NSS/Range Selector Switch - P0705 code

[kenwilliams0803]

Hi all. I started to notice with the 4Runner not doing 1k mile weeks anymore, the auto shifter started to feel "sticky".

Then last weekend I had to make a little 45 min journey somewhere and noticed my cruise wasn't working.

Upon leaving my destination, check engine light and trac off lights were on, plus it would only very sporadically hit OD (5th) even on the highway. Also the gear indicator on the dash was blank.

Once home, I scanned the codes and got a P0705 neutral switch/range selector open or shorted. I had expected exactly this based upon the symptoms.

Has anyone had to change one of these on a 5th gen? Searching reveals mostly 4th gen threads. It's a 2012 with 140k on it. I have already located the position of the sensor and ordered one, but I know these can be a real pain to get off on Jeeps. Any tips?

Strangest thing too. I cleared the codes and it's back to normal. Shifter is like butter again. Still going to replace it for peace of mind. I can't get stuck with no OD or cruise 9 hours from home on a work trip.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

Realized I have this old homemade cobble welded NSS puller from my Jeep days. If the threads on the Toyota NSS are the same size I think this might make the job monumentally easier.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

Ok that was a 4-5 hour job just to get the old one off. They put these things in the most recessed, awful place ever where it's tough to get leverage on anything. Believe it or not, the lower trans cooler line boss was my best friend.

I had to break 3 of the 4 ears off the NSS collett and just go for broke after much PB Blaster for days and then heat a few times. But you can't heat it that much, there is a seal behind it.

Very different than a Jeep NSS. I was prepared to dremel this thing off the shaft or get my die grinder out. And you have an 02 sensor blocking your world so a puller doesn't work well. Large American hands hurt you too, you need tiny little Japanese hands.

The old one is now completely sacrificed, but thank god it's all off. I still haven't even gotten to getting the new one on yet. But that'll take 20 min once I clean up the shaft a little more first.

I can imagine if you were down South or something it would likely just pull off with your fingers. The NE climate killed me on this one.

 

[Mutant138]

Sounds like fun...

Feel your pain. Wonder what the FSM has to say about the job.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

Sounds like fun...



Feel your pain. Wonder what the FSM has to say about the job.

I'd love to see. I don't even think they make a special tool or anything because I know the dealers struggle big time with these things too. Nothing like paying $500 in labor to change a sensor held on with one bolt and one nut that isn't even buried under the intake manifold or something...

There are a ton of videos and how to threads on doing the Jeep one. Finding info on the process for this one is very elusive. Luckily its essentially the same as doing the Jeep one except pry points are just about non-existant.

I actually called a buddy from another forum who used to be a GM tech when I was close to giving up. He assured me that I need to keep working on it, and if needed get the dremel or die grinder out as I had been thinking was likely the only option at that point. His words were "that's all a dealer would be doing if you take it there. The $4-500 in labor is probably justified based on what you told me and you might as well save yourself the money."

After struggling for 4 hours, one good shot finally got it to move about 1/3" with a giant SQUEAK. I knew I had won the battle at that point but it still took maybe another hour to get it completely off.

 

[Mutant138]

I'd love to see. I don't even think they make a special tool or anything because I know the dealers struggle big time with these things too. Nothing like paying $500 in labor to change a sensor held on with one bolt and one nut that isn't even buried under the intake manifold or something...

There are a ton of videos and how to threads on doing the Jeep one. Finding info on the process for this one is very elusive. Luckily its essentially the same as doing the Jeep one except pry points are just about non-existant.

I actually called a buddy from another forum who used to be a GM tech when I was close to giving up. He assured me that I need to keep working on it, and if needed get the dremel or die grinder out as I had been thinking was likely the only option at that point. His words were "that's all a dealer would be doing if you take it there. The $4-500 in labor is probably justified based on what you told me and you might as well save yourself the money."

After struggling for 4 hours, one good shot finally got it to move about 1/3" with a giant SQUEAK. I knew I had won the battle at that point but it still took maybe another hour to get it completely off.

Jeeze. Good times. My knuckle hurts thinking about it.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

Jeeze. Good times. My knuckle hurts thinking about it.

