My Engine Swap in progress!
- Thread starter poleclimber63
- Start date
zgensler31
Senior Member
No problem bud. Because the reason I'm telling you to check your injectors and compare them is. My original motor blew a head gasket. It started with a misfire. It kinda went away after replacing the plugs. It was misfire in cylinder #3 , ofcourse cylinder #3 blew and that cylinder was filled with coolant to the top. It was bad. I was to worried to rebuild the motor and then end up with bottom end knocking. So I got a jdm. After we dropped the jdm, I was so happy until we started the motor up. It was misfiring. I was so disappointed and so angry thinking here we go again. Same shit same problem. My.mechanic buddy quickly was like it's the Injectors. It has to be. Shit you not they were different, as soon as we replaced them it ran like a champ. And even know he busted my balls about buying Toyota red coolant spending almost $100 for three gallons, I said I'd rather pay $100 now then $1500 again. After that I am beyond anal. Oil changes every 3000-4000 miles. Check my coolant constantly, check under the car for leaks constantly. Check the oil I check everything once a week. Because I want this car to last and I enjoy driving it. Plus, you might drop the motor in and if it is misfiring you might be looking in all the wrong places you know ?
Mine is 97, I don't know if the years had to do with different type of injectors being on the 5vzfe. But I think being that it's from across the globe it might lol.
I paid $1500 for jdm motor, the timing belt sticker says the belt was changed at around 58k miles. The jdm place said there engines have around 30k-60k miles on them. No more. How true is this ? Who knows. But I did get to go to their warehouse and pick out the motor out of like 10 they had. So I picked the cleanest. Another funny thing is the jdm motor has a sticker saying to replace the timing belt at every 100,000 kilometers, which is about 50-60k miles. But I'm sure every 90-100k miles is safe.
How much did you pay? I also got to keep a ac compressor, starter and couple other things of the jdm motor as those were basicallly the same but I didn't disconnect my ac compressor , I didn't want to refill it back lol.
When you moved the oil filter into the proper location, there was a round thing that was covering the other filter location, I don't know the proper name for it. Well , I though I could get away by re-using my old one, but I believe that it was to small or something, and also there's a little o-ring in that round cover, the domestic o-ring I had on mine didn't fit. I had to go to the dealer and order a specific o-ring for that cover.
Make sure it covers everything properly with proper o-ring. I believe there are two groves for two different type of o-rings. Just something to look out for.
Hey guys. Are you referring to the o - ring for the oil cooler? Or one for the filter.... I ask because as I just fired my jdm swap up, I have oil all over the ground and it appears to be coming from the filter. I used fipg for the cooler, and its pretty dry, but the filter and surrounding is soaked. Any clue?
poleclimber63
Member
Crap! I believe the o-ring he's talking about is the one between the oil cooler and the block on the right of the pic.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g....-picture25686-swapping-oil-filter-cooler.jpg
I think he was considering using the o-ring from the cap on the block that was installed on the JDM (on the left) and re-using it for the oil cooler (on the right). Can't, because its smaller. I ordered it from Toyota.
This maybe a stupid question, and I apologize for it in advance, but did you thread the union into the block far enough (and torque it)? If it isn't threaded into the block far enough, is it possible it won't seat properly? I don't know... Or is it possible the o-ring stuck to the seat and you didn't notice, and threaded the filter over it (on mine, I had to scrape the o-ring/washer off and I cleaned the seat off with a med scouring pad)? I can't think of any other way oil could leak out at the filter seat.... sure its coming from there? or the oil dip stick hole....or oil pressure sender, next to the filter....or the plug directly below the sender? Sorry!
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Talking about the o-ring for the oil cooler. The jdm is different size. We changed mine while the engine was in the car because we didn't have the o-ring at the time. It is possible to unscrew the oil cooler and replace the o-ring bit it's very very tight and you must be patient as it's a lot of feeling with your fingers. It's bassicaly a must to Change the o-ring because when you move the oil filter into new location your moving the oil cooler into new location. And the seal is different for that location.
The o-ring between block and cooler
The o-ring between block and cooler
poleclimber63
Member
I didn't get a wiring harness from JDM--- it was cut. I pulled back the wiring harness and strapped it out of the way during the swap. I cleaned all connectors and re-applied dielectric grease.
