OEM Brakes are terriable

I have worked on cars for many years and that is the first I have ever heard that theory. I didn't know that rust had sponge like consistency. Rust I have seen flakes off and turns to dust. I would love to see the source of your information.


Not necessarily. The OEM shims tend to rust in place long before they flake off.

My source for information is a Master/Diag Toyota certified, ASE master/L1 certified, former Toyota FTS (Field Technical Specialist). Now he trains us techs at the Toyota training facility. Plus, I've seen it on multiple Toyotas that I have repaired myself here at our dealer. You would never suspect it because of the actual distance of the piston crushing the shims and pads, but it's significant enough to give wierd pedal feelings.


There isn't much that can give that sensation.

air or moisture in system
pad compostion/quality
(rarely) a bad master cyl


For the record, I will be doing the SS lines on my 4R eventually and I love my brake pedal as it is. My brakes blow my buddies Silverado out of the water, especially towing his bass boat.
 
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IMO the 4runner (sport) brakes are great for a SUV. I've had cars with Brembos and put on Stoptech ST40 brakes on my Audi so i know what good brakes feels like.

Try putting on new rotors/pads and bleed the system. I've done that and i'm not complaining about the stopping power for my truck.
 
Spongy brakes usually have NOTHING to do with the brake material. OEM pads are usually very good. I rarely use OEM pads because they are 2-3 times the cost of excellent aftermarket pads like Wagner. But the OEM pads should be fine. I'd be looking at something else besides the pads....like air in the brake line.
 
It helps your head think they feel less spongy. They do look cool, but modern brake hoses are made with advanced plastics that are as strong or stronger than steel.
haha, um what are you smoking?

even good quality rubber lines will swell some, and when you're dealing with 3-4' worth of total line, thats enough to affect the pedal travel. its usually only noticed under extreme, or heavy use tho.


SS lines would help some, but i doubt you have a soft pedal due to the lines.



Nobody mentioned this so I figured you should know....



Make sure the shims are there behind the brake pads, and make sure they're not rusty. The rust build up can actually make the shims expand, and although it's only fractions of a centimenter, that can make a spongy pedal due to the further travel of having to squish those rusty shims down.
this i have experienced. also thin friction material can have the same affect. when there is less BITE to the pads, it requires more force to get good braking.

even a fluid flush could help, if it hasnt been done for a while, or ever.

Spongy brakes usually have NOTHING to do with the brake material. OEM pads are usually very good. I rarely use OEM pads because they are 2-3 times the cost of excellent aftermarket pads like Wagner. But the OEM pads should be fine. I'd be looking at something else besides the pads....like air in the brake line.
agreed, i would look elsewhere first.

if its never been done, id start with a fluid flush.


also, doesnt that use a hydro-boost? the pedal FEEL is going to be a lot different from a vaccum booster.


just an FYI, i looked up the booster for that rig...retail is $2600....lets hope its not bad!
 
haha, um what are you smoking?

even good quality rubber lines will swell some, and when you're dealing with 3-4' worth of total line, thats enough to affect the pedal travel. its usually only noticed under extreme, or heavy use tho.


SS lines would help some, but i doubt you have a soft pedal due to the lines.



this i have experienced. also thin friction material can have the same affect. when there is less BITE to the pads, it requires more force to get good braking.

even a fluid flush could help, if it hasnt been done for a while, or ever.

agreed, i would look elsewhere first.

if its never been done, id start with a fluid flush.


also, doesnt that use a hydro-boost? the pedal FEEL is going to be a lot different from a vaccum booster.


just an FYI, i looked up the booster for that rig...retail is $2600....lets hope its not bad!

You make me laugh! Do you work for Midas?
 
Thanks for all the input.

Also, I understand that the brakes of an SUV will never be as effective as the brakes in a sports car.

I just miss the bite of my old brakes...I don't like the feeling of pushing down firmly to stop...unless in an emergency.

Also, I have noticed that several times I am stopped at a light and my car slowing advances..I am not sure if is this that I am not used to have to keep that much pressure on the brakes or what. My wife also noticed it...she said the car lurches if u don't keep yur foot down (hard) on the brakes.

I have heard mention of frozen calipers...do my symptoms sound like it could be related??
 
