New member - need help!!!! - p304 misfire

[thewizard]

I too just got done with the headgasket swap. This write up is pretty spot on. I am adding some more pics...
One thing to pay attention is to not mix the head parts up. Make sure you label/number all the parts like the lash caps as you do not want these mixed as the wear characteristics will cause damage to either the caps or cams. You wanna keep them in the same order they come out. Good practice would be to label them as; I1-I2-I3 (I for Intake)etc and E1-E2-E3... (E for Exhaust)

Radiator/fan shroud off



Intake manifold off


P/S pump, Water pump, oil filter housing, tensioner cover, valve covers off, Motor at TDC


A/C compressor & bracket, front timing cover off, engine at TDC (all timing marks aligned)


Heads off




Heads back from machine shop


Ready for reassembly


Heads back on and bolted down!

 

[nossliw]

I too just got done with the headgasket swap. This write up is pretty spot on. I am adding some more pics...
One thing to pay attention is to not mix the head parts up. Make sure you label/number all the parts like the lash caps as you do not want these mixed as the wear characteristics will cause damage to either the caps or cams. You wanna keep them in the same order they come out. Good practice would be to label them as; I1-I2-I3 (I for Intake)etc and E1-E2-E3... (E for Exhaust)

Radiator/fan shroud off



Intake manifold off


P/S pump, Water pump, oil filter housing, tensioner cover, valve covers off, Motor at TDC


A/C compressor & bracket, front timing cover off, engine at TDC (all timing marks aligned)


Heads off




Heads back from machine shop


Ready for reassembly


Heads back on and bolted down!

Great pics! I will get to the caps and cups further in. Thank you for adding!

Just curious as to why your internals appear to be so dry, and/or reddish, was that how much coolant your were bypassing out of the water jacket?? Run a silkolene oil? Snapping a chain is no bueno!

 

[thewizard]

Great pics! I will get to the caps and cups further in. Thank you for adding!

Just curious as to why your internals appear to be so dry, and/or reddish, was that how much coolant your were bypassing out of the water jacket?? Run a silkolene oil? Snapping a chain is no bueno!

Hope the pics help some people! Feel free to use them.
I really wasn't bypassing that much coolant nor did i run a silkolene oil. Most of it appeared to be dried up oil residue. My wife was driving short distances to drop kids off and to work so I am assuming its the oil not getting up to
temp and not fully breaking down. I was able to clean most of it with brake cleaner and purple power. Also ran some marvel mystery oil and will run some ATF prior to next oil change (Probably this weekend!)

For those that don't know ATF has more detergents as does the Marvel Oil than conventional motor oil so will be used for cleaning purposes. Just not a good idea to run it for long as it does not handle heat very well!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Sorry it took so long to geet back, I have been caught up at work and kept forgetting to post a reply.

In regards to the VVT Phaser needing to be "timed" I was thinking of the newer 1GR-FE (the Dual VVTi ones), in our dual VVTi motors Toyota installed a locking pin that prevents the VVT phaser from rattling on start-up until oil fills the cavities and unlocks the phaser. If the phaser is not locked when installed, you can incorrectly time the motor and cause issues.

This doesn't seem to be a necessary step in our single VVTi units.

 

[Wishbone]

Thanks for the detailed write up, likely going to be undertaking this myself soon once I am 100% positive it is the HG (even though I know it is in the back of my head), 04 V6 170K. Trying to get a complete parts list together, I see you listed the gasket set, bi-hex, pump, and the ARP studs (are they really needed, OEM OK?), anything else?

edit - best prices I could find:

Gasket Kit #04112-31720 - $180 - http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/0411231720

SnapOn 10 mm Bi-Hex tool - $30 - http://store.snapon.com/Double-Hex-...etric-Lexus-Toyota-10-Double-Hex-P646038.aspx

Water Pump #16100-09471- $87 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Wate...Parts_Accessories&hash=item33954c7805&vxp=mtr

Held off on the ARPs for now.

