New member into/ build thread from the beginning.
- Thread starter gshadow325
- Start date
gshadow325
New member
it does take up some space, but that space was not used anyways for the last 167,000 miles or 10 years prior to me installing this air system!
LoL
gshadow325
New member
gshadow325
New member
DISCLAIMER: You mess up your car, dont blame me, its that simple. I know what i am doing, I dont know what you are doing.
So here goes. Many of you guys have or want or considered a aftermarket system that will start and protect your vehicle. There's the BUT, i dont want to loose my window feature. The place that did your system wanted to charge you a gazillion dollars to "hook up" the window feature. Well look no further and wait no more. You have the "info" to give to your favorite shop to have a system installed!!!
Recipe for window roll up and down via aftermarket system:
2 - one amp diodes
2 - relays maybe a third relay. i will tell you later why.
You can use mini relays from Directed electronics 8616, like the one pictured below.
You will need to pop out the rear window switch. take out that one bolt that holds the climate control in. the screw is hidden in the back when you open the pocket undet the climate control.
push the switch out from the back to get to the wires.
On my 2003 v8 the wires you need are
1: black/yellow control wire
2: black/blue stripe window down
3: yellow/red stripe window up
So you get the idea what the switch does. it takes the black/yellow wire and connects it to the black/blue wire and makes it go up with a momentary connection. when you take that same black/yellow wire and connect it to the yellow/red wire momentarily it will go up.
In order for your car to roll the window up or down, the car needs to see ignition wire power up (blue/yellow @ ignition switch) for a moment. this is where you might need a third relay if your installer didnt energize the second ignition line during remote start up.
Here's where you get to wire up everything.
If you are using the dei relays 8616 then use this diagram
take two relays:
(30)both yellows from relay to black/yellow on the switch
(87a)orange from relay no connection
(86)both red from relays to 12v constant source
(87)brown #1 from relay to black/blue on switch for window down
(87)brown #2 from relay to yellow/red for window up
(85)black #1 from relay to your aftermarket system's trunk pop negative output
(85)black #2 from relay to your aftermarket systems aux 1 negative out put
fyi: numbers in (xx) correspond to a regular full size relay
wires need to be soldered like this
with your trunk pop negative wire you need to also have that same wire energize the ignition relay to power up blue/yellow for a split second.
this is where you need the two 1 amp diodes:
you will have two wires triggering the ignition relay. the diodes will prevent the switch from getting both a up and down signal at the same time.
when you do a trunk pop, that sends a negative signal to the switch and at the same time energizes the ignition wire thus turning on the retained accessory power on the truck.
So now i have my drone mobile set up to do the following
lock = arm/lock
unlock = disarm/unlock
trunk pop = window roll down
aux 1 or #1 on the drone app = window roll up
aux 2 or #2 on the drone app = train horn
siren = horn honk/train horns
engine start/stop = remote starter
i hope this clarifies what needs to be done. i saw someone write up to go all the way into the tailgate and do a bunch of stuff. i reverse engineered what the switch does. this way for me is much simpler. if your favorite installer/installation facility downt know what i am showing to do. then they should not be touching your truck. If you know what the hell i am doing, kuddos to you and betcha didnt think of this.
it sounds like a complicated mod but if you follow my directions and apply it to your application. its easy. just ask the question, i probably can help you get it done!
Enjoy! now to add this to my build thread! repost LoL
So here goes. Many of you guys have or want or considered a aftermarket system that will start and protect your vehicle. There's the BUT, i dont want to loose my window feature. The place that did your system wanted to charge you a gazillion dollars to "hook up" the window feature. Well look no further and wait no more. You have the "info" to give to your favorite shop to have a system installed!!!
Recipe for window roll up and down via aftermarket system:
2 - one amp diodes
2 - relays maybe a third relay. i will tell you later why.
You can use mini relays from Directed electronics 8616, like the one pictured below.
You will need to pop out the rear window switch. take out that one bolt that holds the climate control in. the screw is hidden in the back when you open the pocket undet the climate control.
push the switch out from the back to get to the wires.
On my 2003 v8 the wires you need are
1: black/yellow control wire
2: black/blue stripe window down
3: yellow/red stripe window up
So you get the idea what the switch does. it takes the black/yellow wire and connects it to the black/blue wire and makes it go up with a momentary connection. when you take that same black/yellow wire and connect it to the yellow/red wire momentarily it will go up.
In order for your car to roll the window up or down, the car needs to see ignition wire power up (blue/yellow @ ignition switch) for a moment. this is where you might need a third relay if your installer didnt energize the second ignition line during remote start up.
Here's where you get to wire up everything.
