Mod Priorities for a 1999 5 speed e-locked

Scirocco84

New member
Hi All,

As most of us do, I live in the real world, and time an money are constraints to the dreams I have for the rig. I'd love to hear what order you would do your big mods. I'm not going for looks, or for maximum articulation, I'm going more for bomb proof. I want a rig that I can take to Baja for a long trip and get from A to B off road with maximum dependability and go on a backcountry camping trip with the wife and kids and never worry about a broken this or that. More of an overland, go-most-places, won't-cause-major-damage-if-I-slip-off-a-rock-the-wrong-way, kind of rig.

I'm open minded to your suggestions, and here's what I'm thinking, in order:

1" body lift
265/75R16 Duratracs
Rock Sliders
Skid Plates
Front Bumper
Rear Bumper with swing out
5th 5 spoke rim
2-3" suspension lift
Low profile roof rack
Winch for front bumper
Field Monitor

Also, I've got about 1,500/year to work with, so bonus points if you can group your mods in about 1500 dollar chunks.

Anyway, bottom line is that I want to hear how you'd do it.

Finally, here's a pic because we all love pics... (don't worry, I took the chintzy brush guard off and the tube steps are next)
 

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Looks like you have a pretty good order. I would do the full suspension lift first. Then body lift, wheels, tires, and then continue your list from there.
With just a lift and decent tires you will be surprised what a Runner can handle.
 
Hi All,

As most of us do, I live in the real world, and time an money are constraints to the dreams I have for the rig. I'd love to hear what order you would do your big mods. I'm not going for looks, or for maximum articulation, I'm going more for bomb proof. I want a rig that I can take to Baja for a long trip and get from A to B off road with maximum dependability and go on a backcountry camping trip with the wife and kids and never worry about a broken this or that. More of an overland, go-most-places, won't-cause-major-damage-if-I-slip-off-a-rock-the-wrong-way, kind of rig.

A bone-stock truck can do all of this.

I'm open minded to your suggestions, and here's what I'm thinking, in order:

1" body lift
265/75R16 Duratracs
Rock Sliders
Skid Plates
Front Bumper
Rear Bumper with swing out
5th 5 spoke rim
2-3" suspension lift
Low profile roof rack
Winch for front bumper
Field Monitor

Also, I've got about 1,500/year to work with, so bonus points if you can group your mods in about 1500 dollar chunks.

Anyway, bottom line is that I want to hear how you'd do it.

Finally, here's a pic because we all love pics... (don't worry, I took the chintzy brush guard off and the tube steps are next)

Tires are always good. They don't need to be huge, 265/75 or 235/85s are fine. Make sure you have a full size spare, a way to change it, and pack a plug kit and/or a can of fix a flat just in case. A source of compressed air (CO2 or compressor) isn't strictly necessary, but I wouldn't head out without mine.

With your current build priorities, the body lift is meaningless and possibly counterproductive. Skip it.

Sliders and skids are good, if you're going to be in terrain where you need them, that's your call. If you need sliders then you need a rear bumper, because your departure angle isn't kind. The approach angle is better. I'd add sliders, gas tank skid, rear bumper, IFS skid, front bumper, in that order and as necessary. You might not need any of it, and all of them add weight.

A winch and front bumper is a lot of money and weight, up to you to decide if you need them... consider a comealong, or a hilift and set of winching chains?

A roof rack can add room for cargo, but again, weight. Learning to pack lighter can obviate the need for external storage, depending on how big your family is and how you like to camp. A lighter truck means better mpg, better performance, and less stress on the suspension and drivetrain.

The field monitor is pure expo bling. I never look at mine, but my boy gets a kick out of telling me exactly how many degrees sideways we are. :)

You didn't mention them, but lights. Anyone who thinks they're blingy hasn't tried to navigate a dirt track in the middle of The Maze at 11:00 PM on a moonless night with nothing but tired fogged out OEM headlights. It's DARK out there. If you're headed into the backcountry, freshen up your stock lights, and consider adding some aux lighting too.

