My 3.4 timing belt thread

[Previologist]

It's almost time. Ok maybe it's past time, but that's what 190K will do.

I will order OEM parts this week. I have some questions in advance

Do I need (or want) the vehicle on stands or ramps, or is it possible (or desirable) to do it with wheels on the ground? My Haynes manual says to raise the front end partway through but I usually ignore my Haynes manual and see absolutely no reason to raise it

i can't afford a fancy tension gauge. Are their inexpensive substitutes? I see cheap things like this claiming to function as timing belt tension gauge

https://www.amazon.com/Tension-Detection-Measurement-Professional-Accessory/dp/B08T9SZKHR/ but I am skeptical...

I have the Toyota cam pulley tool and I will try to make a harmonic balancer tool rather than buy one. I may buy the Lisle seal remover, I'm not sure but my HF seal tool may be too big for those seals.

Other than that I think I have the tools I need.

 

[gh25_]

It's almost time. Ok maybe it's past time, but that's what 190K will do.

I will order OEM parts this week. I have some questions in advance

Do I need (or want) the vehicle on stands or ramps, or is it possible (or desirable) to do it with wheels on the ground? My Haynes manual says to raise the front end partway through but I usually ignore my Haynes manual and see absolutely no reason to raise it

i can't afford a fancy tension gauge. Are their inexpensive substitutes? I see cheap things like this claiming to function as timing belt tension gauge

Amazon.com but I am skeptical...

I have the Toyota cam pulley tool and I will try to make a harmonic balancer tool rather than buy one. I may buy the Lisle seal remover, I'm not sure but my HF seal tool may be too big for those seals.

Other than that I think I have the tools I need.

Having done this job not too long ago I can probably give some useful information haha. I did this last year in October. For lifting the vehicle there is no need at all to be lifting it. Not sure why Haynes would say you need to. Everything your taking off and messing with is all attached to the engine so it would be pointless. Lifting it would make it harder actually since you have to lean over more. Do it with it on the ground for sure. For the belt tensioner there is no need to purchase one either. The tension for the timing belt is pre-set by the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt. Once you pull the pin your good. The only part you would need the tension gauge for is the accessory belts for the AC, Alternator, and PWR steering. But it's not crucial that you use the gauge. You can use any ruler and you measure the amount of deflection (push up and down on it) between the pulley that tensions the belt and the crank pulley. I believe the measurement was like 1/4" to 1/2" of deflection is good, if you are putting on new belts. Definitely get the lisle seal puller it will make your life a lot easier when getting those seals out. Any other seal puller will damage things and frustrate you. I had to jerry rig my own crank pulley holder tool because at the time I didn't buy the tool. Just buy the tool. It will make your life easier as well haha. I used the 2x4 with the two bolts in it and it worked but I couldn't find the bolt size i needed in a proper grade. They started to distort and bend. The harmonic damper holder it is cheap on amazon only about 35 bucks. I am assuming you've never done the job before from what it sounds like. Follow [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] video on the timing belt for the 5VZ as well and you will have a successful job for sure. Hope this helped.

Crank / harmonic damper holder tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunluway-4Runner-Harmonic-Holding-Crankshaft/dp/B07NRGRYM1/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2XQLIKAC4U3CW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.RY1XbrvasPRFaiLrtJ-tIKAcnxW_50t60MR_uC0di-g5Rjr-4heotUAnEU9c4Wd7xSoIv1y0YODoVNIbCfE84Zs1b030QSXyOKHtjZGSITFw6RvYJiumJU6S3wAx-96qek-iO5XcyfeW_j0zgMCmcnKk2cqzr1wwUUr4PUVfmThDHpFfTnbWX-qKyImjPQcZxvEq9KOXmwvFZMUwCCxX2SuXufLHgH7W3x7ZpLdC_6E.eHWBBgsfF20nagj4KsyMqvBQdVSN2gTvFfDvYHj4Y0g&dib_tag=se&keywords=3.4l+toyota+crankpulley+holder&qid=1719197241&sprefix=3.4l+toyota+crankpulley+holde%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-1

Timmy's 5vz timing belt video:

Part 1:

https://youtu.be/vHC46ypHxWc?si=-5EjIjAt8PT2a99j

Part 2:

https://youtu.be/mErd7xoBS9I?si=QmHC6ehRX58I3evI

 

[Endlessblockades]

Thanks guys - I'll be watching, too.

