Observations after removing the hydrocarbon filter

[chayos00]

Get some MAF cleaner from your local auto parts store. It is really easy...just don't directly touch the wires. They are protected by a plastic housing so it isn't too big a deal...just be aware of it.QUOTE]

Thanks. I would assume that you disconnect the MAF sensor and remove it from the throttle body before cleaning? Also, what is the best method for cleaning, Q-tips? What should I be avoiding and what should I be cleaning on the sensor? Sorry for the bombardment of questions, but I have yet to mess around with a MAF yet.

Shuly just told you how to clean it! You even quoted it! I swear no one ever fully reads what people post, not just on here but on forums across the net.

Just leave the MAF where its at and do as shuly says.

 

[shuly]

Thanks. I would assume that you disconnect the MAF sensor and remove it from the throttle body before cleaning? Also, what is the best method for cleaning, Q-tips? What should I be avoiding and what should I be cleaning on the sensor? Sorry for the bombardment of questions, but I have yet to mess around with a MAF yet.

DO NOT TOUCH THE SENSOR WIRES WITH ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DO NOT USE A Q-TIP!!! If you break them you will be buying a new sensor. Go out and purchase a can of MAF cleaner. All you do is spray it down really well. It is easy once you remove the screws...pull it up and you will see where to spray the cleaner.

 

[martini]

Here's a video of how to clean the MAF, it's really easy: How-to Clean Mass Air Flow Sensor on Vimeo

 

[Trem720]

Thanks for the help. Will reset the 20A EFI and 10A ETCS fuses to "re-teach" the ecu. Stopped by a toyota service dept. today. Spoke with a tech and he said that if my MAF was dirty, I should have a check engine light on, which isn't the case. Could have been ****ty gas also, just a thought.

 

[shuly]

Thanks for the help. Will reset the 20A EFI and 10A ETCS fuses to "re-teach" the ecu. Stopped by a toyota service dept. today. Spoke with a tech and he said that if my MAF was dirty, I should have a check engine light on, which isn't the case. Could have been ****ty gas also, just a thought.

Dirt accumulates over time. Only when the sensor fails or is too crudded up then the CEL will turn on. It is a good practice to clean the sensor every 15k or so. It takes only a few minutes to do. However, if you plan on having the dealer service your vehicle then I wouldn't bother and tell them to clean it and let them charge you the dealer cost vs the 3 bucks for the can of cleaner.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Every 5k is far more often than really needed unless you've got ineffective air filtration. Cleaned mine at 36k and it only had light traces of dirt. Might check it every 15k to start and adjust from there.

 

[shuly]

Every 5k is far more often than really needed unless you've got ineffective air filtration. Cleaned mine at 36k and it only had light traces of dirt. Might check it every 15k to start and adjust from there.

Yup...15k is what I should have said.

 

[Bright_Light7]

Here's a video of how to clean the MAF, it's really easy: How-to Clean Mass Air Flow Sensor on Vimeo

Thanks for the video. I'll have to do that soon.

I'll do the HCF delete either tomorrow or Friday.

Just found the forums after buying an 03' Sport Edition few days ago. Ordered a GREEN filter and needa find floor mats for it now. Glad to see everyone on this board so far is pretty knowledgeable. Also good seeing a few members in neighboring towns lol.

 

[jdkilroy]

So... to get back to the original thread, I removed the HCF from my intake a while back and so far have not noticed any significant change in anything but that's fine.

What I don't understand, are the comments about a "sulfer smell" being worse or better etc. This filter has nothing to do with post combustion gases (where any sulfer smell might come from). It is simply designed to absorb the the unburned aromatic hydrocarbons that remain in the intake manifold after shutting the vehicle down.

To the best of my understanding, there are no "sulfer smells" assoc with the air intake (or pre-combustion) components of the engine at all.

Anyone else puzzled by this talk of "sulfer smells?"

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Agree that anything sulphur won't be coming from the intake.

 

[NJshadow93]

I removed my HCF a few weeks ago. MPGs went up by a solid 1.0 mpg if not more.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

I took one lug nut off of each wheel and my MPG shot up 2 MPG!

Seriously, the HCF is having zero effect on your MPG.

 

[NJshadow93]

I took one lug nut off of each wheel and my MPG shot up 2 MPG!

Seriously, the HCF is having zero effect on your MPG.

Translation: "I haven't removed mine."

