAuto Hub Grease Caps - Amazon
Detroit Driver Front Wheel Bearing - Amazon
Geometry Correction UCAs - SuperPro
LCA Kit - SuperPro
Sway bar Drop - Amazon
Dobinsons 1-3.5" IMS Coilovers (+100lbs/black) - Exit Offroad
Dobinsons C59-675V Variable Long travel coils (black) - Exit Offroad
Dobinsons IMS59-50701 Shocks - Exit Offroad
Extended Stainless Kevlar Teflon (maybe some Unobtanium too) Brake lines Front & Rear (smoked black) - YotaMafia
OEM 5th Gen CV Axles (43430-60082) - Joe Joe
OEM Differential Mounts lower x2 - Partsourq
OEM Differential Mounts upper x2 - Partsourq
OEM Support assy front diff (5238060012) - Partsourq
OEM Support assy front diff (5238060021) - Partsourq
Alignment and install of above parts - Krawltex Motorsports

12/05/24
216,565
Dobinsons C59-325 Rear Coils - Exit Offroad
Install rear coils & front coil over adjustment - Round2 Offroad
Alignment - Precision Tune Auto Care

2/28/25
216,695
Fixed rear sunroof drain
Manual T-case swapped
Rear main seal
OEM Oil Seal (9031138083) - Amayama
OEM Transmission Mount (1237150150) - Amayama
Tom Woods Drive Shaft - url=https://4xshaft.com]Tom Woods[/url]
--Front 31 7/8" Flange to Flange
--Rear 47 1/4" Flange to Flange
1/2" Body Lift - Etsy
OEM Body mount bushings & hardware:
Bolt Body Mounting (5221735180) - Amayama
Bolt body Mounting (5221735191) - Amayama
Bush(9044018011) - Amayama
Holder Cab Mount Cushion No 1(9044031002) - Amayama
CUSHION SUB-ASSY, CAB MOUNTING, NO.1 LOWER (5220235090) - Amayama
CUSHION SUB-ASSY, CAB MOUNTING, NO.2 LOWER (5220435120) - Amayama
CUSHION SUB-ASSY, CAB MOUNTING, NO.3 LOWER (5220635040) - Amayama
CUSHION SUB-ASSY, CAB MOUNTING, NO.4 LOWER (5220835050) - Amayama
STOPPER, CAB MOUNTING CUSHION (9020112078) - Amayama
NUT(FOR REAR SPRING U BOLT) (9418801201) - Amayama
CUSHIION SUB-ASSY, CAB MOUNTING, NO.1 UPPER (5220135100) - Partsourq
CUSHION SUB-ASSY, CAB MOUNTING, NO.2 (5220335210) - Partsourq
CUSHIION SUB-ASSY, CAB MOUNTING, NO.3 UPPER (5220535160) - Partsourq
CUSHION SUB-ASSY, CAB MOUNTING, NO.4 UPPER (5220735050) - Partsourq
Install of above parts by - Krawltex Motorsports


3/18/25
Passed Annual Inspection

3/19/25
OEM Radiator Cover (53292-35010) - Ebay
Wheel Well engine bay Covers - Ebay

3/21/25
Seat Skins - Amazon
Coverlay Dash Cover - Coverlay
Cleanup on aisle 3

3/22/25
USB Port - Amazon

3/23/25
Subwoofer replacement - Amazon
More cleaning

3/24/25
216,730
Shift boot - Amazon
Black Center caps - Amazon

3/29/25
Removed Rear Shelf
 
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The bearing topic has been talked about many times and I think you commented on one thread with good info recently. A couple years ago you could get a hub assembly with a quality Japanese bearing from Rock Auto, you could see it stamped on the bearing in the pictures. Those seem to no longer be available. Personally, I'd prefer a quality bearing and either have it pressed on or do it myself with my cheapo HF press. Just no telling how long a China bearing will last. If you must go that route then maybe buy somewhere local with a lifetime guarantee so you can easily claim it.

As far as that ETCG video, that's pretty nuts for a supposed pro. I pressed mine out which made it separate from the race then cut the race with a dremel and slid it off the hub. Stuck the parts in the freezer which made pressing the new bearing onto the old hub pretty easy.
 
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The lift is Bilsteins up front (on the most lift setting) and a spacer in the rear.

Plans:
Fix EVERYTHING noted above.

The front seems a little stiff so may investigate swapping something else in.

Might repaint/recolor it as well.... the black is sexy and all but it's hawt here in TX.
If I don't do a color change I might just do a white roof to reflect that sun!

I will need to refurbish headlights so I may crack them open and convert to something brighter.

