Not understanding what I'm reading on rear shocks?

Hello everyone I just did bilsteins up front on my KDSS TEP, it was quite simple, and now want to do the rears.

This is bilstein 5100 specific questions

As I wait for the ups man I always search and research. I'm not finding much on the rear shocks or the install (I've done plenty but still look for tips, tricks and unforeseen headaches)

What I keep reading is the shock is too short?? And people are adding bushings and stuff to make it work. I'm confused. When a shock is too short or looks to be but it is indeed the right part I've always fed the damper rod through top hole and tightened the nut enough to hold it in place and pull the shock down and into the bottom mounting bracket and have a buddy feed the big bolt through.

Just looking for clarification. I'm sure there are a few installs on these 5100's to the rear but they must be buried in build threads and I haven't found them yet.

Can someone just clarify for me. Install should be simple but want to be sure I'm not overlooking anything. Thanks.
 
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He used icon.... I'm looking for bilstein specific. Keep reading they don't fit with out "adding" parts -Not sure how that is.

While I don't have Bilsteins yet, from everything I've read, the 5100s for the rear are longer than the OEM shocks, and come with OEM equivalent bushings. Should be a simple and straightforward install.
 
Do you have a lift on truck. If you do you probably need extended shocks. If no lift then regular shocks should fit. I usually put bottom bolt in first then compress a little by hand and feed top bolt through. One man job.
 
I watched that one several times waiting on front shocks to arrive.

He used icon.... I'm looking for bilstein specific. Keep reading they don't fit with out "adding" parts -Not sure how that is.

If you order the correct shock for your application it should have the correct hardware. Some shocks are designed specifically for a certain level of lift to your length question.

For the 5100's, you can see in the link below that the part number listed applies to a vehicle with 0-2" of rear lift. The picture shows the hardware, I wouldn't expect it to be any different than any shock, the included hardware (spacers, bushings) might be slightly different in apprearance but the manufacturer should include a schematic with proper install

https://wheelersoffroad.com/product...38992/bilstein-33-187174-5100-rear-shock-set/
 
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Yeah I have the correct shock ordered and have only lifted front end myself 1.5" (.85 on 5100 fronts see here
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...-lift-0-rear-lift-question-2.html#post2507801)

I'll be good with the install just know I've seen it in different spots here and on reviews at different vendors stating the shock is shorter and needs modification. It just baffled me. It was weird and was hoping somebody else noticed this strange info posted sporadically around the forums

I know I need the 0-2" shock and should be here today thanks to Prime shipping

I've never had a problem with any suspension mods. Just strange you guys havent heard or read what I've mentioned. Hmmmm let me try and post one example. A review.

I'm just hoping to help people out who may not be well versed in suspension mods but at the same time this info was confusing me. When you read something more than once about guys modifying a shock to make it fit and nobody follows up to refute that post that really got me thinking mainly because I know most here can diy most things on our rigs

Keep in mind I've seen these words more than once

I mean I've run into diff size shocks. You mount the damper rod and pull shock into lower mount. I'm hoping people aren't installing these wrong. Guess that's what I'm getting at




If you order the correct shock for your application it should have the correct hardware. Some shocks are designed specifically for a certain level of lift to your length question.

For the 5100's, you can see in the link below that the part number listed applies to a vehicle with 0-2" of rear lift. The picture shows the hardware, I wouldn't expect it to be any different than any shock, the included hardware (spacers, bushings) might be slightly different in apprearance but the manufacturer should include a schematic with proper install

https://wheelersoffroad.com/product...38992/bilstein-33-187174-5100-rear-shock-set/
 
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I did my bilsteins a couple weeks ago 1.75" front stock rear. I was trippin on the rear also being longer. Been offroad a couple times now and taken it 55-60ish thru a couple sand washes no bottoming out on the rears.

They are a pain to compress when you install mostly because I just stuck the jack under the axle. Stick jack stands under your frame take both wheels off and let the rear suspension droop out should be easier.

Fronts unbolt your upper ball joint, tie rod, and sway bar, Sway bar needs to be disconnected on both sides to move it out of the way. I ended up ditching the sway bar completely. The coils are different on each side my passenger had one extra wrap, made it weird to clamp the spring compressor on the coil.

But no issues there either took about 3 hours total taking my time with beer breaks and having to work on my driveway instead of in my garage.

And bolts are kind of stupid on these, front strut upper rear bolt closest to the engine is impossible to get a socket on so had to use a open end and do small turns rear shock had to put a rubber oil filter strap around the shock body to unbolt the rear upper shock nut. Again nothing challenging at all just minor annoying things.
 
See that is what I am used to the shock being longer and you having to compress it into place when I read the thing is too short that was just weird

I just did my KDSS front end. It was easy.


I did my bilsteins a couple weeks ago 1.75" front stock rear. I was trippin on the rear also being longer. Been offroad a couple times now and taken it 55-60ish thru a couple sand washes no bottoming out on the rears.

They are a pain to compress when you install mostly because I just stuck the jack under the axle. Stick jack stands under your frame take both wheels off and let the rear suspension droop out should be easier.

Fronts unbolt your upper ball joint, tie rod, and sway bar, Sway bar needs to be disconnected on both sides to move it out of the way. I ended up ditching the sway bar completely. The coils are different on each side my passenger had one extra wrap, made it weird to clamp the spring compressor on the coil.

But no issues there either took about 3 hours total taking my time with beer breaks and having to work on my driveway instead of in my garage.

And bolts are kind of stupid on these, front strut upper rear bolt closest to the engine is impossible to get a socket on so had to use a open end and do small turns rear shock had to put a rubber oil filter strap around the shock body to unbolt the rear upper shock nut. Again nothing challenging at all just minor annoying things.
 
