Ducman
New member
Tools needed:
New Rotors (I used Napa Ultra Premium)
New Pads (I used Toyota PN 04465YZZ1A-TM)
New Caliper Slide Pins (I used Napa ones)
(6) pack of beer (soda will work in a pinch)
(1) large breaker bar for 17mm socket
(1) socket wrench for 17mm socket
(1) 17mm deepwell socket
(1) 15/32 socket and socket wrench
(2) pairs of Nitrile gloves
(1) packet of caliper grease
(1) can of brake cleaner
(1) can of BP Blaster
(1) large hammer
(1) pair of needle nose pliers
(1) large jackstand
(1) bucket or box about half as tall as your wheels.
(1) roll/box of shop towels
(1) medium sized c-clamp
(1) old towel
The actual walkthrough:
Pop the hood.
Pick a side and break loose the wheel lugs.
Jack up the front of the truck until the tire leaves the ground half an inch or so and put a large jackstand securely on the frame.
Remove the lugs and remove the wheel.
Open the garage door (if its not already open), put on your Nitrile gloves and spray some PB Blaster into the lug holes on the rotor. Use more than you think you need. Watch out PB Blaster comes out in a pretty fast stream, you don't want splatter getting in your eyes.
Remove the slide pin retaining clips (on back of the caliper) with your needle nose pliers. Put them in a safe place.
Use your hammer to tap the old slide pins out with the new slide pins. Dont lose the M-shaped spring that is on one end. Leave the old brake pads in there.
Using your 15/32 socket remove the brake line retaining bolt from above the caliper and break the small metal plate loose (this should give you a few additional inches of slack in the line).
Using your 17mm deepwell socket (deepwell so it clears the hardline because socket extensions rob torque and can break) and breaker bar, crank off the (2) large bolts that are holding on the calipers. They are on the backside of the calipers and are inward a bit. BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE HARDLINE WHEN WRENCHING AWAY. These will be tough to break loose, probably impossible without a good sized breaker bar... then switch to your ratchet and back them out about half way or until they start to turn fairly easily.
Crack a beer.
Put your bucket upside down (or use a box) under the caliper and wad up the old towel and put it on top of the box, then remove the caliper bolts. CAREFULLY slide the caliper off the rotor and place it on the box/bucket being careful NOT TO BEND OR STRESS THE BRAKE LINE OR SENSOR LINE.
Under the hood, crack open the brake fluid reservoir(I just let the cap sit on the opening).
Place your C-clamp over the old brake pads and back of the caliper to SLOWLY compress the pistons back into the caliper (cross your fingers they are not frozen). The top of the piston should be about flush with the seal when its all the way in. Repeat the process for the other pair of pistons on the other side of the caliper BEING MINDFUL OF THE HARDLINE.
I forgot to take a picture of this step but I found one on google images that's pretty similar HERE: http://supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Maint/All/BPad/Image17.jpg
Under the hood, tighten the cap on the brake fluid reservoir.
Remove the old brake pads.
Use your brake cleaner to hose down the caliper and get all the crud off.
Crack another beer while you wait for that to evaporate.
Place a small amount of brake lube on the end of the pistons and piston seals as well as the new slide pins.
Put the new outboard brake pad into the caliper (the one without the funny metal tab) and start to put in the new slide pins. Put the M-spring back in the one end and slide the pins in about 3/4 of the way. Put the new inboard brake pad into the caliper (the one with the little metal tab) and put the pins in the rest of the way. Secure the slide pins with the cotter pins.
Remove the old rotor... This thing will likely want to hold on for dear life so you will likely need to really whack the thing. Using your large hammer and striking into the wheel well (towards the engine)... hit the old rotor 3-4 times on one side in the outer portion (last 2-3 inches) and then alternate to the other side of the rotor and give it another good 3-4 hits there (still hitting towards the engine). The idea is you want to break it loose by knocking it crooked. Be careful not to hit yourself, the side of your truck, or anything else in the wheel well. This may take awhile, just keep at it... it will come loose.
When you hear it let loose, crack another beer and celebrate.
Clean off both sides of the new rotor with brake clean and then put the new rotor on. Put 2 or 3 lug nuts on to keep it straight.
Put the caliper back into place and start the 2 large bolts. Once they are both in, tighten them down with the ratcheting wrench. Once they feel tight, switch to the breaker bar and really tighten them down.
Secure the 15/32 brake line retaining bolt.
Remove the 2 or 3 lugs you put on now.
Reinstall the wheel and finger tighten all the lugs. Tighten them down in a criss-cross pattern until they feel snug.
Using your floorjack, raise the truck a hair and then remove the jackstand and put it off to the side. Slowly lower the truck until the wheel is on the ground and the suspension is starting to compress.
Tighten down the lugs in a criss cross pattern.
Lower the truck the rest of the way.
Repeat these steps for the other side.
