Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

I think I paid around $24 for my last Walmart jug. They're also my new favorite place for car batteries. Good price, selection and free install (no core) on private label made by Johnson Controls, same people who make Interstate.

I feel guilty going in there, but Mike Rowe said that they may have turned the corner in terms of Made in USA product. Labor practices are another issue... ;)
 
I stopped by autozone and the regular price for the mobil1 snynthetic advanced fuel economy was around $35. So with the coupon, about the same as the walmart price.

That is good to know about the private label batteries at walmart from Johnson Controls. May look into those when I need a new battery.
 
Anyone ever have more oil than expected come out of the filter housing when removing? I had about 5 oz plus what stayed in the housing when I removed it yesterday. I did everything in the normal order and yes I used the plastic drain plug first. Everything seemed to go normally until this unexpected gush of oil when I unscrewed the housing.
The only difference in steps was I loosely put back in the filter housing drain plug after removing the dohicky and o-ring.
 
Anyone ever have more oil than expected come out of the filter housing when removing? I had about 5 oz plus what stayed in the housing when I removed it yesterday. I did everything in the normal order and yes I used the plastic drain plug first. Everything seemed to go normally until this unexpected gush of oil when I unscrewed the housing.
The only difference in steps was I loosely put back in the filter housing drain plug after removing the dohicky and o-ring.

Yup. All the time. Not sure why it doesn't all drain out first.
 
Wife is going to pickup a new 2014 4Runner at local dealer tomorrow. This will surely come in handy. Thanks for taking the time.

Filter housing looks very much like the one on her 2006 Avalon - 3.5l motor - 2GR-FE. Access to filter on this 4Runner requires more work, but certainly doable.

I see this one also has a perforated tube that goes down the inner center of the oil filter housing. On the '06 Avalon that tube has a spring and a saucer-shaped washer underneath. I suspect this one will as well.

Have a hunch spark plug change on this motor will be easier than the 2GR-FE.

Onward.
 
Anyone ever have more oil than expected come out of the filter housing when removing? I had about 5 oz plus what stayed in the housing when I removed it yesterday. I did everything in the normal order and yes I used the plastic drain plug first. Everything seemed to go normally until this unexpected gush of oil when I unscrewed the housing.
The only difference in steps was I loosely put back in the filter housing drain plug after removing the dohicky and o-ring.

I've only changed it once so far and haven't experience this problem...only small drips coming out of the housing after draining it using the plastic spout. One thing I do (and I'm not sure if you do also, or if it even matters), I crack the oil cap open a little to allow air to flow through the engine, and it gives me the placebo effect of oil draining out easier, lol.

Putting back the housing drain plug shouldn't really affect it too much because IIRC it's spring loaded behind there and would close once you remove the plastic draining gizmo.
 
Regarding oil in the housing and the plastic drain plug.

I've yet to change oil on a 5th Gen 4Runner, but no matter. The oil filter housing is pretty much identical to the one used on the 2GR-FE motors. I've changed oil on that motor many times.

When I open up the oil filter box, the first thing I do is throw away the plastic drain tube. I first drain the oil from the bottom engine pan and let it do that for a fair amount of time. This gives the oil filter housing time to cool down. I then remove the oil filter housing with a catch pan underneath; then tilt slightly and pour the oil from the housing into the catch pan. I've yet to see my 2GR-FE oil filter housing have more than approx. 6 oz. of oil in it when removed.

This is is less of a mess than sticking the plastic drain tube up into the bottom of the housing. In my experience, as soon as you start to insert the plastic drain tube up into the bottom of the oil filter housing, oil is on it's way down - all over your hand(s).

Just my 2 cents.
 
Regarding oil in the housing and the plastic drain plug.

I've yet to change oil on a 5th Gen 4Runner, but no matter. The oil filter housing is pretty much identical to the one used on the 2GR-FE motors. I've changed oil on that motor many times.

When I open up the oil filter box, the first thing I do is throw away the plastic drain tube. I first drain the oil from the bottom engine pan and let it do that for a fair amount of time. This gives the oil filter housing time to cool down. I then remove the oil filter housing with a catch pan underneath; then tilt slightly and pour the oil from the housing into the catch pan. I've yet to see my 2GR-FE oil filter housing have more than approx. 6 oz. of oil in it when removed.

