Maximize your KDSS + extended travel shocks

So what is the final consensus on the part number for the bushing? It looks like some people said that 48818-60080 is not the correct number, but some posts were edited so it is hard to tell.

Edit: 48818-60080 is the wrong size.
 
Last edited:
Can anyone confirm what the max amount of extension is that these will be compatible with? I'm looking at having ordering a pair of these, but they have a whopping 25.020 extended length and require extended brake lines.

xLEhKAr.jpg
 
Can anyone confirm what the max amount of extension is that these will be compatible with? I'm looking at having ordering a pair of these, but they have a whopping 25.020 extended length and require extended brake lines.

xLEhKAr.jpg


Where is that measurement taken from. If it’s from center of lower eyelet to top of the bottom bushing ( where it rest on frame) then those will work.


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or are those the tundra shocks? a lot of the "long" travel shocks require you to use a bump stop drop which defeats the purpose of a longer travel shock lol.
 
Where is that measurement taken from. If it’s from center of lower eyelet to top of the bottom bushing ( where it rest on frame) then those will work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure. Whatever fox uses to measure. Straight from their website. After reading through this thread a second time it definitely looks like these will work just fine.
 
or are those the tundra shocks? a lot of the "long" travel shocks require you to use a bump stop drop which defeats the purpose of a longer travel shock lol.

They are the tundra shocks. It’s what accutune recommends for a non KDSS kit and it comes with longer brake lines. They reach max compression 1.6” sooner than stock, but they have 2.5” more max extension vs stock. The other option is to get the kit they recommend for KDSS 4runners, which is the standard 4Runner shock from fox. Compared to the tundra shock it has an extra .5” of compression travel, but it has 1.5” less max extensio.

So is it really worth it to get an extra .5” of compression, but by doing so you are sacrificing 1.5” of extension?
 
Installed mine yesterday evening. The install is fairly simple.....except when you have a C4 diff skid. I got to the driver bolt of the swaybar and the damn bolt wouldn't go back in. I worked and worked until I realized the problem was the C4 mount was not lined up correctly so the bolt was hitting it and wouldn't go in. I finally came to the conclusion I was going to have to remove the bolts on the top of the diff skid and swing it down. Problem was, after I installed my gas tank skid the bolts are not reachable. So I had to remove the gas tank skid, remove the top bolts on the diff skid and swing it down, then I was able to get the bolt into the swaybar and through the diff skid mount. Then of course I had to put that all back together. This was probably an idiots guide to installing these things as it took me 5 hours, partly because I had the 4Runner on the ground (so that my cheap a$$ jack would work) and it was really cramped and it took me a while to figure out what the problem was. Without the diff skid this would have been really easy.
 
Installed mine yesterday evening. The install is fairly simple.....except when you have a C4 diff skid. I got to the driver bolt of the swaybar and the damn bolt wouldn't go back in. I worked and worked until I realized the problem was the C4 mount was not lined up correctly so the bolt was hitting it and wouldn't go in. I finally came to the conclusion I was going to have to remove the bolts on the top of the diff skid and swing it down. Problem was, after I installed my gas tank skid the bolts are not reachable. So I had to remove the gas tank skid, remove the top bolts on the diff skid and swing it down, then I was able to get the bolt into the swaybar and through the diff skid mount. Then of course I had to put that all back together. This was probably an idiots guide to installing these things as it took me 5 hours, partly because I had the 4Runner on the ground (so that my cheap a$$ jack would work) and it was really cramped and it took me a while to figure out what the problem was. Without the diff skid this would have been really easy.

Any reason you unbolted the sway bar at the axle mounts instead of just removing the 4 bolts that go through the spacers? I have the C4 skid as well and never had any reason for it to get in the way during the install.
 
Any reason you unbolted the sway bar at the axle mounts instead of just removing the 4 bolts that go through the spacers? I have the C4 skid as well and never had any reason for it to get in the way during the install.

According to the instructions you have to, both of them.
 
Maximum travel

I installed these before my Moab trip last week. Easy install and I am happy with the results. However, the maximum length of shock that these allow seems to be shorter than previously stated in this thread. I installed them with FOX 883-26-006 shocks, which are typically for a Tundra, but can be installed in a T4R for longer travel (bump stop spacers required). They have an advertised extended length of 25.020". At full droop (frame jacked up high enough to have both rear wheels off the ground and KDSS valves open) the passenger side bracket makes contact with the track bar. I grinded the bracket some so that it no longer made contact, but it looks like that was just about at the maximum length of the shock anyway, so it looks like 25.020" is the maximum length of shock that will benefit from this without taller spacers.

Photo at full droop with a jack:
9VpPFFY.jpg


Photos of real world maximum flex:
GBArCJG.jpg

bEAwRIx.jpg
 
I installed these before my Moab trip last week. Easy install and I am happy with the results. However, the maximum length of shock that these allow seems to be shorter than previously stated in this thread. I installed them with FOX 883-26-006 shocks, which are typically for a Tundra, but can be installed in a T4R for longer travel (bump stop spacers required). They have an advertised extended length of 25.020". At full droop (frame jacked up high enough to have both rear wheels off the ground and KDSS valves open) the passenger side bracket makes contact with the track bar. I grinded the bracket some so that it no longer made contact, but it looks like that was just about at the maximum length of the shock anyway, so it looks like 25.020" is the maximum length of shock that will benefit from this without taller spacers.

Photo at full droop with a jack:
9VpPFFY.jpg


Photos of real world maximum flex:
GBArCJG.jpg

bEAwRIx.jpg


I think to really maximize all the potential travel of the KDSS setup you need a shock that will allow you to run stock length rear bump stops which would gain you 3" ish of travel. As well you'd probably need a modified trac bar that would avoid the KDSS brackets. Have you looked at the Sonoran Steel bar and the Radflo shocks that accompany that setup? I run these in addition to these spacers
 
I think to really maximize all the potential travel of the KDSS setup you need a shock that will allow you to run stock length rear bump stops which would gain you 3" ish of travel. As well you'd probably need a modified trac bar that would avoid the KDSS brackets. Have you looked at the Sonoran Steel bar and the Radflo shocks that accompany that setup? I run these in addition to these spacers

Now that I have installed these, I will have both since I already have the Sonoran Steel Trac-bar. Trust me, that's all I am doing, tired of mods. I'm about to head to Colorado so I'll see how it goes.
 
Looks like their was a falling out with the designer and the company. The designer is no longer with the company (blackgate)
 
Now that I have installed these, I will have both since I already have the Sonoran Steel Trac-bar. Trust me, that's all I am doing, tired of mods. I'm about to head to Colorado so I'll see how it goes.

I'll be interested to hear what you think.
Where you headed in CO? I'm in the Denver area
 

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