I don’t think anything is lacking. I merely like the idea of controlling the sub via an external gain knob. I also have heard that the dedicated sub will allow you to run a second 8” sub on the passenger. I wouldn’t mind adding a second sub for extra bass if that’s a possibility. Also, does the newer amp provide more watts to the system then the original?
OEM Audio + 5th Gen 4Runner audio system
- Thread starter headpaneer
- Start date
I don’t think anything is lacking. I merely like the idea of controlling the sub via an external gain knob. I also have heard that the dedicated sub will allow you to run a second 8” sub on the passenger. I wouldn’t mind adding a second sub for extra bass if that’s a possibility. Also, does the newer amp provide more watts to the system then the original?
No popping from either amp
jcage89
New member
Now sub makes a constant humming whether music playing or not. Oh well good while it lasted... looking forward to fun re-install of amp that will hopefully address the popping noise, hum and a few other things. Seems to be my lot lately.
Also wanted to ask for you guys with the OEA+ setup whether you have played with the fader. The EQ on mine seems to work OK-ish (not that I care to use it if the system is processed and tuned correctly) but I noticed yesterday when playing with the fade setting for the first time that my setup doesn't really fade like it should. I notice when moving the fade around the grid from section of car to another that all the speakers kind of mute down a bit but none stay prominent as with the OE setup when fading. Therefore there is no real imaging that goes with the fader using the OEA+ setup and it only sounds good when the fade is set dead pan center. I hope this is just an amp issue that will be remedied with a replacement amp because I would really not be jazzed if I have to re-run cables assuming the harness wasn't built properly.
Daniel is working on a "care package for me as well" so We'll see.
JC
Soccer13
New member
I played with the fader in my old 4runner with OEM Audio 450Q. Had no problems with it so I’m guessing it’s your amp.
Joelmaloney42
New member
To confirm, the dedicated sub does in fact have the capability of running a second sub on the passenger side. My wiring harness splits in the trunk so when they release the second amp option all i have to do is plug it and place it!
jcage89
New member
New amps from Daniel installed today=magic for sound quality... Next level... fades good now and way better imaging. Unfortunately no dice fixing the popping sound from the sub enclosure when the dedicated sub amp turns off. Tried to ground better but still getting it. Hopefully can isolate that but anyone waiting to put this in or whoever just ordered and hoping for best... Think you'll be very happy.
Also I can attest to the enhancement of the dedicated sub amp. Part of troubleshooting the popping I actually plugged the sub umbilical into the unused connector on the harness from the primary DSP amp which Daniel says is same production as what goes to those who don't buy the dedicated amp setup. The single amp does run the sub enclosure (and no popping in this setup by the way) but the headroom and sound field really does diminish in comparison to running the dedicated sub amp. Anyone deciding which way to go, my advice would be the two amp setup for sure.
JC
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Soccer13
New member
Where did you end up installing your gain control knob? I was thinking of tapping into the blank located here for easy access...how often do you find yourself adjusting the gain control knob? Thanks!
Attachments
jcage89
New member
I still have it just sitting loose in the glove. Did Daniel send you this YouTube link showing how they affixed it to the top side of the glove box?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23qzriK6mls&feature=youtu.be
Not sure I would do it this way vs just 3M doublestick or something but I haven't finalized it yet because I am still troubleshooting the hum and pop issue with my sub amp/enclosure and didn't want to tie anything else down until I am sure what needs doing with that.
As for how much I mess the gain, not much. I have played with it but found that 75%-ish works to my liking on most music so have just left it there. Because of the omnidirectional nature of low frequency and the way the setup is tuned, the bass just blends really well and doesn't stick out or anything so I found the gain knob is really a subtle adjustment when listening from the driver seat.
Because I can't see myself hardly ever adjusting it, I wouldn't put it out in plain sight like in that picture you attached, but that's just my preference.
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Hello group, I’ve been reading all the posts about this system and believe I’m going to get the Reference 500Q for my 2018 4Runner, would everyone please chime in about how hard the install was, please be honest. I’ve never ever done something like this install and am quite nervous about. I’ve been communicating with Daniel and he has been helpful, he informed me of a dealer “in my area” which is 2 1/2 hours away who can do the install, however they quoted 6 hours and $540, no way I’m going with that option. But when I hear 6 hours for the “professional” it kind of scares me to what I would be getting into. He’s doing more research to try and find an installer closer to me, so for now I’m in the waiting game. I appreciate any thoughts and truthfulness about the install you did on your 4Runner. Thanks in advance!
Xtremluck
New member
Install was EXTREMELY straight forward and easy. Just take your time and be careful. Best bang for your buck upgrade on a sound system I've ever come across. Really worth it
The instructions were excellent overall ... I was an early adopter and there were a few complications. That was over a year or more ago. Daniel was very helpful. Make sure you get a pack of trim tools ... Little plastic prybars of various sizes .. like $15 at AutoZone.
