My New 2000 Limited 4x4 E-Locker
- Thread starter Novashards
- Start date
wrench.n.wheel
New member
Great job on bringing most of the maintenance up to date. That's a solid runner! Keep it up
Novashards
Member
Steering Rack Bushing Replacement
I am having vibrations in the steering wheel at speeds of 65-75 mph. The tires have been freshly installed and balanced. I replaced the inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Now I am going to replace the steering rack bushings since they look original.
I used ACDelco 45G24060 bushing kit
The work wasn't hard but it took a couple hours. I read a couple threads on how to do it beforehand. I did not removed the wheels or disconnect the tie rods or sway bar but i did put it up on jack stands so both front wheels were off the ground. I used c clamps and assorted large and small sockets to press the bushings in and out. The old ones looks in horrible condition so hopefully this fixes the vibrations. It also looks like i've got an oil leak from I'm guessing the rear main seal. I still go 5k miles between oil changes only having to add half a quart so it's not bad enough to pull the transmission yet.
I am having vibrations in the steering wheel at speeds of 65-75 mph. The tires have been freshly installed and balanced. I replaced the inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Now I am going to replace the steering rack bushings since they look original.
I used ACDelco 45G24060 bushing kit
The work wasn't hard but it took a couple hours. I read a couple threads on how to do it beforehand. I did not removed the wheels or disconnect the tie rods or sway bar but i did put it up on jack stands so both front wheels were off the ground. I used c clamps and assorted large and small sockets to press the bushings in and out. The old ones looks in horrible condition so hopefully this fixes the vibrations. It also looks like i've got an oil leak from I'm guessing the rear main seal. I still go 5k miles between oil changes only having to add half a quart so it's not bad enough to pull the transmission yet.
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Mark_BC
Senior Member
Interesting, my 4runner friend found the exact same year, model and colour as yours on CL with a bashed up front left corner. We literally are just about to buy it right now for $2200. It is in great condition, rust free. He wants the seats, cat, rear lights, roof rack. I want the steering wheel, engine, transfer case, elocker axle and other bits and pieces. Would be nice to get the AWD one with the center differential.
Novashards
Member
I pulled off the slip yoke from the rear driveshaft and found that it was virtually empty of grease despite earlier grease attempts. it seems like the fitting was clogged.The u-joint itself seemed to catch and resist a bit at one point in the rotation so I replaced it with ACDelco 45U0116. The new u-joint is very smooth at all angles of rotation.
I somehow screwed up the threads for the grease fitting for the slip yoke so I had to retap the hole with new threads for a new grease fitting. When putting the slip yoke back on the driveshaft I pushed it all the way on and allowed the grease gun to fill it with grease and push it back into position. Now I'm 100% sure there is plenty of grease. I then greased all the rest of the fittings on the front and rear driveshaft until I saw the nice red Mobile 1 Synthetic push through. I noticed there are is a pivot point on the double cardon and front u-joint that do not push out grease. Nothing I can do about the double cardon but I may have to take a closer look at the front u-joint.
I somehow screwed up the threads for the grease fitting for the slip yoke so I had to retap the hole with new threads for a new grease fitting. When putting the slip yoke back on the driveshaft I pushed it all the way on and allowed the grease gun to fill it with grease and push it back into position. Now I'm 100% sure there is plenty of grease. I then greased all the rest of the fittings on the front and rear driveshaft until I saw the nice red Mobile 1 Synthetic push through. I noticed there are is a pivot point on the double cardon and front u-joint that do not push out grease. Nothing I can do about the double cardon but I may have to take a closer look at the front u-joint.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Did you hit all 3 grease fittings on the double Cardan joint?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97006-drive-prop-shaft-greasing-guide.html
-Charlie
Novashards
Member
Yes, that one in the center was hard to get a good angle on but I got it in the end.
Novashards
Member
So I am in the middle of a bunch of work on the car, waiting on a few parts to arrive to finish up. I am doing the timing belt & misc parts, water pump, oil cooler gaskets and hoses, heater core, and complete a/c rebuild.
The timing is mostly done and as suspected the previous owner used a generic kit last time the timing was done, no brands or numbers marked on anything, not even the bearings, even the timing belt was completely blank. I replaced everything with this kit. I also replaced the thermostat again since everything was apart. I replaced both camshaft seals and the crankshaft seal. I also used a new crankshaft pulley bolt and woodruff key. When taking parts off I noticed the timing belt tensioner pulley bearing and the fan bracket bearing were both making alot of noise. I also noticed that the old camshaft seals appeared to be sticking out a bit, is this normal?