If you are using the dei relays 8616 then use this diagram
take two relays:
(30)both yellows from relay to black/yellow on the switch
(87a)orange from relay no connection
(86)both red from relays to 12v constant source
(87)brown #1 from relay to black/blue on switch for window down
(87)brown #2 from relay to yellow/red for window up
(85)black #1 from relay to your aftermarket system's trunk pop negative output
(85)black #2 from relay to your aftermarket systems aux 1 negative out put
fyi: numbers in (xx) correspond to a regular full size relay
wires need to be soldered like this
with your trunk pop negative wire you need to also have that same wire energize the ignition relay to power up blue/yellow for a split second.
this is where you need the two 1 amp diodes:
you will have two wires triggering the ignition relay. the diodes will prevent the switch from getting both a up and down signal at the same time.
when you do a trunk pop, that sends a negative signal to the switch and at the same time energizes the ignition wire thus turning on the retained accessory power on the truck.
So now i have my drone mobile set up to do the following
lock = arm/lock
unlock = disarm/unlock
trunk pop = window roll down
aux 1 or #1 on the drone app = window roll up
aux 2 or #2 on the drone app = train horn
siren = horn honk/train horns
engine start/stop = remote starter
i hope this clarifies what needs to be done. i saw someone write up to go all the way into the tailgate and do a bunch of stuff. i reverse engineered what the switch does. this way for me is much simpler. if your favorite installer/installation facility downt know what i am showing to do. then they should not be touching your truck. If you know what the hell i am doing, kuddos to you and betcha didnt think of this.
it sounds like a complicated mod but if you follow my directions and apply it to your application. its easy. just ask the question, i probably can help you get it done!
Enjoy! now to add this to my build thread! repost LoL
gshadow325
New member
little bit of pictures from tonight
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
I'm digging the LED bar on the rear hatch, I did that on my acura, but never thought to do it on my 4Runner, thanks for the idea :spy:
gshadow325
New member
Today.....i got this and that in...
Driver side pacesetter cat and daystar lift level
FYI: i read somewhere that exhaust manifold came with the pacesetter...well it does NOT.
Driver side pacesetter cat and daystar lift level
FYI: i read somewhere that exhaust manifold came with the pacesetter...well it does NOT.
Last edited:
sluggercz
New member
FYI: i read somewhere that exhaust manifold came with the pacesetter...well it does NOT.
Are you sure you're not getting exhaust manifolds confused with exhaust headers?
Part#750051(L) and $750050(R) have exhaust manifolds with the Cats welded on.
See this thread.
BTW nice runner, how are you liking those Rigid Dually's? I've been contemplating getting a pair for my bumper.
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gshadow325
New member
rigids are my daily drivers...lol, daily as in on all the time as DRL's.
Love them, balls to the wall lighting with NO excuses! Just do them, no regrets!
what i meant to say was, they dont come with exhaust manifold gaskets.
are exhaust manifold and exhaust headers one and the same?
i read his thread and he is still chasing o2 codes but he never changed out any sensors. then there is wxman who had the pacesetters for a while and no issues. we will see
sluggercz
New member
rigids are my daily drivers...lol, daily as in on all the time as DRL's.
Love them, balls to the wall lighting with NO excuses! Just do them, no regrets!
what i meant to say was, they dont come with exhaust manifold gaskets.
are exhaust manifold and exhaust headers one and the same?
i read his thread and he is still chasing o2 codes but he never changed out any sensors. then there is wxman who had the pacesetters for a while and no issues. we will see
Exhaust manifold:
vs.
Exhaust headers:
And that's good to hear about the Rigids. Do you have the Duallys or D2s?
gshadow325
New member
D2 of course. dually are just teasers.
sluggercz
New member
Haha, well it looks like I'll be going with D2's then. I'm assuming yours are the Driving Light pattern and not the wide beam?
Found some good comparison pictures too:
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gshadow325
New member
Collecting parts for a big maintenance/mod/upgrade install:
-Pacesetter driver side cat/manifold part # 750051
-8 OEM exhaust manifold studs
-8 OEM exhaust manifold nuts
-Felpro Exhaust manifold gasket (set for both sides)
-Daystar 2.5/1.5 lift level kit
-Driver side sway bar end link
-OEM Bilstein Shocks/struts 20miles
-2013 FJ Cruiser Coils 5,000 miles
Hopefully these parts will
A: fix my P0420 Problem, i changed both sensors, plugs and one injector. trying to fix it so far
B: Level out and drive better since my truck just hit 170,000. Truck should drive like new
Next up after this, maybe some 17" FJ Rims or 06 limited 18's
-Pacesetter driver side cat/manifold part # 750051
-8 OEM exhaust manifold studs
-8 OEM exhaust manifold nuts
-Felpro Exhaust manifold gasket (set for both sides)
-Daystar 2.5/1.5 lift level kit
-Driver side sway bar end link
-OEM Bilstein Shocks/struts 20miles
-2013 FJ Cruiser Coils 5,000 miles
Hopefully these parts will
A: fix my P0420 Problem, i changed both sensors, plugs and one injector. trying to fix it so far
B: Level out and drive better since my truck just hit 170,000. Truck should drive like new
Next up after this, maybe some 17" FJ Rims or 06 limited 18's
gshadow325
New member
Progress
Today @ 170255miles
-Daystar 2.5/1.5 lift level
-FJ Cruiser Front and rear Coils 5,000 miles
-Tacoma TRD Front SHocks 20 miles new take offs (bought a complete front and rear set only yo find out rears will not work)
-New Rear Bilstein Shocks (looked up application for 08 FJ cruiser)
-New American Racing AR901 in black 18x9 with a 0mm offset
-Used BFGoodRich Rugged Terrain TA in 275/70/18 flavor 33.5" tall tire 60% tread craigslist find, all four tires for $80.one tire had a nail in it
Basically refresh on the oem suspension.
