My 4th Gen Front Brakes walkthrough

[mole177]

rears may be a bit more tricky since the parking brake is on the inside as a brake drum is.

just a couple clicks of the sprocket should re-adjust for the new rotor.

unless your rear rotor/brake are seized and absolutely need replacing, you will rarely have to change it.

also, if you're not mechanically inclined, i would suggest having a buddy who is over to help you.

 

[TBoliv]

this is an awesome write up thanks so much. ive never done brakes but this seems easy to do? is it similiar for the rears?

ive seen a few different costs on the replies, does anyone have the avg cost for the pair? for rotors/pads.

I got pads at Kragen for $50 and rotors at Autozone (who was the only one who had them in stock for the Sport) at $60/each. So not counting sundries, I spent $170. I didn't have to replace my rotors, but it was easier than waiting for someone to turn them.

 

[shuly]

... i would suggest having a buddy who is over to help you.

It is always more fun if someone is there to help...especially if they bring the beer!

 

[leftyguns21]

I got pads at Kragen for $50 and rotors at Autozone (who was the only one who had them in stock for the Sport) at $60/each. So not counting sundries, I spent $170. I didn't have to replace my rotors, but it was easier than waiting for someone to turn them.

oh nice thanks. thats much cheaper than having someone else do it.

im wondering if i should look in to a big brake kit. ive always wanted one and my beef with all cars ive ever owned is the stopping power.

im only at 30k now so i have awhile to think about it.

 

[shuly]

im wondering if i should look in to a big brake kit. ive always wanted one and my beef with all cars ive ever owned is the stopping power.

Some people have done a Tundra brake upgrade. There are past posts about doing this sort of upgrade. Just remember to make sure that your existing wheels will fit around the new rotor and calipers before you start taking things apart. It would be a nasty surprise after doing all that work.

 

[SkylineGTRracer]

oh nice thanks. thats much cheaper than having someone else do it.

im wondering if i should look in to a big brake kit. ive always wanted one and my beef with all cars ive ever owned is the stopping power.

im only at 30k now so i have awhile to think about it.

you should look into stoptech if you want the big brake upgrade. I plan on going that route after I find 6 lug volks. it will be pricey though I figure 1200-1500 bucks but I say well worth that investment

 

[leftyguns21]

Some people have done a Tundra brake upgrade. There are past posts about doing this sort of upgrade. Just remember to make sure that your existing wheels will fit around the new rotor and calipers before you start taking things apart. It would be a nasty surprise after doing all that work.

i have the factory 18's so im not thinking the size will be an issue.
whats the big differance between the tunrda/4Runner? i assume this means the Tundras have more stopping power.

you should look into stoptech if you want the big brake upgrade. I plan on going that route after I find 6 lug volks. it will be pricey though I figure 1200-1500 bucks but I say well worth that investment

holy hell. yeah that is a bit pricey. i guess i should start saving now.
although, on my Audi S4, i paid $980 for stock pads/rotors on all corners so i suppose $1200 wouldnt be too bad.

 

[johnnyd2723]

Is this basically the same procedure and hardware for a 96 4runner? BTW, nice write up!

 

[liquidvw]

Great write up. Thanks to the OP. I just did this job this weekend and this guide was helpful. A few tips that I will add for anyone in the future doing this.

1. I had one pin that was real easy to remove with a hammer and a flat head screw driver. The others weren't so easy. I took one of the pins and put it on the grinder to make the diameter a bit smaller. This allowed me to use this pin to knock out the stuck pins. Once the stuck ones were out, the grinded pin could simply could be pulled out. I replaced all the pins so, grinding one pin wasn't a big deal as its now in the garbage.

2. I found it difficult to get the c clamp to sit on the side where the bleeder screw is. I took a flat 1/4" piece of metal across the caliper. This gave me a nice flat service for the c clamp to sit on.

3. All but one of my pistons pushed in without issues. I did have one piston that wouldn't compress with the c clamp. What I did was to turn the break pad 90 degrees so that it covered only the stuck piston. Then I took a pair of flat jawed vice grips and but it on the handle where you turn the c clamp. This gave me a bit more leverage and the piston turned in.

 

[wbwatson79]

Anybody have a hard time getting the calipers off of their truck? I had no luck linking a couple of 17mm wrenches together so I tried an impact wrench...no luck there either. What on earth do you have to do to free these things up?
I am trying to decide if I should go buy a cheapo 25" breaker bar from Harbor Freight and just go get a 48" piece of conduit to slide over the end of a ratchet/wrench. If the impact wrench wouldn't break them free I think I'll need more leverage than 25". These bolts are kicking my ass!

 

[shuly]

Anybody have a hard time getting the calipers off of their truck? I had no luck linking a couple of 17mm wrenches together so I tried an impact wrench...no luck there either. What on earth do you have to do to free these things up?
I am trying to decide if I should go buy a cheapo 25" breaker bar from Harbor Freight and just go get a 48" piece of conduit to slide over the end of a ratchet/wrench. If the impact wrench wouldn't break them free I think I'll need more leverage than 25". These bolts are kicking my ass!

I used PB Blaster tapped them with a hammer and let it penetrate. Used the jack handle as a breaker bar. If they are really frozen, hit them with some PB blaster and let them sit overnight. Hit them again in the morning and then give it a shot. They will eventually come loose.