Pro Tip: when putting the timing back together leave the tensioner only halfway bolted in, this will allow the tensioner pulley to rock back further and allow the timing belt to slip on easily. Then tighten the tension bolts the rest of the way.
Aisin TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
Toyota 90119-16006 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
Toyota 90280-05005 - Key Wood Ruff
Genuine Toyota 90311-38051 Type-T Camshaft Oil Seal
Genuine Toyota 90311-40022 Type-T Engine Crankshaft Oil Seal
I wasn't expecting to replace the fan bracket so I attempted to disassemble it.
The fan bracket bearings are NOT replaceable!
As has been mentioned previously a lip of the bracket is holding the bearing in and breaks off when pressing out the bearing and rod. When attempting to press the rod out of the bearings the assembly explodes due to the way the ball bearings on one side ride in a channel in both the rod side and outside bearing race. Luckily due to the sketchy nature of what I was attempting, I was shielded behind a makeshift blast shield when the outer race let go. The other side has needle bearings it looks like.
A new Aisin fan bracket from amazon is now on the way.
Aisin FBT-004 Fan Pulley Bracket
The timing is mostly done and as suspected the previous owner used a generic kit last time the timing was done, no brands or numbers marked on anything, not even the bearings, even the timing belt was completely blank. I replaced everything with this kit. I also replaced the thermostat again since everything was apart. I replaced both camshaft seals and the crankshaft seal. I also used a new crankshaft pulley bolt and woodruff key. When taking parts off I noticed the timing belt tensioner pulley bearing and the fan bracket bearing were both making alot of noise. I also noticed that the old camshaft seals appeared to be sticking out a bit, is this normal?
Pro Tip: when putting the timing back together leave the tensioner only halfway bolted in, this will allow the tensioner pulley to rock back further and allow the timing belt to slip on easily. Then tighten the tension bolts the rest of the way.
Aisin TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
Toyota 90119-16006 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
Toyota 90280-05005 - Key Wood Ruff
Genuine Toyota 90311-38051 Type-T Camshaft Oil Seal
Genuine Toyota 90311-40022 Type-T Engine Crankshaft Oil Seal
I wasn't expecting to replace the fan bracket so I attempted to disassemble it.
The fan bracket bearings are NOT replaceable!
As has been mentioned previously a lip of the bracket is holding the bearing in and breaks off when pressing out the bearing and rod. When attempting to press the rod out of the bearings the assembly explodes due to the way the ball bearings on one side ride in a channel in both the rod side and outside bearing race. Luckily due to the sketchy nature of what I was attempting, I was shielded behind a makeshift blast shield when the outer race let go. The other side has needle bearings it looks like.
A new Aisin fan bracket from amazon is now on the way.
Aisin FBT-004 Fan Pulley Bracket
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Novashards
Member
Replacing the oil cooler gaskets and hoses proved to be quite a challenge. I used these threads to help;
Oil cooler O-Ring and Seal Replacement Video and info thread
UPCOMING: Oil Cooler Gasket Replacement
Unfortunately I didn't realize that the guy who made the video in the first thread doesn't have 4wd and the front differential is directly in the way. It makes it hell to reach the oil cooler. I decided to try anyway. I managed to get the 24mm bolt loose easily enough. Getting the hoses unclamped was VERY difficult due to access issues requiring you to have three extra joints, super long arms, and working by feel alone. I still managed to get them all off and both hoses are replaced with new ones. I had picked up the replacement gaskets from the local toyota dealer and found that they gave me the wrong parts. I have to wait til tomorrow to get the correct parts and put it back together. The old cooler-block gasket was rock hard and had to be chipped out with picks slowly, piece by piece. I also found that the cooler inlet from the block was almost completely blocked by crap. I dug it all out and flushed it through from the opposite side. It appears to be flowing freely and clean now. The little I could see of the oil side of the cooler looked clean. Is there anything else I should do to flush or clean it before reassembly tomorrow?
