Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

What I found better to get most of the old oil out is to push compressed air with clean rag to seal. Youll be surprise how much more oil comes out even after you let it drain for a while.
 
Thank You!

[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]

I just used this thread for the first (30k mile) oil change that i've performed myself for the this vehicle. I had been taking advantage of the Toyota Care Service up to this point and i was very grateful to find your thread filled with pictures, tool list, ect.

Thank you for taking the time to post this and contribute to the T4R forums once again!
 
Ramps? You are working too hard. Just slide under there and do it as it sets. It's a little close, but OK. A sheet of cardboard on the floor and it's easy to slide under. It catches the drips or spills too.


we are of a group of people here in the US of a very large size. some are beyond obese.... LOL

a person of normal weight ,can slide under with no problems .

then you have the beer belly issue..
 
[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]

I just used this thread for the first (30k mile) oil change that i've performed myself for the this vehicle. I had been taking advantage of the Toyota Care Service up to this point and i was very grateful to find your thread filled with pictures, tool list, ect.

Thank you for taking the time to post this and contribute to the T4R forums once again!

I agree, thanks to Antman!!!
 
So 10,000 is really the interval? I didn't see it in the book. I've only seen references to it here, with a lot of controversy.
 
Not sure if anyone needs filters, but I'm preparing to do my first 5000 mile oil change, and found this quite amazing deal. 10 filters for $16.20, shipped. It might be 5+ years of filters, but hard to pass up when Amazon has the same for $7 ea.:wow2: Bought a box today, so I can let you know if they are the real deal when (if) they show up.
Also, walmart has Mobil 1 0w20 oil on sale for $19.99 for a 5qt jug. They showed up the normal price in the store, had to show the girl at the register the site on my phone and she changed it. :trophy:

OIL FILTER 04152-YZZA5 | eBay


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...onomy-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-qt./17034374
 
Not sure if anyone needs filters, but I'm preparing to do my first 5000 mile oil change, and found this quite amazing deal. 10 filters for $16.20, shipped. It might be 5+ years of filters, but hard to pass up when Amazon has the same for $7 ea.:wow2: Bought a box today, so I can let you know if they are the real deal when (if) they show up.
Also, walmart has Mobil 1 0w20 oil on sale for $19.99 for a 5qt jug. They showed up the normal price in the store, had to show the girl at the register the site on my phone and she changed it. :trophy:

OIL FILTER 04152-YZZA5 | eBay


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...onomy-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-qt./17034374

That sounds like quite a score! I may have to take advantage of that Mobil 1 deal.

Wait - the price shows $29.75 when i click on that link.
 
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That sounds like quite a score! I may have to take advantage of that Mobil 1 deal.

Wait - the price shows $29.75 when i click on that link.

Really? Maybe it's a regional thing? This is what I see

Capture_zpslpqhatia.jpg~original
 
Oil Change Interval

Antman, thanks for the walk through! I assumed changing the oil would be about as straightforward as my 04 Highlander was, but I would have been in for a surprise.

If I'm reading the manual correctly for my 13 SR5 V6, oil and filter should be changed every 10,000 miles with 0W-20? I've used Mobil1 in my Highlander and Corolla, and Mobil1 suggests 12,000-15,000 miles or 1 year. A friend of mine likes to go a full year on Mobil1, but that sounds like it's pushing it. Is 10,000 miles a good rule of thumb for 0W-20 full synthetic and a high quality filter?
 
Question about reinstalling the filter.

So after I have replaced the element and the o rings for the filter, when I went to tighten it back on I set my torque wrench to 18 ft. Lb. The metal tab that is suppose to realign to its original position happened to be torqued over that mark about an inch further, little less. It felt snug and fine, is there anything I should be worried about? Thanks!
 
Question about reinstalling the filter.

So after I have replaced the element and the o rings for the filter, when I went to tighten it back on I set my torque wrench to 18 ft. Lb. The metal tab that is suppose to realign to its original position happened to be torqued over that mark about an inch further, little less. It felt snug and fine, is there anything I should be worried about? Thanks!
Just take it to the metal tab. Any further and you can crack the housing.
 
Just take it to the metal tab. Any further and you can crack the housing.