 

[Previologist]

Having done this job not too long ago I can probably give some useful information haha. I did this last year in October. For lifting the vehicle there is no need at all to be lifting it. Not sure why Haynes would say you need to. Everything your taking off and messing with is all attached to the engine so it would be pointless. Lifting it would make it harder actually since you have to lean over more. Do it with it on the ground for sure. For the belt tensioner there is no need to purchase one either. The tension for the timing belt is pre-set by the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt. Once you pull the pin your good. The only part you would need the tension gauge for is the accessory belts for the AC, Alternator, and PWR steering. But it's not crucial that you use the gauge. You can use any ruler and you measure the amount of deflection (push up and down on it) between the pulley that tensions the belt and the crank pulley. I believe the measurement was like 1/4" to 1/2" of deflection is good, if you are putting on new belts. Definitely get the lisle seal puller it will make your life a lot easier when getting those seals out. Any other seal puller will damage things and frustrate you. I had to jerry rig my own crank pulley holder tool because at the time I didn't buy the tool. Just buy the tool. It will make your life easier as well haha. I used the 2x4 with the two bolts in it and it worked but I couldn't find the bolt size i needed in a proper grade. They started to distort and bend. The harmonic damper holder it is cheap on amazon only about 35 bucks. I am assuming you've never done the job before from what it sounds like. Follow [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] video on the timing belt for the 5VZ as well and you will have a successful job for sure. Hope this helped.

Crank / harmonic damper holder tool:

Amazon.com

Timmy's 5vz timing belt video:

Part 1:

https://youtu.be/vHC46ypHxWc?si=-5EjIjAt8PT2a99j

Part 2:

https://youtu.be/mErd7xoBS9I?si=QmHC6ehRX58I3evI

Yep I am in the process of watching Tim's videos, and saw the 2x4 method for the harmonic damper. i was also looking at that puller on Amazon, and most people liked it but one of the reviews had me hesitant because they said it ruined their damper. Not sure what to think of that one, but I still have time to consider my options.

The one I had been looking at before was twice that price, and I'm not dropping 75 bucks for something I may never use again.

 

[2TH4IST]

As for the harmonic balancer tool, just make one out of some steel bar. Both work good. I have both, I prefer the home made one. It's easier to use, uses shorter bolts and was under 10 bucks when I made it. And you can set it against the frame to torque the bolt. Here is a tip, clean the bolt holes before you try to thread them into the balancer.

Don't life the 4runner, doesn't need to be off the ground. Take the skid plates off.

 

[gh25_]

Yep I am in the process of watching Tim's videos, and saw the 2x4 method for the harmonic damper. i was also looking at that puller on Amazon, and most people liked it but one of the reviews had me hesitant because they said it ruined their damper. Not sure what to think of that one, but I still have time to consider my options.

The one I had been looking at before was twice that price, and I'm not dropping 75 bucks for something I may never use again.

The harmonic damper tool works great and doesn't ruin the damper. Those people who said that in the review probably let it get crooked or move some when they were cranking it to get it loose or tighten the crank bolt. You have to make sure it stays seated evenly. I can see how it would damage it if you used it while it was crooked. A handful of months ago when I put on my LCE lightweight crankshaft pulley I bought and used that same tool to get the OEM crank pulley off and it worked great and didn't damage it. If you have a extra set of hands just to make sure it stays straight on then you'll be fine i noticed when you tug on it that one of the legs wanted to walk out a little. But that's all. the 2x4 method is just fine but I had a harder time with space with it. A breaker bar and the holder has more freedom for where to put the bar. I believe there is some power steering lines that can get in the way with the 2x4.

 

[3bears]

If its been a few years or has green yuck in it, I will flush the system first with clear water. I also pull the radiator to give me more room to work

 

[Previologist]

It's been more than a few years, it's been a lot of years. Definitely gonna change out the coolant!! (and all other fluids sometime this summer). Will remove the radiator because otherwise I WILL damage it, and might even replace it if they aren't expensive.