The correct gaskets for an automatic 3.4L are;
90210-22001 block-cooler
90301-67004 cooler bolt washer
TOYOTA 3.4L/5VZ-FE OIL COOLER GASKET KIT KIT-1036B
Oil cooler hoses;
Genuine Toyota 15778-62030 Oil Cooler Hose Thermostat housing to oil cooler hose
Genuine Toyota 15777-62020 Oil Cooler Hose Block to oil cooler hose
Oil cooler O-Ring and Seal Replacement Video and info thread
UPCOMING: Oil Cooler Gasket Replacement
Unfortunately I didn't realize that the guy who made the video in the first thread doesn't have 4wd and the front differential is directly in the way. It makes it hell to reach the oil cooler. I decided to try anyway. I managed to get the 24mm bolt loose easily enough. Getting the hoses unclamped was VERY difficult due to access issues requiring you to have three extra joints, super long arms, and working by feel alone. I still managed to get them all off and both hoses are replaced with new ones. I had picked up the replacement gaskets from the local toyota dealer and found that they gave me the wrong parts. I have to wait til tomorrow to get the correct parts and put it back together. The old cooler-block gasket was rock hard and had to be chipped out with picks slowly, piece by piece. I also found that the cooler inlet from the block was almost completely blocked by crap. I dug it all out and flushed it through from the opposite side. It appears to be flowing freely and clean now. The little I could see of the oil side of the cooler looked clean. Is there anything else I should do to flush or clean it before reassembly tomorrow?
The correct gaskets for an automatic 3.4L are;
90210-22001 block-cooler
90301-67004 cooler bolt washer
TOYOTA 3.4L/5VZ-FE OIL COOLER GASKET KIT KIT-1036B
Oil cooler hoses;
Genuine Toyota 15778-62030 Oil Cooler Hose Thermostat housing to oil cooler hose
Genuine Toyota 15777-62020 Oil Cooler Hose Block to oil cooler hose
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Looks like your truck had a hard life of no coolant changes for a long time. As long as you keep the oil side of the cooler clean, you should be fine.
-Charlie
Novashards
Member
Yeah, the first time I flushed the cooling system last year when I replaced the radiator I found that the coolant looked like water (probably not distilled) with a very slight green tinge to it. And I had to flush tons of crap out of both heater cores with hose and air compressor. I was able to get the rear heat working but the front heat has been lackluster at best. So I am replacing the heater core as well during this batch of car work.
I have the oil cooler soaking in acetone for a day or so and then I'll flush it with mineral spirits and blow it out with an air compressor to make sure the insides are all clean before reinstall tomorrow.
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Novashards
Member
I finished with the complete A/C system rebuild. I used these threads for guidance;
DIY Complete AC Replacement on 2000 T4R Limited
How to remove the entire dash
Heater core removal
I started with all the items in the engine bay, replacing all o-rings as I went. I dumped the oil out of the new compressor and replaced it with 100cc of the PAG dye oil. I then attached the old manifold to the new compressor and installed it. Then I moved on to the monumental task of removing the dash and replacing the parts and o-rings underneath. I replaced the heater core as well while I had it all apart. Surprisingly I was able to get the dash and everything back together without any extra nuts or bolts. I would say that removing the dash really isn't that difficult, just tedious and you have to be very organized with screws and such as you remove them. I replaced the drier last to minimize it's exposure to moisture in the air. After I put everything back together initially I was worried because it lost it's negative pressure within 30 minutes but I tried again and closed all valves leading to the pump from the gauges before turning off the vacuum pump and it held the pressure overnight. I assume the check valve in my harbor freight vacuum pump is bad. All it will need now is to be charged with R-134a.
I'm still waiting on the replacement fan bracket and the correct oil cooler gaskets.
I used these parts;
Denso 477-0518 Condenser
Denso 471-1164 New Compressor with Clutch
Denso 476-0019 A/C Evaporator Core
Denso 478-0500 Receiver Drier
Denso 475-0505 Expansion Valve
NEW Denso OEM A/C Pressure Switch Lexus Toyota Mitsubishi 88645-04040 34010
FJC 2493 PAG Oil - 8 fl. oz.
Four Seasons 26749 O-Ring
Spectra Premium 99287 Heater Core
DIY Complete AC Replacement on 2000 T4R Limited
How to remove the entire dash
Heater core removal
I started with all the items in the engine bay, replacing all o-rings as I went. I dumped the oil out of the new compressor and replaced it with 100cc of the PAG dye oil. I then attached the old manifold to the new compressor and installed it. Then I moved on to the monumental task of removing the dash and replacing the parts and o-rings underneath. I replaced the heater core as well while I had it all apart. Surprisingly I was able to get the dash and everything back together without any extra nuts or bolts. I would say that removing the dash really isn't that difficult, just tedious and you have to be very organized with screws and such as you remove them. I replaced the drier last to minimize it's exposure to moisture in the air. After I put everything back together initially I was worried because it lost it's negative pressure within 30 minutes but I tried again and closed all valves leading to the pump from the gauges before turning off the vacuum pump and it held the pressure overnight. I assume the check valve in my harbor freight vacuum pump is bad. All it will need now is to be charged with R-134a.