ARP Studs - $299 Pro Head Stud Set - 1GR(4.0L V6)

 

[Cornelius]

Thank you for taking the time to make an outstanding writeup. I'm in the same boat as you were -- '04 V6, 140k miles, dealer receipts and records from prior owner... A few months later and a long story short: head gasket failure.

I've been debating doing it myself to save a bunch of cash, but was hesitant due to the lack of threads detailing the subject. Your writeup just gave me a little hope in being able to accomplish this myself. It doesn't look too much worse than anything I've done before...

And it's funny that BlackWorks mentioned the dual-VVTi. My mechanic had dissuaded me from doing the job myself solely because of the fact that the engine's VVTi system is very complicated and hard to reinstall correctly. I wonder if he was thinking I had the newer setup. Sounds like you didn't have much of a problem at all with the older 4.0L.

 

[Wishbone]

Good luck! I have been talking with a Toyota tech, and he indicated that the head bolts are not needed to be replaced, cutting a nice chunk out of the cost.

Thank you for taking the time to make an outstanding writeup. I'm in the same boat as you were -- '04 V6, 140k miles, dealer receipts and records from prior owner... A few months later and a long story short: head gasket failure.

I've been debating doing it myself to save a bunch of cash, but was hesitant due to the lack of threads detailing the subject. Your writeup just gave me a little hope in being able to accomplish this myself. It doesn't look too much worse than anything I've done before...

And it's funny that BlackWorks mentioned the dual-VVTi. My mechanic had dissuaded me from doing the job myself solely because of the fact that the engine's VVTi system is very complicated and hard to reinstall correctly. I wonder if he was thinking I had the newer setup. Sounds like you didn't have much of a problem at all with the older 4.0L.

 

[nossliw]

Thanks for the detailed write up, likely going to be undertaking this myself soon once I am 100% positive it is the HG (even though I know it is in the back of my head), 04 V6 170K. Trying to get a complete parts list together, I see you listed the gasket set, bi-hex, pump, and the ARP studs (are they really needed, OEM OK?), anything else?

edit - best prices I could find:

Gasket Kit #04112-31720 - $180 - Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Set | Genuine Toyota | 04112-31720

SnapOn 10 mm Bi-Hex tool - $30 - Socket Driver, Metric, Lexus/Toyota, #10 Double Hex

Water Pump #16100-09471- $87 - Engine Water Pump Aisin WPT 802 Fits 05 12 Toyota Tacoma 4 0L V6 | eBay

Held off on the ARPs for now.

ARP Studs - $299 Pro Head Stud Set - 1GR(4.0L V6)

I see you are in CO... where abouts?

That is the list of parts you need... I will say since I am an OEM guy, that it may be worthwhile replacing with an OEM pump... some of the aftermarket ones may last 4, 40, or 140k, but I seem to see a lot of vehicles brought in with box store parts failing after a couple of oil changes...just a thought...

I agree ARP are pointless on a stock motor unless you don't want to use the bihex head bolts.Need the tool for removal anyways, and the engineers were fine with the stockers, and so am I, I was just pissed about the speacialty tool is all I would at least replace the head bolts though. I think they ran around $9.60 a piece from toyota. Half the cost of the ARPs. If they spec out there is no need, but I have never reused studs or bolts on any motor I have built, but that is me and just a rule I follow for big HP/TQ diesel motors.

Thank you for taking the time to make an outstanding writeup. I'm in the same boat as you were -- '04 V6, 140k miles, dealer receipts and records from prior owner... A few months later and a long story short: head gasket failure.

I've been debating doing it myself to save a bunch of cash, but was hesitant due to the lack of threads detailing the subject. Your writeup just gave me a little hope in being able to accomplish this myself. It doesn't look too much worse than anything I've done before...

And it's funny that BlackWorks mentioned the dual-VVTi. My mechanic had dissuaded me from doing the job myself solely because of the fact that the engine's VVTi system is very complicated and hard to reinstall correctly. I wonder if he was thinking I had the newer setup. Sounds like you didn't have much of a problem at all with the older 4.0L.

