Narrowing down rear shocks - Tundra, LC, etc.

[tre9er]

OK, I know I've been posting a lot of threads about suspension lifts. I've found a lot of info searching and reading build threads (something I recommend newbies do, as lots of info is in there as guys figure things out as they go).

Today I did some searching because I'm trying to just figure out the last bit of my lift. I'm going to run 99 talls with a 1.5" daystar spacer in the rear for ~2.5" lift (maybe more on my 2001). I was all ready to get the LC rear shocks when I started thinking about compressed length and realizing that if I ever DID stuff a rear, I'd bottom the shock before the bumpstops hit. Now, I could extend the bumps, but I know the Tundra rears have a shorter compressed length while still having at least 2" longer extended length.

All I'm trying to figure out now is the fitment of the tundra rear shocks. Are the lower bushings .75 or do I need to replace them like with the LCs? Is the upper stud the proper diameter or do I have to drill out my stock upper mount? I don't particularly want to do this...

Otherwise I'll go eye-eye shocks and weld in the adapter. In that case I need a shock that has a similar shorter compressed length and extended length to that of the Tundra.

TIA, and TGIF :cheers::reddance::fishing:arty:

 

[downpour11]

Are the lower bushings .75 or do I need to replace them like with the LCs?
:

Replace bushings like the LC's? Not sure what you mean? LC shocks come with new bushings and they fit fine.

 

[tre9er]

Replace bushings like the LC's? Not sure what you mean? LC shocks come with new bushings and they fit fine.

Hmmm, so it's the Tundra rears that require pressing out and replacing the lower bushings? The ones that comes with 0.5", that all the threads about pressing them out and pressing new ones in...are about...?

Essentially I want to know if the Tundra lowers need modifying and/or if the stock upper mount requires it.

So the LCs are direct bolt? I thought I read the upper stud was larger in diameter (below)

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ghlander-edition-4x4-build-4.html#post1241718

 

[sschaefer3]

I know the Tundra rears have a shorter compressed length while still having at least 2" longer extended length.

You could not be more wrong.

The Tundra 5100 for the 1st gen Tundra rear, 4th Gen 4R 5th Gen 4R and FJC rear 5100 and the Factory LC80 rear shocks are all 9" travel. They are within millimeters of each other extended and compressed.

What is different is the valving.

Where are you getting your info from?

OME is 1" over stock extended, same as stock compressed, this group above is 3.5" over stock.

 

[tre9er]

You could not be more wrong.

The Tundra 5100 for the 1st gen Tundra rear, 4th Gen 4R 5th Gen 4R and FJC rear 5100 and the Factory LC80 rear shocks are all 9" travel. They are within millimeters of each other extended and compressed.

What is different is the valving.

Where are you getting your info from?

OME is 1" over stock extended, same as stock compressed, this group above is 3.5" over stock.

I meant 2" more up travel over stock on the Tundras. Sorry for not being clear. (edit, I'm an idiot. I mixed up my terms, up and down travel. Was thinking down meant frame comes down, not axle goes down.)

On the compressed lengths, I guess I shouldn't trust info from the internet, but a guy had measured them and reported the Tundra rears were shorter when compressed than the FJ80s.

 

[downpour11]

So the LCs are direct bolt? I thought I read the upper stud was larger in diameter and I guess I thought the lower bushings were 0.5"...

I don't know much about the tundras - I've never run them. But for the LC's, you might have just read it wrong. The thread IS slightly bigger in diameter, but that's irrelevant. The only issue is the thread is longer, hence having to stack two washers so you're able to tighten the nut to properly mount them. They fit perfectly fine in the mounting locations. So yeah, it's a direct bolt, in if you would. The LC's come with all bushings and hardware, you'll just have to go to a hardware store and spend less than a dollar on 4 washers (IIRC 5/8" or 1/2", grade 8 of course). No biggie.

 

[sschaefer3]

I meant 2" more up travel over stock on the Tundras. Sorry for not being clear.

