Need Opinions: Best Non-OE A/C Hoses

[BamaDrewski]

If anyone has rebuilt their A/C system with non-OE hoses, I am wondering who has opinions on the various brands of hoses? Specifically, the brands out there seem to be: FourSeasons and UAC. I am looking to replace (1) AC Suction Hose/Line (2) AC Discharge Hose/Line (3) AC Liquid Line/Tube. I have all new Denso parts (Compressor, Expansion Valve, Evaporator, Drier/Receiver and Condenser). I have heard that if moisture gets in an old system, it can create hydrochloric acid and eat through the hoses and tubes. So, as I am replacing all the major components, I am going to replace the hoses as well. Might be overkill but I never plan to sell or get rid of this truck. I've gotten 14 years out of the original system and plan to get another 14 out of the all new one!!!! They will have to bury me in my 4Runner. It is the best and most reliable vehicle I have ever owned!!! ALSO, if anyone wants me to post a video and/or pics on the step-by-step process, please chime in.....

 

[nissanh]

134 A is 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane (C2H2F4) so there is no way it is going to form HCl with moisture.
You should be good with your flexible and Al AC hoses/tubes. Get new O-rings and vacuum very well before adding refrigerant gas (134 a).

 

[BamaDrewski]

Thanks NissanH. I guess I am just OCD about my rig. If I could find a woman as reliable as this T4R, I would marry her! Thanks for the input. Do you know of ANY issues that might have compromised the AC hoses over 14 years of service? I just want to make sure I do this right. Took it to an "AC Specialist" and this moron quoted parts that don't exist on this truck (i.e. orifice tube) and then he said he "tested the AC amplifier" which I knew was bogus cause he never took out the glove box to get to the cooling unit box where the amplifier is mounted. After that fiasco and a $1,098 quote to fix it with aftermarket Chinese parts, I decided to educate myself on how to do it myself. My buddy has a $8K Snap-On AC machine that does everything but bake cakes and do laundry. It will do the vacuuming of the system and "meter" in the right amount of R134 which I understand is only about 1.4LBS. I figure with all new components, I have done it right. HOWEVER, if I can just take off the hoses and tubes, flush them out and re-install, I can save a couple of hundred bucks right there. Thanks again man!!!

 

[nissanh]

Yeah, just reuse the hoses. I am telling how good these toyota hoses are from my experience. My DD is a 1992 TOYOTA SPRINTER. With 22 years of continuous usage, the AC is still ice cold and no leaks what so ever.

Just get all the parts installed together with new O-rings. Do a leak test with compressed nitrogen and soapy water. If you get new o-rings installed leaks are minimal. Do not oil the O-rings.

You can monitor the gas level inside the system by looking at the glass located at the top of the filter. Add gas until you see no bubbles. Have the blower motor fan full speed and windows down while you recharge the system.

 

[TheDurk]

Yeah, just reuse the hoses. I am telling how good these toyota hoses are from my experience. My DD is a 1992 TOYOTA SPRINTER. With 22 years of continuous usage, the AC is still ice cold and no leaks what so ever.

Just get all the parts installed together with new O-rings. Do a leak test with compressed nitrogen and soapy water. If you get new o-rings installed leaks are minimal. Do not oil the O-rings.

You can monitor the gas level inside the system by looking at the glass located at the top of the filter. Add gas until you see no bubbles. Have the blower motor fan full speed and windows down while you recharge the system.

Why NOT oil the O-rings? Everywhere I have seen says to oil them with PAG oil, including the FSM (example attached.)

 

[nissanh]

The only O-ring that needs lubrication before the installation is the oil filter. This is because (of course I know that you are aware) it meets the engine block surface while turning. However, with the AC O-rings it get inserted to fill the space between the inner and outer tubes. Dry-to-dry seats better when sandwiched (head gasket). This is my personal experience. I have installed many AC systems including the compressors and I never oil the O-rings or the big O-ring like gasket between the compressor and the manifold. So far worked for me. I take extra care to make sure the O-ring won't fold/twist.

Sorry, I didn't get to see the FSM you attached.