Looking to upgrade non-JBL system 07 T4R - You Choos the Parts!

yes it was... so your saying i need another power cord form distributor block...not from battery correct..thanks again man. The info I have already learned is invaluable
 
eskimochaos said:
yes it was... so your saying i need another power cord form distributor block...not from battery correct..thanks again man. The info I have already learned is invaluable
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That's correct. Depending on how long the run is from battery to distro and distro to each amp you might have enough with that kit, but I doubt it. You will need a ground for each amp too.

Did you check out caraudio.com?

Edit: Never mind just saw your post.

Be patient. Some guys are jerks, but you can learn a lot of information from that site.
 
Alright great. One last question.

Airbur mentioned a cable from HU to amp to signal when to turn on and off. Since I am using the stock non-jbl HU does a cabe exist that comes out the back b/c non-jbl HU have amp built in.

Lastly, am I correct that the JL amp will connect to the speaker wires out of the HU? Technically I shouldnt have to open the dash right?

Thanks again Clemson!

yes I posted on caraudio
 
For the front.

As for the specific wiring situation or difficulty in removing the seats, I'm unfortunately useless! I know there are some technically adept people here on this board, and I'm sure someone has removed the seats before. I also have the mastersheet for the 03 (I believe) and up 4Runner if you want/need that, in PDF form.

With a JL amp and Infinity Kappas, you'll hear a noticeable improvement in the sound quality. Keep in mind, the previous generation of Kappas (including the fronts you were looking at) had bright highs because of the kind of material they made the tweeters out of. That can be fixed by tweaking the EQ/treble. Other than that, they sound great in my girlfriend's car, with the same amp, previous generation coaxial Kappa. I think you'll be very happy.

Later on, I would recommend upgrading to a new headunit to really complete the audio experience.

eskimochaos said:
Thanks for the quick reply. Are those Kappas replacements for the front or rear.

That final price seams reasonable.

Am I correct that the amp will just connect to each of the 4 speaker wires. I will have to run wires from original speakers to amp back to speakers?

Is it easy to remove the seats?

After reading your buildup..how do you think this will sound?

Thanks again for your quick replies
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eskimochaos said:
Alright great. One last question.

Airbur mentioned a cable from HU to amp to signal when to turn on and off. Since I am using the stock non-jbl HU does a cabe exist that comes out the back b/c non-jbl HU have amp built in.

Lastly, am I correct that the JL amp will connect to the speaker wires out of the HU? Technically I shouldnt have to open the dash right?

Thanks again Clemson!

yes I posted on caraudio
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RCA's run from the HU to each amp. These carry the signals and such. If the HU does not have RCA inputs you will need another piece of hardware. I think this is called a LOC (Line Out Converter), I could be wrong though.

When you are looking at after market HUs you will see options for two or three pre outs always get three.

Speaker wires run from the amp to the speakers, not the HU.

I will try to make another paint IMG.

Here it is:

Amp-1.jpg~original
 
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Haha ok...found this guy

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GfaMvqo77Ks/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=142SLC4&s=0&cc=01

Here is what I am thinking as far has hooking amp to speakers and so forth.

Open all door panels - run all speaker wires to line out coverter - connect 4 outputs from LOC to amp via RCA cables - speaker wire form amp to speakers

is this thinking correct?

what about on/off cable from HU we have been discussing?

Thanks again..cant seem to stress it enough!
 
There is a mistake in the picture above. The wire from battery to HU is the constant. There is another wire somewhere that tells your HU when to turn on. Since your staying stock for now you don't have to worry about this.
 
Clemsonfan15 said:
There is a mistake in the picture above. The wire from battery to HU is the constant. There is another wire somewhere that tells your HU when to turn on. Since your staying stock for now you don't have to worry about this.
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Could you clarify this a little?

The amps will be on if the car is on?

Thanks again clemson!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
eskimochaos said:
Could you clarify this a little?

The amps will be on if the car is on?

Thanks again clemson!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I'm not 100% positive on this next statement.

I was unclear in previous posts. There is some wire or something that connects to the amp and HU. This wire will tell the amps when to turn on and off.

So if the car was running and you turned your HU off the amps would also be cut off.
 
I have an 08 4runner SR5 with stock head unit non jbl system and no navigation. I think the radio inside sounds great. I ordered a 2 channel Rockford amp it pushes 250 watts at 4ohms bridged and i ordered a rockford 10inch PUNCH 2 woofer that comes enclosed from rockford with one of their boxes. I figured i just need a little more bass. Either way the speaker will be here monday and when its all hooked up ill let you know how it sounds.
 
FoozGrind said:
I have an 08 4runner SR5 with stock head unit non jbl system and no navigation. I think the radio inside sounds great. I ordered a 2 channel Rockford amp it pushes 250 watts at 4ohms bridged and i ordered a rockford 10inch PUNCH 2 woofer that comes enclosed from rockford with one of their boxes. I figured i just need a little more bass. Either way the speaker will be here monday and when its all hooked up ill let you know how it sounds.
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Again audio is one of those things...that's why some people like Sony TVs and others like Hitachi Tvs.

I dont know if you read earlier in the post but coming from a 5k home theater setup to what I have in the truck now is just awful. The music just looses so much when I play it in my car. at the home, the depth is so much more and quality in general is FAR better I set myself a budget and am looking to do a full replacement. As of know, I have a buddy that will install it for a case of Corona's and 1k worth of audio ecquip that should make it sound worlds better.

Can you post the link for the sub-setup you have. Thats still up in the air for me.

Thanks man!
 
eskimochaos said:
Again audio is one of those things...that's why some people like Sony TVs and others like Hitachi Tvs.

I dont know if you read earlier in the post but coming from a 5k home theater setup to what I have in the truck now is just awful. The music just looses so much when I play it in my car. at the home, the depth is so much more and quality in general is FAR better I set myself a budget and am looking to do a full replacement. As of know, I have a buddy that will install it for a case of Corona's and 1k worth of audio ecquip that should make it sound worlds better.

Can you post the link for the sub-setup you have. Thats still up in the air for me.

Thanks man!
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Just make sure your friend drinks those AFTER he installs the stuff. :D

Are you thinking about adding a sub now?
 
eskimochaos said:
Yea. How about this guy?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120266484253&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=002

I think that should thump quite a bit!

Do you recommend dynomatting the entire car?
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I don't think that's a good idea. I would stay away from Kenwood. I don't think they will sound how you want them too. I would go on caraudio.com and do a search for SQ subs. I would probably try to find one of these used or possibly new.

I think the type R that your friend said he was giving you would be ok. They have a good mix of SQ and SPL. I am running two 12" right now in my 4runner and really like them.

What kind of amp is your friend giving you?

I would sound deaden at least your doors. If you get a sub I would do the rear hatch and maybe some more areas. I would probably not get Dynamat though. There are better sound deadeners out there for less money.

If you sound deaden your entire car you have to take EVERY THING out. This could prove to be a VERY long process. Doing the doors isn't that bad however. I would do both the inside of the door and the rear of the door pannel. Sound deadening your car will also help to remove road noise.
 
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