Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

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I couldn't get this dipstick to come out, I tried twisting and pulling and nothing happens...
Pull harder. Don't break off the plastic piece though

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Pull harder. Don't break off the plastic piece though

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

If you open up all the doors and the gas cap it should release the pressure lol.

Mine gets stubborn every now and then, I have to hold the top of the tube while twisting and pulling it'll come out with enough persuasion.
 
I couldn't get this dipstick to come out, I tried twisting and pulling and nothing happens...

Was the motor hot or cold. If cold (which is what you would normally check the level at) try pulling the dipstick in and out when its hot and the tube has expanded.

You'll likely be able to pull it out and should be fine when cold once you break up the friction between the dipstick and tube.
 
I really appreciated this thread when I purchased my 4runner because like most of us on here, we like doing the work ourselves.
I have done every oil change on my truck besides 2 of them...and then there lies the problem. I live in an apartment where we are not allowed to work on our own vehicles. So, coordinating time to get home to the parents house or in-laws is sometimes hard to do. (Both live 2hrs+ away)
The previous oil change I had to schedule with the dealership. Then this time around, when changing the oil myself over christmas, I found out that the dealership screwed me. They either over-tightened the case or didn't put oil in the large O ring on the oil filter case (p/n 1565038020) Myself and father in law were under the truck trying to break this dang thing loose! We ended up breaking the cap to remove it. Of course the local dealerships do not stock this part, $120, so I ended up buying the Napa version for $40.
I already have a call in to the manager at the dealership I had change the oil last time but with holidays they said the response will be delayed; I had to leave a message. I will call again on Monday morning but I am curious to what others think. I want the dealership to make it right. What I want is a replaced OEM filter cap with an oil change. Do you think that is at least fair? Should I be asking for something more?
BTW, Happy New Year!
 
I would not have done what you did on the damaging of the filter housing cap. since the dealership did over torque this then I would have delayed the oil change to return to the dealership that did this. I would instruct them to loosen the cap to the proper spec. the spec max is 18 ft lbs. the torque has no effect on the sealing of the O ring. the sealing is done by the caps position over the O ring. the locking tab is used to ensure the cap does not move.

as we all know most all the time , the least experienced toyota techs do the oil changes perhaps not even properly trained to do automotive work.
 
condensed................... What I want is a replaced OEM filter cap with an oil change. Do you think that is at least fair? Should I be asking for something more?
BTW, Happy New Year!

Ya know brother, it's a he said, she said deal at this point.

You have no proof they screwed up and they have no proof you didn't screw up and just want them to buy you a new filter housing.

Do I believe what you have said? Yep. 100%. But I also understand that dealers get people all the time saying "You screwed this up, give me money" so it's a Catch-22.

You did learn a lesson and suggestion - There are lots of members and fellow 4R owners around you. Reach out and find one that has a garage. Hell, I would have no problem doing a tune and shine with a fellow 4R lover that is stuck at an apartment and needs a few hours of garage time.

My .03.
 
I'm doing my first oil change now and got to the part where I need to remove the filter housing plug. Apparently the last guy that worked on it at the dealer had his Wheaties and gave that sucker everything he had. I couldn't get the plug out by itself without spinning the entire housing.

I got the entire housing off and old filter out. Is there any harm in not bothering to remove the plug at this point and just replacing the filter then getting the whole thing back on and properly tightened? I took a picture of where the little metal marker was prior to removing it.

I'm guessing the only downside, besides the messy future removal, is not being able to replace that small o-ring. What do you guys think?

I'm hesitant to try muscling that plug off and damaging the plastic housing.

I don't even play with the little plug anymore , did it my first oil change and said that is a total mess makin waste of time , just unscrew filter canister and dump it in drain pan.
 
I would not have done what you did on the damaging of the filter housing cap. since the dealership did over torque this then I would have delayed the oil change to return to the dealership that did this. I would instruct them to loosen the cap to the proper spec. the spec max is 18 ft lbs. the torque has no effect on the sealing of the O ring. the sealing is done by the caps position over the O ring. the locking tab is used to ensure the cap does not move.

as we all know most all the time , the least experienced toyota techs do the oil changes perhaps not even properly trained to do automotive work.

Yeah, very true and I should have stopped when I noticed that it was not coming off but I was being stubborn and thought I could remove it. When I got the point that I could not get it off, I was about to fill up the truck again with oil and return the dealer for them to fix. Thats when I noticed that there was oil leaking out if the filter case and couldn't drive safely.

Ya know brother, it's a he said, she said deal at this point.

You have no proof they screwed up and they have no proof you didn't screw up and just want them to buy you a new filter housing.

Do I believe what you have said? Yep. 100%. But I also understand that dealers get people all the time saying "You screwed this up, give me money" so it's a Catch-22.

You did learn a lesson and suggestion - There are lots of members and fellow 4R owners around you. Reach out and find one that has a garage. Hell, I would have no problem doing a tune and shine with a fellow 4R lover that is stuck at an apartment and needs a few hours of garage time.

My .03.

True again, no real proof besides my word against theirs.