ChaosStarter - You want to tell me how brake material can make the brakes feel spungy!! I take it you've never done a brake job before.
 
ChaosStarter - You want to tell me how brake material can make the brakes feel spungy!! I take it you've never done a brake job before.


Nope. Never in my life. Certainly not on a Toyota.

*coughLexuscertifiedtoyotaexpertcertifiedASEmastercertifiedcough* :D

I'd post a picture of the Venza I'm doing a brake job on currently, but don't have access to Facebook to upload.


One of the biggest complaints I see from Toyota owners when they get after an aftermarket brake job are noises and pedal feel. Obviously you can get squeaks and squeals with cheapo pads from PepBoys or Meineke. But a lot of people complain that it feels like you need to apply too much pressure, or it takes too long to stop. They don't have that 'firmness' that the Toyota pads have, but they didn't want to pay the money for them. Maybe some aftermarket pads, even though the material is the same type of material as OEM, is not as strong or stiff as OEM. You can check everything. No air in the lines. No frozen calipers or slides. Sometimes this is caused by a possible improper bedding of the pads, or glazed rotors but from what I see, it's the material.

But after working in for dealers for years, and even an independent shop for a 2 year stint, I know what works and what doesn't. And don't get me wrong, I'm not saying there aren't good aftermarket pads out there, I'm just saying that when it comes to brakes, I'll buy Toyota OEM 100%.
 
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It is nice to pretend on the internet, isn't it?


Who is pretending? Want me to post pictures of my tool box? My shop? My certificates? I have no reason to lie to a bunch of guys on a Toyota forum.


By the way, was my 'source' credible enough for you?
 
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Just because someone is having a spungy brake feel after a brake job doesn't mean it was the pads. Could very easily be just air in the line. I'm not a mechanic....but I've done HUNDREDS of brake jobs on my own cars and friends and family members. I've seen spungy brakes before..but NONE of them due to the brake pad material. Air in the line is the most common culprit.
 
Just because someone is having a spungy brake feel after a brake job doesn't mean it was the pads. Could very easily be just air in the line. I'm not a mechanic....but I've done HUNDREDS of brake jobs on my own cars and friends and family members. I've seen spungy brakes before..but NONE of them due to the brake pad material. Air in the line is the most common culprit.



I'm not saying you're not right about possible air in the lines. I just gave other examples of what could cause it.

You may have done hundreds of brake jobs on various cars, but I've probably have done thousands over the last 13 years. Hell, I'm about to start my second of the day. I'm paid to fix and drive Toyota's. When you drive that many every day, you get a feel for the way every car should drive. Suddenly, you get a car with an aftermarket brake job, and you can feel the difference between that and OEM pads.

Believe me, don't believe me. It's fine. I'm just here to share my experiences, I'm not putting anyone down or claiming that they are or are not something.... Again, I have better things to do than to lie and troll a 4Runner forum.... although it is slow at work today. :bash:
 
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Who is pretending? Want me to post pictures of my tool box? My shop? My certificates? I have no reason to lie to a bunch of guys on a Toyota forum.


By the way, was my 'source' credible enough for you?

You want to know why no one mentioned that before your first post? Because it isn't true. I am sorry, but your contention that rust has spring like qualities that it will compress and expand and can cause a spongy pedal is total nonsense. You need to learn a little more about hydraulics before jumping in here and giving bad advice. Please go back to your fantasy world of being a super tech because it simply isn't true. No I don’t need a picture of someone’s box or certificates. My guess is you are probably a shop monkey and will just take a picture of a real tech’s box and claim it is yours.

And no, citing nonsense from another super tech lends no credibility to your story. An ASE master tech once told me to use a left handed crescent wrench. Does that mean there is such a thing? The problem I see with many of your web based auto techs who have never really turned a wrench is that you hear something and think you know what you are talking about because you heard it from someone special. For someone like Mike and I we see right through it, but for someone who is learning your bad advice can end up costing people money that may go out and replace parts that are really not needed.
 
You want to know why no one mentioned that before your first post? Because it isn't true. I am sorry, but your contention that rust has spring like qualities that it will compress and expand and can cause a spongy pedal is total nonsense. You need to learn a little more about hydraulics before jumping in here and giving bad advice. Please go back to your fantasy world of being a super tech because it simply isn't true. No I don’t need a picture of someone’s box or certificates. My guess is you are probably a shop monkey and will just take a picture of a real tech’s box and claim it is yours.

