On Point
New member
I refuse to believe this. He's ruined my country, I won't let him ruin my beer!
My First 4WD Experience with my '16 T4RTE - NOT GOOD
- Thread starter el_kab0ng
- Start date
I refuse to believe this. He's ruined my country, I won't let him ruin my beer!
blues
New member
I think you may well be right.
From Guinness to Yuengling: Obama's Top 5 beer moments | masslive.com
I sure as heck don't believe he knows a thing about hockey. (Something my Rangers sure as heck aren't playing (very well) at the moment against the hated Islanders.)
"Okay, you guys got me. I really never even heard of it before. Ying-Ling. I just can't stop saying it!"
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I went to my dads property and went through all of the steps. Printed the matrix on this forum, had it laminated and keep it in the glove box.
You really have to learn all of the features and sequence for shifting. The system has more flexibility than any 4WD I have ever owned.
If you remember two things crawl and MTS are not friends. Put the vehicle in 4WD before using any of these features, turn all features off while in 4WD, this may not be correct, but what works for me.
77
Oh my favorite, found it on my business trips to Bethlehem, PA. Cannot get it in Louisiana, have to drive to Mobile Alabama to get it.
When we make a beer run there, bring enough back, possibly breaking some laws
ic0517
New member
2013 Trail.
To get from 2H to 4H, the easiest way I found is to put the trans in R, move the vehicle slightly backward and pull the lever straight down towards the rear. Slides right in. With practice you should be able to get it in within a foot of moving backwards. Found that out when trying to figure out how in the hell am I going to get my 4Runner out of the garage and into deep snow without hitting the house. I can get it into 4H going forward too, just saying that is the easiest I found.
When I want to get from 4H to 2H, I try to make it so that the engine is neither driving or lagging the drive train, then flip the level up and don't be a chicken sh!t about it. So that means I don't have my foot on the gas or the brake, and the engine is not slowing the vehicle on down (engine braking if you ever drove stick). Nothing that would cause the gears to have a force on them. Easiest way I know is drive in a straight line, give it some gas, let off, then flip the lever at the top of the hump.
Not a lot of experience in going from 4H to 4L.
No beer after doc told me either lose weight or take Lipitor because of triglycerides in a blood test.
To get from 2H to 4H, the easiest way I found is to put the trans in R, move the vehicle slightly backward and pull the lever straight down towards the rear. Slides right in. With practice you should be able to get it in within a foot of moving backwards. Found that out when trying to figure out how in the hell am I going to get my 4Runner out of the garage and into deep snow without hitting the house. I can get it into 4H going forward too, just saying that is the easiest I found.
When I want to get from 4H to 2H, I try to make it so that the engine is neither driving or lagging the drive train, then flip the level up and don't be a chicken sh!t about it. So that means I don't have my foot on the gas or the brake, and the engine is not slowing the vehicle on down (engine braking if you ever drove stick). Nothing that would cause the gears to have a force on them. Easiest way I know is drive in a straight line, give it some gas, let off, then flip the lever at the top of the hump.
Not a lot of experience in going from 4H to 4L.
No beer after doc told me either lose weight or take Lipitor because of triglycerides in a blood test.
carlomagne
New member
I love trying out all the different kinds of ballast points. Grapefruit is a winner for me.
2h to 4h and back just works. Just do it under 50. If it flashes for awhile, change your engine load, it figures out the rest. I drive through a flooding sand wash every day or so. Sometimes I need 4h. Sometimes the car drifts sideways and goes right down the wash for an extra 200 feet through the softest, wettest sand I can find to see how far I can make it before needed 4h. Weird.
For 4l, first time I tried it ground and sounded awful. Got xfer case stuck in neutral. Shut off engine, put tc back in 4h, started engine, good to go.
Then I learned that you're not supposed to let it sit in TCase neutral, but firmly go straight from 4h to 4l. Haven't had any issues since. I frequently see how far I can get in 2h. Then get stuck in 4h. Then get stuck in 4l. Then use the locker.
It's hard to get stuck with the locker, but if I do, crawl control still gets me out. Noisy thing, but sure is effective!
Mts, haven't figured out anything that it actually does.
For 4l, first time I tried it ground and sounded awful. Got xfer case stuck in neutral. Shut off engine, put tc back in 4h, started engine, good to go.
Then I learned that you're not supposed to let it sit in TCase neutral, but firmly go straight from 4h to 4l. Haven't had any issues since. I frequently see how far I can get in 2h. Then get stuck in 4h. Then get stuck in 4l. Then use the locker.
It's hard to get stuck with the locker, but if I do, crawl control still gets me out. Noisy thing, but sure is effective!