Come to think of it, I didn't check the coils (I have spares!!) but I installed new Denso wires. I triple checked order, however, I'll check again! As far as GND goes, I cleaned all connections with scouring pad--- unless I missed one... there's 3 right?----- 1 on firewall, 1 on the block below the ALT, and 1 on the plenum? I'll test them electrically.
Here's the final product:
Question: Did you swap any of the sensors? ie. crank, cam etc.... I didn't.
I appreciate your input!! Thanks!
poleclimber63
Member
Multiple steps forward, a bunch of steps back!! Tonight I started it up and let it warm up. while I was waiting to check the timing etc. suddenly, fuel streamed out from the rear of the engine --- however, I noticed this after I got a "wiff" of the gas and looked under to see a growing puddle!!!! I quickly shut it down!
In light of this development, when you changed your injectors, did you use your old rails and spacers or the JDM ones? I realised I used the JDMs. I haven't removed the plenum yet, but I believe the fuel is leaking from the top of the injectors... I changed the grommets on the injectors but maybe I should have changed the o-rings as well. Did you?? What a pain in the @@S!!! I know what I'm going to be doing, after work, this week....:mad2:
I used my old rails for the injectors. Mine were pissing fuel out to but it was because of a bad seal. I did not use any connectors or sensors from jdm. My friend had a bad experience with using jdm sensors and wires on domestic engine. It just doesn't go well. I didn't use jdm coils. I used my old spark plugs and coils.
zgensler31
Senior Member
Crap! I believe the o-ring he's talking about is the one between the oil cooler and the block on the right of the pic.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g....-picture25686-swapping-oil-filter-cooler.jpg
I think he was considering using the o-ring from the cap on the block that was installed on the JDM (on the left) and re-using it for the oil cooler (on the right). Can't, because its smaller. I ordered it from Toyota.
This maybe a stupid question, and I apologize for it in advance, but did you thread the union into the block far enough (and torque it)? If it isn't threaded into the block far enough, is it possible it won't seat properly? I don't know... Or is it possible the o-ring stuck to the seat and you didn't notice, and threaded the filter over it (on mine, I had to scrape the o-ring/washer off and I cleaned the seat off with a med scouring pad)? I can't think of any other way oil could leak out at the filter seat.... sure its coming from there? or the oil dip stick hole....or oil pressure sender, next to the filter....or the plug directly below the sender? Sorry!
Yeah I hadn't thought of the dipstick. But I couldn't find a torque spec for the union. What did you use?
poleclimber63
Member
"oil filter union x cylinder block" =18 ft-lbs ------ from 2003 Tacoma 3.4l Service Specs SS-17... I found this as a pdf on-line. This doc lists most all torque specs for the engine--- I compared these specs with the specs for my vehicle year and they are identical---- if its a 3.4L it will be consistent for "like" components. FYI, "oil cooler to cylinder block" = 44ft-lbs.
During my lunch I ran over to the parts store and picked up 6 seal kits for my injectors at $6 apiece, total $36. Made in Japan! I called Toyota and priced JUST the upper o-rings... $6.50 ea.... with 2 per injector, 6 injectors and 1 for fuel regulator that comes to $84.50!!! and that's without the additional 2 grommets per injector!!!! I bought one for the fuel regulator and it feels and looks exactly the same as the kit ones.
When I got home from work today, I had the throttle body/upper--lower plenum off in 15mins- after the last couple of months, I could do this in my sleep!!
zgensler31
Senior Member
That's what I went with, and its definitely torqued down to 18 ft lbs. probably more. Still chasing this leak. And it's bad too.
poleclimber63
Member
Could you have cracked the oil pressure sender, next to the filter? Wow.... can you take pics or vid to see where this oil is coming from?
zgensler31
Senior Member
Sorry for the panic, ended up being a bad filter.
poleclimber63
Member
Fuel rail/injector seals replaced
Yesterday, I picked up the seals from the parts store, had the throttle body, plenum off in 15min. I pulled the injectors out and replaced all seals and grommets. I identified the cause of my leak,
used a little grease to seal them and had it all back together within 30min. It now runs really smooth compared to the old but, however, I'm getting some throttle hessitation and shaking.... I have yet to do any troubleshooting... hopefully I'll get the time this weekend! I've no codes...Any ideas?
