Nagging Steering / Brake Problem!
- Thread starter cbr900boy
- Start date
cbr900boy
New member
So activate the abs and bleed the master cylinder or normal system bleed?
cbr900boy
New member
Come on LittleCaesar, work your magic and give me the magic answer like you did for my fuel pump. Do you mean the steering rack guide mod? If so I did it before the TBU.
Tuxedo Runner
Member
Ok, wild thought here. Since you said this happens when you press the breaks firmly and not when you press slowly. Maybe it cold be a break fluid flow problem. If there is something restricting your break line on the side that isn't pulling, it could restrict the amount of fluid moving to the caliper causing it to pull to the other side when you break sharply but wouldn't have an effect while breaking slowly. This type of thing can happen in aircraft while actuating the landing gear. Just something else to think about since you seem to have tried everything else.
LittleCaesar
New member
I wish it could be that easy. If you have replaced all brake hardware I'd assume the problem doesn't lie there, though I would make sure there is ample space where the backing plate needs to be trimmed for the Tundra caliper and the caliper bolts are torqued to 90 ft/lbs.
The reason I ask about the steering rack upgrade is that I have read where a few members here and on YT have had different issues after performing such. Notchy steering to brakes grabbing are symptoms that come to mind. With the increased braking ability with the TBU, any potential problems with the upgrade may not have been apparent using the stock calipers. I think BrianSD_42 actually did the steering rack upgrade and then went back to stock. Can't remember why, may want to PM him. Since I haven't done this myself, it is just a theory.
How are the rear shoes looking BTW?
The reason I ask about the steering rack upgrade is that I have read where a few members here and on YT have had different issues after performing such. Notchy steering to brakes grabbing are symptoms that come to mind. With the increased braking ability with the TBU, any potential problems with the upgrade may not have been apparent using the stock calipers. I think BrianSD_42 actually did the steering rack upgrade and then went back to stock. Can't remember why, may want to PM him. Since I haven't done this myself, it is just a theory.
How are the rear shoes looking BTW?
IBallEngineer
New member
St Runner
Member
Yes a full system bleed or just the wheel that is soft. From what I have read engaging the abs dislodges any trapped air in the abs system which could then be bled out. The master cylinder is balanced front and rear so unless it was an obstruction I don't think that would be the problem with your right/left issues. Everything I immediately thought of to be the problem you had already taken care of
I had the same symptoms when the flex hose went on my Volvo.
cbr900boy
New member
New OEM Toyota, only has about 3k miles on them.
cbr900boy
New member
I've got a funny story about this place, for my first alignment I went to a Toyota Specialist (LEX Mastertech) here in Pasadena. These guys are top notch, and they also do alignments. It took them 1.5 hours to align my rig. They are not cheap cause it was $120. For my next alignment, I took it to Island Tires and the guy did it in about 25 min, the best part...$65.
IBallEngineer
New member
There is a saying in the automotive repair industry, mostly applies the auto body world but here goes:
Cheap
Good
Fast
Pick any two! You can't have them all.
:boom:
very true on above on master cylinder. the lines are front and back, I stand corrected. Ive worked on so many cars lost track on these when I wrote many posts ago
Don't know if there is a write-up on how to engage the abs when bleeding. maybe this is why some people take their T4R to the dealer to be bleed. ( or so I have read)
maybe that is where the problem lies
wonder if the abs sender (?) on the wheel. can cause this on hard braking....clean and inspect ?
I don't really know the answer,,,,just trying to help you through which in turn some day will help others and my knowledge base
cbr900boy
New member
Based on some searches, I think it's worth a shot for me to somehow engage the ABS to purge air bubbles (if I have them) from the system, then do a full bleed. I've actually called a Toyota specialist who has the SST that engages the ABS through the ECM for this very reason. However, he wasn't sure if my 98 is capable of it. It's not easy for me to access a dirt road around my house to engage the ABS and then immediately bleed the brakes.
cbr900boy
New member
I'm not familiar with this method, can you explain?
Jhelms
New member
Really not feeling that this is brake related but could be.
In my case, I replaced the full brake system and it is VERY well bled, front and back running 1 full quart of fluid through each line to flush the system. I did this as standard maintenance since I was doing the TBU, but the problem is identicle as it was before changing out all brake components but the master.
Also, if you want to bleed the brakes quickly and easily, simply buy speed bleeders. They work VERY well.
In my case, I replaced the full brake system and it is VERY well bled, front and back running 1 full quart of fluid through each line to flush the system. I did this as standard maintenance since I was doing the TBU, but the problem is identicle as it was before changing out all brake components but the master.
Also, if you want to bleed the brakes quickly and easily, simply buy speed bleeders. They work VERY well.
St Runner
Member
you need two people. one person sits in the vehicle, pumps the brakes a few times and holds the pedal. The other person loosens the bleed valve until the pedal drops to the floor and the pressure drops and then tightens the bleed valve before the pedal is released. The key is not to release the pedal until you tighten the bleed valve, so when the pedal is released it pulls fluid from the master cylinder and not air back into the caliper. There needs to be some communication back and forth so you hear a lot of pump! hold! ok! This is the way it was done before speed bleeders.
cbr900boy
New member
Ohhhh, I misunderstood your post. I thought you were referring to a way to activate the ABS system while on stands. I used to do it the old fashioned way but came across a post by BFAD and now I do it solo. This mod works on my 2001 as well as my 1998, both years have completely different braking systems.
D Farms
New member
if you havent already, check all of your rear suspension bushings, I can almost guarantee thats what it is. a while ago my upper link ate a bushing, and it was just metal on metal, which caused it to swerve when braking. there was another thread about it somewhere. the only option really is to get a new arm, there is a set of poly bushings but they are from australia for a 90 series and will take a long time to get to you.