And no, citing nonsense from another super tech lends no credibility to your story. An ASE master tech once told me to use a left handed crescent wrench. Does that mean there is such a thing? The problem I see with many of your web based auto techs who have never really turned a wrench is that you hear something and think you know what you are talking about because you heard it from someone special. For someone like Mike and I we see right through it, but for someone who is learning your bad advice can end up costing people money that may go out and replace parts that are really not needed.


You seem like you don't being told you're wrong. Didn't like the word 'no' as a child?

Again, no reason to lie to you. Why would I just simply make up the fact that rusty shims, compared to new shims, can add a different feel to the brakes? To impress you? To impress any of you? I could care less. I'm 28 years old and have been paid to work on cars since I was 15. And I'm honest enough that when I don't know the answer to something, I'll be the first to admit it.

Rusty shims are physically wider and have to be crushed down compared to newer shims. And again, let me clairify. If you look at the OEM shims, they're layered (we're not talking aftmkt here). When the shims rust, the layers seperate. Hydraulics doesn't have anything to do with it. Think of 10 pieces of paper laid down on top of each other. They'll lay flush pressed together. Now you put a kink in one or two of those layers of paper, and you'll have gaps.

You know what rust also causes? On the last gen Camry, it causes the rear caliper bracket shims (not the ones on the back of the pad) to start tightening up around the pads and locks them up which eventually causes uneven pad wear.The rust builds up on the bracket in between the shims and the bracket itself. So badly in fact, that Toyota issued a TSB stating to replace the caliper brackets and shims. People don't always want to pay for that (like my current customer in the shop) and you have to try and use a wire wheel to clean off the rust.

I've been the new guy on forums before. I get it, I'm the noob on the forum, you've been here since 2003 so you must be a king of some sort. Get over yourself.

And, just for you (even though you wouldn't believe me cause you're the best and smartest ever), I'm going to post pictures later of the Tundra frame I did last month, and the Corolla 2ZR motor I had to build 2 weeks ago. I'll post a picture of my toolbox, not someone elses. I'm too proud of everything I've done and accomplished to let someone on a message board degrade me because he thinks he's the king of the world.
 
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ChaosStarter -So far all I've heard is that it does happen. As an engineer...I want to know HOW it happen. How could brake pads cause a spungy feel in the brake pedal. Maybe it's your definition of what spungy means. Spungy to ME means longer brake pedal travel to brake the vehicle. As I said.....explain to me HOW a brake pad can effect brake pedal travel (aka.... Spungy feel). Just saying that it does....is meaningless.
 
ChaosStarter -So far all I've heard is that it does happen. As an engineer...I want to know HOW it happen. How could brake pads cause a spungy feel in the brake pedal. Maybe it's your definition of what spungy means. Spungy to ME means longer brake pedal travel to brake the vehicle. As I said.....explain to me HOW a brake pad can effect brake pedal travel (aka.... Spungy feel). Just saying that it does....is meaningless.


Fair enough. Spongy to me, means soft or in your example, requiring more pressure to stop than you should have to, or more pedal travel. It seems our definitions are similar and I agree with yours.

What I've noticed on aftermarket pads is that they just don't have the same bite as OEM pads to, and instead of biting the rotor, they just tend to slide alongside of it. It will grab and stop the car, but you have apply more pressure to really get it to stop. My buddies Silverado is a great example. When we tow his bass boat, I feel like I have to go to the floor on his truck to get it to stop going down certain hills. My 4R, no issues, I love towing in my truck. He has Napa ultra-premium brakes, I have OEM, and his trailer has surge brakes. Obviously two different types of braking systems though on our trucks (his being a vacuum-booster and floating calipers vs our hydro-booster, fixed/floating calipers).


BTW, and this is only my opinion, but I HATE wagner pads. I dislike the raised edges on the back they use instead of shims. A few years ago, at my last shop, we averaged only about 20-25k miles on the wagners, but the Napa stuff would go 25-40k (provided you went mid-grade or higher). That was with well lubricated slides and shims, and good calipers/hoses. Also, the wagners never seemed to have the same thickness amount of pad material that others had, or especially OEM have. They always seemed thinner....
 
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