My New 2000 Limited 4x4 E-Locker

Novashard's 2000 Limited 4x4 E-Locker Maintenance Thread

I just bought this 2000 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 w/ E-locker for $4500 with 190k miles. It is virtually rust-free which was the big selling point. I didn't take any before pictures unfortunately but here she is as of right now. The 4x4 engages nicely at high and low speeds and the center and rear differential lock and unlock without issue.

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Since I bought it and the only maintenance record the previous owner had was the timing belt and water pump being done one year ago I decided to jump right in and refresh alot of items. First I changed the plugs with the dual ground NGKs and a new set of NGK wires and a set of new coil boots. The old spark plugs had worn down to a tapered point. I changed the oil with high mileage Pennzoil 5w-30 and a Purolator filter, the OEM ones hadn't arrived and I'll probably do a Seafoam treatment soon anyway. I changed the serpentine belts and replaced the a/c idler pulley.

The check engine light was on initially when I bought it but based on the code I replaced the air/fuel ratio sensor upstream and o2 sensor downstream and the code went away and has stayed away.

I changed the fluid in the rear differential with Amsoil 80w-90 and the transfer case and front differential with Amsoil 75w-90. I dropped the transmission pan, changed the filter screen, cleaned the magnets, and reinstalled with new rubber gasket. I then filled the pan with Amsoil multi-vehicle and them disconnected the returned line and started the car several times to pump the old fluid out as I kept adding new fluid. I pumped 3 gallons through and called it good.

I disconnected the return line on the power steering and flushed the fluid thru with the vehicle off ignition on and turning the wheels from lock to lock. I flushed it with Castrol Dex/Merc ATF.

I replaced the fuel filter with an new(OEM) filter. I put in a new Spectre air filter as well. I removed the MAF sensor and cleaned it with MAF spray.

I then replaced the radiator and thermostat(OEM), upper(OEM) and lower(OEM) radiator hoses. I flushed the cooling system & both heater cores out with a hose and man there was some nasty stuff that came out. Based on the fluid that came out and the corrosion in the radiator I'd say that the previous owner had filled it with straight tap water. One of the rear heater core lines was completely clogged and had to be blown out with an air compressor. I then flowed new 50/50 Toyota Red/Distilled water into the heat core hoses to flush out the tap water. I filled the system with more of my 50/50 mix. I found that the radiator upper hose was collapsing after cooling when driving and ended up finding that the hose going from the radiator cap to the reservoir and the reservoir cap itself had completely clogged as well and had to be cleared with a stiff wire. The reservoir had alot of buildup and was cleaned out as well. I added a nice radiator cap with a built in temp gauge. It's a little more accurate than the dash gauge. The heat had barely felt warm before and now it is roasting hot!

I replaced all the interior overhead lights with LEDs. all of the center console lights had burnt out including the back lights for the climate control so I ordered all new OEM replacement bulbs and now they are all light appropriately. I replaced a burnt out fog light. I saw that my driver's side headlight was aimed way far up and was going to adjust the aim but when as I looked closed I noticed the bulb seemed at an angle and found that the wire spring clip hadn't been put back and the bulb was just hanging loose in the housing, spring secured and now my headlights are aimed appropriately.

The ride was horrible and even regular road bumps would routinely cause the suspension to bounce off the bump stops. After much research on this site I decided to replace the suspension all around with Bilstein 5100s and OME 880 & 890. The ride has much improved and it does not feel too stiff either. It did raise the body quite a bit and added some rake but I'm sure that its just making up for the sag that developed and once it settles it'll be stock height. A sway link snapped and they all had broken boots so I replaced them all with Moog problem solvers with the grease fittings. I added a couple pumps to each one and did three pumps to all grease fittings along the driveshafts. Firestone had a $30 off coupon for their lifetime alignment service so I got that taken care of since the new suspension seriously threw off the alignment.