I actually made it the whole way with only a couple minor scrapes because I was careful to use gloves and also glasses, lying underneath this thing with rust going down at my face. I really didn't want a trip for stitches or an eye drilling right now. I can likely count on two hands the number of times I've used safety glasses in my own garage but I did this time. And I work on stuff a lot.

And wouldn't you know it, I snug up the adjustment bolt without gloves, call it done, and bust a knuckle on my rocker panel pinch weld while rolling out to celebrate. Such is my life. No stitches needed though.

 

[Mutant138]

I actually made it the whole way with only a couple minor scrapes because I was careful to use gloves and also glasses, lying underneath this thing with rust going down at my face. I really didn't want a trip for stitches or an eye drilling right now. I can likely count on two hands the number of times I've used safety glasses in my own garage but I did this time. And I work on stuff a lot.

And wouldn't you know it, I snug up the adjustment bolt without gloves, call it done, and bust a knuckle on my rocker panel pinch weld while rolling out to celebrate. Such is my life. No stitches needed though.

Yeah that sounds about right.

Yesterday I sold some wheel spacers. Got stoked on the deal. Proceeded to back up into an unmarked police car like a jabroni. Not much damage to their vehicle but I crushed a $40 bumper mount.

 

[Bossman]

I recently ran into this very same issue on my 2011 Limited with 169,000 km.

Three dash warning lights activated while driving - the Check Engine light was on; the Slip Indicator was on; and the 4-LO Lowspeed 4WD Indicator was flashing.

Using my OBD II Code Reader, the Error Code P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input) came up.

I then came here and found [MENTION=157417]kenwilliams0803[/MENTION] thread on this P0705 issue - a big thank you for the posts and pics!

I can't say for certain that I truly noticed that moving the gear shifter was becoming all that difficult over time.

Based on my research, I anticipated that the A/T Gear Position Sensor aka the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) Assembly had failed.

Toyota Canada Part number for the NSS is 84540-35060.

My independent mechanic confirmed the switch failure, and after waiting several days for the local Toyota dealership to get this part in, the old switch was removed (not easily removed due to the corrosion) and the new switch was installed.

My mechanic showed me the inside of the old switch, and the internal corrosion that was on the internal contacts.

The new switch cost $263.00 CAN.

With the new switch, moving the gear shifter does seem a bit smoother

 

[GupsT4R]

Jeeze 4 to 5 hour removal!

Anyone with a new or almost new truck and those who have already done the repair should remove, anti seize and a dab of silicone on the end of the shaft.
This repair almost seems inevitable.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

Jeeze 4 to 5 hour removal!



Anyone with a new or almost new truck and those who have already done the repair should remove, anti seize and a dab of silicone on the end of the shaft.

This repair almost seems inevitable.

I would agree on this. It's gotta be pretty darn easy to do with 0 corrosion yet. Just need to mark it (it slides to adjust - the one actual bolt has a slotted hole in the sensor where it goes through) so that you get it back on at the same adjustment it came off with. If not, a little trial and error works too. My first shot was placing it in the middle of the adjustment range and trying it. Started in P. Started in N. Shifted fine. Done deal.

Worst case, you keep adjusting it little by little until it works right.

And BTW, I anti seized the crap out of my new one, but hadn't though of adding silicone grease. Thanks for that. This could have been a 30 minute job.

Although at 140k, it's unlikely I'll have to do this one again. It's one of the top 3 longest periods that I have ever kept a vehicle (4 years almost now), and I love it, but I'll probably end up with a GX460 in the next year or 2, provided life and compensation return to normal.

 

[flyrv9]

There was a thread here about this same issue a while back. Same code and same problem. The OP took his switch off and opened it up. It was full of corrosion and obvious that moisture was the cause. I guess they don't seal too well. He had to order one and needed his truck; so he cleaned it and put it back. I don't remember him having a tough time with the removal other than access.

 

[GupsT4R]

Id imagine anyone living in a region that gets salted during the winter will have corrosion and somewhat difficult time removing unit. if so lucky guy.

