Official 3rd gen 4Runners on 35's Pic Thread

[snivilous]

- 15x9 with 4" Backspace TrailReady HDs
- No rubbing when turning/flexing
- 35x12.50R15 Mickey Thompson MTZ
- No lift
- Auto with 4.10s (sadly)

Firewall is cut all the way to the door hinge, front fenders and bumper were trimmed. When crawling I don't rub, if I jump or get one side to compress and I'm also turned then I'll rub the firewall. Rear has extended bump stops and I intend to trim the body as much as I can to gain more up travel eventually.

 

[Jpakmoto4x4]

- 15x9 with 4" Backspace TrailReady HDs
- No rubbing when turning/flexing
- 35x12.50R15 Mickey Thompson MTZ
- No lift
- Auto with 4.10s (sadly)

Firewall is cut all the way to the door hinge, front fenders and bumper were trimmed. When crawling I don't rub, if I jump or get one side to compress and I'm also turned then I'll rub the firewall. Rear has extended bump stops and I intend to trim the body as much as I can to gain more up travel eventually.

jeez ur front wheels are super flush. the wheels will have a big steering arc. u also running wheel spacers? i tubbed to the door hinge also and clearing by 1mm

 

[snivilous]

jeez ur front wheels are super flush. the wheels will have a big steering arc. u also running wheel spacers? i tubbed to the door hinge also and clearing by 1mm

Long travel + 1.25" spacer to clear the heim steering. I would easily rub on the door at full compression + full lock if I didn't hit the firewall first. For reference, at full compression I'm a hair from rubbing my fenders.

 

[andyv760]

16x8 4in backspace + 1.25in wheel spacers(solved UCA rubbing), Kevlar MTR 35s on 3in lift, NO body lift, tubbed, rubbing solved. Yukon 4.88s, R- elocker, F- arb air locker

was hell to clear it at full flex/full turn. almost impossible especially with MTRs, they run big. i relocated the abs ecu/electronics on floor panel and beat the firewall with a sledge hammer for hours then decided to cut and tub the lower section. now it only barelyyy rubs the frame by couple mm. the rear fenders were rolled with a bar, but didnt work out, looked like ass, so i cut the lip off and had to chop off a couple inches off toward the rear. i got impatient and went wheeling without completing the rear so i ended up chunking and slicing the brand new tires that rubbed on the sharp metal... thank god mtrs are tough.

bumpers/winch coming soon

How are the 4.88's with 35's? Did you trim the front fenders at all? Do you have extended rear bumpstops to prevent further compression?

Nice truck!

 

[Jpakmoto4x4]

How are the 4.88's with 35's? Did you trim the front fenders at all? Do you have extended rear bumpstops to prevent further compression?

Nice truck!

4.88s are perfect with 35s. i think its about 2100rpm @ 60mph. factory 410 gears are way too long for the bigger tires, struggles on the hwy going up hills or towing. yea front tires dont tuck so fenders are trimmed higher to clear the entire wheel. i didnt have to mess with the rear bumpstops. im running 890 w/spacers and pro comp shocks. it flexes out fine for now, no issues.

as you can see the fronts wont turn at all without modification, and the rear fender will cheese-grade the tire. this isnt even at max flex

 

[abadgti]

Question for you guys running stock gears. How bad does it suck on the highway? I'm supercharged so I'm sure it will help a little bit, but will I be stuck in the slow lane running 35s?

 

[snivilous]

Question for you guys running stock gears. How bad does it suck on the highway? I'm supercharged so I'm sure it will help a little bit, but will I be stuck in the slow lane running 35s?

I have an automatic with 4.10s, it's pretty awful. I literally never let it shift into 4th, otherwise I'll slow down instantly. On level ground in 3rd gear I can do 80, but that's locked in at 3000rpm. If there's any elevation gain more than going over a bridge, it bogs down to like 60, and if there's anything more than like a 4% grade (which where I live everything is more than that) then it's literally 2nd gear the whole time.

Short answer: It's better than I thought it would be, in the city it's not bad at all. But it's horrible, and involves lots of high rpm, to go on the highway. It's bearable until I can afford gears this summer.

 

[derpiful]

I have an automatic with 4.10s, it's pretty awful. I literally never let it shift into 4th, otherwise I'll slow down instantly. On level ground in 3rd gear I can do 80, but that's locked in at 3000rpm. If there's any elevation gain more than going over a bridge, it bogs down to like 60, and if there's anything more than like a 4% grade (which where I live everything is more than that) then it's literally 2nd gear the whole time.

