New PIAA H4 L.E.D headlights bulbs....

[WPYota]

For those that have installed these LED's - were you able to re-secure the factory rubber boot over the rear of the bulb? As with any bulb, it would seem these would need to be protected against any water or moisture and the rear of the bulb looks significantly bigger than the factory H-4's.

Also - would covering those cooling fins with the factory boot cause any cooling problems...?

 

[THatfield]

For those that have installed these LED's - were you able to re-secure the factory rubber boot over the rear of the bulb? As with any bulb, it would seem these would need to be protected against any water or moisture and the rear of the bulb looks significantly bigger than the factory H-4's.

Also - would covering those cooling fins with the factory boot cause any cooling problems...?

Yes I was able to re-secure that factory boot, and with over a year of use under their belts, no problems thus far.

 

[THatfield]

I think it would help to have them adjusted. But the question is, how much would it help? And I would assume they are much more than a modest bump over stock. I'm using the SilverStar Ultras and they are noticeably brighter than stock. So much so that I would routinely get flashed when driving with them. I did finally adjust them (have a 3" lift), but still occasionally get a flash. On the first page, THatfield posts pictures coming from Ultras and claims they are noticeably brighter than them. If that is true, I would think that it would be very intense to oncoming traffic, even with adjustment. Now, THatfield also claims that they are bright while not being bright to oncoming traffic. While that may be true, I don't see how that's possible.

I adjusted the headlights after install to minimize the potential for blinding other drivers.

with that being said, I most often get flashed on country roads, when people mistake the low beams for being on high. I'll be honest and say that I've been flashed a few times, however, my 2nd Gen GS430 with factory HID's got flashed quite a few times as well, and while I've had the 4Runner with these bulbs for nearly a year and a half, I only owned the GS for 3 months.

I also have a set of these PIAA's in my 2008, which has projectors. The ability to properly project and cutoff the beam makes these bulbs really excel. To say I'm not more aware of how my 99 may "scatter" the light and beam would be a lie. And I totally agree that the housing, being reflector, with LED, could be very intense. And to that point, I think measurements of output would be necessary. I personally felt they were a great improvement over the Sylvania's that I removed. However perhaps measurements will dictate that the output doesn't match my enthusiasm. And to that I suppose I'm only guilty of being excited for the product, because once first fired up, the difference was remarkable.

Bottom line, I think these bulbs are great, and while they don't seem to pose a risk without a projector, using them in a projector will get the best results out of the bulb and won't offend anyone. However PIAA released these with the intention of them being able to be used without a projector, which they can, and seemingly with little issue.

I took a chance on the bulbs when they first came out and haven't regretted it.

 

[phattyduck]

For those that have installed these LED's - were you able to re-secure the factory rubber boot over the rear of the bulb? As with any bulb, it would seem these would need to be protected against any water or moisture and the rear of the bulb looks significantly bigger than the factory H-4's.

Also - would covering those cooling fins with the factory boot cause any cooling problems...?

If you read the instructions, you will see that the factory boot gets installed in the 'middle' of the bulb. The bulb holder comes off, boot goes on, holder goes back in place. The cooling fins are behind the boot, the bulb goes into the housing and the boot seals it all up.

-Charlie

 

[Hepar]

with that being said, I most often get flashed on country roads, when people mistake the low beams for being on high.

Personally, that would be my biggest issue. Country roads are where light intensity is at its most extreme. Which is why they give you the option of a low and high beam. I've rarely had a situation where I needed more light than what my high beams could deliver (and in those ultra-rare occasions, I have a set of additional PIAA driving lights) and if I'm in a more metro area where there is more ambient light, normal beams are more than sufficient.

 

[pauldub]

"Does not comply with FMVSS108"

Probably because they blind oncoming drivers.

 

[Xntrik7]

I am running front and rear FJC coils that netted me around 2-inches of lift. I try to aim the beam cutoff so that it does not illuminate the cabin of oncoming cars.

Adjusting the beam downward about 16-notches so the beam does not go past the front of the oncoming driver’s hood. One thing to note is that this also helps when approaching a vehicle from behind. Your beams will not reflect light off of their rear-view and side mirrors.

I parked the truck in front of the TSX and started adjusting downward until I was satisfied with the amount of light leaking into the TSX. I also had my fiance drive towards me in the 4Runner to make sure that glare was tolerable.

-Dan

 

[phattyduck]

"Does not comply with FMVSS108"

Probably because they blind oncoming drivers.

Not specifically defending these bulbs... but it would be impossible to meet FMVSS108 with a non filament bulb to replace a filament bulb, no matter how perfect the light output was. Same goes for HID bulb replacments. The light source has to use the same technology as the original light source.

I may go with something like this for my Camry headlights (also use an H4 bulb with the housings I have) since it has fluted lenses, but I would probably go with a projector retrofit on the 4Runner with the clear housings...

-Charlie