Also remember anything torqued with anti-seize requires 30% less value as is considered lubricated.

 

[Omagunagitya]

I just replaced the Neutral Safety Switch (Transmission Range Sensor) on my '05 SR5 and had the same struggles as a lot of people here in removing the old one. A good piece of advice that I wanted to share was to sand the rectangular post using a Dremel (barrel-shaped sander bit) BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO PULL ON IT... and the old one should come off a lot easier. I didn't try this until after I spent 5 frustrating hours using gear pullers and prybars. Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

[WT4Runner1]

Range Sensor code P0705

So I took my 2016 SR5 4WD in for an oil change and a day after driving it home, suddenly I'm seeing the check engine light, 4LO is blinking, and the Trak Off light is illuminated.

I'm not sure it is the dealer's fault or anything untoward is happening.

Shifter is stiff.

I live in Wisconsin and about one block from a large river watershed and it fogs up a lot an night and then it freezes on your vehicle. I think my range sensor is corroded probably.

I'm guessing I have a similar issue to those described here.

So I took it to auto parts store for the sensor and P0705 pops up.

Guy mentions it may just need a new battery. To see if that is what it was, I disconnected the battery and kept if off for a few minutes. All lights were off upon ignition after re-hooking battery up. Drove it around and now only the 4LO light is on and blinking. Re-disconnect battery for 10 minutes or so, all codes and blinking lights off, shifting better.

Though I think I should probably swap the sensor discussed here. Aftermarket they appear to be generally under $100.

My question is, where on the transmission is it located? Do I need to get under the truck and take off any skid plates?

Unable to located a video for 4Runners on Youtube to do it.

If someone could kind of give me a general direction, that would be helpful. Will I need to remove skid plates, what tools I might need though it sounds like it is mostly just some elbow grease and grit to get the part off of the transmission housing.

I did find this video and it appears he is working under the vehicle since light is coming from above in the engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeUNtUkLBwM

Thanks in advance.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

So I took my 2016 SR5 4WD in for an oil change and a day after driving it home, suddenly I'm seeing the check engine light, 4LO is blinking, and the Trak Off light is illuminated.

I'm not sure it is the dealer's fault or anything untoward is happening.

Shifter is stiff.

I live in Wisconsin and about one block from a large river watershed and it fogs up a lot an night and then it freezes on your vehicle. I think my range sensor is corroded probably.

I'm guessing I have a similar issue to those described here.

So I took it to auto parts store for the sensor and P0705 pops up.

Guy mentions it may just need a new battery. To see if that is what it was, I disconnected the battery and kept if off for a few minutes. All lights were off upon ignition after re-hooking battery up. Drove it around and now only the 4LO light is on and blinking. Re-disconnect battery for 10 minutes or so, all codes and blinking lights off, shifting better.

Though I think I should probably swap the sensor discussed here. Aftermarket they appear to be generally under $100.

My question is, where on the transmission is it located? Do I need to get under the truck and take off any skid plates?

Unable to located a video for 4Runners on Youtube to do it.

If someone could kind of give me a general direction, that would be helpful. Will I need to remove skid plates, what tools I might need though it sounds like it is mostly just some elbow grease and grit to get the part off of the transmission housing.

I did find this video and it appears he is working under the vehicle since light is coming from above in the engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeUNtUkLBwM

Thanks in advance.

It's on the passenger side of the transmission case. Just above the frame rail and almost right next to one of the 02 sensors and the lower trans cooler line boss. Has a wire connector going into it, big nut in middle, smaller bolt on the edge.

PB Blaster and a code clear fixed mine.... for a week. Then it was back to the same issue.

I don't recall whether I took skid plates off or not, I'm guessing I probably did. Look at my one picture above with the trans cooler lines, the 02 sensor, and the top of the trans pan. That should tell you exactly where you are looking at.

You will notice I already unclipped the wire connector whe. I took that pic. Normally it's plugged into the black receptacle on the upper left of the sensor.

 

[03_4x4Runner]

The car care nut talks about this sensor at around 8:20 in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JteXnrxPQJo&t=136s&ab_channel=TheCarCareNut