New Rotors (I used Napa Ultra Premium)
New Pads (I used Toyota PN 04465YZZ1A-TM)
New Caliper Slide Pins (I used Napa ones)
(6) pack of beer (soda will work in a pinch)
(1) large breaker bar for 17mm socket
(1) socket wrench for 17mm socket
(1) 17mm deepwell socket
(1) 15/32 socket and socket wrench
(2) pairs of Nitrile gloves
(1) packet of caliper grease
(1) can of brake cleaner
(1) can of BP Blaster
(1) large hammer
(1) pair of needle nose pliers
(1) large jackstand
(1) bucket or box about half as tall as your wheels.
(1) roll/box of shop towels
(1) medium sized c-clamp
(1) old towel
The actual walkthrough:
Pop the hood.
Pick a side and break loose the wheel lugs.
Jack up the front of the truck until the tire leaves the ground half an inch or so and put a large jackstand securely on the frame.
Remove the lugs and remove the wheel.
Open the garage door (if its not already open), put on your Nitrile gloves and spray some PB Blaster into the lug holes on the rotor. Use more than you think you need. Watch out PB Blaster comes out in a pretty fast stream, you don't want splatter getting in your eyes.
Remove the slide pin retaining clips (on back of the caliper) with your needle nose pliers. Put them in a safe place.
Use your hammer to tap the old slide pins out with the new slide pins. Dont lose the M-shaped spring that is on one end. Leave the old brake pads in there.
Using your 15/32 socket remove the brake line retaining bolt from above the caliper and break the small metal plate loose (this should give you a few additional inches of slack in the line).
Using your 17mm deepwell socket (deepwell so it clears the hardline because socket extensions rob torque and can break) and breaker bar, crank off the (2) large bolts that are holding on the calipers. They are on the backside of the calipers and are inward a bit. BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE HARDLINE WHEN WRENCHING AWAY. These will be tough to break loose, probably impossible without a good sized breaker bar... then switch to your ratchet and back them out about half way or until they start to turn fairly easily.
Crack a beer.
Put your bucket upside down (or use a box) under the caliper and wad up the old towel and put it on top of the box, then remove the caliper bolts. CAREFULLY slide the caliper off the rotor and place it on the box/bucket being careful NOT TO BEND OR STRESS THE BRAKE LINE OR SENSOR LINE.
Under the hood, crack open the brake fluid reservoir(I just let the cap sit on the opening).
Place your C-clamp over the old brake pads and back of the caliper to SLOWLY compress the pistons back into the caliper (cross your fingers they are not frozen). The top of the piston should be about flush with the seal when its all the way in. Repeat the process for the other pair of pistons on the other side of the caliper BEING MINDFUL OF THE HARDLINE.
I forgot to take a picture of this step but I found one on google images that's pretty similar HERE: http://supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Maint/All/BPad/Image17.jpg
Under the hood, tighten the cap on the brake fluid reservoir.
Remove the old brake pads.
Use your brake cleaner to hose down the caliper and get all the crud off.
Crack another beer while you wait for that to evaporate.
Place a small amount of brake lube on the end of the pistons and piston seals as well as the new slide pins.
Put the new outboard brake pad into the caliper (the one without the funny metal tab) and start to put in the new slide pins. Put the M-spring back in the one end and slide the pins in about 3/4 of the way. Put the new inboard brake pad into the caliper (the one with the little metal tab) and put the pins in the rest of the way. Secure the slide pins with the cotter pins.
Remove the old rotor... This thing will likely want to hold on for dear life so you will likely need to really whack the thing. Using your large hammer and striking into the wheel well (towards the engine)... hit the old rotor 3-4 times on one side in the outer portion (last 2-3 inches) and then alternate to the other side of the rotor and give it another good 3-4 hits there (still hitting towards the engine). The idea is you want to break it loose by knocking it crooked. Be careful not to hit yourself, the side of your truck, or anything else in the wheel well. This may take awhile, just keep at it... it will come loose.
When you hear it let loose, crack another beer and celebrate.
Clean off both sides of the new rotor with brake clean and then put the new rotor on. Put 2 or 3 lug nuts on to keep it straight.
Put the caliper back into place and start the 2 large bolts. Once they are both in, tighten them down with the ratcheting wrench. Once they feel tight, switch to the breaker bar and really tighten them down.
Move the bucket or box out of the wheel well and put it out of the way somewhere.
Secure the 15/32 brake line retaining bolt.
Remove the 2 or 3 lugs you put on now.
Reinstall the wheel and finger tighten all the lugs. Tighten them down in a criss-cross pattern until they feel snug.
Using your floorjack, raise the truck a hair and then remove the jackstand and put it off to the side. Slowly lower the truck until the wheel is on the ground and the suspension is starting to compress.
Tighten down the lugs in a criss cross pattern.
Lower the truck the rest of the way.
Repeat these steps for the other side.
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