Just do it. Allow yourself a full day if necessary. You'll take a lot of stuff apart ... But it all goes back easy and I have no rattles well over a year later. Great system.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Soccer13
New member
Most shops around me say it’s going to take 6-8 hours to get it installed anywhere from $600-1k for install. Where are you located?
Definitely DIY and take your time. You can break it up into sections. Do a couple doors a night then do the amp and wiring. The most annoying part was getting the wiring through the firewall. Everything else was pretty easy. Definitely pick up some trim panel tools to make the job easier.
Good luck!
If you're in NJ I can install it for you
Thank you everyone for the replies, I spoke with Daniel the other day for some time with many many questions for him, he was more than happy to answer each one until I was satisfied.
I’ll say the amount of customer service I’ve already received through email and phone has been nothing but stellar. It looks like I’ll be ordering the Reference 500Q for my 3rd row 2018. Won’t say I’m not a little nervous, but I plan on doing it slow and in stages. Will probably tackle it over several days. I hate you have to unravel the stock electrical tape on front doors so wire will reach but I guess that’s the only way. After pricing some installs it seems pointless to pay someone else that kind of money for a plug and play system
I’ll say the amount of customer service I’ve already received through email and phone has been nothing but stellar. It looks like I’ll be ordering the Reference 500Q for my 3rd row 2018. Won’t say I’m not a little nervous, but I plan on doing it slow and in stages. Will probably tackle it over several days. I hate you have to unravel the stock electrical tape on front doors so wire will reach but I guess that’s the only way. After pricing some installs it seems pointless to pay someone else that kind of money for a plug and play system
Soccer13
New member
Did you ever figure out the pop with the sub when turned off? Got mine installed tonight and it sounds amazing except when I go to turn off the car the sub makes a pop sound...have the dedicated sub amp combo
jcage89
New member
I'm sorry to hear it buddy. I have the same exact setup as you and had what sounds like the same exact problem. I have good news and bad news. The good news is that mine is finally resolved, working super great and I know exactly what the problem was. The bad news is that for me the problem was faulty prep in the first harness they sent me and I ultimately had to completely reinstall a replacement harness to fix the problem. I hope yours is not the same and easier to resolve but that's what I had to do.
I believe there was a QC lapse in July/August when mine was ordered. They initially neglected to send my tweeters and the yellow power wires on the harness were bundled all the way up to the connecter ends vs. split off a few feet back where they exit the firewall. Next, I noticed that the illumination wasn't working on my head unit and discovered the initial harness had an inverting of the illumination wire on the 6 pin head unit connector so it wasn't passing through the current to light the deck. See dots on picture below showing thin illumination wire on left from factory plug and massively thick one on O+ connector on right not matching up to same seat.
I had to repair that by performing microsurgery on the connector and switching the pin. It was also evident that the massive thickness of the wire insulation on the initial O+ harness kept the pins from being able to fully seat get tightly connect into the connector plug (see pic below)…
This should have been hint and foreshadowed what would be the ultimate problem with the popping ang hum sound. Anyway all of these were clues that someone perhaps was not entirely on point in putting my install package together.
This said, got to give credit to Daniel that he owned the problems and was more than contrite and accommodating in working the process by promptly sending new everything until it was completely fixed. First we tried completely new amps but that did not fix the problem and then we bypassed the sub amp by plugging the sub umbilical into the unused sub output of the primary DSP amp which resulted in clean signal and no pop. This told us that the problem was not the amp (because had two sub amp tested) and nothing downstream of the amp (i.e. sub umbilical or enclosure) as it worked fine connected to primary DSP.
So finally we arrived at only thing left to do was get a new harness installed. I naturally was not thrilled by the need to uninstall and completely reinstall a new harness, but I have been through many of these type of mods over the years and accept that it comes with the territory and is part of the process. When the new harness arrived, I immediately noticed many indicators that it was much more soundly put together. FOr starters, check out this picture showing the relative size of the wire insulation on the initial harness (left) vs. the new harness (right)…
As I mentioned in the pictures above for the illumination wire issue, the massive thickness in the wires of the initial harness was keeping the pins from seating well and my reasonably well informed hypothesis rests in that the same issue was causing the hum and pop sound because the instant I hooked up the new harness it was completely gone.
I would also mention that before the new harness, I thought the only deficiency was the hum and pop noise, but there was more. As soon as the new harness was installed, the performance of the sub went through the roof. Before, I could crank the gain knob and not hear a material difference in bass presence between 40% and 100%. Now anything over 50% is overpowering so obviously performance of the bass enclosure was impeded by the old harness as well.