 

[gh25_]

It's been more than a few years, it's been a lot of years. Definitely gonna change out the coolant!! (and all other fluids sometime this summer). Will remove the radiator because otherwise I WILL damage it, and might even replace it if they aren't expensive.

I was going to say that you could get a new OEM Denso radiator on rock auto and I remember mine was like 140 I think. But I just checked rock auto and for some reason they aren't selling the Denso radiator on there for our trucks anymore. If you have the funds to definitely buy a new radiator since you gotta take it out and the timing belt job will be a great time to refresh your coolant / flush it. A lot will come out from the water pump when you take it out and of course you'll be draining the whole radiator. I would say the next best option is to buy the Koyo rad radiator from Rockauto. Still a quality brand but it's a little cheaper at 92 dollars.

 

[Endlessblockades]

I assume you're going to do the water pump but what about any seals?

 

[Ibrad]

I suggest replace everything you can while into it. Thermostat included installed in the correct orientation. As for the seals I didn't use a seal puller. A small stout screwdriver tucked under the lip is all mine needed to free up. Pay special attention when installing them as some have had the lip of the seal curl and create a leak. Be careful not to nick any of the sealing surfaces but that's with any tool you use. If you can squeeze the top of the radiator and hear it crack it's time for a new one. Somewhere on here talked about the color of the plastic being a sign of it's the original radiator or not. I'd suggest making a crank pulley holder. I made mine from a 4 foot by 1/4 inch thick steel bar. I used two bolts but only one went inside the crank pulley hole and the other rested on the outside of the pulley. Rested the bar on the inside fender with a rag for protection. Don't forget to purchase a new crank bolt at your local yota dealership. It's not expensive. Also they up'd the torque spec on that bolt. Torque spec was 184 and now it's 217 foot pounds due to loosening and falling out and ruining the crank. Also if your that deep and can afford the down time do your valve cover gaskets while your wrenching. Be careful when retorquing the valve cover bolts as they can possibly crack your valve covers. Step up torque in increments of 10 or less instead of trying to torque in 2 or 3 passes. Don't lift the rig, that's extra steps and gives no better access to anything. This site and the information contained will help with anything you need to know. The only wrong question is no question at all.

 

[3bears]

I was going to say that you could get a new OEM Denso radiator on rock auto and I remember mine was like 140 I think. But I just checked rock auto and for some reason they aren't selling the Denso radiator on there for our trucks anymore. If you have the funds to definitely buy a new radiator since you gotta take it out and the timing belt job will be a great time to refresh your coolant / flush it. A lot will come out from the water pump when you take it out and of course you'll be draining the whole radiator. I would say the next best option is to buy the Koyo rad radiator from Rockauto. Still a quality brand but it's a little cheaper at 92 dollars.

agree if belt is that old, radiator prob is too, and you dont want that to fail.

I wonder if rock auto , scamazon and others have quit selling the denso because from my experience Denso did a rotten job protecting/packaging them and they would often arrive damaged, even broken

 

[Previologist]

I assume you're going to do the water pump but what about any seals?

I plan to buy everything. But with my current oil leak still undiagnosed and possibly coming from the rear main seal that i just replaced, I'm a little concerned about replacing seals that may or may not be leaking. I'll wait till I see them to decide. The water pump will be replaced.

 

[Ibrad]

I just checked rock auto and the denso radiator is available for $121.99. I ordered one back in February and it arrived in the denso box unharmed. Maybe I got lucky maybe they fixed there shipping provider idk. It sucks to put seals in stuff and they still leak. As I said before sometimes the seal lip turns around and other times the sealing surface may be messed up. Since you already did the rear main it will be quicker if you tear back into this round lol. With almost 200 thousand miles on that belt rest assured all the seals are in just as bad of shape as your belt is. Please replace them. A lot easier to replace seals in the front than in the back. With your leak at the rear of the engine you may get a cheap camera snake that hooks to your phone and have a look around your engine. Maybe even take the starter out and look in there and see if you can tell where your leak is coming from.

