Lower control arms need to be rebuilt. So many Qs?

K_Labs

K_Labs

Member
Ok so I've been putting this problem off as it only occurs between 40-50 mph i think its called "death wobble" I just drive slower or faster. More often than not the later. I know for a fact it needs lower control arms rebuilt as the bushings are shot. While I'm in there I plan to do axels and cv boots. I have a 3" lift. Which axels does everyone else use? Both front calipers have been replaced within the past 3 months. Power steering pump went out on me about 2 weeks ago and then this problem started. It's also time for new tires pretty quick here.

Does any one make aftermarket lower control arms? Which CV boots and axels should I buy? I currently have JBA UCAs what bushings and ball joints should I buy for my lower control arms if aftermarket isn't available?
 
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I highly doubt that's your LCA's. That's like what unbalanced tires cause.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
I would check the hub assemblies as well. Wobble there may be contributing to that issue. If you are in there may as well evaluate swapping those out as well.
 
K_Labs said:
Ok so I've been putting this problem off as it only occurs between 40-50 mph i think its called "death wobble" I just drive slower or faster. More often than not the later. I know for a fact it needs lower control arms rebuilt as the bushings are shot. While I'm in there I plan to do axels and cv boots. I have a 3" lift. Which axels does everyone else use? Both front calipers have been replaced within the past 3 months. Power steering pump went out on me about 2 weeks ago and then this problem started. It's also time for new tires pretty quick here.

Does any one make aftermarket lower control arms? Which CV boots and axels should I buy? I currently have JBA UCAs what bushings and ball joints should I buy for my lower control arms if aftermarket isn't available?
Click to expand...

Rebuilding my LCA soon, my bushings are shot too but doesnt create death wobble so doubt its that. I got a set of LCA takeoffs for $50 USD shipped to me in Canada, it included senkei 555 balljoints, bought whiteline LCA bushings & Poly performance Taco tabs for the cam tabs
 
It definitely has nothing to do with LCA's. An issue like this has to be in a rotating assembly. Not going to be a hub/bearing either since it only happens at certain speeds.

Most likely it's a defective or unbalanced tire. The easiest way to find out is throw someone else's wheels/tires on and test drive it. If the issue persists it could be torque converter shudder, which is common on these vehicles since most people follow the poor advice of never replacing transmission fluid.
 
My upper ball joints were one of my last wear items that I replaced at 190k miles. I had a shake at 71mph and some weird wobbles over irregularities on local roads. The new uppers fixed that.

Grab the top of your tire when parked and pull in and out and see if the top of the tire moves in and out or if you just pull the whole SUV. My upper ball joint clearly moved a lot and I didn't realize how shot it was.
 
I'm already shopping for new tires and I will try the push pull thing to look for play in the upper ball joints they are only 3 years old though and the lowers are original. The reasoning for wanting to rebuild the lowers is because the bushings are shot and my CV boots are ripped and grease everywhere... need to make sure my alignment is on point so the new tires last.
 
K_Labs said:
I'm already shopping for new tires and I will try the push pull thing to look for play in the upper ball joints they are only 3 years old though and the lowers are original. The reasoning for wanting to rebuild the lowers is because the bushings are shot and my CV boots are ripped and grease everywhere... need to make sure my alignment is on point so the new tires last.
Click to expand...

I'd agree with the above to check tires for imbalance or wheel bearings for play. The bad bushings for me seemed to give kind of a floaty all over the place feel instead of the rapid wheel movement that you're experiencing. I'd also check alignment as it can cause all sorts of weird issues if its wacked. Even if cam bolts are seized, get a firestone lifetime alignment and at least get the baseline numbers of what you're coming from.

If you're interested in rebuilding the LCAs, I have a writeup on my rebuild process here: Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Also saw you mentioned CVs, I have a writeup on my CV reboot here: CV Reboot Tutorial with Boot Stretch (80+ Pictures) and my CV axle and seal replacement here: CV Replacement Tutorial with New Seals (120+ Pictures)

Each writeup has a decent amount of pictures and information on parts and tools I used to give you an idea of what you might be getting into time, money, and parts wise. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd be happy to help out the best I can.

If you want to look into wheel bearings/hub assemblies while you're down there, check here for some writeups made by other members: 4th Gen Maintenance Tutorials, Writeups, and Picture Threads
 
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I agree with what the others are saying about other options being the problem... And I've rebuilt many sets of 4th gen LCA ...but nobody here must have had the inner sleeves of the bushings wear out to the point they detach them selves from the arm ...meaning soon as you remove the LCA the inner sleeves and bushings fall right out....of the LCA
I can tell you first hand .... that is one heck of a death wobble along with looking like drunk driver going down the highway..
Another great aftermarket option are total chaos LCA's ....love mine. iAlso installed/welded in taco tabs and marlin Crrawler HD frame brace kit ..... wont ever need an alignment shop again no more weekly visits after wheeling each time. The whole set up is life changing..lol. seriously though
 
K_Labs said:
2003-2009 Toyota Lower Control Arm 48069-60010 | Boch Toyota South

I priced OEM bushings and was a minimal price difference. I'd rather just swap the old ones with new.

I decided to go OEM because I don't want to do the job again. The last ones took 17 years to wear out.
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smart choice ..glad your getting that situated.
and get yourself some taco tabs from Poly Performance you wont have to worry about an alignment anymore...you'll thank yourself over and over.
 
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Oneluv13T4R said:
smart choice ..glad your getting that situated.
and get yourself some taco tabs from Poly Performance you wont have to worry about an alignment anymore...you'll thank yourself over and over.
Click to expand...

What are taco tabs? I know it has something to do with a Tacoma part.

Ok so update. Cars been parked for a little over a month now and I spotted some used Falcon Wildpeaks. They have way more tread than my KO2s did and wear is super even. Mounted and balanced for $220. PROBLEM IS GONE!!!!! The ride is so much better. Still bought OEM LCAs and gonna get OEM axles in about a month. After all that is installed I'm going for new rims tires and an alignment.
 
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right on man glad again to hear everything worked out sounds like a killer deal for the tires. especially with them solving your issue.
Taco tabs aren't a Tacoma thing there for tacomas, 4runners, lexus, tundra, fj cruiser ...etc
you install them with LCAs and once set your alignment with them theyll never come out of alignment again...once and done!!! go onto Poly Performance site and look up Taco Tabs or Toyota LCA CAM TABS for 100 bucks never worry about alignment getting out of wack.:rockon:
 
Do you guys just take the tabs in when you go in for an alignment and have them install or do you mark position of tabs and align yourself afterwards? Not sure if that's something they would include with an alignment.
 
Ericcamaro said:
Do you guys just take the tabs in when you go in for an alignment and have them install or do you mark position of tabs and align yourself afterwards? Not sure if that's something they would include with an alignment.
Click to expand...

Install and then bring in for alignment. Easy as long as the old hardware is not seized.
 
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