Do it yourself. It is very easy and may be a bit overwhelming at first, but the service manuals outlines the procedure extensively and if you pay attention and think through it without rushing it really is not all that complicated. When I first read through the manual, I was a bit worried with possibility of cracking a head due to improper disassembly or assembly. It really is a fairly easy job once you dive into it. Do it once, you could likely do it in half the time next go around.

I'm used to motors with only one cam in them, unless its a bike motor...

Good luck! I have been talking with a Toyota tech, and he indicated that the head bolts are not needed to be replaced, cutting a nice chunk out of the cost.

You are correct if they measure within spec. Head bolts and studs will stretch when torquing, this motor did not require drastic torque specs as the manual indicated, If i remember my final torque was right around 120 ft lbs, even though the process is to torque to the book spec and then go an additional 180 degrees, and at that +180 degrees I think I was around 120 on the digital torque wrench. I could be loosing my memory though.

The point I'm getting at is head bolts may stretch very little at 120 ft lbs, I'm used to 250-300 ft lbs of torque on head studs, and at that point you really should not be reusing them, 10% can cause a cracked block or a blown head gasket right off the bat.

I only do it for peace of mind, it sure would suck to have to do the project a second time because of stretched bolts, or worse, have to buy a shortblock for a blown head gasket project

 

[nossliw]

I have added the last of my write up. Not sure if there is much else I can attribute that you won’t already know upon reassembly. If there is I can definitely add it in, but I think it’s the best advice I can give.

 

[Wishbone]

I see you are in CO... where abouts?

That is the list of parts you need... I will say since I am an OEM guy, that it may be worthwhile replacing with an OEM pump... some of the aftermarket ones may last 4, 40, or 140k, but I seem to see a lot of vehicles brought in with box store parts failing after a couple of oil changes...just a thought...

I agree ARP are pointless on a stock motor unless you don't want to use the bihex head bolts.Need the tool for removal anyways, and the engineers were fine with the stockers, and so am I, I was just pissed about the speacialty tool is all I would at least replace the head bolts though. I think they ran around $9.60 a piece from toyota. Half the cost of the ARPs. If they spec out there is no need, but I have never reused studs or bolts on any motor I have built, but that is me and just a rule I follow for big HP/TQ diesel motors.

You are correct if they measure within spec. Head bolts and studs will stretch when torquing, this motor did not require drastic torque specs as the manual indicated, If i remember my final torque was right around 120 ft lbs, even though the process is to torque to the book spec and then go an additional 180 degrees, and at that +180 degrees I think I was around 120 on the digital torque wrench. I could be loosing my memory though.

The point I'm getting at is head bolts may stretch very little at 120 ft lbs, I'm used to 250-300 ft lbs of torque on head studs, and at that point you really should not be reusing them, 10% can cause a cracked block or a blown head gasket right off the bat.

I only do it for peace of mind, it sure would suck to have to do the project a second time because of stretched bolts, or worse, have to buy a shortblock for a blown head gasket project

Thanks for the reply, I am in Arvada.

The Aisin pump is the OEM part used, so it is in fact an OEM part, just much cheaper than from the dealer!

I also did decide to go with the OEM bolts, for ~$120 totally worth it for piece of mind.

#90910-02162

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-9...22bbdb&vxp=mtr

I have added the last of my write up. Not sure if there is much else I can attribute that you won’t already know upon reassembly. If there is I can definitely add it in, but I think it’s the best advice I can give.

Thanks again, I was on the fence, but your post helped me decide to take this on myself.

 

[nossliw]

Thanks for the reply, I am in Arvada.

The Aisin pump is the OEM part used, so it is in fact an OEM part, just much cheaper than from the dealer!

I also did decide to go with the OEM bolts, for ~$60 totally worth it for piece of mind.

#90910-02162

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-9...22bbdb&vxp=mtr



Thanks again, I was on the fence, but your post helped me decide to take this on myself.