The power antenna was jammed and not working so I removed it and replaced it with the whip mod antenna. It wasn't too hard to fish the new antenna thru to the radio. I used a Y and adapter to combine the front and rear antennas input into the head unit. I then replaced the crappy aftermarket radio the PO had with a nice Kenmore with HD Radio, bluetooth, front and back USB, aux port. I also installed Infinity Reference component speakers up front replacing the factory 6.5 & tweeter. I replaced the rear door factory speakers with Infinity Reference two-way 5.25" speakers. I traced the factory plastic mount on 3/4" plywood to make a custom mount and sealed it with a bead of caulk. The stereo sounds amazing now. I ran a microphone to mount in the gauge cluster area but somehow misplaced the mount in all of this so I have to wait for another one to arrive before it can be secured in a good mounting position.

I picked up this rim from a local used parts placed for $40 and plan on replacing the tire on it and replacing my spare with it. I replaced all the crappy wipers with OEM from the local Toyota so in the future I'll just buy the rubber inserts. I removed the skid plate from the front to clean up and to make this work a bit easier and then they'll be going back on. I put in new Weathertech mats throughout. I have their side deflectors on the way but they haven't arrived yet. I removed the factory hood deflector since it was broken at one end and cleaned the bump stops for it off the hood.

I plan to do the valve cover gaskets and PCV valve in the morning and trim the throttle body gasket so it no longer restricts airflow. I have shaky/squealing brakes that also dive right a bit when pressed hard so since I'll be doing the brakes anyway I plan on doing the 199mm upgrade to improve the brakes without the risk of ABS issues. I'll be replacing the soft brake lines with SS lines while I'm at it.

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Good find! No rust at all!

You got the upper radiator hose reversed. Have the while line towards the radiator at 12'O clock (top).

Also, install the engine cover otherwise the radiator is open to the road.
What is the part number for the Rear shock? I might order these.

Try camelbacktoyota in AZ for good deals on OEM parts. They have low prices (even below MSRP) and free shipping with $150 purchase.

Stay with OEM valve cover gaskets.
 
Good find! No rust at all!

You got the upper radiator hose reversed. Have the while line towards the radiator at 12'O clock (top).

Also, install the engine cover otherwise the radiator is open to the road.
What is the part number for the Rear shock? I might order these.

Try camelbacktoyota in AZ for good deals on OEM parts. They have low prices (even below MSRP) and free shipping with $150 purchase.

Stay with OEM valve cover gaskets.

I guess I'll just have to rotate the hose.

Yes, I'll be reinstalling the covers tomorrow.

Shocks
B8 5100 SKU: BIL-24-248730 - Front
B8 5100 SKU: BIL-24-249966 - Rear

Coils
OME 880 - Front
OME 890 - Rear

Here is a good side view after the new suspension was put in.
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This is the valve cover gasket I ordered along with some Toyota FIPG.
https://www.amazon.com/Ishino-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Set/dp/B001G6GY8Y
 
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Alright. I took apart the intake and valve covers and cleaned everything up. You can see that it was filthy. I then used FIPG to reseal both half moon seals and installed a new camshaft cap on each side. I replaced the spark plug tube gaskets in the valve cover and put in new valve cover gaskets and intake gaskets. I put in a new PCV valve and gasket as well. I thought the cylinder heads looked pretty clean. Surprisingly this really wasn't too hard, it was just long and a bit tedious. And I didn't have any leftover bolts or unplugged tubes, that's a win in my book!

Also cleaned up the corroded battery terminals while I was as it.

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Did some more work today.

I sanded down the center rim caps with 400 grit sandpaper and repainted it with Duplicolor Wheel Silver. I think it turned out pretty good.

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I installed the Weathertech side window deflectors that just arrived.

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And I installed the 199mm Tundra brake upgrade parts I received and new stainless steel brake lines in the front and back and flushed the system with new fluid. I decided to go with the 199mm upgrade since I have warped rotors now and want to prevent that in the future but I didn't want to risk all the ABS issues I read can occur with 96-00 4runners that upgrade to the 231mm calipers due to the larger fluid capacity of the 231mm calipers and the older 3rd gen 4runner brake boosters (if I understood what I read correctly). Below are the parts I ordered.

