Need end Links for New Lift & Sway Bars
- Thread starter WhiteManFlail
- Start date
Terminator03
New member
Some great options, thanks! Are the relocation brackets needed for a 2” front lift? Also, in the rear, I plan to just use the OME 2895E springs, so I most likely shouldn’t need longer links there, or is it still recommended?
BackOff
New member
I did the rears at 1.5" spacer lift. Some guys don't ever do it at all.
I felt it lessened the tension on the rear suspension allowing it to move around better.
On the front the relocate moves it about a half inch down but also move it about 1 inch forward, to get the ends of the swaybar away from the shock.
Some just pull the front sway bar off and ditch it.
I have had my front on and off and on and off and on and...OFF. I like it better off. Seems to be personal pref and how you drive. The looser it is the better it is off-road...its a give and take.
Terminator03
New member
Thanks for the help, and great explanation! Do you know if there is any sketches with dimensions for those relocation brackets? They seem pretty simple to make, but I’d prefer to make them up and have them ready to go before pulling things apart if possible. I’m sure I could design them once it’s apart, but no sense re-inventing the wheel if the info is already out there. I hear you about ditching them altogether which makes perfect sense for off roading, but mine is almost entirely street driven so for now I’d like to just set the geometry to work correctly for that purpose.
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+1 on this. I didn't know it at the time since they were black and "looked" like they had some sort of coating. Nope. They have surface rust like crazy. It's ridiculous.
2.5yrs since my original post in this thread when I installed them and I don't remember when it started to show rust just from daily driving usage.
Terminator03
New member
Thank you for the pic and dimensions! I am just seeing it now because I forgot to check back in this thread again after posting that.
grave
Senior Member
Bringing this thread back... is there any reason to go with sway bar links other than OEM? I have a 3" lift and they're pretty worn out after 170K on the clock. I need all four but all I ever read about the fronts is disconnect them or relocate them, which I don't think I need to do. I like what [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] is putting out, but what makes them better than OEM?
OEM is life.
OEM is life.
Terminator03
New member
From my experience you shouldn’t use any aftermarket ones that use spherical bearings, unless they are sealed, and/or you don’t mind regularly greasing them. Even with lube they will wear out with a daily driven vehicle due to water, sand, etc., especially in off-road vehicles. I’ve built numerous cars with them over the years, and always use Teflon lined versions, as well as dust seals, but the cars I use them on are NOT daily drivers, they are hot rods/garage queens seeing very little mileage, and no rain, salt, etc.
That being said, I personally went with the 2nd gen rears as mentioned in this thread when I installed my new suspension components. The old ones had cracked rubber, and they needed to be cut off because they were rusted so badly anyway. I did have to reuse a couple of the stock cupped washers as mentioned, maybe because the 2nd gen had a slightly different mounting for the top? Other than that, they work great. If you need to replace the links anyway, and you’re lifted, it’s a no-brainer. I still haven’t done the front links yet because I haven’t don’t the suspension there just yet. I’ll most likely just buy stock replacements and use the spacer blocks once I take it apart.
MStudt
official vendor
It's no skin off my back either way you go. I've always been open to answer questions, and on giving my honest opinion on links.
Ive been running my own links for over 4 years with zero issues, and I'm using heim boots as well. I've never had to oil/lube them or perform any maintenance on them. Often times when people lube heim joints with Teflon races they're actually doing more harm than good. Heim joints with Teflon races are designed to be self lubricating, and using some lubes on the will only help to break them down faster. There is specific lube for these, and I believe Camburg sells it. You can also use DuPont Teflon Non Stick lube, and that's by far the best. You'll also want to know how to properly clean them, and to know when the clean them. You may notice some stiction on them, and this is when the heim joint has resistance in the movement, and requires a bit a force to move. If that happens that is when they should be cleaned, and cleaning them correctly will help the issue. Just simply lubing them up will do you no good.
Another benefit is that my links are completely rebuildable, and that is cheaper than buying new links. I also stand behind mine for a year.
Many people run oem links with no issues, and there's nothing wrong with that. The most important thing is to make sure you're getting you sway back to its intended position. By getting the rear sway bar parallel with the lca you'll be able to get the most out of the rear suspension.
Just my .02.
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grave
Senior Member
Are the 2G links longer? Why are they a “no-brainer” if my truck is lifted? Why does the length of the links make such a difference?
MStudt
official vendor
Sway bars are designed to work at a specific degree related to your control arms. When that isn't in spec you lose performance. As you raise or heaven forbid lower your 4runner your suspension will suffer.
That's why I mentioned in my first post that you really need to get the rear sway bar parallel with the lca. You can't do that on the front due to the suspension design. The sway bar can only move so far before it'll contact you cv, and cause damage.
2nd Gen links are used on 3rd Gen's as well, but on the front. They work well, but they still have limitations to them. The rear is when you want to get as close the parallel as you can since 85% of you body roll comes from there. The front will be limited by the cv no matter what you do.
Mullett757
New member
I'm about to put in all new shocks and springs all around next and was thinking about doing all the links while It was all apart. the ones that are in there are still working fine but I can see the rubber starting to crack from age (factory original 2004 with 125k on it). Which ones would yall recommend I get since I'm putting 5100 and superflexs in the back? (im not making my own before someone mentions that)
L8Shift
Member
I am going with the 2nd Gen rear end links for the 06 V8, 3 / 2".
Sourced from Proforged.
Proforged - Severe Duty Chassis Parts
https://www.amazon.com/Proforged-11...533227985&sr=1-1&keywords=Proforged+113-10144
As other folks have said, the 2nd gen end link is long enough to level out the sway bar on a 4Gen.
It comes in what appears to be powder coating, and is engraved with the markings. (not a shiny chrome piece, as depicted in Amazon)
I swapped out the rubber grommets for Energy Suspension stuff.
Sourced from Proforged.
Proforged - Severe Duty Chassis Parts
https://www.amazon.com/Proforged-11...533227985&sr=1-1&keywords=Proforged+113-10144
As other folks have said, the 2nd gen end link is long enough to level out the sway bar on a 4Gen.
It comes in what appears to be powder coating, and is engraved with the markings. (not a shiny chrome piece, as depicted in Amazon)
I swapped out the rubber grommets for Energy Suspension stuff.
Attachments
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Terminator03
New member
Damn, I wish I saw those before getting my 2nd genomes through Autozone. Those are a lot cheaper!
Mullett757
New member
did it matter what year you used or would anyone from 90-95 work? im about to order them since mine are pretty much shot and I just put 2in toytec springs in the back
BackOff
New member
That would be in the 2nd generation range. So yes.
And to grave...the 2nd gen rears are 1" longer than 4th gen.
MStudt's links would get you to a perfect place as you can adjust them to your particular lift...the 2nd gen links get you close for cheap. You break one your out what $15-$20?...I have yet to break a 2nd gen link...not saying it cant happen...
Mullett757
New member
I got two shipped for $38 so im not worried about it. Plus I dont off road hard. just beach driving
saincain78
New member
Energy Suspension stuff
Did you have to buy the rubber grommets for 2nd gen end link or did you buy for 4th gen? I'm getting ready to purchase.
Did you have to buy the rubber grommets for 2nd gen end link or did you buy for 4th gen? I'm getting ready to purchase.
L8Shift
Member
No..
Grommets come with the end link.
The ProForge End Link came with 'rubber' grommets.
I can't ever leave anything alone, and got the Energy Suspension 9.8106G grommets.