Nice work, wish I would have been as thrifty as yourself on finding better prices on the parts! I'm just east of Parker, so a bit away from you.

I need to go through and clean it up a bit, riddled with grammar errors and repetition of reference the manual. Hard to see it all on a little phone screen, but I looked at it for the first time on the computer and it sure needs clean up.

 

[Wishbone]

A few notes as I am going through this, will clean/edit them up once complete.

- remove the hood and bumper for better access
- disconnect the Y on the exhaust for better movement to get the header off
- AC bottom rear bolt was a PITA to get to
- OPs order for removal is spot on: do the front accessories, coolant bypasses, headers, and every bolt and nut removed before the valve covers. I ended up in/on the motor more than once getting everything else off.
- Purchase a 23 mm crescent for the cam hex, see post #35
- Remove rear coolant bypass after fuel rail and valve covers are moved/removed, makes access much easier. Install before these items as well.

And the most important thing I learned to day was . . . get the the fu@king crank bolt loose before you do anything! This would be the first thing I did as soon as I could get access to it, if you cannot get it loose you cannot get the front cover off. The OP made it sound easy with an impact, which I did not have, so I tried everything under the sun, I spent probably 5 hours trying all sorts of things; running to the auto store, Ace, scouring the internet and fabricating a cool looking, but worthless device, to hold the god damn pulley still while trying to break the bolt loose. Eventually, what tuned out to be the absolute easiest and least complicated method worked awesome.

I threaded two bolts through the pulley's threaded holes, and bottomed them out into to the engine cover (probably not the recommended procedure, but by god it worked) and then 4 feet of cheater bar and she popped right off.

 

[nossliw]

A few notes as I am going through this, will clean/edit them up once complete.

- remove the hood and bumper for better access
- disconnect the Y on the exhaust for better movement to get the header off
- AC bottom rear bolt was a PITA to get to
- OPs order for removal is spot on: do the front accessories, coolant bypasses, headers, and every bolt and nut removed before the valve covers. I ended up in/on the motor more than once getting everything else off.

And the most important thing I learned to day was . . . get the the fu@king crank bolt loose before you do anything! This would be the first thing I did as soon as I could get access to it, if you cannot get it loose you cannot get the front cover off. The OP made it sound easy with an impact, which I did not have, so I tried everything under the sun, I spent probably 5 hours trying all sorts of things; running to the auto store, Ace, scouring the internet and fabricating a cool looking, but worthless device, to hold the god damn pulley still while trying to break the bolt loose. Eventually, what tuned out to be the absolute easiest and least complicated method worked awesome.

I threaded two bolts through the pulley's threaded holes, and bottomed them out into to the engine cover (probably not the recommended procedure, but by god it worked) and then 4 feet of cheater bar and she popped right off.

More to come, have the front accessories off and ready yo pull the valve covers and heads today.

Glad to hear its going well! Good point, if you don't have an impact, just break it loose while the belt is on there. If you forget, I have used belt/chain wrenches to hold pulleys fixed while cracking a bolt loose. I do forget not all have impacts, however I'd never do a job without them... makes it too easy.

I did access quite a few bolts through the fender well on the drivers side with a long extension during disassembly. I may have not mentioned it but, I put the front on stands and pulled both front wheels for easier access.

 

[Wishbone]

Glad to hear its going well! Good point, if you don't have an impact, just break it loose while the belt is on there. If you forget, I have used belt/chain wrenches to hold pulleys fixed while cracking a bolt loose. I do forget not all have impacts, however I'd never do a job without them... makes it too easy.

I did access quite a few bolts through the fender well on the drivers side with a long extension during disassembly. I may have not mentioned it but, I put the front on stands and pulled both front wheels for easier access.

Haha, now you tell me!

I tried EVERYTHING prior to the bolts through the pullry, I was just pulling arms out of their sockets with everything else I tried.

I did see you mention pulling the wheels, but I need them on to roll it in/out of the garage for enough room to work on it.

