New CSF 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner Heavy-Duty All-Aluminum Radiator

This is great news!

Better than OEM

Direct Fit

Aluminum

Reputable Company

I’m sure that my mechanic will appreciate me bringing this to him vs a Champion with all of the known installation issues and quality concerns.
 
No emotion, I sell all the brands and Im posting facts. If you want to buy a Champion Ive got no problems with that, but they are not on the same level of quality and to claim that is not helping the forum members here.

If you are considering a champion, they are equivalent to the ones sold on ebay under the brand names WK Radiator, "High Quality Radiator" and USA Radiator Factory for about $100 less. They probably work, weve installed several customer supplied units in the past, I know a few have had to be replaced in under 18 months, but we are also subject to 115deg heat here.

Let me if I can answer any other questions, we are here to help

To b clear I'm not saying anything about the quality or reputation of the company, if I had the option when I was looking for an aluminium Rad I would have gone with this route, glad to c another option. I was purely talking from a marketing stand point that most 3rd gen owners don't know who CSF r, their trying to spend the lowest amount (don't c the benefit of going this path), and to make the jump in cost there needs to b something that guides them down this path... i.e. replacement aluminum fan shroud, shroud at has electric fans
 
Google is a thing.

Battle Born Offroad - The #1 Offroad Part Supplier from Las Vegas

Address, phone number, etc. all there at the bottom.

(and now I suddenly feel like I'm shilling - no connection and have only bought one thing from them in the past)

-Charlie

I appreciate your business!

Feel free to call us anytime - 702.333.0868


If you are an agent for CSF is there a web site where I can find your "real world" contact details?

Not an agent for CSF, I run a Mishimoto in my diesel!
 
Well, I ordered it. I'll report back. There was a $49 promo running right now, which is what got me hooked lol.

I have been running a similar CSF dual row radiator in my time attack miata, here in the AZ desert, successfully for years now. I've only had to replace the radiator cap, which I suggest everyone get a spare. I'm a big fan of the CSF products, and they are known to be excellent in the racing community I engage with.

I am not an agent nor am I affiliated with CSF in any way. Just an abuser of their well made products.
 
does CSF have an option to have the inlet nozzle located on the LH side and the outlet nozzle located in the RH side? that's how it's positioned in the diesel engine. also, can the stock fan cover still be used?
 
Just wanted to report back that I received the unit and installed it. It installed without issue. I was able to easily bleed the system of air, and no leaks detected. I haven't been able to stress test it yet, but will report back if I have any issues or complaints down the road. Cheers!

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[MENTION=112755]electroCrunch[/MENTION] thanks for the update and I’m curious to see how it does in that Phoenix heat. I was considering this radiator once mine is due to be replaced, which I was planning at 250k (currently only at 205k) as I replaced it with OEM at 150k.

Things I’m curious about:
1. Does it hold more coolant and if so how much?
2. Where is it made?
3. Please tell me more about the gold air intake!

Maybe [MENTION=99912]Battle Born Offroad[/MENTION] can answer?
 
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It is thicker, 42mm on the CSF vs 22-23mm on the stock core

Has anyone with a shrockworks bumper installed one of these radiators without grinding the supports? The bumper has frame brackets which run on the inside of the framerails. The older OEM replacements fit without issue but the new 'direct fit' OEM ones won't fit out of the box due...
 
Gold reflective tape. Gold is a great heat "reflector", arguable performance increase, killer looks.

DEI make some, as do a ton of other companies.


^ This. I had some DEI reflective tape leftover from another project and figured why not. I doubt it makes a big difference if at all, but since I had it laying around it seemed like a good idea.



[MENTION=112755]electroCrunch[/MENTION] thanks for the update and I’m curious to see how it does in that Phoenix heat. I was considering this radiator once mine is due to be replaced, which I was planning at 250k (currently only at 205k) as I replaced it with OEM at 150k.

Things I’m curious about:
1. Does it hold more coolant and if so how much?
2. Where is it made?
3. Please tell me more about the gold air intake!

Maybe [MENTION=99912]Battle Born Offroad[/MENTION] can answer?

1. Not sure, I'd guess at least as much as stock. Battle Born could hopefully answer.
2. I believe I recall seeing it was made in Taiwan.
3. DEI heat reflective tape
 
Just wanted to report back that I received the unit and installed it. It installed without issue. I was able to easily bleed the system of air, and no leaks detected. I haven't been able to stress test it yet, but will report back if I have any issues or complaints down the road. Cheers!

Any updates? Considering this +a trans cooler. My OEM 230k mi rad is developing a slight leak from the lower cowel. This is looking like a great replacement. I’m in the Coachella valley, we hit 120° regularly. The extra capacity is also very enticing
 
Any updates? Considering this +a trans cooler. My OEM 230k mi rad is developing a slight leak from the lower cowel. This is looking like a great replacement. I’m in the Coachella valley, we hit 120° regularly. The extra capacity is also very enticing

Don't wait too long - all that is protecting your transmission oil from mixing with your coolant is 20+ year old plastic. Assuming you are still using the ATF cooling tank on the radiator...
 
Don't wait too long - all that is protecting your transmission oil from mixing with your coolant is 20+ year old plastic. Assuming you are still using the ATF cooling tank on the radiator...
Sort-of...

TWzGpXrh.jpg


The corrosion happens in the metal of the fitting if the coolant and trans fluid isn't maintained (or road salt gets to the exterior). That pic above was my stock rad at ~18 years and 270k miles - no corrosion visible.

-Charlie
 
Sort-of...

TWzGpXrh.jpg


The corrosion happens in the metal of the fitting if the coolant and trans fluid isn't maintained (or road salt gets to the exterior). That pic above was my stock rad at ~18 years and 270k miles - no corrosion visible.

-Charlie

Interesting - so is it like a tiny plate-style cooler in there?
 
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION], don't recall hearing what actually fails other than "the cooler".
Pic has me wondering what the culprit is, cooler aluminum corrodes through a plate?
Changed one for cracked tank didn't think to look further. Before milkshake was a thing.
 
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION], don't recall hearing what actually fails other than "the cooler".
Pic has me wondering what the culprit is, cooler aluminum corrodes through a plate?
Changed one for cracked tank didn't think to look further. Before milkshake was a thing.
My expectation is that the joint between the exterior fitting (coated steel) and the interior cooler (aluminum) corrodes and leaks. The cooler is 'bolted' in there with gaskets/o-rings by the exterior fittings. If that leaks internally, it will cause the milkshake. I suppose the cooler itself can also corrode and leak.

I think most pink milkshake radiators are just thrown away in anger - I haven't seen one torn down. (which is why I tore down my still working radiator - to see how it is built)

-Charlie
 
(coated steel) and the interior cooler (aluminum) corrodes and leaks.
The cooler is 'bolted' in there with gaskets/o-rings by the exterior fittings./QUOTE]

Sounds right, all in not a bad design. Know of other OE brands that chit the bed way sooner.
 

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