need gas tank skid removal help

[kevinpt]

im looking all over the forum and can not find out how to take off the gas tank skid plate. i have the thing up on ramps but can not get to the bolt that is right above the axle. anyone have ideas on how to remove the skid. might try a jack after lunch but as of now i can not get a socket on the bolt

 

[awdjunkies]

Have you seen this thread?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/off-r...eplaced-fuel-tank-skid-plates.html#post273483 seems to be the way to get to it..

Good Luck, I'll check to see if I can find pics as well..

 

[BudBuilt]

12mm swivel socket helps or at least a swivel/u joint adapter up in there. Long extensions too maybe? You will get it. It's just tougher on your back in the driveway.

Lemme know if there is anything more specific that you are having troubles with. I might have done a few of these over the years...

Bud

 

[kevinpt]

12mm swivel socket helps or at least a swivel/u joint adapter up in there. Long extensions too maybe? You will get it. It's just tougher on your back in the driveway.

Lemme know if there is anything more specific that you are having troubles with. I might have done a few of these over the years...

Bud

Well I did not end up removing the skid. It is making contact with the gas tank but was not rubbing. I put a piece of rubber inner tube from a bike where the dent is in the skid for now and might pull it down but for now it seems safe

 

[NJshadow93]

I used a combination of long extensions and the swivel u joints. PITA and it took a half hour for the one bolt as the drive shaft really gets in the way, but it comes off eventually.

 

[kevinpt]

I used a combination of long extensions and the swivel u joints. PITA and it took a half hour for the one bolt as the drive shaft really gets in the way, but it comes off eventually.

i even tried jacking from the rear hitch and putting on stands but i didnt have room then. also didnt have the tools needed on hand and was starting to rain so its together and safe for now. still need to hit the dent out of it at some point

 

[NJshadow93]

i even tried jacking from the rear hitch and putting on stands but i didnt have room then. also didnt have the tools needed on hand and was starting to rain so its together and safe for now. still need to hit the dent out of it at some point

I forgot you weren't lifted! Yeah that would make it much harder.

 

[Jeremy556]

What made it easy for me (other than being on a 4 post lift, in a heated garage) was some spline drive socket from Lowes. Each socket has a built in U joint. I have never used them for anything else, ever, but they made removing and re-installing that bolt effortless.

 

[Benny123]

Reviving thread. Gotta say that bolt by the driveshaft up front was a beotch. I spent over an hour on it. Heavily rusted. Cant use a socket as its too close to the drive shaft. I was able to get it 3/4 of the way of with a ratcheting wrench but then it got rounded off. Finally said **** it and just dropped the skid with it on.

I was able to do the fuel tank belt with it on, but it was tight and awkward. If it ever really has to come off, its going to be a Dremel. A small worn disc will do the trick because a new one is too big. Its easy to access the back of the mount and I would drill out and put a new bolt and nut up there.

Sheesh terrible location for this bolt.

 

[L8Shift]

Reviving thread. Gotta say that bolt by the driveshaft up front was a beotch. I spent over an hour on it. Heavily rusted. Cant use a socket as its too close to the drive shaft.

When the shop dropped my tank, they didn't mention any difficulty getting to any bolts.

They had the tank dropped before I could stop by to help out.

Though maybe up on a lift with the axles fully drooped, gave them better access to that pesky bolt {just a wild guess}.

 

[Terminator03]

Reviving thread. Gotta say that bolt by the driveshaft up front was a beotch. I spent over an hour on it. Heavily rusted. Cant use a socket as its too close to the drive shaft. I was able to get it 3/4 of the way of with a ratcheting wrench but then it got rounded off. Finally said **** it and just dropped the skid with it on.

I was able to do the fuel tank belt with it on, but it was tight and awkward. If it ever really has to come off, its going to be a Dremel. A small worn disc will do the trick because a new one is too big. Its easy to access the back of the mount and I would drill out and put a new bolt and nut up there.

Sheesh terrible location for this bolt.

I actually snapped the head off that bolt a couple of weeks back when I had to replace a broken fuel tank strap. I actually broke another on the frame side as well. I had the skid sandblasted and powder coated, so it’s all ready to go back on, but now I need to remove the driveshaft to be able to drill that bolt out and retap the hole. What a crappy design! EVERY bolt was completely rusted into the frame, so I guess I’m lucky only 2 broke. I chased all the holes with a tap, and used new bolts, with anti-seize this time, so hopefully if it ever needs to come down again, it will be easier next time!

 

[Benny123]

I actually snapped the head off that bolt a couple of weeks back when I had to replace a broken fuel tank strap. I actually broke another on the frame side as well. I had the skid sandblasted and powder coated, so it’s all ready to go back on, but now I need to remove the driveshaft to be able to drill that bolt out and retap the hole. What a crappy design! EVERY bolt was completely rusted into the frame, so I guess I’m lucky only 2 broke. I chased all the holes with a tap, and used new bolts, with anti-seize this time, so hopefully if it ever needs to come down again, it will be easier next time!

