Muther efn lower rear shock mount!

What about a puller? Something that is used for ball joints or pulleys.
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Duuuude.
SUCH A BÍTCH.
Same thing with my 5100 after only 2 months! I believe I used a pitman arm puller to finally get it off. Anti-seized the fck outta it when it went back on. I was so frustrated at that damn thing.

What about a puller? Something that is used for ball joints or pulleys.

Your both on to something here. It won't be nearly as cool as my funkness device but it'll be safer and it'll work. lol
 
Soak it in PB Blaster for a few days?

Weird, both of the axles I got, the shock mount came off nice 'n easy. Bolt came out with a ratchet and the rest of the shit slid off.
 
I have friends in Mass, Conn, who wrench on their cars. One of the first big tool items is an air hammer. The little Oxy/ace kits also come in handy for them.

Need to soak it in Kroil. Any acetone for a 50/50 mix with ATF?
 
We must have posted that at almost the same time too. Funny stuff.

Haha nice [emoji1598]
I don't think the puller alone worked, because it wanted to pull the eye off the bushing. I think I also hammered screwdrivers into the crack between the sleeve and the mount itself. It was seriously ridiculously frustrating. Hope that helps some.
 
Try using a socket and hammer to knock the shock loose on the bushing. Then twist the shock while prying off the axle tube to bring it forward off the bushing. Save the shock but not the bushing.

You can use a block of wood, 2x4 or similar. Then a nice 2-3' pry bar against that on the back of the shock body. You can control angular forces by controlling the shock at the end of the shaft.
 
When I read this my first thoughts were a crowbar and then a puller. Looks like everyone else has this thread under control. I have a 6 ft pry bar in case things get real serious. In case none of this works, block the axle up so the shock faces down and put some wood block around the shock eye to protect it and then give it a good whack with a good sized sledge. You can generate a lot of torque with a puller and crowbar but its the initial shock that will really break things loose. Tried and true third world method. As said I always clean up and then anti seize that part as it is always rusty even on the cleanest vehicle
 
All good suggestions but I still think heating up the post will allow him to slide it off and just have to replace the bushing.

The rubber is seized on to the post, when you nuke it with some heat, it should melt and be able to slide off.

I believe this is the safest and least painful method. Nuke it!
 
I had the same issue when I ditched my XREAS. I ended up cutting it off, but I wasn't trying to save the shock.

It suuuuuucked!
 
This does suck scramble. I've cut 4 rear shocks on on two different rigs. Again I was not saving them. Luckily mine just popped out on my last removal. Good luck!!
 
Duuuude.
SUCH A BÍTCH.
Same thing with my 5100 after only 2 months! I believe I used a pitman arm puller to finally get it off. Anti-seized the fck outta it when it went back on. I was so frustrated at that damn thing.

man i remember when you had this problem

so when i installed my rears i globed on anti seize to make sure i dont have this problem hope it helps for the future
 
I would definitely second the puller idea. I can't even imagine how the rubber bushing is THAT stuck onto the stud though. This is blowing my mind.

How about some heat that's NOT fire? A heat gun, for instance, just to really soften things up? Mine probably has the ability to eventually make rubber like a bushing smolder, but I'm sure there's a pretty wide grey area between warm and on-fire that would make it want to shimmy off of there.
 
Well, I guess I should start bulking up on my protein and supps now. I'm planning on replacing my 4600s this weekend with 5100s.

Just spit balling here, but would it help if you use a jack or something to raise the axle to relieve some of the stress to remove it?
 
This does seem like an odd problem. :confused: Do you have the outer washer off so the bushing is revealed?

If so, use a cordless drill and a 1/4" drill bit and drill into the side of the bushings. Do that several times and see if that helps. If not, then shoot it with WD-40.

Obviously, make sure you can get replacement bushings before doing the above.
 
Thats for all of the replies, it's not the rubber thats stuck to the post it's the metal sleeve inside of the bushing that's seized to the post.

I forgot to mention that I did use one of my impact sockets & hammer to try to shock it free. Nothing. It sat for a week in PB Blaster & another week in WD40 now it will be sitting until Sat morning with more WD40.

I'll see if I can borrow a puller from someone. Thanks again!

It looks like this. And yes! I will be sanding & painting the post with Eastwood rust converter & using Anti seize on re-install!
 

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Support the impact socket with a piece of wood and give it a real whack with a sledge or really BFH with two hands. All you need to do is break it loose and it will come right off. I did this last week with a pulley i needed to get off a tile saw motor. No amount of heat, puller or hammer would budge it. As a last resort I put an oversize nut on the pulley and gave it a real whack with a sledge and it popped loose and then came off easily with the puller
 
Buy a decent 2 or 3 jaw puller, 5 ton or more, mix some acetone and ATF, pour into sleeve, put the shock bolt back in to the housing, then tighten up on the puller very tight and walk away. If the 50/50 mix works it will come free with time.

This works as long as you can get a bite on the back of the shock mount.
 
Hey fellow T4R's. I'm trying to do a build on a 95 I just picked up for $850(everything good, blown motor, go figure, lol). I'm new to Toyota offroading and I want to start w/finding out OE specific specs not that general crap. Any ideas?
 

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