Long Crank Time

Try a double dose of Techron, Gummout or amsoil for a few tanks.

The problem with only having one fuel bank is as one or two etc injectors change their flow the pcm makes them all richer or leaner to make up for it.

I cleaned and rebuilt my injectors myself.

You could easily simulate an empty fuel rail from leaking injectors by pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the engine stall. Then see how long it cranks to restart.

However, the above should be done both hot and cold. The amount of extra fuel required to start a cold engine is way more than a hot engine.


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Try a double dose of Techron, Gummout or amsoil for a few tanks.

The problem with only having one fuel bank is as one or two etc injectors change their flow the pcm makes them all richer or leaner to make up for it.

I cleaned and rebuilt my injectors myself.

You could easily simulate an empty fuel rail from leaking injectors by pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the engine stall. Then see how long it cranks to restart.

However, the above should be done both hot and cold. The amount of extra fuel required to start a cold engine is way more than a hot engine.


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Is the injector rebuild pretty straightforward?
 
If you really want to, you can change the starter. I had a really long crank time and i did all the same replacements you did. Plugs, wires, battery. Ended up it didn’t fix it and it eventually had a lot of issues starting in general. Changed the starter out and that fixed it.


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Try turning it to the "on" position before starting it. This gives the fuel pump a longer chance to engage before attempting to start.

The fuel pump only starts pumping once you turn the key to the start position. It doesn't have a prime with key on like most domestic vehicles.
 
A couple of updates.
- fuel mileage is 10 mpg. Clearly a problem.
- I’m going to the junkyard this week to get a set of fuel injectors I can send off to get rebuilt. That’ll keep me from having my vehicle off the road while I’m waiting for the injectors. The junkyard doesn’t have my model year, 2002. The closest 3rd Gen they have is 2000. Injector part numbers are the same for 2000 and 2002 so I’m assuming they’ll work.
- I’m going to replace the fuel pressure regulator when I replace the injectors.

Anything else I should do if I’m going to have it taken apart? Any tips or warnings about this work?
 
The money light ever been on?

Fuel pump OEM?

Is the long crank time have any relevance to outside temp or engine temp?

Any access to an OBD II reader?
 
A couple of updates.
- fuel mileage is 10 mpg. Clearly a problem.
- I’m going to the junkyard this week to get a set of fuel injectors I can send off to get rebuilt. That’ll keep me from having my vehicle off the road while I’m waiting for the injectors. The junkyard doesn’t have my model year, 2002. The closest 3rd Gen they have is 2000. Injector part numbers are the same for 2000 and 2002 so I’m assuming they’ll work.
- I’m going to replace the fuel pressure regulator when I replace the injectors.

Anything else I should do if I’m going to have it taken apart? Any tips or warnings about this work?

3.4l injectors are all the same.
fuel rail crush washers 90430-12026
Vaseline for ô rings
intake plenum gaskets 17176-62040 x2
edit: you need 6 washers.
 
Last edited:
The money light ever been on?

Fuel pump OEM?

Is the long crank time have any relevance to outside temp or engine temp?

Any access to an OBD II reader?

Fuel pump is OEM.

Light was on but replacing O2 and AF sensors resolved it.

Crank time seems random and independent of temp.

I don’t have an OBD II, but have been wanting one. I’ve been considering an app for my iPhone along with whatever connector is required. Do you think that’s a good idea?
 
Without having an IPhone I can’t say. Someone may chime in here but I would imagine the web will provide some answers. Having access to the data will hopefully provide some insight on the terrible MPGs as well as possibly the long crank time.

How are the condition of the battery terminals?

Not speaking from experience here but there have been hard starting instances from other members caused by a ECU fuse on the way out. Usually though it occurs only after the engine is fully warm.
 
I have an iPhone and I use Car Scanner Pro. It’s freemium:

Car Scanner ELM OBD2 on the App Store

The app has some really good features and you can customize dashboards. See the photo, that’s the dashboard I leave up every time I drive. Keep my phone up in a dash holder.

And I use this Bluetooth OBD2 unit:

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android. New: Configurable Auto On/Off Amazon.com: LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android. New: Configurable Auto On/Off: Automotive
 

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3.4l injectors are all the same.
fuel rail crush washers 90430-12026
Vaseline for ô rings
intake plenum gaskets 17176-62040 x2
edit: you need 6 washers.

Not all the same injectors for 3.4L are the same. 96-98, 99-02, 03-04 were different injectors with different flow rates. I believe they all had the same connector though.
 
I have an iPhone and I use Car Scanner Pro. It’s freemium:

Car Scanner ELM OBD2 on the App Store

The app has some really good features and you can customize dashboards. See the photo, that’s the dashboard I leave up every time I drive. Keep my phone up in a dash holder.

And I use this Bluetooth OBD2 unit:

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android. New: Configurable Auto On/Off Amazon.com: LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android. New: Configurable Auto On/Off: Automotive

Wow! That’s awesome. I’ll check it out. Thanks
 
Not all the same injectors for 3.4L are the same. 96-98, 99-02, 03-04 were different injectors with different flow rates. I believe they all had the same connector though.

iIs there a different part number? As far as I know the Grey injectors up to 98 and the brown injectors after that are the same. infact the brown injectors are preferable.
 
iIs there a different part number? As far as I know the Grey injectors up to 98 and the brown injectors after that are the same. infact the brown injectors are preferable.

23209-62030 96-98 4Runner 3.4L
23209-62040 99-02 4Runner, 99-04 Tacoma 3.4L
 
23209-62030 96-98 4Runner 3.4L
23209-62040 99-02 4Runner, 99-04 Tacoma 3.4L

Is there a difference in flow rates so they are not interchangeable? I actually thought the Grey ones were for the 2nd gen 3.0 and continued till 1998.

edit: the op should go with the newer ones.
 
Last edited:
Is there a difference in flow rates so they are not interchangeable? I actually thought the Grey ones were for the 2nd gen 3.0 and continued till 1998.

edit: the op should go with the newer ones.
I’ve always heard that they are different flow rates, but they are definitely different spray patterns which may affect performance.
 
I’m no mechanic or even good at diagnosis but in my reading here starter contacts can be an issue and replaced on the cheap. Lots of threads on subject think Tim does a video also.
 

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