Yesterday, I picked up the seals from the parts store, had the throttle body, plenum off in 15min. I pulled the injectors out and replaced all seals and grommets. I identified the cause of my leak,
used a little grease to seal them and had it all back together within 30min. It now runs really smooth compared to the old but, however, I'm getting some throttle hessitation and shaking.... I have yet to do any troubleshooting... hopefully I'll get the time this weekend! I've no codes...Any ideas?
poleclimber63
Member
drive....
Well, I took my re-engined 4Runner for a drive in the country this morning and this is the problem:
It seems to lack a little power and hesitates on acceleration. I noticed what could be misses... When got back I read the codes and I read P0300 "Multiple misfires" and P0304 "misfire cyl 4" .
What I've done so far:
-well, replaced seals on the injectors.....these are from my old engine
-checked to see if I hooked up all the vaccuum lines correctly-- yes
during the swap:
-cleaned the MAF, throttle body, plenum, replaced all gaskets including ThottleB gasket,
-new plugs and wires---- coils are from my old engine and I didnt have a problem with them then,
-new TB,WP,
-new fuel filter,
Possible questions....:
-I feel confident about the TB install, but could it have shifted after tensioning??? How do I check the timing with no access to No.1 plug?
-Could I have a coincidental O2 sensor failure?
-TPS?
-I didn't swap the cam or the crank position sensors... possible issue? I will measure them for resistance.....
Any and all suggestions welcome! How do I measure the timing without access to No.1??? I was thinking of making a mark on the pulley at 6 places aligned with No.1 mark.... will this work???
Thanks in advance for advice!!!!!!
Well, I took my re-engined 4Runner for a drive in the country this morning and this is the problem:
It seems to lack a little power and hesitates on acceleration. I noticed what could be misses... When got back I read the codes and I read P0300 "Multiple misfires" and P0304 "misfire cyl 4" .
What I've done so far:
-well, replaced seals on the injectors.....these are from my old engine
-checked to see if I hooked up all the vaccuum lines correctly-- yes
during the swap:
-cleaned the MAF, throttle body, plenum, replaced all gaskets including ThottleB gasket,
-new plugs and wires---- coils are from my old engine and I didnt have a problem with them then,
-new TB,WP,
-new fuel filter,
Possible questions....:
-I feel confident about the TB install, but could it have shifted after tensioning??? How do I check the timing with no access to No.1 plug?
-Could I have a coincidental O2 sensor failure?
-TPS?
-I didn't swap the cam or the crank position sensors... possible issue? I will measure them for resistance.....
Any and all suggestions welcome! How do I measure the timing without access to No.1??? I was thinking of making a mark on the pulley at 6 places aligned with No.1 mark.... will this work???
Thanks in advance for advice!!!!!!
Hmmm interesting. Are u sure ur coils are good ? Can u swap the coils with the jdm coil see if it goes away? Maybe ur old coil was good till u took it out? If it was a o2 it should throw o2 code. Mine was misfiring but stopped after I replaced the injectors. I didn't replace any sensors.
zgensler31
Senior Member
I didn't mess with any of the sonsors. In fact I used the two jdm ones from the throttle body cuz they were practically brand new.
Number 1 cylinder is one of the front 2 right, should be able to get to it.
Double check your connections, maybe a vacuum leak somewhere.
Number 1 cylinder is one of the front 2 right, should be able to get to it.
Double check your connections, maybe a vacuum leak somewhere.
poleclimber63
Member
I swapped in my JDM coils and it made no difference. I'm using my old injectors, as per your experience--- I measured them all before I put them in and they all measured 14.0 and 14.4 ohms.
new plugs and new wires. Denso PK16TR11, (double gnd). Denso wires. Scoured connectors and re-connected gnds one on block, one on head.
You mean the TPS...?
I noticed this afternoon my Idle speed was 1500rpm hot. If I follow the Toyota service manual it takes me to the ECM and fuel system.... also IAC... the problem is, I don't have the complete manual...
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zgensler31
Senior Member
Yeah the tps but also the other one thats on there, the iac I think it is. Idle is definitely high, mine came in right at like 600 rpm.
Did your jdm come with a throttle body, maybe just try swapping the iac over from it.
Did your jdm come with a throttle body, maybe just try swapping the iac over from it.