My newest hang up is the exhaust cam timing sprocket bolt, that mofo is on there TIGHT! I got the intake ones on both sides loose pretty easy, but both exhausts bolts are crazy tight. I currently only have an adjustable wrench that fits the cam shaft and it is slipping when I am cranking on it, going to the store to pickup some larger crescents, I think it is a 22 mm, and my set only goes to 19 mm.

edit - I see you had the same issue, any pics of your "modified" wrench? Was it a crescent or an adjustable?

So close, I can see the gasket!

 

[Wishbone]

So, I actually got it off pretty easily. I took a trip to the hardware store and picked up a 22, 23 and 24 mm crescent wrenches, as I wasn't sure exactly what size I would need. The 22 was too small, 24 was probably the correct size, but there was still too much play for my liking, I felt that I would rish rounding it out if I went with the 24. The 23 did not slide on easily, but I decided it was going to be my best bet, so I used a piece of 2x4 and gently tapped the 23 over the hex portion of the cam. Then, a 3' section of pipe on the crescent and 4' of bar on the bolt, and BAM! I definitely thought I had broke something as well, I feared the bolt had snapped in the shaft, but all was well and both came out in one piece. I suspect that the bolt was bottomed out on the mating end and is why it is so damn tight, but IDK.

Today the heads will come off!!

 

[Wishbone]

Wrapped this up last night, fired right up! Lots of smoke from the engine bay, but other than that everything seems to be OK, took it out for a lap around the block as well. I have some drips this morning hoping that they are just residuals from the overhaul, going to clean them up this afternoon and keep an eye on them. Also will make some additional notes for the process in the previous post as well as some pics.

Here is the final parts list and prices:

- Gasket Kit #04112-31720 - $180 - http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/0411231720

- SnapOn 10 mm Bi-Hex tool - $30 - http://store.snapon.com/Double-Hex-...etric-Lexus-Toyota-10-Double-Hex-P646038.aspx

- 23mm Open Ended Box Wrench - $18

- Water Pump #16100-09471- $87 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Wate...Parts_Accessories&hash=item33954c7805&vxp=mtr

- Head Bolts #90910-02162 (x16) - $110 - http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/9091002162?search_str=90910-02162

- Mobil 1 Syn Oil 5 Qts (x3) - $75 - Wally World

- Toyota OEM Filters (x2) - $13

- Toyota Super Long Life Coolnt (x3) - $66

- Toyota OEM Spark Plugs (x6) - $24

- Toyota FPIG (RTV) #00295-00103 - $18

- Machine heads and install valve seals - $180

Total: $801

 

[nossliw]

Haha, now you tell me!

I tried EVERYTHING prior to the bolts through the pullry, I was just pulling arms out of their sockets with everything else I tried.

I did see you mention pulling the wheels, but I need them on to roll it in/out of the garage for enough room to work on it.

My newest hang up is the exhaust cam timing sprocket bolt, that mofo is on there TIGHT! I got the intake ones on both sides loose pretty easy, but both exhausts bolts are crazy tight. I currently only have an adjustable wrench that fits the cam shaft and it is slipping when I am cranking on it, going to the store to pickup some larger crescents, I think it is a 22 mm, and my set only goes to 19 mm.

edit - I see you had the same issue, any pics of your "modified" wrench? Was it a crescent or an adjustable?

So close, I can see the gasket!

Yeah I was pretty blown away how tight it was... I have busted loose Detroit Diesel headstuds with much less effort. My modified wrench was just a standard wrench that I shaved to fit snugly by tapping on. I snapped mine breaking the passenger side loose, I was happy it snapped before it broke,.

So, I actually got it off pretty easily. I took a trip to the hardware store and picked up a 22, 23 and 24 mm crescent wrenches, as I wasn't sure exactly what size I would need. The 22 was too small, 24 was probably the correct size, but there was still too much play for my liking, I felt that I would rish rounding it out if I went with the 24. The 23 did not slide on easily, but I decided it was going to be my best bet, so I used a piece of 2x4 and gently tapped the 23 over the hex portion of the cam. Then, a 3' section of pipe on the crescent and 4' of bar on the bolt, and BAM! I definitely thought I had broke something as well, I feared the bolt had snapped in the shaft, but all was well and both came out in one piece. I suspect that the bolt was bottomed out on the mating end and is why it is so damn tight, but IDK.

