Nitto Ridge Grappler?

[Rightside Up]

The 285s are growing on me, but still thinking about the 1.25 spacers to move those tires out a smidge for a better look. My installer said that will def cause rubbing issues in several spots. Perhaps a set of aftermarket wheels with proper offset/bs would get them pushed out an inch or so..? He said no rubbing as of now and alignment ended up with 0 camber, very slight 0.2ish toe in (he recommended) and best caster they could do was about 2.5. Set of Billstein 5100s for rear coming tomorrow and he wants to extend rear brake lines as a cautionary move. Front/rear mudflap removal looks 110% better IMHO. Havent decided on new UCAs yet or not. Any comments or thoughts?

I think it looks good as it is.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

The 285s are growing on me, but still thinking about the 1.25 spacers to move those tires out a smidge for a better look. My installer said that will def cause rubbing issues in several spots. Perhaps a set of aftermarket wheels with proper offset/bs would get them pushed out an inch or so..? He said no rubbing as of now and alignment ended up with 0 camber, very slight 0.2ish toe in (he recommended) and best caster they could do was about 2.5. Set of Billstein 5100s for rear coming tomorrow and he wants to extend rear brake lines as a cautionary move. Front/rear mudflap removal looks 110% better IMHO. Havent decided on new UCAs yet or not. Any comments or thoughts?

It looks great! If you go with aftermarket wheels, go 17x8 with 4.5" BS and o offset. You'll rub the bumper but "should" not need a body mount chop. 2.5* of caster isn't terrible but see how it is on a crowned road. Mine at 1* of caster drags me all over the road, have to switch lanes. As for wheel spacers, lots of guys run them, I have run them, I don't like them though. Just another failure point that will likely never fail but there's always a what if. If you absolutely must have them, G2 or SpiderTrax are the only 2 good options. Avoid the ebay junk, just like the control arms. IMO for control arms, I think Dobinson if you don't mind not having a grease fitting, Camburg if you like the idea of the ball joint having a grease fitting which I do. Lots of guys run JBA but there's just something about them I don't trust. They use a BJ that doesn't fit out knuckles so they supply a shim. The ball joint is bolted to the arm with a bolt and nylock nut. The bolt is too short to penetrate the nylock making the nylock useless. If they don't bother with the proper length bolt, what else did they not bother with?

 

[energie]

Seeing that the ridge grapplers have 2 different sidewalls why do most people choose the one on the left? The side wall on the right seems more rugged.

 

[TheWraith]

Seeing that the ridge grapplers have 2 different sidewalls why do most people choose the one on the left? The side wall on the right seems more rugged.

It's preference... I chose the one of the right because it's more of a traditional / conservative look. The one on the left is suppose to be more aggressive pattern but looks to cartoony for me...

 

[enkrypt3d]

It's preference... I chose the one of the right because it's more of a traditional / conservative look. The one on the left is suppose to be more aggressive pattern but looks to cartoony for me...

lets see some pics of how it looks vs the other pattern?

I think the right side is more aggressive but maybe it's the angle the pic was taken.

 

[Mvrocky]

It is more aggressive I have them on my 4Runner, I run the less aggressive sidewall, the is aggressive one creates wind noise on the highway.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[TheWraith]

lets see some pics of how it looks vs the other pattern?

I think the right side is more aggressive but maybe it's the angle the pic was taken.

Here's mine on 35x12.5x17's

 

[BigNoggin]

It looks great! If you go with aftermarket wheels, go 17x8 with 4.5" BS and o offset. You'll rub the bumper but "should" not need a body mount chop. 2.5* of caster isn't terrible but see how it is on a crowned road. Mine at 1* of caster drags me all over the road, have to switch lanes. As for wheel spacers, lots of guys run them, I have run them, I don't like them though. Just another failure point that will likely never fail but there's always a what if. If you absolutely must have them, G2 or SpiderTrax are the only 2 good options. Avoid the ebay junk, just like the control arms. IMO for control arms, I think Dobinson if you don't mind not having a grease fitting, Camburg if you like the idea of the ball joint having a grease fitting which I do. Lots of guys run JBA but there's just something about them I don't trust. They use a BJ that doesn't fit out knuckles so they supply a shim. The ball joint is bolted to the arm with a bolt and nylock nut. The bolt is too short to penetrate the nylock making the nylock useless. If they don't bother with the proper length bolt, what else did they not bother with?

Thanks and great info. Now looking at aftermkt wheels how would you think a wheel with these specs would differ from the TEP stock wheels I am running now with my 285/70r17 RGs:

Proposed New Wheel:
Size: 17x8.5
PCD: 6 x 139.7
Backspace: 4.30"
ET (offset): -10mm
Weight: 23lbs
CB: 107mm

TEP Stock (currently running):
Size: 17x7.5
PCD: 6 x 139.7
Backspace: 4.875”
ET (offset): 15mm
Weight: ??
CB: ??

