New Stereo

I have the same ishtty OEM stereo that you started with. What's your take on how the front dash/door combo works?

I understand there are 4 wires to each dash tweeter?

WTF am I supposed to do with this if I want to convert my dash/door to a component situation? Should I just take it to an install and let them scratch up and ding my car but at least maybe get a better stereo for the pain?
 
mag10 said:
$200 is a great deal BFLAN!

Did you have to cut into the rear panel or did the box design fit up in the panel w/out deconstructing anything; ie: the divider/middle plastic molding in the far right rear corner (if that makes sense)?

Though it sticks out a little as you noted, it still looks really clean and is exactly what I'm after. Much cheaper than a "JL Stealth" box.
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Yes, the divider was cut out of the passenger side to allow the box to fit in there. I also had to move the factory 110 volt plug to the outside of the wheel well since the box concealed it in the factory location.

I agree, the look turned out very clean, exactly what I was wanting. All in all, I am still very pleased with the outcome.
 
4Funnr said:
I have the same ishtty OEM stereo that you started with. What's your take on how the front dash/door combo works?

I understand there are 4 wires to each dash tweeter?

WTF am I supposed to do with this if I want to convert my dash/door to a component situation? Should I just take it to an install and let them scratch up and ding my car but at least maybe get a better stereo for the pain?
Click to expand...

I love the way the front ended up. The sound is great, and everything is concealed in the factory spots.

Using components you will have a wire coming from your crossover going to both the tweeter and mid in the door. You need to find the full range wire to hook up to the crossover. I hope that makes sense.
 
So the wiring goes:

Head Unit --> Dash tweeter --> Front Door

I assume that the dash tweeter gets 2 wires from the HU and sends 2 to the doors, hence the 4 wires in the dash under the speaker?

I know several folks here have been twisting the 4 wires together and sticking them in a replacement 3.5" speaker in the dash. I'm not sure why that works.
 
^ That works due to the factory (sr5 base deck) running the door and dash speaker in parallel.

The dash speaker recieves the power from the deck and then passes it to the door speaker. It's different than any stock system I've seen.

I did JL 6.5 components up front like BFLAN did, and I'm very happy w/ the front stage now running in conjunction w/ a single 12" and rear 6.5" powered off a 600/6 amp.

I couldn't be happier w/ the quality of sound, which was also impacted by deadening the doors and hatch. The only thing I that would make me happier is that glass box in BLFAN's 4R! Damn that looks really sharp!
 
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mag10 said:
^ That works due to the factory (sr5 base deck) running the door and dash speaker in parallel.

The dash speaker recieves the power from the deck and then passes it to the door speaker. It's different than any stock system I've seen.

I did JL 6.5 components up front like BFLAN did, and I'm very happy w/ the front stage now running in conjunction w/ a single 12" and rear 6.5" powered off a 600/6 amp.

I couldn't be happier w/ the quality of sound, which was also impacted by deadening the doors and hatch. The only thing I that would make me happier is that glass box in BLFAN's 4R! Damn that looks really sharp!
Click to expand...

Thanks bro!

I really love it too. The best part for me (with a dog) is its out of the way, sounds great, looks good, and is, once again, out of the way!
 
mag10 said:
^ That works due to the factory (sr5 base deck) running the door and dash speaker in parallel.

The dash speaker recieves the power from the deck and then passes it to the door speaker. It's different than any stock system I've seen.

I did JL 6.5 components up front like BFLAN did, and I'm very happy w/ the front stage now running in conjunction w/ a single 12" and rear 6.5" powered off a 600/6 amp.

I couldn't be happier w/ the quality of sound, which was also impacted by deadening the doors and hatch. The only thing I that would make me happier is that glass box in BLFAN's 4R! Damn that looks really sharp!
Click to expand...

Did you post a thread that I missed? What amp did you use? Did you pull the door 6.5s altogether?
 
BFLAN said:
So I kept the stock HU, prob change later down the road.

Used an Audiocontrol Lx7 (under driver's seat) to get the signal from factory HU. Going to an Alpine PDX5 (under passenger seat). That is powering Focal 6.5 components in front, 6.5 Focal coaxs in the rear doors, and a 12" Fosgate P3 in rear. Box is fiberglass covered in vinyl.

I think it came out good, wish the box was a little shallower, but it had to come out that far to make room for the magnet of the sub.

Sounds great!!!
Click to expand...

Any noise using the Lx7? I'm looking to go with an Audiocontrol solution based on reputation. I'm a little concerned about alternator wine and/or popping on startup. Have you experienced any of this with yours?

Also, how did this setup effect "Party Mode"? Did you just wire the dash and door speakers as the fronts and the rear door speakers and tail gate speakers as the rears?

Thanks!
 
sm4r said:
Any noise using the Lx7? I'm looking to go with an Audiocontrol solution based on reputation. I'm a little concerned about alternator wine and/or popping on startup. Have you experienced any of this with yours?

Also, how did this setup effect "Party Mode"? Did you just wire the dash and door speakers as the fronts and the rear door speakers and tail gate speakers as the rears?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

No noise coming from the AudioControl, that is the main reason I bought it. They are known for making solutions that sound great and eliminate all the noise that normal line out converters can make.

I set it up so party mode is always on. Basically fronts are wired normally and the rear door speakers pull from the tailgate speakers. I disconnected the tailgate speakers, this way the front and rear doors are always on.

Hope that makes sense :)
 
BFLAN, could you tell me where you connected the audio control to the head unit and how many channels did you need to connect to, just the fronts or all 8?
 
axxman said:
BFLAN, could you tell me where you connected the audio control to the head unit and how many channels did you need to connect to, just the fronts or all 8?
Click to expand...

I didn't do the install. The shop that built the box charged me so little to install everything else it made sense for them to just do it.

But I know with the Audiocontrol you really only need to hook up one set of full range channels and it will take the source from that one set of channels and duplicate it for the rear channel and sub.

My is hooked up with two sets of channels. The front and rear hatch speakers, and I keep party mode on all the time. The rear channel is then duplicated by the Audiocontrol for the sub.

Hope that makes sense, for some reason today I cant seem to explain anything properly :)

As far as where its connected, I believe they pulled the source from directly behind the deck and ran wires down to the Audiocontrol under the drivers seat.
 
bflan said:
i hear ya no worries. Weird though cause you are the 1st negative comment i have heard about alpine pdx amps. Everyone runs them here and loves them. Maybe you just got a bad one?

No doubt the jl hd is also a good amp, but everyone i talked to recomended the alpine.
Click to expand...

jl hd is not just a good amp it`s an outstanding amp! Alpine is no garbage either.
 
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