Audio is the JBL system but I want something more modern.
I will investigate swapping that out for something touch screen assuming I can keep the steering wheel controls.

The stiff ride is likely the bilsteins operating with 2" of their travel pre-compressed. Assuming they're not blown, dropping those to the lowest setting and installing springs meant for your desired ride height should be much better.

I've got 5100s with Dobinsons springs for my 1.5-2" lift and no complaints from me or the wife.

Get a ceramic tint on at least the windshield but preferably all windows. That'll do a ton to help cut the heat. It's enough to spare me a burnt rear on dark leather seats all summer long and I'm in Central TX too. AC even feels more effective.

Go to Crutchfield.com, punch in your options and they'll list out all the gear you need to replace the head unit and keep the steering wheel controls + factory sub working. I paid the extra for the harness service and made the whole install basically plug and play.

For headlights, check out the thread below for bulbs and stay away from TEQ. The chinese projector assemblies are fine, just not durable unless you add a bead of sealant and maybe PPF on the lens. Once you upgrade to a projector, the high output bulbs below are great for visibility and won't blind other drivers if you aim em.

3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights | Tacoma World
 
The stiff ride is likely the bilsteins operating with 2" of their travel pre-compressed. Assuming they're not blown, dropping those to the lowest setting and installing springs meant for your desired ride height should be much better.

I've got 5100s with Dobinsons springs for my 1.5-2" lift and no complaints from me or the wife.

Get a ceramic tint on at least the windshield but preferably all windows. That'll do a ton to help cut the heat. It's enough to spare me a burnt rear on dark leather seats all summer long and I'm in Central TX too. AC even feels more effective.

Go to Crutchfield.com, punch in your options and they'll list out all the gear you need to replace the head unit and keep the steering wheel controls + factory sub working. I paid the extra for the harness service and made the whole install basically plug and play.

For headlights, check out the thread below for bulbs and stay away from TEQ. The chinese projector assemblies are fine, just not durable unless you add a bead of sealant and maybe PPF on the lens. Once you upgrade to a projector, the high output bulbs below are great for visibility and won't blind other drivers if you aim em.

3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights | Tacoma World

Thanks for all of that!

Do you know if there a spring that would give me about the same front height as I have now? I don't like the raked look so wouldn't want to lose anything up front.
 
Thanks for all of that!

Do you know if there a spring that would give me about the same front height as I have now? I don't like the raked look so wouldn't want to lose anything up front.

Dobinsons has a thing on their website that lists out all their spring options with specs. It'll let you narrow down choices for your particular combo of engine, drive wheels, any expected static weight (like bumpers), and desired ride height. Not sure if that exists for other manufacturers but I ran through that to pick my f/r springs for my specific setup.
 
Got it back home today after a nice leisurely drive across Austin ... if there is such a thing.

Fuel door has a broken hinge so I ordered one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/385287526606
Will have to be painted unless I can figure out how to just swap some of the internals, which I doubt.


I only have 1 key and FOB so I ordered 2 new flip key fobs from here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/386189578057
I'll let you know how it goes getting them setup.

Started PB blastering what I can reach for the 02 sensor and wheel bearing.
Also hit the coil pack bolts so I can check them all.

On the drive home I heard a little bit of clunking form the rear which I attribute to the spare tire being a little loose.
I went to tighten it up and I think I am missing some parts.

Can anyone tell me what I am missing?
 

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Today's plans were a new coil pack, new fan clutch, new wheel bearing and new 02 sensor...
IMG_4348.JPG


I started with the 02 sensor and with the right tool, that was pretty easy.
Access was easy for me since it's lifted and there isn't wheel well liner there.
IMG_4344.JPG

IMG_4345.JPG


I highly recommend this tool if you are doing an O2 sensor:
<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FEN9JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=lockeduprc-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=4f34ba328d70daf0b7baeb2abf5715ec&camp=1789&creative=9325">O2 Sensor Socket on Amazon</a>
IMG_4346.JPG


Then I started with the coil pack and since I was in there, I checked them all.
Access is very easy on the driver side:
IMG_4350.JPG


Passenger side requires removal of the air filter housing:
IMG_4352.JPG


I knew one was cracked but didn't know ALL of them were cracked.
Ugh.

I had help when it was time for the fan clutch and we were able to get it apart and out by pulling the fan shroud at the same time.
Didn't have to take any hoses off!

Unfortunately, it looks like the PO cross threaded one of the studs so it had to come out:
IMG_4356.JPG

New one on order.
Ugh!