My bolt was at a 45 angle and it was just terrible. Impossible to get a socket on behind the driveshaft. I honestly think that some of the 4Runners have a slightly different angle on that bolt. I ended up grinding the **** out of that thing with a Dremel. I then drilled a hole straight up and down and tapped it to 8 mm by 1.25. Easily threaded a bolt and no longer a problem to access.
I also replaced all the other rusted bolts as well, so six new bolts. It 'll be super easy to change out a fuel pump next time I need to bring it down, if needed. I also sanded the whole thing down remove rust and repainted it.

I got to use a lot of my tools though. Future readers, if you're even thinking about bringing down your fuel tank skid plate buy a Dremel, Milwaukee M12 right angle drill, and a set of left-handed drill bits. You'll need them. Drill has saved me on many occasions in tight spaces.

Oh, and f road salt.

 

[Shiftless Joe]

May have to do this in the near future, wouldn't disconnecting the driveshaft and moving it off to the side make the job much easier?

 

[Terminator03]

My bolt was at a 45 angle and it was just terrible. Impossible to get a socket on behind the driveshaft. I honestly think that some of the 4Runners have a slightly different angle on that bolt. I ended up grinding the **** out of that thing with a Dremel. I then drilled a hole straight up and down and tapped it to 8 mm by 1.25. Easily threaded a bolt and no longer a problem to access.
I also replaced all the other rusted bolts as well, so six new bolts. It 'll be super easy to change out a fuel pump next time I need to bring it down, if needed. I also sanded the whole thing down remove rust and repainted it.

I got to use a lot of my tools though. Future readers, if you're even thinking about bringing down your fuel tank skid plate buy a Dremel, Milwaukee M12 right angle drill, and a set of left-handed drill bits. You'll need them. Drill has saved me on many occasions in tight spaces.

Oh, and f road salt.

I’ll have to look at maybe redrilling in a different spot as you did, because mine was also on an angle. It’s a crappy location no matter what though.

 

[Terminator03]

May have to do this in the near future, wouldn't disconnecting the driveshaft and moving it off to the side make the job much easier?

Probably. That is/was my plan since there is no way I can get to it to redrill and tap it. I am considering doing what that other guy did though and maybe drill in a different spot since it may be easier to do that, than to try to drill out the exact center of the broken bolt.

 

[Benny123]

Yeah I probably could have disconnected the drive shaft, but I just didn't feel it was necessary. Plus you open up a whole new can of worms if one of those bolts is rusted or breaks off as well. In the end it's the principle, I already took off the skid plate and the gas tank straps. I shouldn't have to take off the drive shaft to access a single bolt.

 

[Terminator03]

Yeah I probably could have disconnected the drive shaft, but I just didn't feel it was necessary. Plus you open up a whole new can of worms if one of those bolts is rusted or breaks off as well. In the end it's the principle, I already took off the skid plate and the gas tank straps. I shouldn't have to take off the drive shaft to access a single bolt.

That’s a really good point. Literally EVERYTHING I’ve tried to take apart on this truck has been seized, or just plain sheared off when applying enough torque to get it loose. It’s very frustrating. When I did my calipers after one seized, I couldn’t even change the rubber lines because they were frozen to the hardline fittings. So now I have a brand new set of stainless lines I can’t use. I couldn’t get ANY of them loose, front, or rear without either rounding the fittings, or twisting the hard lines and breaking them. Didn’t want to open that can o’ worms either! I’m going to look at doing what you did next time I’m under there, because I’d rather not have to drop the driveshaft, even though, it shouldn’t be a big deal. From my experience EVERYTHING underneath this truck is a big deal because of rust. It’s really too bad because the rest of the truck is flawless inside and out, but the frame will be the death of it.:ybrick:

 

[CapitalCityRunner]

I actually snapped the head off that bolt a couple of weeks back when I had to replace a broken fuel tank strap. I actually broke another on the frame side as well. I had the skid sandblasted and powder coated, so it’s all ready to go back on, but now I need to remove the driveshaft to be able to drill that bolt out and retap the hole. What a crappy design! EVERY bolt was completely rusted into the frame, so I guess I’m lucky only 2 broke. I chased all the holes with a tap, and used new bolts, with anti-seize this time, so hopefully if it ever needs to come down again, it will be easier next time!

Has anyone had trouble after you get the bolt removed? It’s like my skid plate and that bracket are married together, I got the bolt out and I’ve tried prying it apart with a screwdriver but it’s not budging

 

[bigwave]

How long to remove skid plate

The skid plate in now way holds the gas tank, correct? You can run a 2005 4runner with the skid plate removed, is that correct?

 

[y=mx+b]

The skid plate in now way holds the gas tank, correct? You can run a 2005 4runner with the skid plate removed, is that correct?

Under ordinary conditions, no need for the skid to support. The tank straps hold the tank up.

If your straps are broken/rusted through, the tank will then be supported by the skid.

I've got a write-up on replacing the tank straps with a lot of pictures, that can give you some good part familiarization for the tank, straps, skid, and attachment: Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)