New to 4th Gen... Need parts advice... Front CV Axles & Hub..

[98Fizzy]

Okay so here's the scoop brothers.
I've owned a 3rd gen (98) 4Runner sr5 for about 6 yrs now and all's been great. But moved to PA from NY and had 1 winter here. Truck did fine aside from only having rwd (it was originally from Texas). But not wanting to push my luck and thinking a second vehicle with 4x4 would be a good idea; i aquired a 04 4Runner sr5 4x4 like a week ago. Has about 208k miles.. My 98 has about 211k. Anyways; the 04 has green coolant dripping from radiator and i know it's the wrong stuff in there. Res was low and muddy but i took off and washed it out and topped with more green til new rad i ordered (koyo) arrives.. And then i'll run it our with red after distilled water. The real issue right now is the cv boots are torn.. And she gave me 4 box's of boots from napa she got. But having a pulsing womp womp and bouncing.. I decided to lift the front and see what was loose or if was tire. Turns out the driver side wheel with the rotor has massive play. It just rocks and flops pretty much between the caliper pads. I read alot on here prior to posting this.. And it's exhausting. Replace cv axles as a whole or mess with the boots.. And where to buy the cv axles and the hub and bearing as i'm thinking it's probably shot.. Less i get lucky and just have a loose axle nut. Advice? Thoughts and opinions?
I have a lot of questions about the 4th gen but this is priority so the other stuff will be in another post at a later date. Thanks brothers for any help. Much appreciated.

 

[Bob J]

I would recommend that you consider getting the A1 Cardone CV axels from partsgeek:

https://www.partsgeek.com/pj8w2g1-toyota-4runner-axle-assembly.html

Heavy duty thermoplastic outers is worth the money and there is no core to return so it saves you the trouble of shipping it back...

IIRC there is a T4R member in NJ that sells the complete hub bearing assembly... Seems like it would be the easiest way to go....

 

[KaseyMcc]

Okay so here's the scoop brothers.
I've owned a 3rd gen (98) 4Runner sr5 for about 6 yrs now and all's been great. But moved to PA from NY and had 1 winter here. Truck did fine aside from only having rwd (it was originally from Texas). But not wanting to push my luck and thinking a second vehicle with 4x4 would be a good idea; i aquired a 04 4Runner sr5 4x4 like a week ago. Has about 208k miles.. My 98 has about 211k. Anyways; the 04 has green coolant dripping from radiator and i know it's the wrong stuff in there. Res was low and muddy but i took off and washed it out and topped with more green til new rad i ordered (koyo) arrives.. And then i'll run it our with red after distilled water. The real issue right now is the cv boots are torn.. And she gave me 4 box's of boots from napa she got. But having a pulsing womp womp and bouncing.. I decided to lift the front and see what was loose or if was tire. Turns out the driver side wheel with the rotor has massive play. It just rocks and flops pretty much between the caliper pads. I read alot on here prior to posting this.. And it's exhausting. Replace cv axles as a whole or mess with the boots.. And where to buy the cv axles and the hub and bearing as i'm thinking it's probably shot.. Less i get lucky and just have a loose axle nut. Advice? Thoughts and opinions?
I have a lot of questions about the 4th gen but this is priority so the other stuff will be in another post at a later date. Thanks brothers for any help. Much appreciated.

I had torn boots recently and just replaced the whole shaft on both sides, plus the seals on the differential side and the steering knuckle side. I used axle shafts from Oreilly AutoParts, can't remember the brand but they were the more expensive ones and came with a lifetime warranty. They seem to be good quality so far, but if the boots crap out in 2 years I'll just replace them again because they're easy enough to swap out.
If you're needing to replace hub assemblies, here's a link to a guy on here that builds them
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...wheel-bearing-assemblies-4th-gen-nj-$169.html

 

[Billynath1988]

any of the name brand after market will be fine for the street. If your going to wheel it, just go CVJ and ideally OEM. its money but you do get what you pay for.
As far as hub bearings. The guy on here that builds them is the way to go.

 

[98Fizzy]

Thanks brothers. Looks like i'll be hitting up the guy on here for the hub assembly asap.

Yeah; so many threads i read about napa, cardone sucking and binding and having to replace etc. Just didn't want to be going through it over and over again.
Yeah; figured oem but super pricey and don't have that kinda money right now. Also read of the cvj.. No prices as far as i saw on their site though.
Looks like partsgeek is cheaper price than store... But do they have lifetime warranty too? Will have to check.
Just trying to make the bucks count as they are limited.
Thanks again brothers!