I also didn't see you mention spares. Making a rig bulletproof is impossible, but packing the right spares can make all the difference. Up to you how much you want to carry (got room for a spare truck?), but items I'd consider important are a CV shaft, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, radiator hose, fuses, belts. Stop Leak, a can of head gasket repair, Rescue Tape, duct tape, electrical tape, JB Weld, bailing wire, zip ties, hose clamps. Carry at least a couple extra quarts of oil. Brake fluid and gear oil, ATF if necessary, fixing a leak in the field won't do you any good if you can't replace the lost fluid. All you need is to get back to pavement, but you'll be pissed if you're forced to hike out because you aren't carrying the right gear. :)

That's a lot of typing, I'm going to stop now. My point is, your stock truck is already bomb proof and can take you lots of places. If your concern is to have a road-tripping dirt warrior that can get you in and out of the backcountry in one piece, staying up to date on your maintenance is far more important than mods. If it were me, once my maintenance was baselined, I'd focus on a quality set of AT tires, a well stocked bag of recovery gear and tools, and another bag of just-in-case survival gear for you and your family. Then head out on a couple trips and get a feel for your truck and how you're going to use it before you consider adding things like armor, racks, etc.
 
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I couldn't agree more with kidvermicious. Don't do more than you need to. Road trip it, wheel it, find out what you do and don't need. A 3rd gen, especially with a locker, will go more places than 99% of the 4WDs out there.
 
A little lift and good tires goes a long way! And it looks better too. After that I'd think about gearing and traction devices. Elock the front and 4.88's should be just under $1500!

After that a stereo that will blow your wife's skirt up! J/K Buy an ARB fridge so your beer is always cold!

:guitar3:
 
With your current build priorities, the body lift is meaningless and possibly counterproductive. Skip it.

My thoughts with the body lift were that the 265/75s would rub when stuffed all the way up into the wheel well. Maybe that's not the case, or maybe I need to re-evaluate my tire choice. I like that the body lift would be cheap, clean and reversible, but again I'm open to suggestions.

Sliders and skids are good, if you're going to be in terrain where you need them, that's your call. If you need sliders then you need a rear bumper, because your departure angle isn't kind. The approach angle is better. I'd add sliders, gas tank skid, rear bumper, IFS skid, front bumper, in that order and as necessary. You might not need any of it, and all of them add weight.

This is good stuff, especially about the rear bumper. I'm with you on not lifting it until it's needed, and I think the skids and sliders will prevent me from doing major damage to the drive train if I get into a spot where the lift would be useful. I like your closing:

Then head out on a couple trips and get a feel for your truck and how you're going to use it before you consider adding thing

The big goal is a Baja weekend sometime in early summer, so I'll need to go out a couple of times to get that feel. I just don't want to be stranded somewhere south of the border with a punctured gas tank or rear diff.
 
My point is, your stock truck is already bomb proof and can take you lots of places. If your concern is to have a road-tripping dirt warrior that can get you in and out of the backcountry in one piece, staying up to date on your maintenance is far more important than mods. If it were me, once my maintenance was baselined, I'd focus on a quality set of AT tires, a well stocked bag of recovery gear and tools, and another bag of just-in-case survival gear for you and your family. Then head out on a couple trips and get a feel for your truck and how you're going to use it before you consider adding things like armor, racks, etc.

Quoting the most important part of KidV's novel :tongue1:

Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance. I know it's not fun stuff, but for what you want, it's going to be the most important. I know this was a one-owner vehicle with relatively low miles--did he keep service records?

I'd like to know what's been done as far as maintenance goes by the previous owner, and what you have done so far for regular maintenance, and then we can go from there.
 
One owner sort of... PO sold the truck to a space cadet that never registered the truck and lost any paperwork she had...

I've just started on the baseline maintenance to get it all sorted. So far I haven't done much, just an oil change and cleaned off the MAF and a careful inspection of the underside for leaks and damage. I'm going to to the diffs, t case, tranny and coolant next. Then I think a brake/clutch flush and bleed is in order. After that, I figure LBJs

What do you think?
 