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See that is what I am used to the shock being longer and you having to compress it into place when I read the thing is too short that was just weird

Who knows maybe the guy is stupid maybe he drooped the rear out all the way? My box said for fj cruiser 0-2" that's what thru me off since I ordered from summit. But double checked on camburgs website and everything matched so I just installed them.

Part number for the rear should be BSN-33-187174
 
The comment is talking about the stud on the top of the shock being shorter than oem. Sometimes it is hard to get the threads started when all the bushings are in place... as the stud does not stick out far enough .. I'm sure that is what the review is talking about. Not the compressed/extended length of the shock itself.
 
The comment is talking about the stud on the top of the shock being shorter than oem. Sometimes it is hard to get the threads started when all the bushings are in place... as the stud does not stick out far enough .. I'm sure that is what the review is talking about. Not the compressed/extended length of the shock itself.

Makes perfect sense, if I remember right I had maybe 3 threads of engagement when I put the nut on by hand..
 
Hello everyone I just did bilsteins up front on my KDSS TEP, it was quite simple, and now want to do the rears.

This is bilstein 5100 specific questions

As I wait for the ups man I always search and research. I'm not finding much on the rear shocks or the install (I've done plenty but still look for tips, tricks and unforeseen headaches)

What I keep reading is the shock is too short?? And people are adding bushings and stuff to make it work. I'm confused. When a shock is too short or looks to be but it is indeed the right part (its resting length shouldn't matter) I've always fed the damper rod through top hole and tightened the nut enough to hold it in place and pull the shock down and into the bottom mounting bracket and have a buddy feed the big bolt through.

Just looking for clarification. I'm sure there are a few installs on these 5100's to the rear but they must be buried in build threads and I haven't found them yet.

Can someone just clarify for me. Install should be simple but want to be sure I'm not overlooking anything. Thanks.

Honestly - I wouldn’t worry about it. T-O-N-S of guys on here running this setup, pretty much ZERO mention of anything you are talking about on any of the threads that I have ever seen. I completely realize you are just doing to your homework to minimize surprises, but in this case, I wouldn’t sweat it. You seem like you know what you are doing, and have researched plenty already... just knock it out like you did the front and I imagine it will go smooth like butta’.

You’re kind of jumping into the “Hmmm, I’ve got a red mark on my thigh I’ve never seen before, and this website says it might be a serious illness” territory. If you’ve ordered the right parts, you’ll be fine. :cheers:
 
Can you use the stock rear shocks with a 10mm spacer? I want to do 5100's at .85 setting and 10mm spacer in rear
 
The comment is talking about the stud on the top of the shock being shorter than oem. Sometimes it is hard to get the threads started when all the bushings are in place... as the stud does not stick out far enough .. I'm sure that is what the review is talking about. Not the compressed/extended length of the shock itself.

Makes sense. Lol

Guess some people don't know some of the tricks. "Opposing forces"

Thanks. That makes more sense. I guarantee there are some wacko mods on some trucks then. I'd never call anyone stupid but I have read the post is too short a few times
 
Honestly - I wouldn’t worry about it. T-O-N-S of guys on here running this setup, pretty much ZERO mention of anything you are talking about on any of the threads that I have ever seen. I completely realize you are just doing to your homework to minimize surprises, but in this case, I wouldn’t sweat it. You seem like you know what you are doing, and have researched plenty already... just knock it out like you did the front and I imagine it will go smooth like butta’.

You’re kind of jumping into the “Hmmm, I’ve got a red mark on my thigh I’ve never seen before, and this website says it might be a serious illness” territory. If you’ve ordered the right parts, you’ll be fine. :cheers:

Lol. True. And thanks brother for the response - I just don't see any issues with doing these shocks but thought I'd ask about the "to short" crap I was skimming over.

 
Can you use the stock rear shocks with a 10mm spacer? I want to do 5100's at .85 setting and 10mm spacer in rear

Answer - yes you can


Is there a reason why you want to do this. I just did the .85 setting and the rear in relation to the front is perfect.

I'm trying to keep this rig close to a stock settings and geometry. I've done the big lifts and on Toyota's it's a domino effect big lift leads to re-gearing leads to etc etc

But if you're only going to .85 look at my link above where I just did that lift and see if you like the height in relation to the rear

But to answer your question yes you can put a spacer back there you can do pretty much anything you want back there as long as your shock has enough travel when you run out of travel you need longer shocks you could do lots of rake if you wanted (lift the back til your hearts content ��)LOL
 
Answer - yes you can


Is there a reason why you want to do this. I just did the .85 setting and the rear in relation to the front is perfect.

I'm trying to keep this rig close to a stock settings and geometry. I've done the big lifts and on Toyota's it's a domino effect big lift leads to re-gearing leads to etc etc

But if you're only going to .85 look at my link above where I just did that lift and see if you like the height in relation to the rear

But to answer your question yes you can put a spacer back there you can do pretty much anything you want back there as long as your shock has enough travel when you run out of travel you need longer shocks you could do lots of rake if you wanted (lift the back til your hearts content ��)LOL

i assumed the stock shock could deal with an extra 10mm but wanted to ask

the reason i want a rear spacer is because i often carry weight in the rear and don't like the rear looking squatted, i think the rake that it comes with is about right and want to keep it after lifting the front
 
i assumed the stock shock could deal with an extra 10mm but wanted to ask

the reason i want a rear spacer is because i often carry weight in the rear and don't like the rear looking squatted, i think the rake that it comes with is about right and want to keep it after lifting the front

Ok cool. You're not too far. If you're ever up this way and need a hand just holler

I'm at 23430


And I only asked because that's a lot of work for 10mm of height. Keep us updated��
 

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