 

[Billynath1988]

Thanks brothers. Looks like i'll be hitting up the guy on here for the hub assembly asap.

Yeah; so many threads i read about napa, cardone sucking and binding and having to replace etc. Just didn't want to be going through it over and over again.
Yeah; figured oem but super pricey and don't have that kinda money right now. Also read of the cvj.. No prices as far as i saw on their site though.
Looks like partsgeek is cheaper price than store... But do they have lifetime warranty too? Will have to check.
Just trying to make the bucks count as they are limited.
Thanks again brothers!

The other option would be to rebuild them with boots from SDHQ OFFROAD. I have 140k of daily driven/ offroading miles on stock axles. I rebuilt them 3 years ago.. zero issues. A little messy but worth it in cost saving alone.

 

[98Fizzy]

The other option would be to rebuild them with boots from SDHQ OFFROAD. I have 140k of daily driven/ offroading miles on stock axles. I rebuilt them 3 years ago.. zero issues. A little messy but worth it in cost saving alone.

She gabe me napa boots with the Runner but not sure if the axles are stock or not and how long it's been ripped. The receipt in bag says they were purchased like in june or july. They don't appear to be making noise yet unless they passed that point already if that's possible?
Maybe i'll buy the ones off partsgeek as linked to above (if they are the least expensive) and rebuild the ones on it for future use if they are still good. Whatcha think?

 

[Billynath1988]

She gabe me napa boots with the Runner but not sure if the axles are stock or not and how long it's been ripped. The receipt in bag says they were purchased like in june or july. They don't appear to be making noise yet unless they passed that point already if that's possible?
Maybe i'll buy the ones off partsgeek as linked to above (if they are the least expensive) and rebuild the ones on it for future use if they are still good. Whatcha think?

If you dont know whether or not they are OEM. then dont bother.
https://parts.toyotaofdallas.com/ for OEM.. dont think about it again for a long time

Id call CVJ and get a quote for a replacement oem axle before going with any of those others..

 

[98Fizzy]

If you dont know whether or not they are OEM. then dont bother.
https://parts.toyotaofdallas.com/ for OEM.. dont think about it again for a long time

Id call CVJ and get a quote for a replacement oem axle before going with any of those others..

Kool beans brother. I have to order new seals for inner and outer right.. The axles don't come with them?

 

[Billynath1988]

Kool beans brother. I have to order new seals for inner and outer right.. The axles don't come with them?

Correct, be careful reinstalling, those seals are easily damaged.

 

[KaseyMcc]

Kool beans brother. I have to order new seals for inner and outer right.. The axles don't come with them?

Yes you'll need to order new seals--new axles won't come with them, as far as I'm aware. I went with ImportDirect brand from Oreilly's. I don't wheel it though, just a commuter at this point--if I were gonna be doing any wheeling I'd go with OEM or the CVJ. Can't remember the price point of CVJ but it is considerably more expensive than other aftermarket options.
Definitely replace the 2 diff seals and 2 knuckle seals while you've got it apart--even if you don't think you damaged anything while removing the old axles, you probably did...and all 4 seals should be less than $50--so for peace of mind's sake...
Just make sure you get the diff seals installed to the right depth--driver side is different seal and depth from the pass. side. It's not hard, just make sure you do your research before you go seating them in the diff.

 

[98Fizzy]

Yes you'll need to order new seals--new axles won't come with them, as far as I'm aware. I went with ImportDirect brand from Oreilly's. I don't wheel it though, just a commuter at this point--if I were gonna be doing any wheeling I'd go with OEM or the CVJ. Can't remember the price point of CVJ but it is considerably more expensive than other aftermarket options.
Definitely replace the 2 diff seals and 2 knuckle seals while you've got it apart--even if you don't think you damaged anything while removing the old axles, you probably did...and all 4 seals should be less than $50--so for peace of mind's sake...
Just make sure you get the diff seals installed to the right depth--driver side is different seal and depth from the pass. side. It's not hard, just make sure you do your research before you go seating them in the diff.

So i need to specify left inner and outer seals and right inner and outer seals. Gotcha.
If seals leak or leaked.. What would tell me other than fluid on ground?
Haven't checked level in the diff so just want to be prepared and informed in case.
I also saw and read that i could actually remove the boot from inner and just pulll axle leaving inner axle hub in place to avoid dealing with inner seal.. Just clean and reboot with fresh grease and put back in as boot is only thing holding inner axle to inner axle hub?
Not saying i want to do this.. Because i'd rather drain and replace it all anyways being a 200k mileage vehicle and not knowing when it was serviced last.

