MRpink's Build Thread
- Thread starter MRpink
- Start date
Ausumm
New member
Got my FJ wheels and BFG KO2 265/70/17 Load Range C (40 psi) mounted and road force balanced,
I do love them there wheels.
I am hoping for something similar (round openings) when I get the chance.
[MENTION=153539]MRpink[/MENTION] - thanks for this write up and info - it's exactly what I've been looking for.
Any update on the overall lift figures/settling of the install? Also interested to hear about the potential swaybar issue.
The front shocks are dead on my new V8 4Runner and am looking to replace with a new all round set up ASAP.
Wasn't really after more than 2ish" lift tbh.
Love the look of your truck - mine is black with the new Trail wheels, so will be quite similar.
J
Any update on the overall lift figures/settling of the install? Also interested to hear about the potential swaybar issue.
The front shocks are dead on my new V8 4Runner and am looking to replace with a new all round set up ASAP.
Wasn't really after more than 2ish" lift tbh.
Love the look of your truck - mine is black with the new Trail wheels, so will be quite similar.
J
MRpink
Member
Thanks and sorry for the late reply! I haven't been on much, having too much fun driving. :lookout:
I checked yesterday, it's been 7 months and 8,000 miles since the install and the numbers are the same as day 1.
(measurements on the top row are fender to hub and bottom are fender to ground)
I don't have any swaybar contact/rubbing issues. Just make sure the end of the spring is oriented/clocked like the factory service manual suggests.
:tea:
I checked yesterday, it's been 7 months and 8,000 miles since the install and the numbers are the same as day 1.
(measurements on the top row are fender to hub and bottom are fender to ground)
I don't have any swaybar contact/rubbing issues. Just make sure the end of the spring is oriented/clocked like the factory service manual suggests.
:tea:
HCWatson997
New member
Not yet, but it hasn't been a month yet. I'll take new measurements after some more time.
1) Toytec’s 2.5 and Wheeler’s T1 springs are both made by Eibach. From the information I could find online, I believe they’re the same or very similar. With that said, I don’t think Toytech/Eibach 2.5 front and T12 rear will be nose high. My measurements are below, but with my T1 and T12 combo, my rear was 1.5” – 1.75” higher compared to the front. So even if the Toytec spring is slightly taller compared to the T1, I think the T12 rear will still be taller overall.
About the rear springs, Wheeler’s T12 is relatively new, but they’re just rebranded SAW 1.5, which have been around for a while. Again, they’re also made by Eibach and everyone reported higher than advertised lifts with them, so I think T12 will give you very similar (if not the same) amount of lift as the Toytec 2.0 superflex.
Basically, I think any combination of Toytec/Wheeler/Eibach front and rear springs will give you the appropriate rake and same spring rates. Ultimately, I went with Wheeler’s over Toytec because I wanted black.
2) As for my actual lift, most people (including myself) report higher than advertised lifts because they’re replacing older sagging suspension. Below is my before (stock 18" wheels and tires) and after (17" FJ wheels and KO2) measurements.
My net gain was 3.25” - 4” front and 2.5” - 3” rear.
3) Just my personal opinion but I think the stock tire size is too small for that much lift. BFG KO2 in 265/70/17 looks good though! Here’s a comparison between stock --> 5100/T1/T12 --> FJ/KO2.
Think you’ve convinced me to most likely go T1/T12 in the spring. Just what I was looking for with around 1” front and 2” all around from where I am now:first:
Edit: how much did you get the wheels for?
MRpink
Member
Glad I could help, I know it was hard for me to decide on a setup.
I picked up the FJ wheels locally on craigslist for $280. I still need to find a 5th one for the spare though.
watson6505
New member
Awesome Build
I keep going back and forth between the T1/T12 setup and OME/Toytec. The understated lifts is what is scaring me, but the real results seem to net more lift. Here is my question, noting the clearance you have with your 265/70/17 (31.6/10.7) do you think there is any chance of fitting in the next size up KO2 275/70/17 (32.2/10.9) without significant issue?
I guess you are talking .3" all the way around the height and .1" on both sides of the width.
I am running stock 2006 17" wheels on a V6 with desire to eventually go with black TRDs.
I have no clue if the Load C vs Load E will have much of a fitment impact, but I like a slightly fuller wheel well.
Thanks in advance
PS - Is it worth paying $100 to have the springs pre-assembled with the 5100s??
I keep going back and forth between the T1/T12 setup and OME/Toytec. The understated lifts is what is scaring me, but the real results seem to net more lift. Here is my question, noting the clearance you have with your 265/70/17 (31.6/10.7) do you think there is any chance of fitting in the next size up KO2 275/70/17 (32.2/10.9) without significant issue?
