Octanejunkie's 4runner Journal - 2WD

291565 miles

Replaced driver side axle with junkyard spare axle I snagged at 40% off last month. That should keep the seal from leaking until I replace the wheel bearings. Cleaning up the wheel and brake shoes/drum was the most time consuming part of it.

Need to top off gear oil

Waxed the hood after hitting it with rubbing compound. Paint on the hood is pretty badly oxidized...

Topped off crankcase oil. Next oil change in 8.5K miles

Pics to follow

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292312

AC started smelling musty so I decided to clean it from the evap core. Bought a can of Klima-Cleaner Air Conditioner Cleaner and following the instructions removed my blower motor/fan to spray into evap core.

Removing the blower motor housing was really straight forward.
I didn't take pics but here are the steps:
1. remove the plastic floor trim by passenger door, 4 phillips screws
2. remove the plastic passenger kick panel trim, pull towards rear of vehicle
3. remove blower motor, 3 torx 25 screws
4. unclip power cable from the motor​

There wasn't too much leaf debris in the cage fan, but the fan blades were dirty af, so much crud came out I decides to remove the cage from the motor to really clean it. This was not super easy, but not hard either.
Again no pics but here are the steps:
1. be careful, the cage fan may be brittle; it's 20 years old
2. remove the spring clip with pliers
3. there is a plastic locking tab opposite the flat of the motor shaft, gently pry it away with something thin a sharp. I used the blade of a micro screwdriver
4. OPTIONAL apply some penetrating oil to motor shaft and let it wick down between the plastic and the metal
5. PROBABLY NOT OPTIONAL use a heat gun on low or a hair dryer to warm up the plastic round the motor shaft
6. GENTLY, pry the fan cage off the shaft making sure to keep the locking tab back until it clears the groove in the motor shaft​

Once the cage fan was off, I washed it in the sink and scrubbed the blades with an old paintbrush to remove debris. So much fine dust came of the fan it stained the sink. I hung the fan to dry and cleaned the dirt and dust off the motor and gently blew it clean with air. Be careful not to blow the dirt INTO the motor armature.

Then I went back to the car and applied the Kilma per the instructions on the can.
The Kilma comes with two caps, a red on with a short nozzle and a white one with a long tube attached. I used both, but I added a coffee stirrer straw to the red cap to reach the core from the blower motor housing opening more easily.

If you reach into the blower motor housing with the blower motor and fan removed you can feel the core about 2-3" in from the opening. I made sure to poke the straw applicator I made right up against the core in several spots while spraying being careful not to damage the core fins. The foam will back out into the housing before melting. Don't over spray, rather wait for the foam to melt, then spray more. Spray about half the can into the core from the blower motor side.

NB - put a double or triple-folded towel on the floor of the car to catch any foam or liquid cleaner that may drip into the car, it will be dirty and can stain your carpet.

I then removed the red cap from the Kilma and installed the white cap. Here is where my extended AC drain mod comes in handy.

I snaked the white tube that came with the Kilma up my AC drain hose, right up to the factory aluminum drain fitting. There is no need to push the spray hose into the aluminum fitting, it won't make the turn easily and the AC core is literally right behind it, getting the tube up to it is enough. I then filled the core housing, from the back side with the second half of the can and waited the 20 minutes per the instructions on the cam, using this time to start reassembling the blower, etc.

This is where the towel on the floor of the car comes in handy. I took paper towels and soaked up the melted foam cleaner from the inside of the blower motor housing, not by the core but where the screws go in to hold the motor to the housing. I used the melted, liquid cleaner and paper towels to wipe wipe the dust of the inside of the housing where the fan blades fling it, and any dirty cleaner that leaked out hit the towel rather than the carpet.

When everything looked good, I reinstalled the blower motor/cage fan assembly, connected the power and started the car to run the AC per the Kilma instructions.
I put a drip tray under my AC drain hose under the car and opened the windows, running the car with the AC on for about 15 minutes while standing outside to avoid the strong chemical smell of the Kilma. Running the AC for a while is required to evaporate all the excess cleaner out of the evaporator core, housing, etc.

Once the chemical smell was mostly gone I shut down the car and emptied the drip tray. The liquid in it wasn't super dirty, it was kinda grey in color, probably because I cleaned a lot of the crud off the fan blades before spraying the cleaner, but I've seen videos of black liquid draining out, which you don’t want on your garage floor or driveway or anything else you care about or you'll be doing more cleaning.

Well, that's it. That's the post.

I didn't take pics as I worked because my hands were dirty and the phone was upstairs but I'm sure there are a ton of pics on the internet or elsewhere on the forum.

All tolled, not including the Extended AC Drain mod (done about a year ago) it took me about an hour or so, probably more, and hopefully will be worth it, meaning the moldy smell doesn't come back in a few weeks.
 
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the moldy smell doesn't come back in a few weeks.
Turn your AC off a few minutes before you get to your destination... and it will never come back. Basically, you need to dry it before stopping the car for long periods of time. It will, however, get dirty again. :thumb:

-Charlie
 
Turn your AC off a few minutes before you get to your destination... and it will never come back. Basically, you need to dry it before stopping the car for long periods of time. It will, however, get dirty again. :thumb:

-Charlie

Yessir, I do that. AC off, fan on, let it blow for a few mins, shut er down.
Only got moldy smelling this year.
 
300,000
Pulled over on the way up to our winter camp site to snap this pic.

a7acdadeebb73774a7e2b7438ef25111.jpg


Planned maintenance at 300K:
-oil and filter change
-oil filter relocation
-timing belt and all associated chingaderas
-LBJs

Good thing I got a company car last week, the T4R is no longer my daily

Also, need to clean my MAF sensor and replace the air filter element.
 
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Glad to hear you're still rolling strong in your rig man. 300k wow.

Just curious though... what campsite/where?

Post some pics!
 
303,751K

Replace battery and ultimately the starter after intermittent but worsening troubles. Bad starter sapped the battery until the starter finally gave up the ghost.
Here's the post on the starter issue.

Long story short, gasket on the starter failed, starter looks like it corroded from the inside out, speeding wear on the contacts until the starter itself failed to reliably start.
Had I been driving the 4runner daily the issue would have probably played itself out differently, but it is what it is.

I ended up replacing the starter with an Amazon aftermarket but will look for a factory unit to rebuild and keep on the shelf.

Next projects carry over:
-oil filter relocation
-oil and filter change
-LBJs
-timing belt (and all the fixins)

Tough to justify all that work/time when I actually hardly drive the 4runner anymore, but I wanna keep her running
 
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Oil filter relocation....oh heck yes. Never done it, but every oil change I can smell the brain cells rubbing together- or maybe that's just all the drippy oil.
 
Oil filter relocation....oh heck yes. Never done it, but every oil change I can smell the brain cells rubbing together- or maybe that's just all the drippy oil.
Fumoto valve with a small hose on it to get below the skid plate and a form-a-funnel under the oil filter keeps it (mostly) clean:

gzLDcAjh.jpg


Though I am still down with the oil-filter relocation cause!

-Charlie
 
Fumoto valve with a small hose on it to get below the skid plate and a form-a-funnel under the oil filter keeps it (mostly) clean:

gzLDcAjh.jpg


Though I am still down with the oil-filter relocation cause!

-Charlie

My husband has a Fumoto on his 4Runner and really likes it.
Maybe I'll have to bite the bullet on one of those form-a-funnels at some point. Better than the veggie oil bottle with the butt cut off that I use now, surely.
 
My husband has a Fumoto on his 4Runner and really likes it.

Maybe I'll have to bite the bullet on one of those form-a-funnels at some point. Better than the veggie oil bottle with the butt cut off that I use now, surely.
I, too, have a fumoto valve. Man those oil changes are easy. The filter relo will only help.

Stay tuned, kids

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The only issue with the filler relocation is the quality of the parts. My 2009 Tocuma came with the oil filter relocation from the dealer. I haven't had an issue with it.

However I have heard nightmare stories from people putting them on and failing. So I am sure some folks realize this can be an issue. I have no idea who mfg the one on my Tocuma but it would be a great one for the folks wanting to add one on a 3rd gen. :)

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The only issue with the filler relocation is the quality of the parts. My 2009 Tocuma came with the oil filter relocation from the dealer. I haven't had an issue with it.

However I have heard nightmare stories from people putting them on and failing. So I am sure some folks realize this can be an issue. I have no idea who mfg the one on my Tocuma but it would be a great one for the folks wanting to add one on a 3rd gen. :)

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Pics of your relo kit installed?

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The only issue with the filler relocation is the quality of the parts.
Very true. I spent nearly $200 in parts to do the one on my Camry (needed due to motor swap). Quality billet take-off plate, large AN fittings (-10 or -12AN), aeroquip push-lock hose, etc.

Even then, the hoses started to weep a bit after 10 years, and I'm in the middle of rebuilding that relocation (new hoses, changed routing a bit).

-Charlie
 
I would also seal with a quality anaerobic npt thread sealant for hydraulic lines. (Permatex 262?). also' AN fittings with graded lines would go a long way.
edit braided not grated.
 
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I would also seal with a quality anaerobic npt thread sealant for hydraulic lines. (Permatex 262?). also' AN fittings with graded lines would go a long way.
edit braided not grated.
Braided lines and AN fittings are overkill for a low pressure system like oil, but thread sealant is a must.

I may also RTV the block off plate to the block. Since it's not my DD anymore I have the luxury of letting the RTV fully cure.

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That jogged a memory of a bracket I saw in a thread somewhere years ago- something like Toyota #15609-75030. Number's probably wrong but the one I saw didn't fit a 4Runner far as I know.
 
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