So having to go through the extra work was frustrating but Daniel stood behind his product and made it right in all regards. And in the end, the sound of the system is now PHENOMENAL and I derive so much enjoyment at listening to my tunes with this standard of quality. For both of these reasons, I had no problem overlooking the hiccup on the initial harness and recommending the solution to my buddy for install in his rig. Actually listening to mine helped too I suppose.
So best advice is have patience, take advantage of Daniel's commitment to make it right and best of luck for a much easier fix than I experienced.
Cheers
JC
Soccer13
New member
I have no handy skills in wiring at all...really hoping this is not my case, but if it is are since your in Seattle would you be willing or interested if I paid you X amount to do the wiring swap for me if Daniel sends the stuff? Thanks!
I'm sorry to hear it buddy. I have the same exact setup as you and had what sounds like the same exact problem. I have good news and bad news. The good news is that mine is finally resolved, working super great and I know exactly what the problem was. The bad news is that for me the problem was faulty prep in the first harness they sent me and I ultimately had to completely reinstall a replacement harness to fix the problem. I hope yours is not the same and easier to resolve but that's what I had to do.
I believe there was a QC lapse in July/August when mine was ordered. They initially neglected to send my tweeters and the yellow power wires on the harness were bundled all the way up to the connecter ends vs. split off a few feet back where they exit the firewall. Next, I noticed that the illumination wasn't working on my head unit and discovered the initial harness had an inverting of the illumination wire on the 6 pin head unit connector so it wasn't passing through the current to light the deck. See dots on picture below showing thin illumination wire on left from factory plug and massively thick one on O+ connector on right not matching up to same seat.
I had to repair that by performing microsurgery on the connector and switching the pin. It was also evident that the massive thickness of the wire insulation on the initial O+ harness kept the pins from being able to fully seat get tightly connect into the connector plug (see pic below)…
This should have been hint and foreshadowed what would be the ultimate problem with the popping ang hum sound. Anyway all of these were clues that someone perhaps was not entirely on point in putting my install package together.
This said, got to give credit to Daniel that he owned the problems and was more than contrite and accommodating in working the process by promptly sending new everything until it was completely fixed. First we tried completely new amps but that did not fix the problem and then we bypassed the sub amp by plugging the sub umbilical into the unused sub output of the primary DSP amp which resulted in clean signal and no pop. This told us that the problem was not the amp (because had two sub amp tested) and nothing downstream of the amp (i.e. sub umbilical or enclosure) as it worked fine connected to primary DSP.
So finally we arrived at only thing left to do was get a new harness installed. I naturally was not thrilled by the need to uninstall and completely reinstall a new harness, but I have been through many of these type of mods over the years and accept that it comes with the territory and is part of the process. When the new harness arrived, I immediately noticed many indicators that it was much more soundly put together. FOr starters, check out this picture showing the relative size of the wire insulation on the initial harness (left) vs. the new harness (right)…
As I mentioned in the pictures above for the illumination wire issue, the massive thickness in the wires of the initial harness was keeping the pins from seating well and my reasonably well informed hypothesis rests in that the same issue was causing the hum and pop sound because the instant I hooked up the new harness it was completely gone.
I would also mention that before the new harness, I thought the only deficiency was the hum and pop noise, but there was more. As soon as the new harness was installed, the performance of the sub went through the roof. Before, I could crank the gain knob and not hear a material difference in bass presence between 40% and 100%. Now anything over 50% is overpowering so obviously performance of the bass enclosure was impeded by the old harness as well.
So having to go through the extra work was frustrating but Daniel stood behind his product and made it right in all regards. And in the end, the sound of the system is now PHENOMENAL and I derive so much enjoyment at listening to my tunes with this standard of quality. For both of these reasons, I had no problem overlooking the hiccup on the initial harness and recommending the solution to my buddy for install in his rig. Actually listening to mine helped too I suppose.
So best advice is have patience, take advantage of Daniel's commitment to make it right and best of luck for a much easier fix than I experienced.
Cheers
JC
jcage89
New member
Hi,
Not really "wiring expertise" involved in my fix otherwise than illumination connector fix which was made moot by ultimate need to completely redo the harness. Rather it was more just PITA relative to redoing entire effort of original harness install which is more a matter of pulling panels and routing cables vs. wiring expertise.
Did you not install your own setup? If so and your problem is same as mine, then you would just be repeating what you already did which admittedly is not fun but doable. If not then I have a feeling Daniel would cover the cost of reinstallation at wherever you had it initially installed. I say this because he offered to pay for me to take it to a third party installer to get fixed as the problem was with their workmanship and not due to anything I did. I chose not to take him up on that offer because it just so happens I actually prefer doing it myself.
I would say first bridge needs crossing is working through troubleshooting with Daniel and then let me know if you still need advice and/or help we'll PM about it Okay?
Good Luck!
JC