I did talk with their service manager and explained the situation and actually to my surprise they are going to provide me the OEM filter case at no cost. I was expecting him to tell me "sorry, but since you changed it on your own, we cannot validate it". I sent them a picture of the filter housing as proof and they said the replacement should be here by Monday. He also mentioned that the oil filter cases do break often and it is not uncommon to them. Not something I wanted to hear about but it sounds like I am the only on the forum that has come across this issue. Anyone else hear about it experienced it?
 
having just changed the oil on my 2016 the first oil change that filter cap came off real easy . with many complaining that this is on too tight , hard to remove , I got the super filter cap socket that is extremely heavy duty . that cap came off with little force perhaps 10ft lbs is my guess. so what the dealership lube jockeys do is crank it up well beyond the factory spec. the O ring does the sealing not the threads on the cap O ring , only requires the proper position on the housing ..

the dealership will not certify any work you or another non toyota shop did on the vehicle. this has no effect on warranty.

I must say when I did my oil change on this toyota it took 45 min for all that oil to drain out NO way a dealership would do that , so you will still have a good amount of sludge and oil left in the engine.

then the pan bolts missing or cross threaded . that is why I rather do this myself .. if you have them do all this the first 2 yrs then you will have to deal with the effects of the way the dealership did work on it.

like they say when its free you usually get screwed .
my family member has oil changes and servicing done at dealership toyota . the guy spilled oil all over the intake manifold and did not fill it up . was down 1/2-3/4 qt. also the fluids where not topped off . they charge $120 for this work. brought vehicle back manager saw the mess. he gave a free oil change coupon on the next visit.

If you have the ability and plan on keeping this a long time best you do most of the maintenance ..
 
having just changed the oil on my 2016 the first oil change that filter cap came off real easy . with many complaining that this is on too tight , hard to remove , I got the super filter cap socket that is extremely heavy duty . that cap came off with little force perhaps 10ft lbs is my guess. so what the dealership lube jockeys do is crank it up well beyond the factory spec. the O ring does the sealing not the threads on the cap O ring , only requires the proper position on the housing ..

the dealership will not certify any work you or another non toyota shop did on the vehicle. this has no effect on warranty.

I must say when I did my oil change on this toyota it took 45 min for all that oil to drain out NO way a dealership would do that , so you will still have a good amount of sludge and oil left in the engine.

then the pan bolts missing or cross threaded . that is why I rather do this myself .. if you have them do all this the first 2 yrs then you will have to deal with the effects of the way the dealership did work on it.

like they say when its free you usually get screwed .
my family member has oil changes and servicing done at dealership toyota . the guy spilled oil all over the intake manifold and did not fill it up . was down 1/2-3/4 qt. also the fluids where not topped off . they charge $120 for this work. brought vehicle back manager saw the mess. he gave a free oil change coupon on the next visit.

If you have the ability and plan on keeping this a long time best you do most of the maintenance ..

Yep, keeping this bad boy. And that is why I do most of the maintenance myself including oil changes.
 
I do as much of my own mechanic work as I can. I am not very good at diagnosing some things...but if it needs replaced or repaired I'm good to go.

HOLY MOTHER OF GOD!!! WHAT A PAIN IN THE DINK...JUST TO CHANGE THE OIL??!!! This saved me a lot of time and has some great info in it. Exactly why I belong to this forum. Sure I could have figured it out but this was a huge help.

I had to look it up because I was getting ready to order the filter and it showed cartridge style...WTH???? Looked here and it is cartridge style...not my favorite...but it is what it is.

Now the kicker....I bought this rig used (2014) and it was serviced at a dealer last. I have all the paperwork...and the dealership put a service interval sticker of 3000 miles! Sorry but this is a major reason I do all my own service. It has never been an issue on any warranty work, but I save all of my receipts and attach all the UPC labels to the filter box side with the UPC. Write the details on the inside portion of the box throw it in the appropriate car file.

Ive had a few drive train warranty issues over the years....Dealer "well you didnt have XYZ done at a certified XYZ". Me..."Its not required to be it just has to be done, and I have all my records right in this file". They have this funny look when I lay it on the counter...."well it looks like it was done and we will get right on it".
 
Almost 600 posts for changing oil??? I think I will wait for the Gen 6 to see if Toyota fixes this design.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the design of the oil filter housing, oil filter housing placement or the process to change the oil on a 5th gen.

If you are smarter than a bag of sand it is easy to do correctly in one hour.

The problems come in when people who aren't qualified to use toilet paper attempt something that requires a modicum of skill and screw things up and then scream "BAD DESIGN!!!".
 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the design of the oil filter housing, oil filter housing placement or the process to change the oil on a 5th gen.

If you are smarter than a bag of sand it is easy to do correctly in one hour.

The problems come in when people who aren't qualified to use toilet paper attempt something that requires a modicum of skill and screw things up and then scream "BAD DESIGN!!!".
I've never done my own oil.

I.know I'm more than capable, but by the time everything is said and done, the value just isn't there.

If I had a lift I may reconsider, but to save 10-20 bucks, I'd rather just take it to my shop and let then deal with it.

Maybe I'm lucky but I've only had less headaches having a trusted shop dealing with my old oil.
 
Most of the vehicles Ive owned in my life the only reason I had to get under the vehicle was to pop the drain plug in and out. This is definitely a pain in the ass, I dont know how you could look at it any other way. I'll probobly still change my own oil but as a new 4runner owner I'm a little disappointed in the setup.
 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the design of the oil filter housing, oil filter housing placement or the process to change the oil on a 5th gen.

If you are smarter than a bag of sand it is easy to do correctly in one hour.

The problems come in when people who aren't qualified to use toilet paper attempt something that requires a modicum of skill and screw things up and then scream "BAD DESIGN!!!".

Nothing wrong? Well that figures coming from a guy still using TP. Get on the Bidet train my red ass friend!:D
 

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