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Translation: "I haven't removed mine."

My I kindly suggest you consult a different translator? Yours is not working correctly.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/40340-observations-after-removing-hydrocarbon-filter-5.html#post675810

I suspect this conclusion is the most correct. The throttle is what (by design) governs restriction of air to gasoline engines. Until you get to the point that the throttle is no longer the bottleneck (maybe as low as 30% throttle at low RPMs where the engine can't digest much air) everything else on the induction system doesn't come in to play. We have modern fueling systems that can maintain a given air/fuel ratio under all conditions to thank for this. It's only when you need more power than the engine can provide at a given RPM and airflow which either results in the ECU enriching the mixture (many engines drop the air/fuel ratio from the standard ~14.7:1 to something in the ~13:1 or even richer at high loads for best power and reduced knock at the expense of fuel efficiency) or shifting the transmission and increasing the RPM, that a flow restriction such as the filter negatively affects MPG.

I may pull this filter tomorrow just to see what I get on longer trips to see what real world results I see.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/40340-observations-after-removing-hydrocarbon-filter-5.html#post684502

After doing this I can't notice any difference in power and I have yet to see any change in fuel economy even closely tracking it via my ScanGaugeII on the same highway at the same speeds under the same conditions.

 

[NJshadow93]

My I kindly suggest you consult a different translator? Yours is not working correctly.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/40340-observations-after-removing-hydrocarbon-filter-5.html#post675810




http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/40340-observations-after-removing-hydrocarbon-filter-5.html#post684502

Damn, guess I gotta update the translation software . I'm surprised you haven't seen it improve even a little. My computer never goes below 18.3 now, where as before it used to hover in the 16-17 range, now its mid 18-19. And I'm getting roughly 15-20 more miles a tank now too. Are you still using the Toyota filter? I have K&N drop in if that says anything.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Damn, guess I gotta update the translation software . I'm surprised you haven't seen it improve even a little. My computer never goes below 18.3 now, where as before it used to hover in the 16-17 range, now its mid 18-19. And I'm getting roughly 15-20 more miles a tank now too. Are you still using the Toyota filter? I have K&N drop in if that says anything.

I'm pretty meticulous about tracking MPG to the point that I record what the onboard computer reads (Toyota = liar liar pants on fire! It seems to read 10% better than reality EVERY tank) what my ScanGaugeII reads and what the pump reads on every fill. I'm also an experienced hypermiler in that I can perform pretty much every one of the techniques that can be done safely (this is how I am able to get 37+ MPG out of my 242 HP modified '08 Civic Si sedan) so I know how to be consistent in my driving and know what different factors affect MPG.

What I've found is generally filters don't have any affect on MPG unless they get seriously plugged up. Now they *can* have an effect on peak HP but even that is not significant for comparison in our application. I run a Purolator air filter which looks a lot like the OEM. I ran K&N's on two previous Hondas (one drop in and one on a cold air intake) and when I sold the '00 Accord to my brother with 100k mi on it I did a used oil analysis on it and to my surprise silicon (usually from dirt getting past the filter) was very low so the oiled K&N was doing a good job. What I might begin to worry a little about is whether you drive in dusty conditions, especially off-road and especially if you follow someone else pretty closely and are sucking up their trail dust. I just don't know if the K&N will do as effective job as keeping dirt out in very dirty conditions and without seeing the oil analyses to back up whether the K&N filters large amounts of dirt as effectively as the OEM filter I'd stick with a slightly more restrictive filter for the peace of mind if you do drive in dusty conditions.

Just things to ponder. I don't have any plans on putting the HCF back. It rides in one of the cargo area bins right now. Not sure if I could put it back even if I wanted to.

 

[Carl_G]

I agree about the dust and have experienced that. If you ever want to put the HCF back in like I did: if you didn't damage it you can put it back in place and melt the "rivet" areas with a soldering iron.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

I agree about the dust and have experienced that. If you ever want to put the HCF back in like I did: if you didn't damage it you can put it back in place and melt the "rivet" areas with a soldering iron.

Carl,

What was the reason you put the HCF back in? Emissions control inspection?

 

[03_4x4Runner]

Carl was probably like me in that it made no difference at all in power or mpg. May as well help the enviroment what ever little bit that may be and keep the 4runner leegal.

 

[Carl_G]

That's correct it made absolutely no difference and i like the fact that it's back to stock.