Melted OEM AUX switch wires

LTDSC

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I installed a LED bar around Christmas time, its been on and working great for some time. Today i smelled some weird electrical smell while driving and figured that couldnt be good. I did some investigating in my console and found this tonight.

20140122_202021_1_zpsn3dsdmog.jpg~original


This is the wire that melted the loom in the pic above. Looks like maybe a diode or whatever got too hot or shorted out.

20140122_202048_1_zpspr9q8xib.jpg~original


Now, i know first thing everyone will think is how did you wire your light. I used the drawings i found below;

foglite_zps5e0b3a1d.jpg~original


and this one

xLighting_diagram.JPG.pagespeed.ic.GvnFNcAo2W_zpssw33f5a8.jpg~original


What exactly would have caused this? Could the diode just go out on me? The switch wont work obviously so im hoping i didnt blow the OEM AUX switch. I know the OEM wiring in the harness is very very tiny, could it just have maxed out the little wiring?

Can i just rewire it with bigger wiring without a diode or whatever is in that wire which melted?

Anyone have any idea?
 
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I installed a LED bar around Christmas time, its been on and working great for some time. Today i smelled some weird electrical smell while driving and figured that couldnt be good. I did some investigating in my console and found this tonight.

20140122_202021_1_zpsn3dsdmog.jpg~original


This is the wire that melted the loom in the pic above. Looks like maybe a diode or whatever got too hot or shorted out.

20140122_202048_1_zpspr9q8xib.jpg~original


Now, i know first thing everyone will think is how did you wire your light. I used the drawings i found below;

foglite_zps5e0b3a1d.jpg~original


and this one

xLighting_diagram.JPG.pagespeed.ic.GvnFNcAo2W_zpssw33f5a8.jpg~original


What exactly would have caused this? Could the diode just go out on me? The switch wont work obviously so im hoping i didnt blow the OEM AUX switch. I know the OEM wiring in the harness is very very tiny, could it just have maxed out the little wiring?

Can i just rewire it with bigger wiring without a diode or whatever is in that wire which melted?

Anyone have any idea?

First off - glad you caught it and it wasn't any worse.

Did you follow the wiring diagrams to the letter? Just wondering what the purpose of the diode is and if that's the part that burned. Which actual wire melted? Was it the signal wire?
 
The diode is in the oem wiring. I did a ton of googling last night and its apparently there for oem wiring. As if I was plugging in to factory system. It's so the computer won't overload the switch. But a lot of people instruct to remove the wire with the little diode in it and wire a normal wire and have no issues. Its been hooked up for a month no issue then I was driving with it off and smelled plastic.

Its the red/green wire so its the wire in which leads to the relay.
 
The diode is in the oem wiring. I did a ton of googling last night and its apparently there for oem wiring. As if I was plugging in to factory system. It's so the computer won't overload the switch. But a lot of people instruct to remove the wire with the little diode in it and wire a normal wire and have no issues. Its been hooked up for a month no issue then I was driving with it off and smelled plastic.

Its the red/green wire so its the wire in which leads to the relay.

Do you know what load the diode was rated to handle?
 
Couldn't find that info. I have a 5amp fuse from the relay to the switch and its not blown.

I would imagine the diode is between 1-3.5A and it is certainly possible that it melted because the draw was too much.

How long was the bar running before the melting occurred?

the bar draws 180w/12v = 15amps through a relay. The relay coil typically pulls <1 amp.
 
I would imagine the diode is between 1-3.5A and it is certainly possible that it melted because the draw was too much.

How long was the bar running before the melting occurred?

the bar draws 180w/12v = 15amps through a relay. The relay coil typically pulls <1 amp.

bar wasnt on. Thats why im confused. I've left it on for an hour with me watching everything previously and nothing.
 
bar wasnt on. Thats why im confused. I've left it on for an hour with me watching everything previously and nothing.

I've noticed that sometimes the plastic cover over the shifter gets pretty hot sometimes, are you sure that it wasn't touching anything that got really hot?
 
Couldn't find that info. I have a 5amp fuse from the relay to the switch and its not blown.

You have the relay between the switch and relay or between the power and the switch? There should be one between the switch and wherever its power is from.

All the FJ switches I've installed I've cut the harness past that diode (didn't actually know it was a diode) before installing. Not sure if that's right or wrong but they've worked fine for 4 years.
 
I've noticed that sometimes the plastic cover over the shifter gets pretty hot sometimes, are you sure that it wasn't touching anything that got really hot?
could very well have touched it. I havent fully opened up the wiring as it was dark. Planned to do it here soon, but the switch is inoperable now.
 
You have the relay between the switch and relay or between the power and the switch? There should be one between the switch and wherever its power is from.

All the FJ switches I've installed I've cut the harness past that diode (didn't actually know it was a diode) before installing. Not sure if that's right or wrong but they've worked fine for 4 years.

theres a relay which is fused from battery to relay and fused after the relay to the switch. Also fused from green trigger wire to power.
 
theres a relay which is fused from battery to relay and fused after the relay to the switch. Also fused from green trigger wire to power.

I'm still trying to understand what part of the harness wiring has a diode in it? Is it to do with the OEM fog light switch (did it come with it's own harness?)

ie. of the diagrams you posted - which wire melted?
 
I'm still trying to understand what part of the harness wiring has a diode in it? Is it to do with the OEM fog light switch (did it come with it's own harness?)

ie. of the diagrams you posted - which wire melted?

It's in the switch's harness, and I think the green wire.
 
It's the one separated in the second photo. Its the green wire with red stripe.

I took at apart and rewired it. Checked all connections and fuses and it still won't work. Think I blew the switch.
 
It's the one separated in the second photo. Its the green wire with red stripe.

I took at apart and rewired it. Checked all connections and fuses and it still won't work. Think I blew the switch.

From back when you had the relay wired in reverse? I don't see how the switch would blow under such low draw otherwise. How exactly was it wired that time?
 
From back when you had the relay wired in reverse? I don't see how the switch would blow under such low draw otherwise. How exactly was it wired that time?
Wired exactly the same. Except on the relay I had lower Lin and right pin reversed. That's all.

I'm going to buy a new relay, I ran a jumper and it still didn't click. Hoping just a bunk relay.
 
Wired exactly the same. Except on the relay I had lower Lin and right pin reversed. That's all.

I'm going to buy a new relay, I ran a jumper and it still didn't click. Hoping just a bunk relay.

Which pins are those that were reversed? It's possible that could fry the switch if you had it so that the signal wire, when depressed connected to the ground wire since I don't believe that would be fused unless that's the 5a fuse you were talking about before, in which case it would have tripped.

Definitely worth trying a new relay though before getting a new switch. FYI I ordered 10 with sockets from amazon for 12 bucks with prime shipping.

Amazon.com: Genssi (10 Pack) 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style (40AMP-HRNS): Automotive

not prime anymore, but this option is Amazon.com: Absolute USA RLS125-10 SPDT 30/40A 12 VCD Automotive Relay - 10 Pack: Car Electronics
 

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