This is is less of a mess than sticking the plastic drain tube up into the bottom of the housing. In my experience, as soon as you start to insert the plastic drain tube up into the bottom of the oil filter housing, oil is on it's way down - all over your hand(s).

Just my 2 cents.
i find that if you get a thumb on either side of the flange and press firmly upwards the sump will drain totally drama-free. not a drop spilled in the course of my last few oil changes. it's a pretty smart design, when used properly.
 
Wife is going to pickup a new 2014 4Runner at local dealer tomorrow. This will surely come in handy. Thanks for taking the time.

Filter housing looks very much like the one on her 2006 Avalon - 3.5l motor - 2GR-FE. Access to filter on this 4Runner requires more work, but certainly doable.

I see this one also has a perforated tube that goes down the inner center of the oil filter housing. On the '06 Avalon that tube has a spring and a saucer-shaped washer underneath. I suspect this one will as well.

Have a hunch spark plug change on this motor will be easier than the 2GR-FE.

Onward.

Yes the filter housing is almost identical as the Avalon, (I have a 12 Avalon too) however it is NOT the same filter.

The 4Runner's filter is slightly larger than the Avalon so the filter element is a different part number. I have to be careful, because I like to buy filters ahead of time and keep them on the shelf in my garage with the oil. The element boxes look the same and the part number is only one digit different.

I take a marker and write "Avalon" on the box when I buy them and try to place them in a different spot on the shelf, because when reaching for an oil filter I know if there is a 50/50 chance of grabbing the wrong one, I will.
 
I just did an oil change following Antmans instructions. I always wondered why the oil must be hot to drain since the viscosity is lower when the oil is cold therefore it should drain better/faster when cold. ???:noidea:
 
I just did an oil change following Antmans instructions. I always wondered why the oil must be hot to drain since the viscosity is lower when the oil is cold therefore it should drain better/faster when cold. ???:noidea:

philosoraptor-dinosaur-thinking.jpg
 
Huh...don't you have that backwards? :der:

Multi-weight oils use chemical additives that cause the oil to get thicker, (more protection), as the operating temperature increases and thinner, (less friction), as the temperature decreases.

I think you have it backwards, cheech.
 
Read this- decent explanation of what's going on...

How does engine oil get thicker as it warms up? - Yahoo Answers

Yes, according to Yahoo explanation oil thickens as the temp increases, which is what I'm saying. Our oil is at it thinnest when cold "0". One would think it would drain better when it's thinner. What is the reason to have oil hot before draining?

Don't get me wrong I have always warmed up my engines before oil change but when I think about oil getting thicker as it heats it's not clear why everyone recommends to drain when engine is hot.
 
Multi-weight oils use chemical additives that cause the oil to get thicker, (more protection), as the operating temperature increases and thinner, (less friction), as the temperature decreases.

I think you have it backwards, cheech.

Chong, you have part of it right. The viscosity stabilizers, which are the additives you're referring to, resist thinning out at higher temperatures, but they don't actually get thicker at higher temps. The kinematic viscosity still goes down the higher the temperature gets, it just doesn't go down as quickly as an oil without the viscosity stabilizers.

Here is a visual:

viscosityvstemperature400.gif
 
Yes, according to Yahoo explanation oil thickens as the temp increases, which is what I'm saying. Our oil is at it thinnest when cold "0". One would think it would drain better when it's thinner. What is the reason to have oil hot before draining?

Don't get me wrong I have always warmed up my engines before oil change but when I think about oil getting thicker as it heats it's not clear why everyone recommends to drain when engine is hot.

You need to read the entire article.
 
Chong, you have part of it right. The viscosity stabilizers, which are the additives you're referring to, resist thinning out at higher temperatures, but they don't actually get thicker at higher temps. The kinematic viscosity still goes down the higher the temperature gets, it just doesn't go down as quickly as an oil without the viscosity stabilizers.

Here is a visual:

viscosityvstemperature400.gif

Thanks for the explanation and the visual. I now understand.
 

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