Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

[jamoc]

Hey Antman!

I am having trouble accessing your personal thread. Every time I try and click it , screen turns white. Just thought I would let you know. Maybe its on my end?

 

[Antman]

I am having trouble accessing your personal thread. Every time I try and click it , screen turns white. Just thought I would let you know. Maybe its on my end?

Maybe you need to update your browser...

All good for me.:noidea:

 

[Heavy_GD]

It works here. :hello:

 

[RodRunner]

I'm doing my first oil change now and got to the part where I need to remove the filter housing plug. Apparently the last guy that worked on it at the dealer had his Wheaties and gave that sucker everything he had. I couldn't get the plug out by itself without spinning the entire housing.

I got the entire housing off and old filter out. Is there any harm in not bothering to remove the plug at this point and just replacing the filter then getting the whole thing back on and properly tightened? I took a picture of where the little metal marker was prior to removing it.

I'm guessing the only downside, besides the messy future removal, is not being able to replace that small o-ring. What do you guys think?

I'm hesitant to try muscling that plug off and damaging the plastic housing.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

....What do you guys think?

I'm hesitant to try muscling that plug off and damaging the plastic housing.

That's why I do all my own servicing. No excuse for that.

I would fix it now while you have it off. If he got it on that tight, you aren't going to screw anything by undoing what he did. Hopefully he didn't screw up the threads.

The reason I say fix it now is that it makes the oil changes a lot less messy.

You did heat up the motor good and thorough before you changed the oil right?

 

[RodRunner]

You did heat up the motor good and thorough before you changed the oil right?

Thanks for the quick reply!

I did, followed Antman's instructions. I'll head out and see if I can find a strap-wrench or something that I can put around the filter housing. With it being plastic I don't want to damage it trying to loosen the plug.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Thanks for the quick reply!

I did, followed Antman's instructions. I'll head out and see if I can find a strap-wrench or something that I can put around the filter housing. With it being plastic I don't want to damage it trying to loosen the plug.

They are surprisingly tough.

If you have an adjustable filter wrench that will fit around the canister housing (if you are like me you have a bunch of them from prior vehicles) I would put duct tape around the housing to protect it and then use the filter wrench to hold it while you remove drain bolt. It will come off if you do everything right.

This is the sort of wrench I am talking about:

https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/131517844246-0-1/s-l1000.jpg&f=1

 

[RodRunner]

Got it!!! Got a strap-wrench from ACE and while sweating bullets and cursing the dude who put it on last time, or God knows how long it has been like that and they just keep putting it back like that, I managed to get it off without damaging the plastic canister.

Thank you again for the quick response man, much appreciated!!!!

 

[catrains]

Got it!!! Got a strap-wrench from ACE and while sweating bullets and cursing the dude who put it on last time, or God knows how long it has been like that and they just keep putting it back like that, I managed to get it off without damaging the plastic canister.

Thank you again for the quick response man, much appreciated!!!!

many years ago I used only the strap wrench did not mess with the filter housing drain plug since I had a large drain pan. those housings then were made of metal.

good you got the drain plug out with out damaging the plastic housing.

my guess is the lube jockeys over torque all this stuff because they do not replace the O rings and gasket washers.

with the use of the strap wrench which I seldom use much now I, used to use 80 grit sand paper with the adhesive backing ,,, cut the sand paper in a strip placed on oil filter , then put strap wrench over the sand paper never had any slippage.. this is usually on the first OEM/dealership oil change.

I use sockets now , on all these items but it can happen when I get out that strap wrench.

 

[Antman]

That's why I do all my own servicing. No excuse for that.

I would fix it now while you have it off. If he got it on that tight, you aren't going to screw anything by undoing what he did. Hopefully he didn't screw up the threads.

The reason I say fix it now is that it makes the oil changes a lot less messy.

You did heat up the motor good and thorough before you changed the oil right?

many years ago I used only the strap wrench did not mess with the filter housing drain plug since I had a large drain pan. those housings then were made of metal.

good you got the drain plug out with out damaging the plastic housing.

my guess is the lube jockeys over torque all this stuff because they do not replace the O rings and gasket washers.

with the use of the strap wrench which I seldom use much now I, used to use 80 grit sand paper with the adhesive backing ,,, cut the sand paper in a strip placed on oil filter , then put strap wrench over the sand paper never had any slippage.. this is usually on the first OEM/dealership oil change.

I use sockets now , on all these items but it can happen when I get out that strap wrench.