Short answer: It's better than I thought it would be, in the city it's not bad at all. But it's horrible, and involves lots of high rpm, to go on the highway. It's bearable until I can afford gears this summer.

I'm really considering 35s, but the gears stop me everytime. I'm thinking I just need to make sure I can regear once I get tires.. I can't imagine going up I-70 on 4.10s!

 

[AssBurns]

This thread really grinds my gears. I really want to go to 35's but I'm just worried that I'll always have some rubbing that I won't be able to clear. For the guys with no BL. How much did you really have to clearance in the front? I know tubbing the firewall is a must but what about fenders and inner wheel well like where the battery tray is and the washer fluid reservoir. I'm on 33's and I slightly rub both

 

[4Running Daily]

This thread really grinds my gears. I really want to go to 35's but I'm just worried that I'll always have some rubbing that I won't be able to clear. For the guys with no BL. How much did you really have to clearance in the front? I know tubbing the firewall is a must but what about fenders and inner wheel well like where the battery tray is and the washer fluid reservoir. I'm on 33's and I slightly rub both

Had to move the washer fluid reservoir and I hit a lot of other things with a hammer. Cut about 2 inches off my fenders. A lot of stuff

 

[jstim]

- What wheels are you running? stock 5 stars
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? Yes
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315/75/16 Cooper STT Pro
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No All-Pro UCA
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? yes, 1.25 all around
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? No
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? auto, 4.30

Finally joined the club, no body lift. still have some work to do so it doesn't rub. i have extended bump stops for the rear and will trim the fender wells. in the front ill follow dirtcos method of cutting and welding some plate in there. right now its just hammered.






will update with better pictures.

I get a little more sad every time I see an ODL bumper. Why did they have to quit making them!?!?!? In jealous, you're rig looks great.

 

[AssBurns]

So you were able to eliminate all rubbing with no body lift? Besides the frame of course. I wheel mine pretty hard and the last thing I want is to be rubbing all over the place while I'm out. I know I can make anything fit but I know sometime that isn't always practical hahah

 

[4Running Daily]

So you were able to eliminate all rubbing with no body lift? Besides the frame of course. I wheel mine pretty hard and the last thing I want is to be rubbing all over the place while I'm out. I know I can make anything fit but I know sometime that isn't always practical hahah

You will always rub the inner fender unless you have a body lift or you have huge bumpstops

 

[prospectator]

Finally joined the club! I've got a 1/2" body lift, and still have to trim the rear. To eliminate the frame rub I limited the steering a little bit. It still steers plenty tight for me.

 

[BrandonF]

Finally joined the club! I've got a 1/2" body lift, and still have to trim the rear. To eliminate the frame rub I limited the steering a little bit. It still steers plenty tight for me.

That looks amazing! Where do you have to trim in the rear? The rear quarter panel itself or just the bottom corner/pinch seam. I had to roll the fender lip in to clear my 285's with quite a bit of offset. I'd definitely have to chop a solid 1" off to clear 315's.

 

[UnderFire]

My new setup.

- What wheels are you running? American Racing 23's 15x10
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? No
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 35x13.5R15 Toyo M/T
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? Haven't checked, probably.
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? No
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? 1"
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Manual, 4.88

Needs some more clearancing at the firewall, just barely touches the edges of the lugs at full lock, but I've got the fenders all trimmed up, and they're fitting decent, wanting some aftermarket UCA's to push the tires further forward.

 

[coltonbaxter31]

35x12.5r16 Mastercraft MxT's

 

[derpiful]

I suppose I can post in this thread now...!

- What wheels are you running? ProComp 7069 16x8 4" BS
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? Yes
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315/75/16 Cooper STT Pros
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? Nope, SPC LR UCAs
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? Nope
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? Nope
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, 4.10

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/115279794@N04/26603696174/in/dateposted-public/" title="148.newtires"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7082/26603696174_fc45e98d7c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="148.newtires"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

[xcmountain80]

Is there anyone running a Goodyear 35/12.5/17.......new tires will be coming in the next few months and I'm playing with the idea of a 35 or 315.


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[Dhowl513]

I love the look of the 35's, terrified for gas mileage though