Thankfully since it was out and getting late-ish, we decided to not do the bearing today. That led us to discover some questionable wire routing, which we temp solved with bright ass zip ties. Bright so that I will notice them and they will irritate me so I will order the proper clips! lol
IMG_4357.JPG

IMG_4358.JPG



I also noticed a few missing nuts & bolts.
Hoping to get to the parts yard soon to find a few of these:
IMG_4353.JPG

IMG_4354.JPG


Also, while sitting under the frame checking things out ... I noticed there is something missing.
What is supposed to go in these clips (driverside):
IMG_4362.JPG
 
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Clips on frame are probably from original suspension system, xreas, which is a good system just very expensive to service and has been replaced by the Bilsteins. I did the same on mine. you may find a metal bracket or two as well on the frame depending on how much of that system was left behind, or not removed. That system had hydraulic lines running from front to rear for the shocks and those plastic clips held the lines.
 
Got some more parts on order!
Coil packs, radiator shroud, serpentine belt, the brackets for the fuel/evap lines and some fender liners.

Cha-Ching!

Unfortunately you can only get the radiator fan clutch mounting stud if you buy an entire assembly ... and that isn't gonna happen for one stud.

I am due to go to the parts yard for a few miscellaneous items and will see if I can grab one or two. If not I will find a comparable part and roll with it.
 
Unfortunately you can only get the radiator fan clutch mounting stud if you buy an entire assembly ... and that isn't gonna happen for one stud.

My local True Value has metric studs. I would think you'd have something similar in your area. Ace or Aubuchon?
 
My local True Value has metric studs. I would think you'd have something similar in your area. Ace or Aubuchon?

Thanks.
I will check the local stores if I can't snag one at the parts yard this weekend.

It looks like M8 thread 28.80mm long.
Each end has about 10.50mm of thread leaving about 7-8mm in the center that is not threaded.

I doubt 2mm here or there would be a huge deal but if I can find an exact one I will opt for that!
 
Scored a few smaller items at the 'yard because the two 4Runners there were picked pretty clean!

Found hood release & cover, lumbar assembly, 1 fuel/evap clip, fan clutch stud and a bunch of misc clamps nuts & bolts. The hardware is to replace a few things I have but that aren't in great shape.

Couldn't find the radiator cover, radiator shroud nuts & bolts, spare tire tools and one fuel/evap clip. Hope I can find those elsewhere.
 

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Well the hood latch assembly has some sort of sensor built into it. Must be a limited thing. No way to remove the sensor from mine and add it to the new one without breaking them apart. I was only swapping it out to clean things up a little, so I ended up wire wheeling it and hitting it with some paint.

The larger project I got done was the wheel bearing which went really smoothly. I did see that the PO had replaced this before because they poked a hole in the disc shaped cover trying to get it off. So I massaged it back to close the hole as much as I could and slopped some RTV on the hole. Meh.

We also swapped in all new coil packs to match the one I had done a few weeks ago. So it should purr like a kitten now.

I also removed the plastidip from the V8 Emblem.
I'm not a chrome fan but the total black murdered out look isn't me either.

Waiting on some replacement hardware to put the new radiator shroud, new belt and new fan clutch in.
 

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Got a new engine cover in place.
I know it does nothing but I like the look!

Also replaced a few small brackets that hold evap lines on the driver side.
Got a few more to find part numbers on and swap out.
Including replacing those bright yellow zip ties with the proper clips!

Also got the new fan clutch & shroud in.
PO had said it ran a little hot on long trips. I have not experienced that but also it's winter and I have not driven far.
I'm wondering if it has/had to do with the aftermarket radiator or cap? Maybe it had to do with the AC Condensor leaking (as in maybe it was running constantly?). That was changed out so I guess time will tell. Considering going back to OEM for the Radiator & cap and doing the thermostat with it. Just to be sure.

Currently looking for a mild water leak. It had rained a TON here and I suspect it was a sunroof drain. Should get that sorted out in the next week.
Also doing a power steering flush and checking the hoses out.

Then it's on to taking care of the 2 spots of bad frame on the passenger side and sorting out the leaky actuator.

After that I will do timing belt, water pump and thermostat. Need to do something with the dash, the CV boots and I want some aftermarket UCAs. Thinking I like the look of the Dirt King with the Ball Joints. Also need to scope out a rear Track bar bracket.

It's coming together!
 

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After that I will do timing belt, water pump and thermostat. Need to do something with the dash, the CV boots and I want some aftermarket UCAs. Thinking I like the look of the Dirt King with the Ball Joints. Also need to scope out a rear Track bar bracket.

It's coming together!

Suggest looking at the JBA UCA's - they are decent for the price
 

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