Verdict if you wanted to do FJ Coils and daystar lift level.... You can do it, no UCA or LCA problems.
Height stock @ 170k front 31" to bottom of the front fender
Height stock @ 170k rear 32.5"
Height with Fj coils and daystar, stock tires front 35.5"
Height with Fj coils and daystar, stock tires rear 37"
Height with Fj coils and daystar and 275/70/18 front 38"
Height with Fj coils and daystar and 275/70/18 rear 39"
Does it rub? YES.
Where does it rub? Fronts only. Mudflaps removed. trimmed the fender flare a little bit. see pictures. moved fender liner up some more so it doesnt rub. About 20 minutes of tweaking the lower front part of the fender flare and fender liner.
Pictures...
Today @ 170255miles
-Daystar 2.5/1.5 lift level
-FJ Cruiser Front and rear Coils 5,000 miles
-Tacoma TRD Front SHocks 20 miles new take offs (bought a complete front and rear set only yo find out rears will not work)
-New Rear Bilstein Shocks (looked up application for 08 FJ cruiser)
-New American Racing AR901 in black 18x9 with a 0mm offset
-Used BFGoodRich Rugged Terrain TA in 275/70/18 flavor 33.5" tall tire 60% tread craigslist find, all four tires for $80.one tire had a nail in it
Basically refresh on the oem suspension.
Verdict if you wanted to do FJ Coils and daystar lift level.... You can do it, no UCA or LCA problems.
Height stock @ 170k front 31" to bottom of the front fender
Height stock @ 170k rear 32.5"
Height with Fj coils and daystar, stock tires front 35.5"
Height with Fj coils and daystar, stock tires rear 37"
Height with Fj coils and daystar and 275/70/18 front 38"
Height with Fj coils and daystar and 275/70/18 rear 39"
Does it rub? YES.
Where does it rub? Fronts only. Mudflaps removed. trimmed the fender flare a little bit. see pictures. moved fender liner up some more so it doesnt rub. About 20 minutes of tweaking the lower front part of the fender flare and fender liner.
Pictures...
gshadow325
New member
Finally figured what to do with the empty toyota ovals front and rear. I hate logos. I like to be anonymous
FYI: Oem logos just pop off
Popped them off, Popped off V8 badge too of front grill.
Had some 1/8" abs plastic sheet lying around. used the two emblems as a template and cut out these ovals. one for front and one for rear
threw some 1" strips of 3m double stick tape
then stuck it over the oem logo
Add some heat to promote adhesion
Then go to you vinyl sticker machine and load in some white reflective advery vinyl. click on the decepticon clip are you have..few minutes later you have this..
flash on to show off the reflectiveness (is there even such a word?)
[URL=http://s216.photobucket.com/user/gshadow325/media/Toyota%204Runner%202003/20130828_172024_zpse3b7b2e5.jpg.html]
[/URL]
FYI: Oem logos just pop off
Popped them off, Popped off V8 badge too of front grill.
Had some 1/8" abs plastic sheet lying around. used the two emblems as a template and cut out these ovals. one for front and one for rear
threw some 1" strips of 3m double stick tape
then stuck it over the oem logo
Add some heat to promote adhesion
Then go to you vinyl sticker machine and load in some white reflective advery vinyl. click on the decepticon clip are you have..few minutes later you have this..
flash on to show off the reflectiveness (is there even such a word?)
[URL=http://s216.photobucket.com/user/gshadow325/media/Toyota%204Runner%202003/20130828_172024_zpse3b7b2e5.jpg.html]
gshadow325
New member
Here she was at work yesterday.
Took a half day and went over to my trusty muffler shop to get my pacesetter cat installed.
Manage to only break two studs, ordered 8 studs and 8 bolts just in case. installed new felpro exhaust manifold gasket too
Since i was there i might as well get the muffler and tip installed.
Both are magnaflow. did this muffler
Took this big ole turd out
Here is pictures of the new one
New muffler tip from the side. i dont like it off to the side behind the rear wheel.
Took a half day and went over to my trusty muffler shop to get my pacesetter cat installed.
Manage to only break two studs, ordered 8 studs and 8 bolts just in case. installed new felpro exhaust manifold gasket too
Since i was there i might as well get the muffler and tip installed.
Both are magnaflow. did this muffler
Took this big ole turd out
Here is pictures of the new one
New muffler tip from the side. i dont like it off to the side behind the rear wheel.
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gshadow325
New member
Took off the 275/70/18 BFG Rugger Trail TA's
Replaced them with 285/65/18 BGF All Terrain TA KO's
white letters out!
picture of before and afters.
Replaced them with 285/65/18 BGF All Terrain TA KO's
white letters out!
picture of before and afters.