All 3 of those 9" travel shocks have a longer body than stock, so they have less up travel but considerable more down travel.

So no none of those have 2" more up travel, they actually have less up travel. They have 3.5" more down travel over stock.

 

[downpour11]

You could not be more wrong.

The Tundra 5100 for the 1st gen Tundra rear, 4th Gen 4R 5th Gen 4R and FJC rear 5100 and the Factory LC80 rear shocks are all 9" travel. They are within millimeters of each other extended and compressed.

What is different is the valving.

Where are you getting your info from?

OME is 1" over stock extended, same as stock compressed, this group above is 3.5" over stock.

Hey Steve- you recommend adding a shock top washer (can't remember the name for them) for the LC's right? I just took the cheaper way out and stacked two grade 8 washers.. lol

 

[tre9er]

All 3 of those 9" travel shocks have a longer body than stock, so they have less up travel but considerable more down travel.

So no none of those have 2" more up travel, they actually have less up travel. They have 3.5" more down travel over stock.

I'm an idiot, mixing up my terminology. :frusty:

 

[sschaefer3]

The thread IS slightly bigger in diameter, but that's irrelevant.

It is not irrelevant. The stock home is for a 10mm shaft the LC shocks use a 14mm shaft. Stick a 14mm shaft in a hole made for a 10mm shaft and it can not move. What happens then is the frame hole hogs out and becomes ovulated. Requiring fabrication/welding to repair.

You have to remember I know what happens when these parts have been installed for many many years, stated doing this in 1999 most posters here only know what happens in a few months or a year or so.

 

[tre9er]

It is not irrelevant. The stock home is for a 10mm shaft the LC shocks use a 14mm shaft. Stick a 14mm shaft in a hole made for a 10mm shaft and it can not move. What happens then is the frame hole hogs out and becomes ovulated. Requiring fabrication/welding to repair.

You have to remember I know what happens when these parts have been installed for many many years, stated doing this in 1999 most posters here only know what happens in a few months or a year or so.

So you're saying it IS recommended to bore out the upper mounting hole? I guess that means I'm stuck with FJ80 shocks or welding an eye mount bracket on if I want to change down the road, eh?

 

[sschaefer3]

Hey Steve- you recommend adding a shock top washer (can't remember the name for them) for the LC's right? I just took the cheaper way out and stacked two grade 8 washers.. lol

No, we enlarge the hole, use a centering cup and don't stack anything. You get full movement and everything works as designed for years and years.

If you just stick the shock through the hole it will float around in the hole and wear one side of the frame or one side of the shaft.

Search OME rear shock stud breaks. That has been happening for years.

I have to get back to work.

 

[sschaefer3]

So you're saying it IS recommended to bore out the upper mounting hole? I guess that means I'm stuck with FJ80 shocks or welding an eye mount bracket on if I want to change down the road, eh?

No there are a lot of shocks even some from Bilstein that will still bolt in. Like 4th gen, 5th gen FJC stuff.

They all interchange in the modified mount.

 

[tre9er]

No, we enlarge the hole, use a centering cup and don't stack anything. You get full movement and everything works as designed for years and years.

If you just stick the shock through the hole it will float around in the hole and wear one side of the frame or one side of the shaft.

Search OME rear shock stud breaks. That has been happening for years.

I have to get back to work.

No, wait! What's a centering cup??!? I'm guessing it's a washer with a little lip in the center that fits into the mounting hole? I can't find info on it.

edit: here is more on those centering cups:

you've seen this thread right? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129104-attn-anyone-running-oem-black-tokico-80-series-lc-shocks-rear.html

These are what I was referring to in the other thread. You can buy it from the dealership, but they want an arm and a leg for it. These are the centering washers: (Permalink) http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129104-attn-anyone-running-oem-black-tokico-80-series-lc-shocks-rear.html#post1229570 BUT they don't fit on top of our top shock mounts without boring it out. BFAD ended up using 3rd gen centering washers.

$68 worth of washers to make the LC rears mount like they would have stock... :wtf: