Lube and Torqe Drive/Prop Shaft Cost

I do mine every 5k miles after I change the oil before I put the skids back on. Prop shaft bolts have never been loose enough to tighten, but i check. Spiders definitely get some air in them that needs purged with new grease. The slip yokes, well who knows but I pump some moly fortified in there from a separate grease gun. Takes a whole 10 minutes if you have the right tools.
 
I gotta admit it’s one of my least favorite things.
It takes me at least a 1/2 hr of laying on my back and that makes me nauseous in my old age.
Most of that time is cleaning up the mess I make.
I’ve since learned (finally) how to properly bleed air out of my grease gun so hopefully it’ll go faster next time.
All said, it’s still freaking worth it to know it’s been done correctly.
 
Whenever I bring my 4th gen in for any other issues beyond my capabilities, my mechanic has maybe charged me $20 to lube all the zerks/yolks in the driveline.

I have warranty with my 5th gen and get free maintenance for 3 years so they take care of that bit for free. I have 3 grease guns though. So, I do it myself otherwise.
 
I gotta admit it’s one of my least favorite things.
It takes me at least a 1/2 hr of laying on my back and that makes me nauseous in my old age.
Most of that time is cleaning up the mess I make.
I’ve since learned (finally) how to properly bleed air out of my grease gun so hopefully it’ll go faster next time.
All said, it’s still freaking worth it to know it’s been done correctly.

hows the 5w-30 treating your 21 mpgs? any difference?
 

Good advice in this link. And the LockNLube is a definite help.
I wipe away the purged grease otherwise it will sling around the underside of the chassis when you drive.
One problem that I have with my two grease guns is that they always leak after months of storage so I wrap sheets of paper towel or rags around them and enclose them in multiple plastic bags.
 
One problem that I have with my two grease guns is that they always leak after months of storage so I wrap sheets of paper towel or rags around them and enclose them in multiple plastic bags.
I have two grease guns with the same leak issue. My solution was to buy a plastic Tupperware cereal container. It's just big enough that both grease guns can stand up in it and the container doesn't fall over. They just leak into the container now, and I just wipe the bottom of them off when I go to use them.
 
How much grease is needed for this job.
Couple ounces? Or a lot more?
I'm considering buying a new gun and wondering if I can get away with a small one.

Lets assume the 15K schedule has always been met.

Are all the zerks accessible no matter what position the drive shaft in in?
 
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How much grease is needed for this job.
Couple ounces? Or a lot more?
I'm considering buying a new gun and wondering if I can get away with a small one.

Lets assume the 15K schedule has always been met.

Are all the zerks accessible no matter what position the drive shaft in in?

There are a few handy tips you'll gain by watching a couple youtube videos. The front shaft should spin freely unless it's in 4wd, so all the zerks should be easily accessible. You might need to lift one of the rear wheels off the ground to spin the rear shaft, with the transmission in neutral, to access the rear zerks. Overall, even if you buy 2 grease guns, a tube each of lithium grease and moly grease, and a Lock & Load coupler, total out of pocket is about $100. That's enough grease to last a long time. You'll use more of the lithium grease than the moly grease, so maybe buy 2 tubes of the lithium.

The owner's manual says it's acceptable to use lithium grease for both the spider bearings and slide yokes, so you could go that route if you want to keep it simple.
 
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I’m on my second tube in 11 years. I have a second grease gun nib but only use M1 pink grease since it meets both specs.
 

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