I guess you are talking .3" all the way around the height and .1" on both sides of the width.
I am running stock 2006 17" wheels on a V6 with desire to eventually go with black TRDs.
I have no clue if the Load C vs Load E will have much of a fitment impact, but I like a slightly fuller wheel well.
Thanks in advance
PS - Is it worth paying $100 to have the springs pre-assembled with the 5100s??
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SeanRyan5P
New member
Has anybody ran this on a 5th Gen and NEEDED a new UCA ?? Would really like to do this without UCA upgrade... ive been using this forum ALOT btw and this is my first post
I'd recommend Load C, they are much lighter and do the job just fine. There is no difference in size between the two. I did however feel a BIG difference going from Load E BFG KO2's down to Load C Duratrac's on my Tacoma.
If you do not have air tools, impacts, spring compressors, and want to save 30 min to 1 hour of your lift... Yes.
If you have the tools and the time, then no.
MRpink
Member
Not much new to report, but thought I'd share some updates and pics from my recent trip.
-It's been about 1 year and 3 months since I installed the suspension (~15K miles) and no change or sag in lift.
-Rotating the KO2 tires every 6K and they're wearing evenly all around.
-Tried changing the differential fluids and broke a solid 10mm hex, so going to try the chisel and hammer method to break it loose.
Officially no longer a mall crawler. I was scared at first, but it turned into one of my favorite experiences and the beginning of an expensive new hobby...
-It's been about 1 year and 3 months since I installed the suspension (~15K miles) and no change or sag in lift.
-Rotating the KO2 tires every 6K and they're wearing evenly all around.
-Tried changing the differential fluids and broke a solid 10mm hex, so going to try the chisel and hammer method to break it loose.
Officially no longer a mall crawler. I was scared at first, but it turned into one of my favorite experiences and the beginning of an expensive new hobby...
I wasn't planning on making a thread but the forum has been a huge help to me so hopefully others will find something here useful. Now onto the truck! My current goal is OEM+, this is my daily driver so modifications must be reliable and low maintenance. She'll be on pavement most the time but will see snow and dirt when I'm feeling adventurous.
Current parts:
-OEM All Weather Floor Mats
-Weathertech Cargo Liner (42230)
-Yorkim LEDs
-Bilstein 5100 (set to 0")
-Wheeler's T1 and T12 springs
-Wheeler's 1/4" spacer (front left to correct driver side lean)
-KYB Strut Mount Plates (SM5640)
-FJ wheels ('10-'13)
-BFG KO2 265/70/17 Load Range C (set to 40 psi)
-Hella Optilux 9006 Yellow Bulbs
Parts to be installed:
-Blue Ridge Overland Visor Organizer
Stock with 155K miles and 10 year old suspension.
Current.
I am literally doing almost the same setup as you. Question: You didn't need to go to aftermarket UCA's? I have a 2005 Sport and considered setting the shocks at .85, but then that would merit some UCA's. Your alignment came out great and you have no issues in regards to tires wearing or parts going quicker?
MRpink
Member
Almost 2 years and 22K miles with zero issues. With the stock UCA, the alignment shop was able to get the camber and toe within factory specs so no uneven wear or anything. :thumb:
MRpink
Member
Corral Hollow Trail near Bear Valley.
That's awesome. I went ahead and bought some new UCA's today anyways since I considered taking the 5100's up to .85, which would set the front closer to 2.5-2.75" I believe. I got the Wheelers T1 and T12 like you, with the 5100's. Can't decide if later I was going to do 255/75r17's or 265/70r17's like yourself.
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MRpink
Member
The before and after measurements are in post #3, but I gained 4” in front and 2.5” in the rear. Keep in mind those numbers are based on my 10 year old (sagging) factory suspension.
I believe the T1 was designed for 0” position, but I would contact wheeler’s directly to inquire about the 0.85 setting.
As for tires, I wanted 255/75 but ultimately went with 265/70 because you can still fit that in the spare tire location.
Yeah I actually reached out to them and they told me the .85 was the highest setting on the 5100's. I'm getting some heavy vibrations coming to a quick stop on my current suspension, so that kind of prompted me to just go ahead and buy some new UCA's as well. My numbers should be similar to yours. My Runner has 226K on the odometer so it's super worn out and droopy as well.
All the parts should be coming in within the next two weeks and the install before the New Year. Tires I'll be snatching up sometime next year in the Spring. My Grabbers still have maybe 20K miles on them.