Brembo Rotors
199mm S13WE Calipers
Toyota OEM Pads
Toyota OEM Shims
Front Brake Lines
Rear Brake Line

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Damn, you've done all of the maintenance items and done some really tasteful upgrades to it!! Hell of a find at a damn good price!!!

If you'd like to come down to Alabama and help me do literally every single thing you've just done to mine, I would be stoked. No joke, I'm about to do literally all of those things to mine. What do you think of the 880/906 with bilstein 5100 set up? Can you tell much of a difference looking at it? What all bushings did you replace while you were at it?
 
Since I bought it and the only maintenance record the previous owner had was the timing belt and water pump being done one year ago I decided to jump right in and refresh alot of items.

Do you have the receipts for that timing belt change? What's strange is that OEM kits will have a sticker that you put on the timing chain cover, I've not known anyone to go through that trouble, then neglect to use the sticker. I also don't see any residue from a previous sticker having been removed. If it wasn't an OEM timing belt kit, I would swap it out with one asap.

Also, pull your rear ABS sensors (just needs a 10mm) and confirm if it's coated with anything, if so, then you need to swap your rear axle seals (and mostly likely bearings). Also confirm that your rear Diff breather is working properly (unscrew it, and blow air so see if it the cap lifts).

Great purchase otherwise, we're almost twins--with years and miles, but not the color :(
 
Last night I bedded the new brakes. Today I replaced all four shifter bushings with Toyota replacements for $6.50 from the dealer. I read a couple threads on it and it wasn't that hard. I used a couple picks and a punch to poke and prod the rubber feet in and out to access the lower bushings. When taking it apart I found that the upper driver side one was completely intact while the upper passenger side one was crumbled into alot of small pieces. Both of the lower bushings had disappeared with just a slight blue residue remaining. Hear is a picture of one side of the lower bushing before and after.

My new Toyota lower ball joints and 8 new bolts should arrive Tuesday!

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What do you think of the 880/906 with bilstein 5100 set up? Can you tell much of a difference looking at it? What all bushings did you replace while you were at it?

The ride has improved greatly. The old suspension was definitely hitting the bump stops and was hurting my back. the new suspension feels like a nice normal ride. It's not stiff like I read the OME 906 springs are. The new coils lifted it a couple inches I'd say from what it was, unfortunately I didn't take any before pictures. I'm sure that it will settle with time. Lifting it was not my intention. I was going for nice ride, stock height replacement. I did not replace any bushings, just the front upper suspension mounts when I was putting the new suspension in.

Do you have the receipts for that timing belt change? What's strange is that OEM kits will have a sticker that you put on the timing chain cover, I've not known anyone to go through that trouble, then neglect to use the sticker. I also don't see any residue from a previous sticker having been removed. If it wasn't an OEM timing belt kit, I would swap it out with one asap.

Also, pull your rear ABS sensors (just needs a 10mm) and confirm if it's coated with anything, if so, then you need to swap your rear axle seals (and mostly likely bearings). Also confirm that your rear Diff breather is working properly (unscrew it, and blow air so see if it the cap lifts).

Great purchase otherwise, we're almost twins--with years and miles, but not the color :(

I have a receipt that says the timing belt and water pump were replaced almost exactly a year ago with a "customer supplied kit". So I'll bet you're right and it is not a Toyota kit used. I can pop the top cover off easily enough and check though.

I'll check the rear ABS sensors and rear diff breather, thanks!
 
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Damn, putting in some work, I love it! I still need to go through and do some of this to my '00 Limited, but it was pretty well maintained when I got it, so not overly worried about anything.
Excited to keep an eye on this one!
 
Congratulations! The '99-00 Limiteds are one of the gems of the 3rd gen market, but I'm personally biased.

