Need advice - Aiming for 35's and new wheels. Trying to avoid mistakes.

[having fun]

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] I knew what I was getting into reading others doing this. Even at that, no runner is symmetrically evenly built. Put the same components on, adjusted at the same marks, and all will read different numbers.
Was easier with the SPCs for sure, but, blowing out BJs in 20k was not an option anymore.

With the Camburgs, I've only been able to get 1.3-1.6 at 0 camber. Even when I was using 885s. I prefer to keep the camber number around there, tires cost too much. I have a shop that will play around with what I want instead of going for caster, with me on the sideline.

Your correct on size STT Pros 34.57 on factory rims + spacers.
They had a challenge this time. I have a full 3" in the rear, and decided to put 886 coils in(v6). It push my front close to 4", almost level, no rake. Still no CV bind. No BL either.
Had them max the rear cams into the frame to get the tires of the BM chop. .5" Still have a slight rub on BM left side and slight contact on control arm same side.
L R
Caster 2.3 1.36
Camber .26 .47

This was the lowest the Camber would go.
I can live with it not wearing tires out. I'm used to the driving it's doing, hell, drive a big rig (occupation), this steers like a Cadillac with these number to me.

 

[ThrillerR1]

Toyo MTs are HEAVY, soft tires, you're going to want a proper suspension to control that unsprung weight or those tires will be ruined very easily.

The problem with a spacer lift is that you're going to need closer to 5 degrees of Caster to get those 35's to clear away from the body mount (even chopped) and back of the fender. With a spacer lift you're going to be lucky to hit high 3's without sacrificing Camber (which will chew up your tires). Even then you'd need a good set of UCA's that you won't be fighting to get closer to 5 degrees of Caster, my SPCs were very adjustable but getting them to 5.5 was struggle.

I'd go ahead and toss any assumptions of having full lock to lock out of the window, that's something that's tricky to guarantee with 33's and even trickier with 35's because of suspension geometry. Just to give you an idea, my old set-up with SPC UCAs and about 5.5 degrees of Caster was rubbing the sway bar at full lock. My new set-up with the Camburg UCAs is rubbing on the sway bar and actually slightly the UCA itself at full lock. Not a big deal, but I need to make/weld a 3/4~1" spacer on the steering stop ends to stop nicking the pretty powdercoating on my UCAs. That's with a LT35x12.15R17 Toyo Open Country R/T on 17x9 -12 Offset (4.5 Backspacing) Fuel D564 Beast Wheel.

1.5" body lift is what I'm running as well, I made mine, but it'll work none the less. The main point comes down to your suspension, it's not going to do a good job supporting the 35's. It's probably not going to snap anything under normal driving unless you hit some potholes, but those factory shocks or even 5100's just won't do a good job controlling those heavy tires. From what I've seen, those tires will get cupped and chewed up in under 5k, particularly the Toyo Open Country M/Ts; they're a very soft tire as I mentioned before, so chalking them is critical to get a good pressure and good suspension to control the unsprung weight will go a long way.

Would the Toytech Boss or Ultimate 2.5 with .5" spacer do the trick suspension wise?

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I'm not familar with the Toytec stuff these days, they've actually changed a bit in the last five or so years. But assuming the dampening is tuned right and the springs are tuned as well it should work. I'd check with Toytec to be sure. Why do you think you need a .5" spacer on it?

 

[MrSeth]

The real question you need to ask yourself is- am I going to actually wheel this thing? Or just drive forest service/dirt roads and keep it on the street?

This will help you determine which path you take. Either way- the best of luck to you and your endeavors!!!

 

[ThrillerR1]

I'm not familar with the Toytec stuff these days, they've actually changed a bit in the last five or so years. But assuming the dampening is tuned right and the springs are tuned as well it should work. I'd check with Toytec to be sure. Why do you think you need a .5" spacer on it?

Honestly, I'm copying the suspensions setups I've seen from others who have 35" tires. Toytech is a 30 minute drive from me though so I'll pick their brains about it.

 

[ThrillerR1]

The real question you need to ask yourself is- am I going to actually wheel this thing? Or just drive forest service/dirt roads and keep it on the street?

This will help you determine which path you take. Either way- the best of luck to you and your endeavors!!!

It'll be wheeled. I hit pretty much every trail in CO that wasn't listed as "vehicle damage certain", in my old Rubicon and plan to do the same with this 4Runner. Plus more out of state and expedition style stuff.

 

[pjku79]

Glad to read these types of posts. Once I finally get my lift installed, I am going to start looking for larger tires (my wife needs new tires so I am going to give her my skinnies).

 

[dkyleb]

Step 1: Install lift.

Step 2: Start cutting. Repeat as necessary.

I wheel hard every weekend, and only occasionally rub at full flex/lock.

 

[CruzadoBlanco]

i run the original toytec boss front coilovers set at 1.5 inches of lift and have a 2 inch lift spacer on top of them to get the last bit of lift i need. i hated how stiff they were when i got them. but i clear my 35x12.50's just fine with my 3.5 inches of suspension lift and 1 inch body lift. just be prepared to cut a ton of front fender and body mount to get them to fit correctly.

 

[MrSeth]

[MENTION=124121]dkyleb[/MENTION] you are 100% correct. Get ready to cut.

 

[dkyleb]

[MENTION=124121]dkyleb[/MENTION] you are 100% correct. Get ready to cut.

I like yer fenders.