 

[Previologist]

I just checked rock auto and the denso radiator is available for $121.99. I ordered one back in February and it arrived in the denso box unharmed. Maybe I got lucky maybe they fixed there shipping provider idk. It sucks to put seals in stuff and they still leak. As I said before sometimes the seal lip turns around and other times the sealing surface may be messed up. Since you already did the rear main it will be quicker if you tear back into this round lol. With almost 200 thousand miles on that belt rest assured all the seals are in just as bad of shape as your belt is. Please replace them. A lot easier to replace seals in the front than in the back. With your leak at the rear of the engine you may get a cheap camera snake that hooks to your phone and have a look around your engine. Maybe even take the starter out and look in there and see if you can tell where your leak is coming from.

The radiator will depend on money. I'd like to replace it, but i am facing so much time and expense fixing my vehicles (both 97's) that I will just have to wait and see. I'm living paycheck to paycheck and my paychecks aren't big.

I should know better than to trust my memory, I checked the receipts from the original owner and its only been 150K since the last timing belt change, and they did change the crank and cam seals too. I know, that's still a lot lol. I am buying them and my intent is to change them anyway. I put dye in the engine but so far it has not helped me locate the leak, and there may be more than one. There is oil forming drips at both the bottom of the bell housing and the oil pan, but its really not dripping on the ground much. It's a mystery and after reading some of the mystery oil leak threads here that go for years without resolution lol it may remain a mystery. I'm not taking the GD tranny off again anytime soon, so if its the rms its gonna leak for a while.

 

[2TH4IST]

Regarding your oil leak, have to checked the half moon plugs? Or the cam plug seals on the back of the heads? Not to many places for a leak.

Vc gaskets
Cam plugs
Cam seal
Half moons
Head gasket
Galley plugs (very uncommon)
Oil cooler/oil filter
Rear main
Crank seal
Oil pan
Drain plug
Or worse of all, cracked block.

 

[Previologist]

Regarding your oil leak, have to checked the half moon plugs? Or the cam plug seals on the back of the heads? Not to many places for a leak.

Vc gaskets
Cam plugs
Cam seal
Half moons
Head gasket
Galley plugs (very uncommon)
Oil cooler/oil filter
Rear main
Crank seal
Oil pan
Drain plug
Or worse of all, cracked block.

Not too many. Lol.

I don't think its the oil cooler or head gasket or galley plugs or crank/cam seals from what I can see. Everything else is in play, and like I said it could be more than 1 leak. There's oil everywhere really, but has been for a while. Valve cover job is next on the list. I know they were leaking, before I tightened all the external bolts I could easily see. I presume there's more I didn't get to so they probably still are, but it no longer smokes.

 

[2TH4IST]

Yeah lol sorry that was quite a bit.

I can say to spend a few bucks at a car wash and degrease the engine top and bottom. That will help you pin point the leaks after you do any future work you have planned. I had to do that on my friend's tacoma when I did their vc gaskets and timing belt stuff. That oil leak was going in for so long it killed the starter.

 

[3bears]

somewhat related
i am member of tacoma and tundra forums as well
the other day a guy posted that when he does timing belts, he slices it down the center and removes half the belt. he says this holds everything in time and in correct place. then when he slides new belt partially on, he cuts the old belt off.

I guess this would work if all your doing is changing the belt and not the rollers tensioners, water pump etc
but I thought it was a slick idea for that purpose for someone just doing the belt

 

[phattyduck]

Not too many. Lol.

I don't think its the oil cooler or head gasket or galley plugs or crank/cam seals from what I can see. Everything else is in play, and like I said it could be more than 1 leak. There's oil everywhere really, but has been for a while. Valve cover job is next on the list. I know they were leaking, before I tightened all the external bolts I could easily see. I presume there's more I didn't get to so they probably still are, but it no longer smokes.

Rear half moons like to leak after this many years, get oil everywhere and confuse mechanics who don't know this platform into thinking it is a rear main seal. Clean up the engine bay as well as you can, do the valve cover gaskets (and re-seal the half moons and plugs), then see what's left.

-Charlie