One owner sort of... PO sold the truck to a space cadet that never registered the truck and lost any paperwork she had...

:doh:

I've just started on the baseline maintenance to get it all sorted. So far I haven't done much, just an oil change and cleaned off the MAF and a careful inspection of the underside for leaks and damage. I'm going to to the diffs, t case, tranny and coolant next. Then I think a brake/clutch flush and bleed is in order. After that, I figure LBJs

What do you think?

Spot on! How's the plugs and wires, and the air filter? Those are cheap things that I like to change out whenever I buy a vehicle just so I know that they're new and I know when they went in.

After you take care of maintenance, I think this would be my list, in order:

Recovery/survival gear/essential spare parts
265/75R16 Duratracs
1" body lift (not really necessary, and I would only do it if you do have rubbing problems, but as you said, it's cheap and if it helps to not rub then you might as well)

And that will probably be right around $1,500 I would imagine.

Edit: If I remember the CL ad correctly, the timing belt and clutch have been recently done, right?
 
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My thoughts with the body lift were that the 265/75s would rub when stuffed all the way up into the wheel well. Maybe that's not the case, or maybe I need to re-evaluate my tire choice. I like that the body lift would be cheap, clean and reversible, but again I'm open to suggestions.

If you know for sure what size you want, get them on the truck first and see what's what. If they only rub slightly at full stuff and you don't articulate that often, I'd just run with it. Other options are a little trimming and pounding or a set of Highlander tall coils to pick the truck up just a hair. A BL wouldn't be the end of the world, but I think there's better ways to get clearance.
 
I have "gotten away with" just a 1" BL, 285/75 duratrac's, sliders, and '99 springs (which you presumably already have).
I've been in plenty of places that this 4runner would not have made it to when it was bone stock (as I bought it).
Frankly, I too would love to have everything on your list but we seem to suffer from the same real world issues. I'm content with the level of preparedness as it is now.
When we go camping where extra gear is necessary I put the Thule box on the roof rack. The one bonus item I do like is a Co2 cylinder for airing up.

IMG_5840_800_zps9b447a23.jpg~original
 
Duratracs first.
Paint the wheel caps.
Sell the brush guard on CL for more spending $$$ on recovery gear, etc.

LBJs should be OEM from Camelback Toyota. I'd also get new LBJ bolts. Part# 90080-10066. Need 8.

The local SD group out there should be more than happy to take ya out on the trails.
 
Kraze

Spot on! How's the plugs and wires, and the air filter? Those are cheap things that I like to change out whenever I buy a vehicle just so I know that they're new and I know when they went in.

Good idea, I'll do the plugs and wires and the air filter just to know.

Edit: If I remember the CL ad correctly, the timing belt and clutch have been recently done, right?

Timing belt was done at about 105k, but I don't know about the clutch. It does not seem to be slipping or chattering right now. Do you have any idea on life expectancy?

KidVermicious,

A BL wouldn't be the end of the world, but I think there's better ways to get clearance.

After hearing what you and others have to say, I'm not going to BL unless I have to, but could you help me out with why a BL is at the bottom of your list? I'd rather not pound pinchwelds and trim the fenders if I don't have to. Are there down sides (besides being a mall crawler way to get bigger tires under it) that I'm not aware of?

Sportscarfan,

I have "gotten away with" just a 1" BL, 285/75 duratrac's, sliders, and '99 springs (which you presumably already have).
I've been in plenty of places that this 4runner would not have made it to when it was bone stock (as I bought it).
Frankly, I too would love to have everything on your list but we seem to suffer from the same real world issues. I'm content with the level of preparedness as it is now.
When we go camping where extra gear is necessary I put the Thule box on the roof rack. The one bonus item I do like is a Co2 cylinder for airing up.

Good to know for sure. I do have the 99 springs, at least in the front by the color codes. I have not verified the backs, but she seems pretty level so I assume so. I'm glad to hear there are others out there that suffer from reality-itis.