If you look at the housing closely you will see that the drain plug doesn't thread into plastic. There is a threaded brass insert there instead.

The key to getting the plug off easily is to quickly tap the wrench to break it loose. Works every time...

 

[RodRunner]

This is the wrench I used...

Unfortunately the 'service monkey' damage didn't end there. They lost one of the skid bolts so instead it was much quicker to just use a 2" bolt, which is much longer, that must have been laying around and didn't even bother to use a washer. They also stripped the threads on one of the holes for a bolt that holds up the plastic piece in front of the skid plate. I'll have to re-tap it and use a different bolt. Finally, while rotating the tires I noticed that they've never bothered to use a rag behind the tool that snaps the plastic wheel caps out. The wheels are pitted in a bunch of spots. I realize this is nit but is it really that difficult :mad2:

On a positive note I got my Fumoto valve installed :thumb3:

Thanks Antman for the awesome write up!

 

[HerT4R]

Gently insert the bleeder drain valve that comes with the new filter, but don't press it up yet. Then take an empty 20oz coke bottle, put the neck over the edges of the drain valve device and push up. The oil drains into the bottle and you've actuated the valve. Once empty after about a minute, take your rag and remove the insert.

Hope this helps you in your next oil change.

^^^^^THIS

this was an awesome suggestion. Just changed my oil and utilized this technique. instead of a 20oz coke bottle i grabbed an empty glass franks hot sauce bottle, because lets face it, i put that shit on everything! And i set the bleeder piece on the mouth of the bottle, then shoved it up into the filter housing with EASE. man, you made changing my oil so much better. typically i would have got oil all over my arm and the skid plates and made a mess, and now, no mess.

:high5: :thanks:

:hippie:

 

[RodRunner]

In case anyone is missing or trying to replace bolts for the plastic cover or front skid plate like I was here are the part numbers:

Plastic cover bolt - 90109-06330
Skid bolt - 90080-11373

Parts department at my local dealer charged me $2 each.

 

[TheRoadNotTaken]

Does the truck need to be level when draining the oil? I want to use ramps to make it easier.

 

[Ohio Hawk]

Does the truck need to be level when draining the oil? I want to use ramps to make it easier.

I can only tell you my experience, which leads me to tell you it does not.
I used jack stands in the front on my 1st oil change. I figured I should lift the rear higher than the front to drain the rest of the residual oil. After messing around moving the jack stands to the back and then dropping the front lower, nothing came out. I wasted about 15 minutes doing that and had no result.
Therefore, I would say no based on my one time experience, no, but I would be curious to hear if others have had a different experience.

 

[catrains]

I can only tell you my experience, which leads me to tell you it does not.
I used jack stands in the front on my 1st oil change. I figured I should lift the rear higher than the front to drain the rest of the residual oil. After messing around moving the jack stands to the back and then dropping the front lower, nothing came out. I wasted about 15 minutes doing that and had no result.
Therefore, I would say no based on my one time experience, no, but I would be curious to hear if others have had a different experience.

I use 6 inch solid OAK wooden ramps . drive up on them and keep the vehicle level.

one vehicle I own I place a jack on the passenger side and on the ramps jack up that side slightly so the extra oil comes out. I do give it 45-60 min of drain time.engine hot never cold .. I also use heavy rubber gloves when I know some oil will hit my hands coming out.

level on these is proper.

 

[renau001]

Does the truck need to be level when draining the oil? I want to use ramps to make it easier.

I noticed a negligible difference in the amount of oil drained while on ramps. I did notice it took maybe a second longer for the oil pressure light to go out, also probably a non-issue.

 

[BobsTrail]

Ramps? You are working too hard. Just slide under there and do it as it sets. It's a little close, but OK. A sheet of cardboard on the floor and it's easy to slide under. It catches the drips or spills too.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Ramps? You are working too hard. Just slide under there and do it as it sets. It's a little close, but OK. A sheet of cardboard on the floor and it's easy to slide under. It catches the drips or spills too.

Ramps take about 20 seconds to drive up on and they make it super simple to remove the skid-plate (you can swing it down and off) which ultimately makes it super simple to change the oil. ;-)

 

[TheRoadNotTaken]

Ramps take about 20 seconds to drive up on and they make it super simple to remove the skid-plate (you can swing it down and off) which ultimately makes it super simple to change the oil. ;-)

Agree. I ended up using the ramps and no issues. Looks like he may have a lift and therefore a little more wiggle room than me (stock).


Thanks for all the replies.