And great score on the price especially since it isn't rusty. Out here in the Pacific NW, that'd be a $6-7.5k truck all day long.
 
While I wait for the lower ball joints to be delivered today I went ahead and replaced my old, thin, corroded battery terminals. I was looking for something a little beefier with a cover and this seemed like a solid solution. After I was done I had an epiphany and checked my old 97 Accord EX Wagon 5-speed that I'm selling to see if the new battery I had just put in there was compatible with the 4runner. what do you know? The 6 cylinder 4runner has the same size battery as a 4 cylinder Accord! So a battery thats 18 months newer and with 100 more CCA and 20 more RC is now in the 4runner.

Battery Terminals

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First off, I think I forgot to mention that when I did the 199mm tundra brake upgrade it seemed weird to me that there was only a spring clip on one side of the brake pads to push them apart. It seemed to me that this would be an uneven force that might lead to one side of the pad to possibly drag a bit. So I bought a brake hardware set to add an additional spring clip to the other side of each of the brake calipers. FYI, I went on a 200 mile road trip and the brakes worked great the entire time and this picture is from after the trip.

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I took the advice from a previous comment and checked my rear differential breather. I heard a rush of air equalizing as I removed it so I'm guessing it isn't working properly. I will be ordering a new one to replace it.

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I then checked both rear ABS sensors as advised by the same person and found them both coated in what I believe is grease. I take it this is not a good sign?

Rear Driver Side
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Rear Passenger Side
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I also received and installed both lower ball joints today. I used 8 new bolts with blue thread locker. Everything was torque to specs from the timmy the toolman youtube video and new cotter pins all around.

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The new rear differential breather arrived.

Toyota Part number 90930-03031

The old one would allow air to be blown through it and sealed with suction so it was functional but looked to be pretty weathered so I decided a $10 part was worth helping to prevent the rear axle seals getting blown out.

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I had ordered a new fob from ebay and was attempting to program it following the directions detailed here;

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/7501-programming-instructions-keyless-entry-remote.html

I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work until I realized that the locks had stopped unlocking and locking from pressing the master lock/unlock button. From reading further in the thread I found that it is apparently common for these lock motors to suffer from "fatigue" when hot or repeated use. I then ordered four lock motors from here;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Nichibo-Door-Lock-Repair-Motor-Flat-Shaft-Brass-Collar-FC-280PT-22125/111182112752
*Select "round shaft, brass collar" option

I then followed the instructions from here;

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/202720-door-lock-motor-replacement.html

to replace the lock motor. It was a little finicky getting all the bars disconnected and the lock mechanism out without using much force that might break something but after about an hour everything was back together and the lock was working and using the above instructions I was finally able to program the newly used fob. The programming took several tries. In the steps where you press both the lock and unlock at the same time it means EXACTLY at the same time, even a fraction of a second off and the locks will cycle twice indicating it failed.

While I had the door open I figured I would post a couple pictures of the component Infinity speakers I had installed previously. Here is the link to the speakers;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SNMQDQ

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I also finally got tired of my crappy headlights and upgraded to these bulbs for $23 after coupon;

Osram Nightbreaker Laser H4
*Powerbulbs currently has a 25% off sitewide coupon "DRIVE25"

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Comparing new and old;
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I also aimed the headlights which probably made the biggest difference. Instead of the beam hitting the road about 40 feet in front of the truck they are now just a touch below the horizon. I should probably actually lower them just a hair to make sure I am not blinding people from every bump.

Before;
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After;
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*this is the low beam!
 
I picked up a set of limited rims from a scrap yard for $100 and got some winter shoes for my 4runner. I have a long commute, mostly highway, but it includes going over two mountains. I want to be prepared and nothing beats the stopping distance and steering of winter tires in snow so I got a set for the impending winter. I was initially going to get Blizzak but after I read that only the top 55% of their tread is snow tire rubber and the rest is all-season rubber I decided to go with these Finnish Nokian hock-a-lugie tires for $150/tire.

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