Thanks to anyone for any comments!

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Thanks and great info. Now looking at aftermkt wheels how would you think a wheel with these specs would differ from the TEP stock wheels I am running now with my 285/70r17 RGs:

Proposed New Wheel:
Size: 17x8.5
PCD: 6 x 139.7
Backspace: 4.30"
ET (offset): -10mm
Weight: 23lbs
CB: 107mm

TEP Stock (currently running):
Size: 17x7.5
PCD: 6 x 139.7
Backspace: 4.875”
ET (offset): 15mm
Weight: ??
CB: ??

Thanks to anyone for any comments!

I honestly am not certain and I don't claim to be a wheel expert lol. All I know is what I am currently using and it works.

Here's what my limited knowledge tells me though for what it's worth and keep in mind this advice is free!

New wheels are going to have 25mm less back spacing which equals .98" less back spacing which will push them out of the fender wells further. They are also 1" wider which pushes them out even further. IF and I stress IF I understand the way this works correctly, your tires will stick out 2" further than they do now which IMO will lead to excessive rubbing pretty much everywhere.

Can anyone confirm this or school me? Either one is fine!

 

[gm350reratliff]

Thanks and great info. Now looking at aftermkt wheels how would you think a wheel with these specs would differ from the TEP stock wheels I am running now with my 285/70r17 RGs:

Proposed New Wheel:
Size: 17x8.5
PCD: 6 x 139.7
Backspace: 4.30"
ET (offset): -10mm
Weight: 23lbs
CB: 107mm

TEP Stock (currently running):
Size: 17x7.5
PCD: 6 x 139.7
Backspace: 4.875”
ET (offset): 15mm
Weight: ??
CB: ??

Thanks to anyone for any comments!

New wheels have .5" less back spacing and are 1" wider which translates to, the face of the new wheel will stick out 1.5" more than your current wheels do and you will gain .5" of clearance between the steering knuckle and UCA. It should look pretty good but you may have to do some trimming due to it sticking out a little more and the increases width.

 

[BigNoggin]

New wheels have .5" less back spacing and are 1" wider which translates to, the face of the new wheel will stick out 1.5" more than your current wheels do and you will gain .5" of clearance between the steering knuckle and UCA. It should look pretty good but you may have to do some trimming due to it sticking out a little more and the increases width.

Thanks! Honestly, that sounds pretty much perfect to me. At what point do you folks think I will need a UCA upgrade and/or the Body Mount Chop?

 

[bryantd85]

Put on Ridge Grapplers like 3 months ago. Look fantastic, but I do rub at full over. I'm not rubbing in the front part of the wheel well, just on the mud flap.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Thanks! Honestly, that sounds pretty much perfect to me. At what point do you folks think I will need a UCA upgrade and/or the Body Mount Chop?

Anything over 2" needs UCA to get the alignment right. BMC is different for every truck, there is no science to it. I can tell you though, the more your wheels stick out, the higher the chance you'll need a BMC

 

[DM4RNR]

Just got my 255/80 tires today. With the rain here in San Antonio today I did not slip and slide like my old S/T Maxx tires. They almost feel softer than the Coopers too, but I only have a few miles on them so it's too early to be sure.

 

[gm350reratliff]

Thanks! Honestly, that sounds pretty much perfect to me. At what point do you folks think I will need a UCA upgrade and/or the Body Mount Chop?

Usually, lifting over 2” will start to require aftermarket UCA’s to get the alignment dialed in. As for the BMC, you’ll know when you need it. If it rubs, you need it. If not you’re good.

 

[BigNoggin]

Usually, lifting over 2” will start to require aftermarket UCA’s to get the alignment dialed in. As for the BMC, you’ll know when you need it. If it rubs, you need it. If not you’re good.

Gotcha thanks. As to the BMC, will the rub be evident in normal driving just straight down the road or only at extremes like full turn etc?

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Generally only while turning sharp

 

[gm350reratliff]

Gotcha thanks. As to the BMC, will the rub be evident in normal driving just straight down the road or only at extremes like full turn etc?

Only when turning sharp or turning while compressing the suspension, say like turning up a steep driveway or off-roading. You will most likely hear it, feel it. You will also be able to see the paint rubbed off the body mount after a while.

 

[BigNoggin]

Generally only while turning sharp

Got it - thanks my friend.

 

[BigNoggin]

Only when turning sharp or turning while compressing the suspension, say like turning up a steep driveway or off-roading. You will most likely hear it, feel it. You will also be able to see the paint rubbed off the body mount after a while.

Perfect -thanks!