Muther efn lower rear shock mount!

[Scramble]

Buy a decent 2 or 3 jaw puller, 5 ton or more, mix some acetone and ATF, pour into sleeve, put the shock bolt back in to the housing, then tighten up on the puller very tight and walk away. If the 50/50 mix works it will come free with time.

This works as long as you can get a bite on the back of the shock mount.

I bought a 3 jaw gear puller set. 3", 4" & 6". The 4" fit perfect & pulled the shock right off the bushing! LOL The metal sleeve is still seized to the mount. No biggie really since I'm not using that axle housing again unless I get another T4R that needs it or decide to sell it.

I'm looking at replacement bushings & I dont see any with the metal sleeve in the center? The ones from Daystar & Energy are Poly only with no sleeve? I guess I should replace both so they are the same on both sides?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I bought a 3 jaw gear puller set. 3", 4" & 6". The 4" fit perfect & pulled the shock right off the bushing! LOL The metal sleeve is still seized to the mount. No biggie really since I'm not using that axle housing again unless I get another T4R that needs it or decide to sell it.

I'm looking at replacement bushings & I dont see any with the metal sleeve in the center? The ones from Daystar & Energy are Poly only with no sleeve? I guess I should replace both so they are the same on both sides?

I remember looking all over for an OEM style bushing(with the sleeve) when I installed my 5100 Tundra shocks and couldn't find ones anywhere. I use the daystar poly bushing and so far so good. Definitely want to replace both sides.

 

[spoonsports86]

I bought a 3 jaw gear puller set. 3", 4" & 6". The 4" fit perfect & pulled the shock right off the bushing! LOL The metal sleeve is still seized to the mount. No biggie really since I'm not using that axle housing again unless I get another T4R that needs it or decide to sell it.

I'm looking at replacement bushings & I dont see any with the metal sleeve in the center? The ones from Daystar & Energy are Poly only with no sleeve? I guess I should replace both so they are the same on both sides?

hmm when i installed my new 5100's on the rear neither had the metal sleeve.

nor did my old shocks. old ones came off with just the bushing no sleeve attached. installed the new 5100 with out a sleeve too. in the pic you posted that looks like the factory part thats threaded for the bolt lol

 

[Scramble]

hmm when i installed my new 5100's on the rear neither had the metal sleeve.

nor did my old shocks. old ones came off with just the bushing no sleeve attached. installed the new 5100 with out a sleeve too. in the pic you posted that looks like the factory part thats threaded for the bolt lol

In the pic the sleeve is on the outside of the threaded mount. See how the mount is recessed in the sleeve a little?

 

[Scramble]

hmm when i installed my new 5100's on the rear neither had the metal sleeve.

nor did my old shocks. old ones came off with just the bushing no sleeve attached. installed the new 5100 with out a sleeve too. in the pic you posted that looks like the factory part thats threaded for the bolt lol

Mine had the metal sleeve in the center like these in the pic.

I wonder if my ride will be smoother by going to an all poly bushing?

 

[T4R2014]

Mine had the metal sleeve in the center like these in the pic.

I wonder if my ride will be smoother by going to an all poly bushing?

Poly is stiffer and you will need to worry about squeaks. There's better things to worry about so avoid.

Try heating the sleeve with a torch and then go at it with a pry bar or puller.

 

[thegipper]

I was going to say, if my memory served me right, I don't have metal sleeves on my lower shocks.

If you need to get the metal sleeve off, nuke it with a torch and try hitting it from the backside with a punch and hammer, it should come off.

 

[JoeT4R]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I think this is important to share.

I had 5100's in the rear of my truck for over 8 years. Mine had the metal sleeve, just like OP did. Encountered the same problem when removing DS, the metal sleeve and bushing were stuck on the stud. Used heat, hammer, pry tool, crow bar, screwdriver with hammer, and ultimately had to burn the rubber bushing off with a torch and used an angle grinder to cut the metal sleeve.

In the process of doing so, we cut the metal stud coming from the diff a good bit. I was able to remount my new shocks, bushings and thread the bolt just fine. Out of an abundance of caution, given the stud now has a decent cut in it, I added red loctite to the bolt when reinstalling it.

Ever since, the ride quality is substantially better, but I am having some rear end noise when going over bumps/holes in the road. Top nuts are nice and tight so I am going to attribute the noise to space that was cut on the stud. Pictures of it are all in my build thread.

My point is, I couldn't find a perfect way of removing the metal sleeve from the stud. Ideally, if I could get another stud welded on and cut off the current stud, I'd love to do that. But I don't really have access to those resources to have it done. Just wanted to share my experience with the same exact issue.