 

[Elan750]

uhh with that much play it sounds like your wheel bearing is toasted.

 

[Billynath1988]

So i need to specify left inner and outer seals and right inner and outer seals. Gotcha.
If seals leak or leaked.. What would tell me other than fluid on ground?
Haven't checked level in the diff so just want to be prepared and informed in case.
I also saw and read that i could actually remove the boot from inner and just pulll axle leaving inner axle hub in place to avoid dealing with inner seal.. Just clean and reboot with fresh grease and put back in as boot is only thing holding inner axle to inner axle hub?
Not saying i want to do this.. Because i'd rather drain and replace it all anyways being a 200k mileage vehicle and not knowing when it was serviced last.

you can, but I wouldnt. those seals should be changed. even if they arent leaking.. they will.. and then you gotta do the same job over again. Id personally go with OEM seals, for the same reason. If they are leaking you will see fluid stain where the cv goes into the diff.. if its bad there will be a drip on the ground. For good measure you might as well also change your front diff fluid AFTER you finish the cv job. Fill it until it comes out the fill port. there is plenty of threads on doing that.

 

[98Fizzy]

you can, but I wouldnt. those seals should be changed. even if they arent leaking.. they will.. and then you gotta do the same job over again. Id personally go with OEM seals, for the same reason. If they are leaking you will see fluid stain where the cv goes into the diff.. if its bad there will be a drip on the ground. For good measure you might as well also change your front diff fluid AFTER you finish the cv job. Fill it until it comes out the fill port. there is plenty of threads on doing that.

Okay. Yeah; i plan to drain and fil fron and rear diffs along with the engine and trans.
Anything else i should look out for?

 

[Billynath1988]

Okay. Yeah; i plan to drain and fil fron and rear diffs along with the engine and trans.
Anything else i should look out for?

be very careful with the ABS sensors and wires. otherwise the rest is pretty straight forward. You will need the axle nut socket, maybe get your torque wrench out as well to do it right.

 

[KaseyMcc]

Okay. Yeah; i plan to drain and fil fron and rear diffs along with the engine and trans.
Anything else i should look out for?

Might as well do your transmission filter while you're at it. Not much to it, just don't overtorque the bolts when you reinstall the pan...and make sure you don't use a damn cork seal.

Edit: A scan tool that gives trans fluid temp makes setting the fluid level pretty easy.

 

[98Fizzy]

be very careful with the ABS sensors and wires. otherwise the rest is pretty straight forward. You will need the axle nut socket, maybe get your torque wrench out as well to do it right.

Thanks again for the tips. Definitely using the torue wrench.

 

[98Fizzy]

Might as well do your transmission filter while you're at it. Not much to it, just don't overtorque the bolts when you reinstall the pan...and make sure you don't use a damn cork seal.

Edit: A scan tool that gives trans fluid temp makes setting the fluid level pretty easy.

Yikes.. I'd love to but that's one thing that i haven't even done on the 3rd gen yet. The process with the filter being inside and maybe cost of the filter kinda put me off. I'll try looking all that stuff up again to see what it takes and costs for parts. It has to be replaced.. Not cleaned right?
"A scan tool that gives trans fluid temp makes setting the fluid level pretty easy." ...?

 

[KaseyMcc]

Yikes.. I'd love to but that's one thing that i haven't even done on the 3rd gen yet. The process with the filter being inside and maybe cost of the filter kinda put me off. I'll try looking all that stuff up again to see what it takes and costs for parts. It has to be replaced.. Not cleaned right?
"A scan tool that gives trans fluid temp makes setting the fluid level pretty easy." ...?

It's not that complicated, there are write ups on here. It is a bit more of a chore because you'll have to remove some of the exhaust to get the transmission pan off. If you break bolts, it could obviously turn into a more involved project. Once the exhaust is out of the way the transmission filter is really easy to replace. I think i picked mine up for around $50--you'd want to replace, not clean.
My scan tool comment is regarding setting the proper fluid level. The trans fluid needs to be within a certain temperature range to get an accurate level using the overflow port. You let the trans fluid reach the correct temp range, then pull the overflow/inspection plug to let any excess fluid drain out. Then reinstall the plug.