Today the heads will come off!!

Yup. Thought the same when it cracked loose. I was worried about shearing the cam to be honest. Stress cracking...

Wrapped this up last night, fired right up! Lots of smoke from the engine bay, but other than that everything seems to be OK, took it out for a lap around the block as well. I have some drips this morning hoping that they are just residuals from the overhaul, going to clean them up this afternoon and keep an eye on them. Also will make some additional notes for the process in the previous post as well as some pics.

Here is the final parts list and prices:

- Gasket Kit #04112-31720 - $180 - VALVE GRIND GASKET KIT | Genuine Toyota | 04112-31720

- SnapOn 10 mm Bi-Hex tool - $30 - http://store.snapon.com/Double-Hex-...etric-Lexus-Toyota-10-Double-Hex-P646038.aspx

- 23mm Open Ended Box Wrench - $18

- Water Pump #16100-09471- $87 - Engine Water Pump Aisin WPT 802 Fits 05 12 Toyota Tacoma 4 0L V6 | eBay

- Head Bolts #90910-02162 (x16) - $110 - BOLT | Genuine Toyota | 90910-02162

- Mobil 1 Syn Oil 5 Qts (x3) - $75 - Wally World

- Toyota OEM Filters (x2) - $13

- Toyota Super Long Life Coolnt (x3) - $66

- Toyota OEM Spark Plugs (x6) - $24

- Toyota FPIG (RTV) #00295-00103 - $18

- Machine heads and install valve seals - $180

Total: $801

Glad it worked out for you. I hope it runs a long time without issue. Maybe in anothe 160k

 

[nossliw]

I do want to add a bit of comedy to this thread. I forgot to mention that after this work was complete, she took it back into the dealership for a free inspection since she was headed to the insane state of California for an internship with apple. Low and behold those fuks came up with a laundry list of stuff that "needed" to be done to the car before she left. Totalling over 2 grand. The was a long list of chi,t with the reasoning of "based upon mileage" you need to do this.

Well one of them was a coolant flush
another was a new water pump
and the power steering system to be flushed

Power steering was flushed less than 2k, same with the coolant, and same with the water pump. All done with the HGs. They didn't remember her for some reason, until I called... reminded them it was the car that needed a new engine, and all of this had just been done.

The rest was flush the diffs/tranny/and typical preventative maintenance. I guess I get pissed considering they are to effing lazy to even look at the fluid anymore, let alone if the service is even needed. I did most of this 2 weeks prior to her leaving, and before she took it to them.

I have a sickening despise for all dealerships, I'm not saying Toyota is any worse than the rest of them.

Heck at least they got smart and started designing cars that require you to bring it to the dealership because the advance in technology is surpassing the knowledge base of the repair industry.... Kudos to the engineers on that one!

 

[Coltrane]

Hey nossliw, thanks for your detailed write up it gave me the confidence to tackle my head gasket on my 04 4Runner with 172k miles on it. I'm also in Colorado Springs and I was wondering where you took your heads to get machined?

 

[Kmvreter]

Yeah I was pretty blown away how tight it was... I have busted loose Detroit Diesel headstuds with much less effort. My modified wrech was just a stand wrench that I shaved to fit snugly by tapping on, crecent wouldn't cut it. I snapped mine breaking the passenger side loose.
...


Yup. Thought the same when it cracked loose. I was worried about shearing the cam to be honest.
...

Possibly a stupid question but I'll ask it:
Since the cam sprockets are torqued so tight and hard to break loose, is it really necessary to remove them from the cams? Why not just remove the main chain, unbolt the cam bearings and lift the cams (with sprockets attached) up and out?
Just curious, what am I missing?