I'm still waiting on the replacement fan bracket and the correct oil cooler gaskets.
I used these parts;
Denso 477-0518 Condenser
Denso 471-1164 New Compressor with Clutch
Denso 476-0019 A/C Evaporator Core
Denso 478-0500 Receiver Drier
Denso 475-0505 Expansion Valve
NEW Denso OEM A/C Pressure Switch Lexus Toyota Mitsubishi 88645-04040 34010
FJC 2493 PAG Oil - 8 fl. oz.
Four Seasons 26749 O-Ring
Spectra Premium 99287 Heater Core
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Novashards
Member
So the fan bracket and oil cooler gaskets finally came in. The oil cooler has been soaking in acetone so I flushed it out with mineral spirits, and then blew it out with an air compressor. I then flushed the coolant side again with toyota coolant. It was just as difficult to get the oil cooler back in place, attach the hoses, and move the clamps into position but I managed eventually and tightened the 24mm bolt with new gasket as well.
I installed the nice new fan bracket and put everything else back together from doing the timing. I mixed 50/50 toyota red coolant and distilled water and topped off the cooling system and started it. I must say I have never heard my engine this quiet. I did not realize how much noise the bad bearings in the timing belt tensioner pulley and the fan bracket were making until after they were replaced. Now the loudest thing on my engine by far is the injectors clicking away.
I then hooked up the vacuum pump and manifold gauges to the a/c system and confirmed that it was still holding a vacuum. The sticker on my 2000 Limited says 1.32lbs-1.54lbs (21.12oz-24.64oz) of refrigerant. Everything checked out so I Hooked added ~22oz-23oz of r-134a. I had left the radiator cap off to vent air bubbles from the cooling system. I then put the vehicle up on a ramp with the front end much higher to aid in purging the air from the cooling system. Checking the A/C a thermometer in the center vents said the A/C got down 39 degrees and the heat got up to 119 degrees at idle. It appears everything is working very well now.
Thanks to all of the people who have posted guides on how to do certain repairs on these 4runners. I don't think I would have felt up to the multitude of repairs I just completed if I didn't have such a wealth of knowledge available to me.
I installed the nice new fan bracket and put everything else back together from doing the timing. I mixed 50/50 toyota red coolant and distilled water and topped off the cooling system and started it. I must say I have never heard my engine this quiet. I did not realize how much noise the bad bearings in the timing belt tensioner pulley and the fan bracket were making until after they were replaced. Now the loudest thing on my engine by far is the injectors clicking away.
I then hooked up the vacuum pump and manifold gauges to the a/c system and confirmed that it was still holding a vacuum. The sticker on my 2000 Limited says 1.32lbs-1.54lbs (21.12oz-24.64oz) of refrigerant. Everything checked out so I Hooked added ~22oz-23oz of r-134a. I had left the radiator cap off to vent air bubbles from the cooling system. I then put the vehicle up on a ramp with the front end much higher to aid in purging the air from the cooling system. Checking the A/C a thermometer in the center vents said the A/C got down 39 degrees and the heat got up to 119 degrees at idle. It appears everything is working very well now.
Thanks to all of the people who have posted guides on how to do certain repairs on these 4runners. I don't think I would have felt up to the multitude of repairs I just completed if I didn't have such a wealth of knowledge available to me.
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Novashards
Member
WWRD99
New member
Really enjoyed reading everything you did...Definitely got a nice 4runner. From everything you've done you're obviously not new to doing this stuff...I did have a question with the ac fill...did you use the site glass on the receiver dryer hose? I know it's an old school way to see if the charge level is spot on...I find it easy to use too...the gauges don't lie though as new cars don't use those.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
ToyotaBrah
Member
Really like what you've done so far and that you have been documenting everything! I think I will replace my fan bracket as well when I am doing the t-belt job. I'm sure it is tired from 250K of service.
Novashards
Member
I actually hadn't heard of the sight glass method and had to Google it.
I had two 12oz bottles and used a scale to see how much was remaining in the second bottle to get pretty close to the target. Technically the sticker on my 4runner says it could've taken all of both bottles but it would have been right at the max so I aimed for the mid-ground.
WWRD99
New member
Oh Ok!! glad you found it...I use that and pressures High n Low on how much I put in there...really the lbs the system calls for from the factory is very generic...especially on these older non swash systems...you can overcharge or under charge by a 1/3 pound easy,,,,the system will still work but not to the best of its current condition...being you did a bunch of new stuff the vacuum process would be very important...45 minute vacuum time easy...you can watch your sight glass now and see where it sits! :surfer::surfer:
