Octanejunkie's T4R project - 99 SR5 4WD 5-speed

[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] just a heads up you can setup a Marlin dual tcase to have 2.26 gears instead of 4.7’s. That’s what I did originally in the video Sean and I made. But in the end I did switch over to 4.7’s. Not a huge noticeable difference but it is a tad bit slower. I actually have the input gear to switch the 2.26 gears to 23 spline if you end up going that route (adapts the gear drive tcase to 3rd gen transmission) lmk. I think the gear drives are 2.26 ratio, don’t quote me on that lol.

Edit: maybe they are 2.28’s like you stated above.
So this is interesting, if I could adapt a gear-driven case I would put 4.7 gears in it and run a single case... got more details?

I sent Advanced Adapters an email about mating an Atlas case to an R150F

All gear driven cases from Toyota pickups/early 4runners are 2.28:1, some call them 2.3:1
 
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So this is interesting, if I could adapt a gear-driven case I would put 4.7 gears in it and run a single case... got more details?

I sent Advanced Adapters an email about mating an Atlas case to an R150F

All gear driven cases from Toyota pickups/early 4runners are 2.28:1, some call them 2.3:1

If you just wanted to run a single 4.7 case you would have to use the entire gear driven tcase (3rd gen tcases are 1 piece vs gear driven tcases are 2 piece). Which in turn would mean your driveshaft would switch to passenger side and you’d have to SAS. I think inchworm and trail gear used to make a fully machined driver drop tcase that you could run 4.7’s in but those are long gone from what I understand. From what I remember the problem that I’ve seen with atlas’s are they are a bit larger than oem cases and you’ll most likely either need substantial body lift or floor board chopping. But yea with marlins setup you’re not forced to run 4.7’s you have the option to stick with the 2.28’s instead so you’d be 2.28/2.57. Similar to NWF but they are 2.57/2.57.
 
I sent Advanced Adapters an email about mating an Atlas case to an R150F

They have adapter kit for this already, no different then mating up to A340, the tcase mating surface (rear housings) are the same.
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Finally get to see more of your project!

Did you go with 4.3 or 5.0?

pretty sure i've shown a similar pic before...

3.8:1 to have the 10:34:1 low only because of the geography around here, would go with the 3.0:1 and have the 8.16:1 if i was around more go fast terrain like u.

if u go with an atlas i have some of the adapter and shift parts i never used to get the 3f310(a340E) to work. Advance didn't have the parts because of the "unusually" engine/trans i am using. In addition, I just did not like how the shifter kit cables needed to b run so i just made a system that fits r 3rd gens in a cleaner fashion.
 
Picked up a set of LC 16x8 rims this past weekend
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Thinking about a set of MTs
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Thunderer Trac Grip M/T Mud Tires. I'm looking at a set of 285/75R16 10Ply E Load

Might need spacers...

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Do you think spacers would be a good idea on these front ends with the lower ball joint issues? Granted they are nice looking right rims and tires. :)

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Do you think spacers would be a good idea on these front ends with the lower ball joint issues? Granted they are nice looking right rims and tires. :)

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I would only run spacers if I had fit issues, and if I did I would run the smallest one possible

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Thinking about a set of MTs
Thunderer Trac Grip M/T Mud Tires. I'm looking at a set of 285/75R16 10Ply E Load Might need spacers...

E load....? not available in C?

agree with [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] about spacers. When u start ****ing with scrub radius....
 
Can you just run a narrower tire? As always you do as you wish. I just don't want to see you loose a lower ball joint and jack up your rig over spacers is all. :-)

Anyone with lifts and non normal size tires really should verifying their lower ball joints on in spec every 5K to 10K especially if you off road.

Just my thoughts.. :-)
 
Can you just run a narrower tire? As always you do as you wish. I just don't want to see you loose a lower ball joint and jack up your rig over spacers is all. :-)



Anyone with lifts and non normal size tires really should verifying their lower ball joints on in spec every 5K to 10K especially if you off road.



Just my thoughts.. :-)

I'm running uniball LBJs and I check/ inspect them regularly, along with a suspension bolt check

These would just be snow and mud tires, I'm running skinny tall 33" ST MAXX for regular use/wheeling

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I'm running uniball LBJs and I check/ inspect them regularly, along with a suspension bolt check

These would just be snow and mud tires, I'm running skinny tall 33" ST MAXX for regular use/wheeling

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Oh. You spent the money for those.. ah. You should be fine then.. :)

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Might need spacers...
LC rims push the tires out already, you'll probably be just fine (wheel well clearance, on the other hand...). If you want an MT for snow, be careful - I've seen a few trucks on MT's in the mountains struggling while I was on regular all-seasons doing fine (in a Subaru, but...).

-Charlie
 
MTs in the snow are probably scary unless it's totally untouched snow. My BFG KMs we're not good in the rain, one time they saw ice I started to slide.

If you use spacers just get good ones (spidertrax) and install properly. I ran spacers for well over 100k miles with no issues.
 
Weekend update: 253,141

Rolled the big 253k on Saturday
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Installed 861 rear coils
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Install was pretty easy

I jacked the truck up as tall as my jack would go, threw jack stands under the frame and dropped the rear axle.

I disconnected the rear shocks (lower bolts) and removed 3 x 12mm bolts securing the rear brake line and union from the axle.

At that point I was able to pull the LC springs out, and install the new ones. The taller coil in the set was labelled B so that went on the driver side.

I don't have a rear sway bar, but if I did, I would have disconnected it from the axle (4bolts)

New fender to hub measurements (rear) fully loaded with gear:

Driver 25-1/4"
Passenger 25"

Pics below with same weight/load for comparison

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Installed Durobump secondaries up front
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Hi Lift jack mod
I read about a mod to increase efficiency of your jack by replacing the handle with a longer, heavier tube; so off to IMS I went

Picked up a 40" DOM tube, 1-5/16" OD x .120" wall. Cut 4" off so the handle would be flush with the jack on the truck and drilled a 1/4" hole through at the bottom for a cross pin. Used a 40mm M6 SS hex cap and locknut.

Cleaned, primered and painted with Rust-Oleum Hammered Black to match the jack.

[pic pending]

Vacuum hardline mod
I'm always worried about the little hard plastic straw that comes off the evap box to the firewall, so I replaced it with 5/32" hollow brass tubing, .014" wall, also from IMS.
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I was able to cut 6 of those little brass straws out of 1 length, so I'm set for life. Anyone wants one, LMK

EDIT: added before and after springs pics
 
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Are you running CVJ CVs for lifts? If so, which boot options did you go with and how do you like them? One of my boots had a tear that hasn't leaked yet but I need to address that relatively soon.

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Are you running CVJ CVs for lifts? If so, which boot options did you go with and how do you like them? One of my boots had a tear that hasn't leaked yet but I need to address that relatively soon.

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I'm running 1st gen manual Tacoma axles. They appear to have ORS silicone boots installed ala extended inner boot mod.

I have manual hubs so my CVs don't turn when my hubs are unlocked, which is most of the time.
 
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