LittleCaesar,

I'll definitely get new bolts along with the OEM LBJs. Good tip. And that brush guard is not going to be backyard decoration, along with those tube steps.
 
I didn't notice that you had the Highlander. I bet you'll fit 265s just like you sit.

After hearing what you and others have to say, I'm not going to BL unless I have to, but could you help me out with why a BL is at the bottom of your list? I'd rather not pound pinchwelds and trim the fenders if I don't have to. Are there down sides (besides being a mall crawler way to get bigger tires under it) that I'm not aware of?

Increased leverage on the body mounts due to the increased distance between them and the frame leads to increased fatigue to the mounts and bolts. Lots of guys run them with no problem, but cracked body mounts and sheared bolts aren't unknown. A properly installed suspension lift doesn't have those downsides, and has the upside of increasing suspension travel as well as improving tire clearance.

I really think the first thing anybody who plans to wheel should do is walk outside and put a dent in their quarterpanel with a hammer. Just get it over with. It's going to happen anyway, and once it isn't perfect those little things like hammering pinch welds don't seem like nearly such a big deal. :)
 
I really think the first thing anybody who plans to wheel should do is walk outside and put a dent in their quarterpanel with a hammer. Just get it over with. It's going to happen anyway, and once it isn't perfect those little things like hammering pinch welds don't seem like nearly such a big deal. :)

I was totally with everything you said in this thread until this point haha. I like the idea behind it that no rig is perfect but you won't find me bashing my quarter panels on purpose! You are right that dents happen though. Ive had a few dings and dents and got the major ones fixed because I don't use mine just for wheeling.

The way I see it the OP is already ahead of me with a 5 speed and E locker. I wouldn't do a body lift because for what its worth it doesn't really do much other than look cool when your rig is sitting still. go with 265/75s (they should fit just fine with stock wheels and 99 springs) and test the waters there. Tires will make a world of difference especially going from rugged trails to duratracs like i did.
 
Oh aesthetics are nice, but certainly not at the top of my list. If you check out the original pic there's a good dent in the front bumper and the PO fixed some of the oxidation with black spay paint.

My hesitation with taking a sledge to the pinch welds is more just a hang up of mine than an aesthetic issue. It's just not how I prefer to do things, but I totally understand the reasons behind it. What about grinding out a section and welding in a plate cut to fit?

The whole reason for the BL was to ensure that the tires wouldn't rub with full articulation. A suspension lift by itself won't let you run any bigger tires at the bump stops than stock, at least that's how I understand it.
 
Timing belt was done at about 105k, but I don't know about the clutch. It does not seem to be slipping or chattering right now. Do you have any idea on life expectancy?

If the clutch feels fine, I wouldn't worry about it. They last quite a while if they're not abused. I just thought I remembered reading in the ad that it had recently been replaced, but who knows what I'm thinking of lol.

I really think the first thing anybody who plans to wheel should do is walk outside and put a dent in their quarterpanel with a hammer. Just get it over with. It's going to happen anyway, and once it isn't perfect those little things like hammering pinch welds don't seem like nearly such a big deal. :)

As ridiculous as this sounds, I'm almost in agreement haha.
 
I have "gotten away with" just a 1" BL, 285/75 duratrac's, sliders, and '99 springs (which you presumably already have).
I've been in plenty of places that this 4runner would not have made it to when it was bone stock (as I bought it).
Frankly, I too would love to have everything on your list but we seem to suffer from the same real world issues. I'm content with the level of preparedness as it is now.
When we go camping where extra gear is necessary I put the Thule box on the roof rack. The one bonus item I do like is a Co2 cylinder for airing up.

IMG_5840_800_zps9b447a23.jpg~original

I like it. No more stuff than what you need, and that's what I have tried to do with mine as well. I love doing a tough obstacle in a truck that otherwise looks stock with larger tires. The factory e-locker makes it such a good out-of-the-box wheeler.
 

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