Need FSM pages for alternator replacement

R

Rushthezeppelin

New member
I'm out on the first night of a fishing trip in Wyoming and I was trying to find a campsite near Laramie and started hearing a whine while parked. Opened the hood and I'm 99% sure it's the alternator going out. Torque pro was showing voltage jumping around between 12-14v so this further solidifies it. Anyway I brought tools but did not grab my FSM. Tried to call one of my roommates and they aren't answering so I'm hoping as a backup someone on here can post the replacement pages by tomorrow morning. I think it's a simple job but don't want to screw it up. There's a reman down in Laramie at napa I can pickup tomorrow that I'm hoping will get me through my trip. I will rebuild the one on there assuming it's OEM and swap it back when I get a chance.
 
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JoeT4R said:
YouTube is your friend. Replacement is straightforward. Loosen the tensioner, remove the bolt and the electrical connection to it. Pop it out. Reinstall. Timmy the Toolman is an excellent source to use, which I'm sure you're aware of by this point. Here's a short video for reference.

How to Replace the Alternator on a 1995-2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 3.4 L Engine - YouTube
Click to expand...

Thanks for the shout-out of my and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] Timmy the Toolman YouTube channel. Happy Wrenching Joe!
 
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Lol didn't even think about Timmy last night. Anyways I went into Laramie and had a guy at an electrical auto shop look at it. It wasn't making the noise until I figured out that it was only doing it under load. Went back and guy says it's probably a diode going bad. Went back and grabbed the Napa reman. If it goes out while I'm out there I now have the info to field repair. If it doesn't go out on this trip I will probably rebuild the one in there assuming it's OEM (how long do these normally last for people, I'm at 280k) and return the reman.
 
Rushthezeppelin said:
Lol didn't even think about Timmy last night. Anyways I went into Laramie and had a guy at an electrical auto shop look at it. It wasn't making the noise until I figured out that it was only doing it under load. Went back and guy says it's probably a diode going bad. Went back and grabbed the Napa reman. If it goes out while I'm out there I now have the info to field repair. If it doesn't go out on this trip I will probably rebuild the one in there assuming it's OEM (how long do these normally last for people, I'm at 280k) and return the reman.
Click to expand...

It takes like an hour max to change in the field. It's a whole lot less fun doing it on a hot, muddy engine. Mine died after running too hard through some soupy mud and filling the entire thing with muddy water.

I did it in 20 minutes in my garage last time. Good luck out there!
 
Rushthezeppelin said:
Lol didn't even think about Timmy last night. Anyways I went into Laramie and had a guy at an electrical auto shop look at it. It wasn't making the noise until I figured out that it was only doing it under load. Went back and guy says it's probably a diode going bad. Went back and grabbed the Napa reman. If it goes out while I'm out there I now have the info to field repair. If it doesn't go out on this trip I will probably rebuild the one in there assuming it's OEM (how long do these normally last for people, I'm at 280k) and return the reman.
Click to expand...

I have had 2 alternators that each went over 240k ( different 3rd gens) by my current 3rd gen is at 240ish and it had a reman on it ( when I got it) that went bad. When the reman went bad it was a bearing.
cant remeber if this is covered in timmys video...but there is a bushing that likes to slide toward the back of the engine....pinching the alternator...can make difficult to get out...but b4 puttin gin new one, pull the bushing to the front ( i just used a c clamp and a socket) and the new alternator will just drop in with no fight. I can tell the prvious owner did not know this as the reman had hammer marks all over it.
 
3bears said:
I have had 2 alternators that each went over 240k ( different 3rd gens) by my current 3rd gen is at 240ish and it had a reman on it ( when I got it) that went bad. When the reman went bad it was a bearing.
cant remeber if this is covered in timmys video...but there is a bushing that likes to slide toward the back of the engine....pinching the alternator...can make difficult to get out...but b4 puttin gin new one, pull the bushing to the front ( i just used a c clamp and a socket) and the new alternator will just drop in with no fight. I can tell the prvious owner did not know this as the reman had hammer marks all over it.
Click to expand...


I made a tool to pull the bushing to make slipping it in easier


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm always interested in a new tool to add to my collection!

For me, I just used a deep socket to take up most of the space, and used a pry bar to push the socket.
In turn pushing the bushing creating room for the alt to slip in.

Glad your set to go OP. Terrible when your having fun, only to wrench when you didn't expect too.
 
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