Thank you for the response. I tightened it to spec and left it that way. It was the trucks first oil change. Seems to me that 18 ft lb is to much considering the metal indicator tab went pass the original marking. But I can't imagine there would be any damage on the housing unless I decided to crank it another full turn which would be stupid. I'm just really picky about my things and was just asking if I'm gonna end up having any issues. I had the truck running for a minute or so and was looking and didn't notice any leaks before I put the skids back on.
 
Thank you for the response. I tightened it to spec and left it that way. It was the trucks first oil change. Seems to me that 18 ft lb is to much considering the metal indicator tab went pass the original marking. But I can't imagine there would be any damage on the housing unless I decided to crank it another full turn which would be stupid. I'm just really picky about my things and was just asking if I'm gonna end up having any issues. I had the truck running for a minute or so and was looking and didn't notice any leaks before I put the skids back on.
I'm sure you'll be fine. Remember, all torque wrenches have variance. All you needed is to be maybe 1-2lbs off and you'll be going past that metal tab. The tab is put there as to show when you have it tightened enough and so people without a torque wrench can still properly tighten the housing.

As I said before, you'll be just fine an inch or so past. And you did the right thing to watch it for a full minute or two and confirm you're leak free, skid up, and boogie.
 
I'm sure you'll be fine. Remember, all torque wrenches have variance. All you needed is to be maybe 1-2lbs off and you'll be going past that metal tab. The tab is put there as to show when you have it tightened enough and so people without a torque wrench can still properly tighten the housing.

As I said before, you'll be just fine an inch or so past. And you did the right thing to watch it for a full minute or two and confirm you're leak free, skid up, and boogie.

Ok cool! Next oil change, I'm not gonna bother with the torque wrench I'll just eyeball where the indicator is meant to be! Thank you!
 
Just to add a few torque specs for bolts / filter housing:

Filter Drain Plug - 10 ft-lb
Oil Filter Cap (plastic housing) - 18 ft-lb
Skid plate bolts (x4) - 21 ft-lb
Engine under Cover Seal (x2) - 21 ft-lb
Oil Pan Drain Plug - 30 ft-lb

Nice write-up Antman, it takes a lot of time to put all of that together in a how-to.


Just a note---my dealer uses a breaker bar on the oil filter housing making it almost impossible to get off. They use impact wrenches on the plate, cover and every other bolt. Needless to say, I don't go there any more.

Also, I couldn't get the plastic snap-in drain to work even using a hammer to tap on it and the filter wrench to unscrew the filter housing won't even go on. The dealer told me that have known of these problems for several years, but keep selling them.
He said they have a new "wrench" to unscrew the housing, but it often times breaks the housing tabs............SO WHY ARE YOU SELLING IT !!!????

I asked what the shop uses and he said they use a similar "socket" type wrench furnished by Toyota. I asked if he would ship me one (I'm 200 miles from them) and he said no, they are not sold to the public.................................!!!!!!

My dealer also could not tell me ANY of the torque specs, so thank you for those.

Then I found this:
https://www.motivxtools.com/pages/toyota-oil-filter-housing-and-wrench-guide
 
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Just a note---my dealer uses a breaker bar on the oil filter housing making it almost impossible to get off. They use impact wrenches on the plate, cover and every other bolt. Needless to say, I don't go there any more.

Also, I couldn't get the plastic snap-in drain to work even using a hammer to tap on it and the filter wrench to unscrew the filter housing won't even go on. The dealer told me that have known of these problems for several years, but keep selling them.
He said they have a new "wrench" to unscrew the housing, but it often times breaks the housing tabs............SO WHY ARE YOU SELLING IT !!!????

I asked what the shop uses and he said they use a similar "socket" type wrench furnished by Toyota. I asked if he would ship me one (I'm 200 miles from them) and he said no, they are not sold to the public.................................!!!!!!

My dealer also could not tell me ANY of the torque specs, so thank you for those.

Then I found this:
https://www.motivxtools.com/pages/toyota-oil-filter-housing-and-wrench-guide

I use the same filter wrench from Motiv. There's many different brands and they all pretty much do the same thing. As far as the filter drain, the tool just pushes into the filter housing by hand. You shouldn't be using a hammer. Just make sure to line it up with the hole and give it a good push.
 
Thanks Timman. You are right about putting in the drain and I've done it many times. For some reason, this new one just wouldn't play well.
I think I'll order some Motiv products.

(for some reason, it wouldn't let me respond directly to you)
 

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