Mts, haven't figured out anything that it actually does.
1engineer
Moderator
First, tires make a big difference no question about that. With that said I have driven in many a snow storm with my stock tires. Also have taken them off road too.
Specific tire types are made for specific ground conditions. What comes stock on the 4Runner is typically an "all season" tire, which means it's good for the road in all seasons. It's fairly quiet because the tread pattern is tight and the grooves are small.
An AT tire is probably the best tire to get for an all around tire. It is good in most conditions but is not great at any specific condition. The Cooper AT3, Firestone Destination and Nitto Terra Grappler are examples.
A MT tire is really good in the mud but not so much in the sand or on the highway. The aggressive tread pattern will dig you into stuck land quickly when in sand. They are noisy on the highway too but they are good in the wet dirt.
So you have to choose. Asking anyone their opinion on tires is like asking them their opinion on which color they like and why. Everyone will have a different opinion which is why they make so many different tires. Here is a thread I did awhile back http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/114342-tires-2.html#post1056240 that discusses AT tires and the pros and cons of different tires in general. Hope this helps.
Engineer
New member
I would recommend a good A/T tire for your use, there are noticeable trade offs with a true M/T. As [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] said , the stock tires are not the worst things in the world but they are easy to improve upon with a true A/T if you want extra security when off of paved roads.
P.S. for a "unimproved county road" I would expect the stock tires will be fine, and what's the worse case if they are not, a minor delay while changing to the spare or waiting on a Tow truck........its a bit different perspective when you are 60miles from civilization.
Yeah.. I've already had my 2WD vehicle stuck out there once and shelled out some decent coin to get pulled out (the guys had to use a bobcat it was so sloppy). Even with a county road, it's still a bit remote and a decent wait to get someone out there for a pull. In any event, thanks again for the insight on A/Ts. I'll do some research and see what works best.
blues
New member
All the more reason to keep a cooler with some premium craft beer close at hand. :tea:
See how deftly we are able to bring this thread right back on point? :fencing:
Cymon
New member
Ahh, Rocky Mountain Water!
BobsTrail
Senior Member
I agree with the comments by 1Engineer about A/T and M/T tires. The M/Ts have their drawbacks, but may be good if your roads are that bad.
Goodyear Duratracs or Toyo R/T may be a good in-between choice to consider.
Looks like this thread has a required beer reference.
We moved to Oregon and are enjoying the land of micro breweries and a Dechutes beer with 11% alcohol content, but not when off-road.
Goodyear Duratracs or Toyo R/T may be a good in-between choice to consider.
Looks like this thread has a required beer reference.
We moved to Oregon and are enjoying the land of micro breweries and a Dechutes beer with 11% alcohol content, but not when off-road.
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1engineer
Moderator
That right there my friend will give any tire on any 4WD fits. I have driven countless miles of roads out to job sites such as the one shown in your pic.
Put it in 4HI
Turn TRAC and VSC off.
Keep your speed but not too much! Key point here!
You will slide. Let off the gas a bit to keep it on the road.
You will spin. Again, back off only a bit.
You need to keep the tires at the point of breaking traction but not quite breaking traction. Over time you will develop that "feel" with your accelerator.
If you do get stuck in that crap:
Don't keep spinning! Use ATRAC in 4HI and "saw" the steering wheel a bit. If you can't go forward, go backward. If all else fails, put it in 4LO, lock the rear and pray.
Those conditions require a skilled driver more than anything else. Sure, MT's would help but having experience driving in those conditions is key also. AT's would do much better than stock but not as good as something like Cooper ST Maxx. I have witnessed experienced guys have to get out and put chains on their trucks to get up slight grades in that mess. I have had to be pulled through sections of that type of road by skidders and dozers.
I hate mud like that.
Agreed. Slicker than owl poop when it's wet, softer than beach sand when it's dry. Oddly enough, once you make it to my gate, any 2WD vehicle can get in, it's just the stupid county road leading up to the property that causes the most grief in rainy conditions.
The county is too poor to do anything about it, but the quotes I've received for graveling are $5/sq foot, 10" deep. My property is in the middle with neighbors on either side a mile in from where the gravel stops. Given most are absentee land owners, no one is interested in going in together on getting the road improved and I'll be damned if I'm going to pay to have my neighbor's access improved on my own.
The county is too poor to do anything about it, but the quotes I've received for graveling are $5/sq foot, 10" deep. My property is in the middle with neighbors on either side a mile in from where the gravel stops. Given most are absentee land owners, no one is interested in going in together on getting the road improved and I'll be damned if I'm going to pay to have my neighbor's access improved on my own.