 

[riverwolf]

Anybody have a hard time getting the calipers off of their truck? I had no luck linking a couple of 17mm wrenches together so I tried an impact wrench...no luck there either. What on earth do you have to do to free these things up?
I am trying to decide if I should go buy a cheapo 25" breaker bar from Harbor Freight and just go get a 48" piece of conduit to slide over the end of a ratchet/wrench. If the impact wrench wouldn't break them free I think I'll need more leverage than 25". These bolts are kicking my ass!

Not trying to be a smarta$$, but are you sure you're trying to turn the bolts in the right direction? When working from the wrong end of a bolt, it's not unheard of to get the polarity reversed. There was even a thread explicitly asking which direction for the caliper bolts about this time last year. FWIW, the factory spec is only 91 ft-lbs and I had no trouble removing mine last year with an 18" breaker bar (only 12$ at your nearest Autozone), no penetrating lube required...didn't even think to turn the wheel on the first one to give myself better access. YMMV.

BTW, CCW will be towards the ground or front of the vehicle when you're facing the rotor assuming your tool handle is somewhere in the vicinity of the mudflap. Rotation is opposite the wheel lug nuts.

-Brent

 

[wbwatson79]

Believe me I checked several times to make sure I was going the right way. They really were just that tight. I finally got them loose after I went to Lowes and picked up a 5 foot long piece of 3/4" conduit to slide over the end of the ratchet. Best $2.67 I ever spent. I cleaned the bolts off because they were definately pretty rusty, also cleaned out the holes in the bracket so hopefully I won't have an issue next time.

 

[eliask08]

Shims

My new EBC pads came with an integrated shim, but do I still need to use the old ones? I am doing the sparks today, along with the brakes, and am not certain about this.

Elias

 

[eliask08]

Sorry to be stealing your post, ducman, but I am doing my breaks today and have noticed that the calliper pins are a bit warped. PD Blaster and a mallet were able to get them out in 15 minutes, but should I be concerned? I have a new set form the dealer, but am worried that there might be another underlying issue here.

 

[eliask08]

Should I be concerned?

Well, I have a seized piston on the inner, lower caliper, for both the right and left brakes. Sucks to do this today as all the shops are closed for the holiday. I am attempting the rear now, which should go smooth.

Elias

 

[eliask08]

Rear=Finished. It was incredibly easy. Now, all I have to do is pickup two 13WH calipers from Napa, and reattempt the front!

 

[liquidvw]

Anybody have a hard time getting the calipers off of their truck? I had no luck linking a couple of 17mm wrenches together so I tried an impact wrench...no luck there either. What on earth do you have to do to free these things up?
I am trying to decide if I should go buy a cheapo 25" breaker bar from Harbor Freight and just go get a 48" piece of conduit to slide over the end of a ratchet/wrench. If the impact wrench wouldn't break them free I think I'll need more leverage than 25". These bolts are kicking my ass!

I used a breaker bar with a short piece of pipe on it for extra leverage. They were in there good.

My new EBC pads came with an integrated shim, but do I still need to use the old ones? I am doing the sparks today, along with the brakes, and am not certain about this.

Elias

I used Wagner thermo quite pads. They had the shim built in. I did not re use the factory shim.

Well, I have a seized piston on the inner, lower caliper, for both the right and left brakes. Sucks to do this today as all the shops are closed for the holiday. I am attempting the rear now, which should go smooth.

Elias

I thought I had a sized piston as well. Turns out that I just wasn't turning hard enough. I put a pair of vise grips on my c clamp and my piston went in.

 

[kdiddy]

Which break is which

SO, I just did a break job and I have a few questions about which pad is which.

I think I matched the pads as they were in my car, but I noticed the new pads had an L on them and the Caliper had an R....and that doesn't seem kosher.

So here is a picture of the old pads, and how I think they were in my car...and how they are now in my car. IF they are wrong I haven't driven it so I can definitely switch them up before I break them in. Help is much appreciated

 

[TechWrench]

SO, I just did a break job and I have a few questions about which pad is which.

I think I matched the pads as they were in my car, but I noticed the new pads had an L on them and the Caliper had an R....and that doesn't seem kosher.

So here is a picture of the old pads, and how I think they were in my car...and how they are now in my car. IF they are wrong I haven't driven it so I can definitely switch them up before I break them in. Help is much appreciated

The reason for marking some pads left/right has to do with the metal wear indicators on the pads. If installed on the pads, these wear indicators are designed to start making a squealing noise when the metal tab hits the rotor surface, indicating it is time to replace the pads. In most cases, these wear indicator tabs are supposed to be installed so they would make contact and be 'pulled' by the rotor when the vehicle is moving forward, not being 'pushed' by the rotor. In most cases, this means the outer and inner pads should have the wear indicators installed so they are at the bottom of the pad when mounted in the caliper if the calipers are mounted in front (toward front of vehicle) of the rotors, and if the calipers are mounted behind the rotors (toward rear of vehicle, then the pads would be mounted with the tabs on the top end of the pads.

Since the calipers on the 4Runner are mounted after the hub (behind the rotors), the wear indicators should be on the top of all pads, inner and outer.