Romeo1
Member
Good on ya for getting the proper crank tool. I Macgyvered a solution with a strap wrench to remove the crank bolt. After I broke it, I dally'd up a tow strap..... real cowboy shit.....lol. Next time I'll get the proper holding fixture for the crank. I knew better, my issue is I have a whole Mac tools box full of specially tools that don't get used very often anymore. I have a hard time justifying some of the specialized stuff now. But it's one of those things you just have to do it. Unless you want to build a toll. I wasted a bunch of time trying Mickey Mouse it.
Pulling the crank pulley ain't bad. Tim's video does an excellent job with the nuance of it. You'll have to play with a bit because it's not hard to bottom out and bend stuff on the puller.
Overall, it's really not a bad job at all actually. In Tim's video, he goes into depth talking about how to get the tensioner tightened back up. Honestly, that's the most challenging part. Playing with it, and finding the right combination of sockets and extensions that you have to access that hard to reach bolt from underneath. Just be patient, and don't cross thread anything on the tensioner. A good headlamp is key here.
I know many people will change the cam shaft seals with the valve covers and the end caps still in place. I had a horrible experience with mine as I broke a cap when I was prying out the seal on the driver head ham fisting it like a moron. I really lucked out as I found a used set of caps on eBay. The part I scratched wasn't on the seal surface so I locked out. I did a plastigauge, and holy shit it was in spec. Definitely dodged a bullet there. I now have the proper seal puller tool, but I'm not sure I'd even use it. That was a shitty experience for me.
If you really want to get rowdy, power flush the entire cooling, system forward and backwards up and down. Run an OEM thermostat. The OEM thermostats are vastly different than the aftermarket ones. I can't help but think there is a reason for that.
Overall, it's not a bad job. The radiator comes out with a few bolts on the shroud and radiator. Has its own hangars even. Super nicely engineered system actually. Probably the easiest radiator I've ever pulled.
Pulling the crank pulley ain't bad. Tim's video does an excellent job with the nuance of it. You'll have to play with a bit because it's not hard to bottom out and bend stuff on the puller.
Overall, it's really not a bad job at all actually. In Tim's video, he goes into depth talking about how to get the tensioner tightened back up. Honestly, that's the most challenging part. Playing with it, and finding the right combination of sockets and extensions that you have to access that hard to reach bolt from underneath. Just be patient, and don't cross thread anything on the tensioner. A good headlamp is key here.
I know many people will change the cam shaft seals with the valve covers and the end caps still in place. I had a horrible experience with mine as I broke a cap when I was prying out the seal on the driver head ham fisting it like a moron. I really lucked out as I found a used set of caps on eBay. The part I scratched wasn't on the seal surface so I locked out. I did a plastigauge, and holy shit it was in spec. Definitely dodged a bullet there. I now have the proper seal puller tool, but I'm not sure I'd even use it. That was a shitty experience for me.
If you really want to get rowdy, power flush the entire cooling, system forward and backwards up and down. Run an OEM thermostat. The OEM thermostats are vastly different than the aftermarket ones. I can't help but think there is a reason for that.
Overall, it's not a bad job. The radiator comes out with a few bolts on the shroud and radiator. Has its own hangars even. Super nicely engineered system actually. Probably the easiest radiator I've ever pulled.
(aircabin oem mfg kit)
